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Official Events and PSA thread - Page 10

post #136 of 5713
Hah!


- B
post #137 of 5713
I'd love to have a suit made by Solito/Ambrosi, two of Naples' top names in bespoke clothing, but a few considerations would give me pause:
---Solito's silhouette. What you see in the picture is his default silhouette.
It is blousy and drapey and full. I'd call it sloppy drape.
It is the same silhouette which I saw on Maurizio Marinella and on a Neapolitan friend of mine who is a Solito client. You've got to like that shape going into game because that is what you'll get, particularly since you are only going to get one forward fitting before the final coat is delivered. I haven't seen a coat by Solito as fitted as pictured by Vox; Vox, was that suit made for you?
post #138 of 5713
Quote:
Originally Posted by uppercase View Post
I haven't seen a coat by Solito as fitted as pictured by Vox; Vox, was that suit made for you?

No, it was not made for me...nevertheless, it was indeed made with a clean chest for the client (judging from photographs)...but it is likely that my chest is cleaning it up even further!

For those of you thinking about this, there are few people with greater familiarity with Naples than Uppercase, so you would do well to pay attention to what he is describing.


- B
post #139 of 5713
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
For those of you thinking about this, there are few people with greater familiarity with Naples than Uppercase, so you would do well to pay attention to what he is describing.

+1
post #140 of 5713
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
No, it was not made for me...nevertheless, it was indeed made with a clean chest for the client (judging from photographs)...but it is likely that my chest is cleaning it up even further!

For those of you thinking about this, there are few people with greater familiarity with Naples than Uppercase, so you would do well to pay attention to what he is describing.


- B

Seriously, or is this sarcasm? can't tell. something tells me the latter.
post #141 of 5713
--sorry, my above post went off incomplete; here's the full post:


I'd love to have a suit made by Solito/Ambrosi, two of Naples' top names in bespoke clothing, but a few considerations would give me pause:
---Solito's silhouette. What you see in the picture is his default silhouette.
It is blousy and drapey and full. I'd call it sloppy drape.
He is wearing the same silhouette which I saw on Maurizio Marinella and also on a Neapolitan friend of mine who is a Solito client. You've got to like that shape going into game because that is what you'll get, particularly since you are only going to get one forward fitting before the final coat is delivered. I haven't seen a coat by Solito as fitted as pictured by Vox; Vox, was that suit made for you?
I also wouldn't expect a product along the lines of what Rubinacci produced for iammatt and mafoofan. Those clothes were produced after numerous fittings and iterations done in Naples. Rubinacci's silhouette is different and their level of conscientiousness and precision is much higher; Solito's work and silhouette is more regional and does not have the polish of Rubinacci.
----Solito's reliability. Solito does not produce work on time. My friend eventually left Solito because his clothes were not remotely produced on time nor were appointments kept. And this is for an Italian client who need only drive around the corner to Solito's sartoria in Naples. Is it realistic to expect delivery of a forward fitting coat in March? Allowances need to be made.

I've grown to enjoy Naples, its culture, people and traditions and would not want any artisan to get needlessly bashed. You just need to be aware of the potential pitfalls and avoid disappointments because of misplaced and unrealistic expectations, and adjust. It's best to go into this with eyes wide open, understanding what you'll likely be getting and the time frame, and to make some measured allowances beforehand.

Personally, I would go ahead and commission a suit from Solito/Ambrosi if I were in NYC just for the chance to have something made by these two Neapolitan icons. But again, I am not expecting the sun, the moon and the star.
post #142 of 5713
Quote:
Originally Posted by teddieriley View Post
Seriously, or is this sarcasm? can't tell. something tells me the latter.

Not at all sarcastic. UC is probably only among four English-speaking guys on the interwebs who can post with true familiarity about the various Neopolitan makers.


- B
post #143 of 5713
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by uppercase View Post
I've grown to enjoy Naples, its culture, people and traditions and would not want any artisan to get needlessly bashed. You just need to be aware of the potential pitfalls and avoid disappointments because of misplaced and unrealistic expectations, and adjust. It’s best to go into this with eyes wide open, understanding what you’ll likely be getting and the time frame, and to make some measured allowances beforehand.

Personally, I would go ahead and commission a suit from Solito/Ambrosi if I were in NYC just for the chance to have something made by these two Neapolitan icons. But again, I am not expecting the sun, the moon and the star.

Wisdom.

But keep in mind, this forum is used to dealing with Jantzen!

Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
Not at all sarcastic. UC is probably only among four English-speaking guys on the interwebs who can post with true familiarity about the various Neopolitan makers.

And he knows Savile Row, to boot!
post #144 of 5713
deleted for misdirected snark
post #145 of 5713
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJman View Post
deleted for misdirected snark

Redirecting it in the right direction would have been much more interesting than deletion.
post #146 of 5713
Considering Solito is teamed up with Ambrosi, perhaps this is the appropriate time to ask

Has anyone ever used Ambrosi to make their suit trousers?
post #147 of 5713
Quote:
Originally Posted by uppercase View Post
---Solito's silhouette. What you see in the picture is his default silhouette.
It is blousy and drapey and full.

This is encouraging.

Quote:
----Solito’s reliability. Solito does not produce work on time. My friend eventually left Solito because his clothes were not remotely produced on time nor were appointments kept. And this is for an Italian client who need only drive around the corner to Solito’s sartoria in Naples. Is it realistic to expect delivery of a forward fitting coat in March? Allowances need to be made.
This, not so much ...
post #148 of 5713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Ay329 View Post
Considering Solito is teamed up with Ambrosi, perhaps this is the appropriate time to ask

Has anyone ever used Ambrosi to make their suit trousers?

Yes.
post #149 of 5713
Quote:
Originally Posted by uppercase View Post
---Solito's silhouette. What you see in the picture is his default silhouette.
It is blousy and drapey and full. I'd call it sloppy drape.
He is wearing the same silhouette which I saw on Maurizio Marinella and also on a Neapolitan friend of mine who is a Solito client. You've got to like that shape going into game because that is what you'll get, particularly since you are only going to get one forward fitting before the final coat is delivered. I haven't seen a coat by Solito as fitted as pictured by Vox; Vox, was that suit made for you?

I've seen ones just as fitted from Solito, often worn by Salvatore Ambrosi. Remember, this is the younger Solito coming, so his eye could be a bit different, and I am not sure what he does. My guess is narrower, but who knows.
Quote:

I also wouldn't expect a product along the lines of what Rubinacci produced for iammatt and mafoofan. Those clothes were produced after numerous fittings and iterations done in Naples. Rubinacci's silhouette is different and their level of conscientiousness and precision is much higher; Solito's work and silhouette is more regional and does not have the polish of Rubinacci.

Truth. That said, a good client can make the difference. What you get from Rubinacci, in many ways, is a "good client" in Mariano who demands the best of the tailor.
Quote:
----Solito's reliability. Solito does not produce work on time. My friend eventually left Solito because his clothes were not remotely produced on time nor were appointments kept. And this is for an Italian client who need only drive around the corner to Solito's sartoria in Naples. Is it realistic to expect delivery of a forward fitting coat in March? Allowances need to be made.

Very true. Ambrosi is quite good, though, so maybe he is the one to take this up with. He can prod them along.

Quote:
I've grown to enjoy Naples, its culture, people and traditions and would not want any artisan to get needlessly bashed. You just need to be aware of the potential pitfalls and avoid disappointments because of misplaced and unrealistic expectations, and adjust. It's best to go into this with eyes wide open, understanding what you'll likely be getting and the time frame, and to make some measured allowances beforehand.

More good advice.

Quote:
Personally, I would go ahead and commission a suit from Solito/Ambrosi if I were in NYC just for the chance to have something made by these two Neapolitan icons. But again, I am not expecting the sun, the moon and the star.

Me too. Probably an overcoat rather than a suit, though. This only because I have the foo-disease of liking to have same things the same.
post #150 of 5713
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt View Post
Truth. That said, a good client can make the difference. What you get from Rubinacci, in many ways, is a "good client" in Mariano who demands the best of the tailor.

That is a succinct and useful observation.

If you don't have a guy like that in the room, you had better be prepared to be that guy yourself. And let's face it: that is unlikely with most guys.


- B
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