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Malaysian bespoke

post #1 of 131
10/13/09 at 9:05am
Thread Starter 
Just took delivery of my bespoke here in Kuala Lumpur. Cloth is a dark grey herringbone from Huddersfiled, buttons from Hwa Seng, lining is pure silk sateen. Half canvassed.
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post #2 of 131
10/13/09 at 11:14am
suit looks good and I am assuming procured at a good price. I know nothing of tailoring but the jacket looks clean front and back and the sleeve pitch and lapels look good.

Not sure why, but I find your username really disturbing
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post #3 of 131
10/13/09 at 11:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post
suit looks good and I am assuming procured at a good price. I know nothing of tailoring but the jacket looks clean front and back and the sleeve pitch and lapels look good. Not sure why, but I find your username really disturbing
Make you feel like breaking something, Ed? And I agree about the suit. Nice fit..the waist suppression is well done.
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post #4 of 131
10/13/09 at 12:33pm
Thread Starter 
Hymo is a brand of horsehair canvas from Germany. It's used in a generic sense nowadays. No, it doesn't refer to anything thin and puncturable.
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post #5 of 131
11/7/09 at 3:31am
Hi sorry to bump an oldish thread but just wondering where you did your suit and how you found the whole experience with the tailor.

Thinking of making my first foray into the bespoke world...
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post #6 of 131
11/7/09 at 3:52am
Thread Starter 
http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?ac...ost&id=1244926

We had long and heated arguments in coming up with this suit. You need to look at his house cut, then decide what needs to change, then communicate it to him. At the fitting stage, you'll need to point out ON THE BASTED SUIT what you want changed.

This suit makes for a great visual impact on others. I get all sorts of comments when I wear it.
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post #7 of 131
11/21/09 at 12:31pm
Thread Starter 
I went to Ah Loke tailor in Kuala Lumpur today to commission my second suit. The cloth is a WWChan vintage cloth that yfyf brought to our attention. 100% superfine kid mohair, 8 oz., navy woven with white resulting in a rarely seen metallic bluish gray. I included habotai silk lining of a similar tone. I'm amazed with this material: It is so porous, yet so shiny and strong. I can't think of a better lining for a summer mohair suit. I was originally thinking of getting ermazine, but who can bother with something synthetic like that when silk of this sort is available? Got some light brown horn buttons from Hwa Seng as well. (Color C) I used his previous suit for me (pictured above) as a reference for this commission. Differences include 1. Open quarters 2. A cleaner back 3. More exquisite buttonholes Baste fitting is on Tuesday.
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post #8 of 131
11/21/09 at 2:51pm
How much was your previous suit hymo? Did he offer full canvassing if you ask?
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post #9 of 131
11/21/09 at 3:27pm
Thread Starter 
He charged me RM600 (USD 180) for labour in both cases. No, he doesn't do full canvassing, not at any price.
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post #10 of 131
11/21/09 at 3:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by hymo View Post
He charged me RM600 (USD 180) for labour in both cases. No, he doesn't do full canvassing, not at any price.
Woah... that's amazing. I'm not familiar with cheap tailoring in Asia, but is it really the full 'bespoke' we hear about on say Savile Row that has dozens of measurement points, or is it a sort of 'quick and dirty' bespoke where he just alters a preexisting pattern? Is there any chance it's just MTM? How many fittings were there? Guidebooks always say that suits in that price range tend to fall apart quickly.... is your tailor tourist or local oriented? If the former, I would worry it might fall apart quickly; though in reality, it's not that big of a deal to have to stich up a $180 suit on occasion. Why do you think he's not willing to do full canvassing? Related question to anyone, can one make up for the lack of full canvassing by just having a heavier wool? Edit: oh, i see you said $180 "for labor" ...how much was the fabric?
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post #11 of 131
11/21/09 at 3:54pm
Thread Starter 
Both suits cost around $340 each with cloth, lining, buttons and labor. It's pretty bespokey. I had a measurement session followed by two fitting sessions before picking up a finished suit. It's not "MTM". He draws the pattern with chalk in hand directly on the cloth based on your measurements and his recollection of your body. He's like 64-years old, and a second-generation tailor. If you're highly talented at giving technical directions (which I doubt) you can get him to give you any silhouette you want. There is no demand for full-canvassing in Malaysia. I'm the only nuthead who goes around the country looking for it. To no avail. Though I just got a fresh lead today -- from Ah Loke himself.
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post #12 of 131
11/21/09 at 4:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by hymo View Post
Both suits cost around $340 each with cloth, lining, buttons and labor.

It's pretty bespokey. I had a measurement session followed by two fitting sessions before picking up a finished suit. It's not "MTM". He draws the pattern with chalk in hand directly on the cloth based on your measurements and his recollection of your body. He's like 64-years old, and a second-generation tailor. If you're highly talented at giving technical directions (which I doubt) you can get him to give you any silhouette you want.

There is no demand for full-canvassing in Malaysia. I'm the only nuthead who goes around the country looking for it. To no avail. Though I just got a fresh lead today -- from Ah Loke himself.
Wow, that level of tailoring is good enough for me. I'll definitely have to keep that tailor in mind if I'm in the area again. If I could get 2 suits done by him simultaneously, that would definitely offset the cost of the airplane ticket, and provide a nice vacation. Where did you choose the cloth from? Have you had any experience with other tailors in the region? Bangkok, etc?
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post #13 of 131
11/21/09 at 8:25pm
Suits looks great judging by the supplied photos. Very good deal. Wear it in good health
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post #14 of 131
11/21/09 at 8:34pm
Wow RM1,200 for the suit? That's a sweet deal. I have no idea where 'Off Campbell Road' is though. I live across the road from KLCC so I might speak to Fox tailor and see what they charge. They have some nice Loro Piana fabrics in their window. (p.s. that Lowyat forum is full of tossers)
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post #15 of 131
11/22/09 at 12:14pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Svenn View Post
Wow, that level of tailoring is good enough for me. I'll definitely have to keep that tailor in mind if I'm in the area again. If I could get 2 suits done by him simultaneously, that would definitely offset the cost of the airplane ticket, and provide a nice vacation. Where did you choose the cloth from? Have you had any experience with other tailors in the region? Bangkok, etc?

The charcoal herringbone is from a cloth merchant 10 minutes from the tailor. They're selling it for RM140/m.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Confucius View Post
Wow RM1,200 for the suit? That's a sweet deal. I have no idea where 'Off Campbell Road' is though.

I live across the road from KLCC so I might speak to Fox tailor and see what they charge. They have some nice Loro Piana fabrics in their window.

(p.s. that Lowyat forum is full of tossers)

You drive along Jln Tuanku Abdul Rahman. It's a one way street. You'll eventually see Sogo, then down a bit you'll see Pertama Complex. Turn left, and you're on Campbell Road, with Campbell Complex on your right. To the left are several car parks; pick one. Then you walk down the road, turn left into "Asian Heritage Row". Lots of small pubs and bars. At the first junction turn right. His shop is the second.
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