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MEGA PEACOAT THREAD - 61 threads merged - all Peacoat questions HERE - Page 380

post #5686 of 5715
Quote:
Originally Posted by CornToast View Post

 

I recently tailored the Bayswater peacoat from JCrew and I'm not completely satisfied. As for my body specs, I am 5'5, about 120 lb, 34S in chest, and 28 waist.

 

The first three photos were before they were tailored. I felt there was too much room even with layering, especially in the back. I also feel like the length was a bit too long but shortening it would put the last buttons too close to the end so I wasn't sure if I wanted to do it. The last two photos are after it got tailored. I had the waist brought in and slimmed the arms. Now it looks a bit too slim and looks like it flairs out at the end making it look feminine.

 

What do you guys think about the end result? How was it before the tailoring? After looking back at it now, I think I would have been better off leaving it as it was. I'm thinking of getting either another one of these and possibly leaving it as is or getting minimal alterations (tailor says the wool's too thick to do less than what was already done) or getting a sterlingwear. I'm a bit worried about that since I have quite the small stature and an "American" fit would probably be too large on me. If I do get another one of these, what alterations should I go for?

I'm about to pull the trigger on another bayswater peacoat. Can I get some opinion on whether it's better after being tailored or the original?

post #5687 of 5715
Quote:
Originally Posted by CornToast View Post

I'm about to pull the trigger on another bayswater peacoat. Can I get some opinion on whether it's better after being tailored or the original?

I think the coat looks fine. I would keep it. That's my opinion. But the only opinion that matters is what you think.
post #5688 of 5715
okay, I've been on the hunt for a peacoat for a couple of years now; I bought a pre WWII vintage peacoat last year but the fit was totally off.
Although I am usually a purist and go for the exact reproductions of military garments, I decided to change course and go for a jacket made by the Japanese Americana company Pherrows. Its their take on the 1913 (13 star button) peacoat. It is a modern fitted coat with most details intact aside from the fact that it is black instead of navy and not 100% wool (shockers!). So far I'm really happy with it; the sleeves are short but I like my jackets like that. The coat is made of a wool blend with polyester and acryl and seems to keep me warm enough for the current winter weather. One other important change compared to the original is the shape of the collar. I didn't like the combination of the huge collar and my small grape head so when I saw this coat, I was delighted to see they made it with a substantially smaller collar.

anyway, enough talk, here are the pictures


SAM_0819 by SLAB13, on Flickr


SAM_0820 by SLAB13, on Flickr


SAM_0821 by SLAB13, on Flickr


SAM_0822 by SLAB13, on Flickr
post #5689 of 5715

I've had my Sterlingwear Authentic for a month now and love it. However, after just a couple of weeks, the inside button came loose/unraveled. I planned to sew it back on until I noticed that it's not like sewing a shirt button as you don't sew through both layers of material. Fortunately, I pass by the Sterlingwear factory/retail store often enough during the workweek so I had them fix it. They also shored up the middle outside button as it was a bit loose as well. It's the most used buttons that were coming loose.

 

Now two weeks later, I'm in the same boat. The inside button is again unraveling. Is there a way to do sew jacket buttons so that they stand up a little better to use? I figure the military guys are tougher on buttons that I am.

 

 

 

Aside from the button coming loose, I couldn't be happier with the jacket. I found the navigator's wool felt a bit nicer but much preferred the dark navy color of the authentic and it's a lot warmer with the fleece liner.

post #5690 of 5715
Quote:
Originally Posted by SLAB View Post

okay, I've been on the hunt for a peacoat for a couple of years now; I bought a pre WWII vintage peacoat last year but the fit was totally off.

Looks pretty good. I'd like to see how it looks with the buttons done like normal and the collar popped a bit.
post #5691 of 5715
Just out of curiosity: has anyone removed the shoulder pads from their SW Authentic? To what success/effect?
post #5692 of 5715
Quote:
Originally Posted by CornToast View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)









I recently tailored the Bayswater peacoat from JCrew and I'm not completely satisfied. As for my body specs, I am 5'5, about 120 lb, 34S in chest, and 28 waist.

The first three photos were before they were tailored. I felt there was too much room even with layering, especially in the back. I also feel like the length was a bit too long but shortening it would put the last buttons too close to the end so I wasn't sure if I wanted to do it. The last two photos are after it got tailored. I had the waist brought in and slimmed the arms. Now it looks a bit too slim and looks like it flairs out at the end making it look feminine.

What do you guys think about the end result? How was it before the tailoring? After looking back at it now, I think I would have been better off leaving it as it was. I'm thinking of getting either another one of these and possibly leaving it as is or getting minimal alterations (tailor says the wool's too thick to do less than what was already done) or getting a sterlingwear. I'm a bit worried about that since I have quite the small stature and an "American" fit would probably be too large on me. If I do get another one of these, what alterations should I go for?

To be honest, I see very little difference before and after.
post #5693 of 5715
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peacoat View Post

Now, you are going to have to get the same answer out of the Sterlingwear customer service rep before you can make headway on your return.

Odd that the company would have erroneous information on its website. Could be they changed the material from Melton to Merino, but never updated the site.

If you had described the collar in your first post the way you described it in this more recent post ("collar folds onto itself,") I could have told you it wasn't Melton.

Good luck and let us know how the story plays out.

Can confirm via SW that Navigators and Mariners are made in merino, not "melton." They also won't honor an exchange (custom order) despite my insistence.

So instead I'll figure out a way to stiffen the collar a bit. Putting a "canvas" between the two layers like you suggested ia good idea. I'm also considering covering the back of the collar with a leather (goat, maybe calf; lamb probably too soft) like the TOJ or Bond BR peacoats. Think that would work to give the collar a bit more "pop" and hold?
post #5694 of 5715

...


Edited by Duffzman - 1/31/14 at 2:34am
post #5695 of 5715

Hello, I am interested in buying a vintage kersey peacoat from the 70's. My chest measurement is pretty exactly 39 inches (my 3 measurements were 38.75", 39", 39", and I'm wondering if I should wear a size 38L or a size 40L peacoat. I am looking for a slim fit that I can still wear a medium weight sweater under. I have read Peacoat's dating guide, and I'm not sure what size exactly would be best, because he says that the actual sizing fluctuated over the years. Also, I'm not sure if this is relevant, but note that I'm getting the peacoats in long. This shouldn't affect the chest measurements, but I thought I would mention it just in case. I'm 6"4' and weigh 160 pounds, for reference.

 

What size p2p would be recommended? I'm thinking between 20 and 21 inches, but would like someone more knowledgeable to give their input, because it would be a shame to waste money and time. Thanks in advance!

(also, Peacoat, your guide is incredible, so thanks a lot!)


Edited by sdurant12 - 2/3/14 at 9:47pm
post #5696 of 5715

I think you would be fine with either size depending on how you'd want the fit to be.  The 38 will fit a little trimmer, and the 40 will be a bit looser.  With my late 70s peacoat I sized down for a trim fit with just a shirt under it, and it fits perfect as that. 

post #5697 of 5715
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdurant12 View Post

Hello, I am interested in buying a vintage kersey peacoat from the 70's. My chest measurement is pretty exactly 39 inches (my 3 measurements were 38.75", 39", 39", and I'm wondering if I should wear a size 38L or a size 40L peacoat. I am looking for a slim fit that I can still wear a medium weight sweater under. I have read Peacoat's dating guide, and I'm not sure what size exactly would be best, because he says that the actual sizing fluctuated over the years. Also, I'm not sure if this is relevant, but note that I'm getting the peacoats in long. This shouldn't affect the chest measurements, but I thought I would mention it just in case. I'm 6"4' and weigh 160 pounds, for reference.

What size p2p would be recommended? I'm thinking between 20 and 21 inches, but would like someone more knowledgeable to give their input, because it would be a shame to waste money and time. Thanks in advance!


(also, Peacoat, your guide is incredible, so thanks a lot!)

You are a tweener, which makes it a little more difficult. But I think a 38 would give a fairly decent fit probably as good as you will get. Won't be that trim, though. Might even have room for a sweater. I think a size 40 would be a little large on you, but a sweater would fit.

A size 38 p2p should be about 20.25 to 20.75. For you I would shoot for the smaller p2p; however, trying to find a long is going to be a struggle. Whichever size you can find a long in, get it.
post #5698 of 5715
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peacoat View Post

A size 38 p2p should be about 20.25 to 20.75. For you I would shoot for the smaller p2p; however, trying to find a long is going to be a struggle. Whichever size you can find a long in, get it.

 

So I realized that when measuring I needed the tape to go over my shoulderblades, something that I hadn't paid much attention to the first time, not realizing how much it would change the measurement. My final measurement ended up being closer to 39.75. Based on your advice, which I adapted to my new measurement, I decided to buy a peacoat on ebay that measured a 40L from 1974, I think. (It has silver buttons, and the tag has a 74 so I'm pretty sure that's right).

 

It should arrive monday, and I'll be sure to post fit pictures and information to help grow the body of knowledge about fit, etc, that is in this thread. Thanks a lot for the advice.

post #5699 of 5715
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdurant12 View Post

So I realized that when measuring I needed the tape to go over my shoulderblades, something that I hadn't paid much attention to the first time, not realizing how much it would change the measurement. My final measurement ended up being closer to 39.75. Based on your advice, which I adapted to my new measurement, I decided to buy a peacoat on ebay that measured a 40L from 1974, I think. (It has silver buttons, and the tag has a 74 so I'm pretty sure that's right).

It should arrive monday, and I'll be sure to post fit pictures and information to help grow the body of knowledge about fit, etc, that is in this thread. Thanks a lot for the advice.

You were extremely lucky to find a long size in the vintage series. The 40 won't be a trim fit wearing just a shirt, but it will allow room for a sweater or a vest. If you read my guide, and know how to find the date embedded in the code, you ought to have the right year. With the pewter buttons, it sounds as if it were placed in service before the late 70s.

Good luck.
post #5700 of 5715

Any help on finding out what make this coat is would be very much appreciated. The only clue I have is that there is a small brown rectangular label on the coat's right hand side (near his pocketed hand) but my TV isn't HiDef so I can't read what it says.

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