Originally Posted by uppercase
---Solito's silhouette. What you see in the picture is his default silhouette.
It is blousy and drapey and full. I'd call it sloppy drape.
He is wearing the same silhouette which I saw on Maurizio Marinella and also on a Neapolitan friend of mine who is a Solito client. You've got to like that shape going into game because that is what you'll get, particularly since you are only going to get one forward fitting before the final coat is delivered. I haven't seen a coat by Solito as fitted as pictured by Vox; Vox, was that suit made for you?
I've seen ones just as fitted from Solito, often worn by Salvatore Ambrosi. Remember, this is the younger Solito coming, so his eye could be a bit different, and I am not sure what he does. My guess is narrower, but who knows.
I also wouldn't expect a product along the lines of what Rubinacci produced for iammatt and mafoofan. Those clothes were produced after numerous fittings and iterations done in Naples. Rubinacci's silhouette is different and their level of conscientiousness and precision is much higher; Solito's work and silhouette is more regional and does not have the polish of Rubinacci.
Truth. That said, a good client can make the difference. What you get from Rubinacci, in many ways, is a "good client" in Mariano who demands the best of the tailor.
----Solito's reliability. Solito does not produce work on time. My friend eventually left Solito because his clothes were not remotely produced on time nor were appointments kept. And this is for an Italian client who need only drive around the corner to Solito's sartoria in Naples. Is it realistic to expect delivery of a forward fitting coat in March? Allowances need to be made.
Very true. Ambrosi is quite good, though, so maybe he is the one to take this up with. He can prod them along.
I've grown to enjoy Naples, its culture, people and traditions and would not want any artisan to get needlessly bashed. You just need to be aware of the potential pitfalls and avoid disappointments because of misplaced and unrealistic expectations, and adjust. It's best to go into this with eyes wide open, understanding what you'll likely be getting and the time frame, and to make some measured allowances beforehand.
More good advice.
Personally, I would go ahead and commission a suit from Solito/Ambrosi if I were in NYC just for the chance to have something made by these two Neapolitan icons. But again, I am not expecting the sun, the moon and the star.
Me too. Probably an overcoat rather than a suit, though. This only because I have the foo-disease of liking to have same things the same.