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High Armholes

post #1 of 65
10/25/09 at 9:09pm
Thread Starter 
Where exactly does the armhole become high? I checked and measured several of my jackets and I'm thinking in order for an armhole to be truly high it would have to begin where the chest panel meets the sleeve, not necessarily under the arm. Is this correct?
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post #2 of 65
10/25/09 at 9:25pm
Armhole depth is a vertical measure. Bottom of armhole to top or vice-versa. If you put your index and middle finger together and place them up into your armpit the jacket armhole should just touch your fingers. In other words, the space between the jacket armhole and your armpit should be about two fingers width. The armhole can be higher or lower depending on your tolerance for comfort and still be OK. The higher I make an armhole, the wider I make it so it doesn't constrict your movement.
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post #3 of 65
10/26/09 at 11:47am
Thread Starter 
OK, by this measurement most if not all of my coats have high armholes. What I'm referring to is the coats seem to raise when my arms are lifted above my head and the area I see pulling is right at the front of the armpit where the sleeve meets the chest. Imagine 2" to the right of the breast pocket. It seems that if the area I'm referring to isn't attached further under the arm (larger chest panel?) the jacket will still move when the arm is raised. Note the area following the horizontal line on my coat just under my pocket square: Unless that line goes further under the arm, the coat will still move. Does that make sense?
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post #4 of 65
10/26/09 at 3:00pm
One problem area can be the top/outside of the arm. On some, maybe all of my jackets I can feel resistance here when lifting my arms out. I really want to know how this is avoided in good bespoke tailoring.
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post #5 of 65
10/26/09 at 3:46pm
I'm far from an expert, but I was looking at this problem with shirts the other day and it appeared that the angle created by the difference in the amount of fabric on the outer arm and the inner arm was to blame. meaning, the less difference between the amounts of fabric, the less severe of an angle, and the less lift of the shirt (suit) body when raising one's arms. This is all assuming constant armhole size and placement.

If this doesn't make sense, I wouldn't be surprised as I'm struggling to come up w/ the right terms.

G
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post #6 of 65
10/26/09 at 6:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
Armhole depth is a vertical measure. Bottom of armhole to top or vice-versa. If you put your index and middle finger together and place them up into your armpit the jacket armhole should just touch your fingers. In other words, the space between the jacket armhole and your armpit should be about two fingers width. The armhole can be higher or lower depending on your tolerance for comfort and still be OK. The higher I make an armhole, the wider I make it so it doesn't constrict your movement.
Thanks Mr. Despos. I got the measures by email from the sleeve down, but I requested the measure of the " actual hole" Look at Canali.it to see a high armhole, the picture the model wears a vest too.
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post #7 of 65
10/26/09 at 6:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by g-double View Post
I'm far from an expert, but I was looking at this problem with shirts the other day and it appeared that the angle created by the difference in the amount of fabric on the outer arm and the inner arm was to blame. meaning, the less difference between the amounts of fabric, the less severe of an angle, and the less lift of the shirt (suit) body when raising one's arms. This is all assuming constant armhole size and placement. If this doesn't make sense, I wouldn't be surprised as I'm struggling to come up w/ the right terms. G
You're right. The length of the undersleeve affects mobility, as well as the size of the armhole. Note that a smaller armhole requires a correspondingly longer undersleeve.
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post #8 of 65
10/26/09 at 6:45pm
These are high armholes:
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post #9 of 65
10/26/09 at 7:31pm
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post #10 of 65
10/26/09 at 7:58pm
get out
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post #11 of 65
10/26/09 at 9:59pm
Thread Starter 
By Despos' calculation above both of these suits coats have high armholes. They almost cut into my armpits. However, look what happens when I lift my arms:


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post #12 of 65
10/27/09 at 11:49am
Bigbris, I'm betting you also feel downward restriction as well as the pulling up under the arms. This happens to me even on jackets with very high armholes.

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post #13 of 65
10/27/09 at 12:19pm
Good info here. It's about the details, idn't it?
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post #14 of 65
10/27/09 at 2:56pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by winston View Post
Bigbris, I'm betting you also feel downward restriction as well as the pulling up under the arms. This happens to me even on jackets with very high armholes.


I have a bit of this going on as well, though not as bad. And my armholes are just about as Despos specifies.

To one of the tailoring/patern drafting experts out there: what additional factors are at play here? I'm assuming that just having a high armhole isn't enough, that other mechanical considerations are taken with proper bespoke.
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post #15 of 65
10/27/09 at 3:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Louche View Post
I have a bit of this going on as well, though not as bad. And my armholes are just about as Despos specifies.

To one of the tailoring/patern drafting experts out there: what additional factors are at play here? I'm assuming that just having a high armhole isn't enough, that other mechanical considerations are taken with proper bespoke.

The height of the sleeve cap is important- a shorter, wider cap gives more movement than a longer, narrower cap.
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