Summer suits that can be worn in the winter?

voxsartoria · Oct 18, 2009

Originally Posted by Manton

Cotton is a bad idea for this purpose. You can get heavier cotton drill that will be resonably warm in cooler weather, but the sheen of cotton always looks out of place in fall/winter. Unless it is moleskin or corduroy, but of course that is not a summer suit.

Good point. Just to be clear, I wasn't suggesting to Foofy that he consider cotton suits for his objective of getting summer business daywear that could be worn into New York winters. I was simply describing what I was trying out to support Will's and Concordia's notion of having a secondary maker for niche needs.

I'm not sure that I agree with you entirely that cotton does not work for fall. Obviously, in corduroy version, it does. Also, a more textured cotton in dark colors would also work in my opinion. In any event, it all it's versions, a cotton suit is pretty damn casual. That is the appeal, but also indicates it is not optimal for a the most formal settings.

- B

Corniche · Oct 18, 2009

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Are there any cloths appropriate for the summer (fresco, mohair, linen, etc.) that would make a summer suit appropriate for business that can also be worn during the winter? Suppose that you are willing to stomach the cold and only care about appearances.

I live in a mediterranean city similar to Napoli, and I only wear " all time " suits.

Very thin fabrics like summer silk plus wood.

I only like fat jackets on you my friend.

dopey · Oct 18, 2009

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

. . . Alas, no. If I went to New York for something, the top thing on my list would be asking Corvato to make me a No. 1 sack like in the old days. - B
I have a nice 4-ply navy cashmere that I may ask Winston to make into a sack sportcoat. 3 roll 2. Patch and flap hip and patch breast. Not sure about the buttons, though. Maybe cream MOP, Maybe cream horn. Maybe gray horn.

voxsartoria · Oct 18, 2009

Originally Posted by dopey

I have a nice 4-ply navy cashmere that I may ask Winston to make into a sack sportcoat. 3 roll 2. Patch and flap hip and patch breast. Not sure about the buttons, though. Maybe cream MOP, Maybe cream horn. Maybe gray horn.

That sounds great.

I don't have a navy jacket in cashmere anymore...my last one was a Zegna Napoli Couture in a pretty spectacular cashmere hopsack. I don't miss the jacket but I do miss the fabric.

Maybe I have room for one more solid navy odd jacket...

I think gray horn would look swell on yours.

- B

TheFoo · Oct 18, 2009

Originally Posted by radicaldog

Why don't you try Solito? It's quite close to Rubinacci, and the savings are substantial (not sure how much he charges when he visits the US, though). I can see how even a well-fitting Chan (or a well fitting suit from my unknown Italian tailor) will always be inferior to a Rubinacci. But I've seen welll-fitting Solitos looking every bit as good as Rubinaccis. What you have to consider, though, are (i) the stress of starting a new process, (ii) the OCD issue of having tailored garments from different makers hanging in your closet (maybe get a secondary closet?), and (iii) the guilt towards Rubinacci (well, I'm the sort of guy who is capable of this irrational guilt, probably because of my visceral opposition to commerce).

Well, (i) and (ii) are issues for me, but not (iii). I don't feel the need to be 'loyal' to Rubinacci; they can take care of themselves. Ultimately, though, it comes down to the fact that all of these other options are still expensive. Two or three grand isn't nothing. If I am absolutely pressed to buy a certain quantity of suits within my time frame, and I cannot afford to do so through my present tailor, then I would certainly shop around. However, I'm pretty sure that some smart decision-making wll let me get away with buying relatively few suits--so why bother changing?

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

After the facade of discussing fabrics in books that'll never get made up and no one has any real experience with, any iGent worth his salt goes to Tip Top for remnants. Tip Top is the Mecca for Clothies everywhere.

In fact, theyve got a website, no doubt, funded by the patronage of pikers:

http://www.tiptopfabrics.com/

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

Tip Top, the official outfitter of the IFL.

Are you addressing someone in particular, or just being angsty?

Originally Posted by Parker

I wondered this, too. Mafoo, can you handle having other maker's stuff hanging next to your "good stuff"? It seems you should just stick with LH and just go slower, sticking to the 2 seasons. Get two summer suits in colors that don't necessarily say "summer" and just wear them more often. Don't you already have a couple winter suits? Plus, you can still wear your sport coats to work in the winter, right?

That, sir, is the heart of the problem: I may not be able to anymore.

Originally Posted by Corniche

I only like fat jackets on you my friend.

Fat jackets?

SkinnyGoomba · Oct 18, 2009

If you dont mind me asking, why wont you be able to wear your sportcoats anymore?

Even the most formal of businesses in NJ seem to be ok with sportcoats.

TheFoo · Oct 18, 2009

Originally Posted by SkinnyGoomba

If you dont mind me asking, why wont you be able to wear your sportcoats anymore?

I'd rather not go into details, but I may have to dress for a different work environment than before. I also may not, which would render this discussion terrifically moot.

SkinnyGoomba · Oct 18, 2009

Good luck and hopefully things dont change for the worse.

TheFoo · Oct 19, 2009

Originally Posted by SkinnyGoomba

Good luck and hopefully things dont change for the worse.

Thanks. Much appreciated.

Anybody have thoughts on Harrisons Mersolair?

This blue example is 54% mohair and 46% linen. I envision it as a 4x1 double-breasted suit with patch pockets:

And an air force blue flannel from Harrisons as a winter counterpart:

The pics are from Andrew Roger's Flickr gallery.

greger · Oct 20, 2009

Another idea for not spending to much this year is to wear your sportcoat clothing to and from work, but at work have a couple of summer suits to change into and out of on those cold winter days. This means next year you can buy some winter suits.

A Y · Oct 20, 2009

Those blues look a bit too extroverted for a suit you're trying to stretch out for many wearings. Or maybe you aren't and I just assumed that.

--Andre

Dragon · Oct 20, 2009

Maybe some mohair blends, super light cashmere, silk blends, and bamboo type materials might work.

TheFoo · Oct 20, 2009

Originally Posted by greger

Another idea for not spending to much this year is to wear your sportcoat clothing to and from work, but at work have a couple of summer suits to change into and out of on those cold winter days. This means next year you can buy some winter suits.

I thought about this and realized that I could just not wear my jacket until I get to the office, which would help me get through the next year without more than a couple of summer-specific suits. I just hate walking around with a shirt and tie, but no jacket.

Originally Posted by A Y

Those blues look a bit too extroverted for a suit you're trying to stretch out for many wearings. Or maybe you aren't and I just assumed that.

Hmm. You mean too extroverted as to make it apparent I'm wearing the same suits week-to-week? I can look at more straght-up navy cloth, but I really liked how much richer and deeper these appear.

Originally Posted by ljsayat13

If you have the attitude, you have the ability to wear anything anywhere at anytime. There are men that wear skirts on this very forum...I think a summer suit in winter isn't anything radical.

True, but I fear that I'm weak on attitude.

Originally Posted by Dragon

Maybe some mohair blends, super light cashmere, silk blends, and bamboo type materials might work.

This is getting too exotic for me--remember, I only wear one shoe!

kolecho · Oct 20, 2009

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Thanks. Much appreciated.

Anybody have thoughts on Harrisons Mersolair?

This blue example is 54% mohair and 46% linen. I envision it as a 4x1 double-breasted suit with patch pockets:

And an air force blue flannel from Harrisons as a winter counterpart:

The pics are from Andrew Roger's Flickr gallery.

I have a navy Mersolair linen mohair mix as a summer odd jacket (still wearing it today in HK!). I would not get this for pants because the cloth wrinkles quite a lot, even on a jacket, though it does mostly straighten out after it is back on the hanger for a couple of nights.

I have a 13oz Minnis woolen flannel coat for winter. I am still debating if I should get some extra pants made up to wear it as a suit. I was told that navy flannel, especially navy, becomes shiny real fast when worn as trousers.

Bird's One View · Oct 20, 2009

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I thought about this and realized that I could just not wear my jacket until I get to the office, which would help me get through the next year without more than a couple of summer-specific suits. I just hate walking around with a shirt and tie, but no jacket.

You could also not put on the tie until you get to the office.

Summer suits that can be worn in the winter?

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