Choosing an attractive tuxedo (that actually fits)

Hi guys,

I just made my account today, as I am seeking advice on a modestly priced Tuxedo. I am 20 years old and I need a tuxedo for orchestra performances (I play the trumpet) and for general black tie use. I have spent a lot of time in a cheap tux (20+ evenings a year in high school for performances, plus at least 2 other black tie occasions a year), but am looking for something better this time. I am a junior in college and just recently began performing again. I recently rented a tux for our first concert out of poor planning. Now that I have stopped growing, my parents agreed to buy me a decent tuxedo, so they don't have to pay for at least 4 weekend rentals a year.

I get to pick it out, and my price range for the jacket and pants is ~$400-500 total.

I know that their is a general disdain for notched lapels around here, but that appears to be the only option for a quality tuxedo in my price range. I cannot find a decent notched lapel that isn't in a cheapo package from amazon.

I have tried the on the Men's Wearhouse Calvin Klein Tuxedo in my size and I like it. Here's the link:
http://www.menswearhouse.com/webapp/...58_BLACK_10651

...But I thought I would ask the pros before I just got that one.

After trolling these boards it looks like you guys have some pretty good advice, I'm all ears

Thanks,

Nate

Even if the quality isn't perfect, the styling is more important...

I would suggest: http://www.josbank.com/webapp/wcs/st...nifindQueryCmd

over the one you posted... on sale for $397.50

That seems like a good alternative, but they are pretty skimpy on details. I can't even find any full pictures of it. There are two Jos A Banks Retail stores near me. I will try to get to one of them tomorrow to try it on, if I can confirm that one of them has it in my size (38R is what Men's Wearhouse called me).

How worried should I be about the quality of the clothing? Honestly, I would prefer to get a peak lapel... but the Calvin Klein one felt like it was really well put together.

Also, people around here seem to be very fond of tailoring. I have never really dabbled in that. Besides getting the pants hemmed and sleeves right, is there anything I should think about after getting the right size? I know it is a cheap piece, but I would still like to look my best.

Thanks,

Nate

I got a used YSL tuxedo from a local rental place that sold its surplus a few years ago for $40, and it's been an excellent standby ever since - didn't need tailoring for me, but even if it did the total cost would have been low. I don't know if this sort of thing would be available to you, but I just thought I'd throw my two cents in.

Originally Posted by NateJP

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That seems like a good alternative, but they are pretty skimpy on details. I can't even find any full pictures of it. There are two Jos A Banks Retail stores near me. I will try to get to one of them tomorrow to try it on, if I can confirm that one of them has it in my size (38R is what Men's Wearhouse called me).

How worried should I be about the quality of the clothing? Honestly, I would prefer to get a peak lapel... but the Calvin Klein one felt like it was really well put together.

Also, people around here seem to be very fond of tailoring. I have never really dabbled in that. Besides getting the pants hemmed and sleeves right, is there anything I should think about after getting the right size? I know it is a cheap piece, but I would still like to look my best.

The Jos A Bank will likely be on par with or superior to the Calvin Klein. As for tailoring, have the jacket waist taken in. It's a smidge more money, but the difference is dramatic.

Your only challenge will be finding grosgrain accessories to match the lapels, but I think that topic's been covered in some detail.

Originally Posted by NateJP

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Also, people around here seem to be very fond of tailoring. I have never really dabbled in that. Besides getting the pants hemmed and sleeves right, is there anything I should think about after getting the right size?
Yeah, make sure the tailor knows you'll be playing the trumpet. Show him how you hold your arms in playing position. Looking good while holding the trumpet and looking good for regular black tie usage will have to be something of a compromise, though with trumpet it's not as bad as for string players who have to wave their arms around through a large range of motion.

Originally Posted by dsmolken

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Yeah, make sure the tailor knows you'll be playing the trumpet. Show him how you hold your arms in playing position. Looking good while holding the trumpet and looking good for regular black tie usage will have to be something of a compromise, though with trumpet it's not as bad as for string players who have to wave their arms around through a large range of motion.

I can't think what a tailor could do. A high armhole would help, but that's not an after-the-fact alteration.

Originally Posted by NateJP

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How worried should I be about the quality of the clothing? Honestly, I would prefer to get a peak lapel... but the Calvin Klein one felt like it was really well put together.

Neither CK nor JAB are good quality. They are probably the best you can find brand new in your price range in a retail store. The best value would almost certainly come from a small reseller, from something like either eBay or the Buying & Selling forum here. The downside to those is that they are not guaranteed to have something that will fit you or that is styled to your liking so you would have to wait until something appropriate becomes available. Also, it requires you to be more knowledgeable about sizing, quality, etc.

This is a situation where you can pick any two of good, cheap, and fast. You want a tuxedo fast so you are left to choose between something good and something cheap. It's really unlikely that you'll find both, especially in a retail store.

At that pricepoint I would usually point to Thick as Thieves, but the tuxedo that was done up for Kent Wang was for a lack of a better word, shoddy. I think there are a few other members who have ordered one. I'd hover over the thread for a bit and see if anything good comes of it. Otherwise, you may want to look at Ralph Lauren on the B&S forum or Brook Bros.

Another option for a really cheap tux might be Syms. Even a cheap tux will look decent once you have it tailored. If I were you, I'd buy one of the cheap tuxes focus on the alterations. Good tailoring will make you look sharp.

I found a Barney's 1 button peak lapel tuxedo at a thrift shop in my size. The pants waist was taken in by the previous owner and needed to be let out a bit. The jacket chest, shoulders, arm length, etc was perfect. The tux looked like it was only worn once to a black tie wedding, the table card was still in the pocket!

B&S or Ebay is a good place to look for higher quality Tuxedos on the cheap as well. However I'd stay away from vintage ones unless you can see them in person. Some fit quite oddly.

I know I'll get slayed for this, but since you'll be sitting in the orchestra so much, you might want to opt for a vented jacket....

Originally Posted by whiteslashasian

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I know I'll get slayed for this, but since you'll be sitting in the orchestra so much, you might want to opt for a vented jacket....

I posted a question about vents or no vents for dinner jackets some time ago and there seemed to be substantial support for vented dinner jackets if one is so inclined (as a matter of fact, when I had my dinner jacket made, I asked for vents.) I think a vented jacket for musicians sounds like a very practical (and no less elegant) solution.

For your purposes, I would go for classic styling. i.e. 1 button, single breasted, peak lapel and look for something gently used by a good maker that is canvassed and of good cloth. You can find some good deals here in the Buying & Selling forum or on eBay if you're willing to wait it out a bit.

I think Brooks Brothers also has a nice SB that you can pick up for around $550 when they have their 30% off sales a few times a year.

Miles Davis had his jackets cut with really full and long arms so that when he had his horn in position, he'd have range of motion and show 1/2 inch of cuff.

Originally Posted by NateJP

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That seems like a good alternative, but they are pretty skimpy on details. I can't even find any full pictures of it. There are two Jos A Banks Retail stores near me. I will try to get to one of them tomorrow to try it on, if I can confirm that one of them has it in my size (38R is what Men's Wearhouse called me).

How worried should I be about the quality of the clothing? Honestly, I would prefer to get a peak lapel... but the Calvin Klein one felt like it was really well put together.

Also, people around here seem to be very fond of tailoring. I have never really dabbled in that. Besides getting the pants hemmed and sleeves right, is there anything I should think about after getting the right size? I know it is a cheap piece, but I would still like to look my best.

Thanks,

Nate

This is their Signature version. It will be fused construction, but you're unlikely to find anything much better in this price range on short notice. The Signature model actually uses a fairly nice all wool fabric and has grosgrain lapels (good). I've seen this one several times and it's really pretty nice for a young guy in your position.

I found a fully canvassed Hickey Freeman tuxedo on sale in my size at a Norstrom rack a couple of years ago. It sells at retail for about $1600 but was on sale for $500. However, this sort of shopping is hit-and-miss. You can occassionally find good deals, but if you're working under any kind of deadline the likelihood of finding what you're looking for is lower.

I think the JAB is a solid alternative for you and would be much superior to anything you'll find at Mens Wearhouse.

First, if you have time, I want to second Mark's suggestion about places like Off-Fifth, Last Call, etc. You can almost certainly find a great deal on a tuxedo if you have some time and are willing to devote a little effort to the hunt. If you live near NYC, this is a no-brainer.

You might also consider ebay. Normally, buying used clothes off of ebay is an awful idea. But tuxedos seem to be an exception -- they really have been "worn once." People get them for, say, a wedding, and then sell them a few years later because they have never worn them again. So used tuxedos tend to be in really excellent condition. You can very often pick up, say, a Zegna or a Hickey-Freeman for about $100. Even if it needs $200 in tailoring -- which is a lot -- you still end up with a top-quality DJ for less than the cost of a polyester one. N.B. A little too big is better than a little too small when you are having something tailored. But make sure it is approximately the right size. If you are a 42S, you can't buy a 48L on the theory that the tailor can just take away the extra cloth to make it fit.

As for styling, I'd definitely get vents as this is a "working tuxedo" and you will be sitting down on stage a lot. Note the plural "vents" not "vent." Definitely peak or shawl. I personally quite like DB DJs (since you don't have to worry about a vest or cummberbund) but they might be kind of hot if you are on stage under the lights.

Good Luck. Let us know how it turns out.