Originally Posted by Spaghettimatt
I just received my custom order Sterlingwear Navigator in the mail in 100% wool (either Melton or Merino... I dont know?) to replace my older 80/20% classic. One of the things that I've noticed with the 100% wool is that it is very flimsy/floppy/soft and thus the collar does not stay "popped." It generally does not feel rugged.
Is this the case with the Navigators generally or have they cut this in the wrong type of wool? I know the S. Wear website advertises its 100% wool Navigators as "virgin melton wool," but when I ordered this model in the store, the SA insisted that the 100% models were "merino." Is this true? Is there no difference? Others with Navigs or 100% specs... are your collars floppy?
Melton and Merino both generally have a soft finish with a nap. Due to the "thick" nature of the weave process, they are usually windproof. There is often confusion regarding these terms, especially the term "Melton." Some say it is a blend of wool and acrylic, which is a very warm man made fabric. Merino is an all wool product that comes from the Merino sheep, originally bred in Turkey, I believe. It is a soft and warm fabric. I have four topcoats, two of a cashmere (very soft fabric) blend and two of Merino wool. It is difficult to tell the difference between the two fabrics. Both fabrics are warm and windproof. I have been wearing them to work the last several weeks with low temps in the low single digits. Stayed warm each day.
I have several Melton coats. The collars have no problem staying popped against the wind. Most, however, have shorter collars than the peacoat. The collars on the issue
peacoats, both Kersey and Melton, have no problem staying up in the wind. I also have the Sterlingwear Classic with the 80/20 blend that you had. It is a warm coat as it has the full length quilted lining. The collar stays up against the wind. With the wind coming from the front, it stays up most of the time unless the wind is really strong.
When Sterlingwear says "Melton" wool, it may be using the term generically, or it may actually mean Merino wool. I doubt the latter interpretation. When Sterlingwear says "Melton," I tend to think it means what it says, whatever "Melton" actually is.
To answer your last question, the wool may be too soft for its thickness to actually stay popped. These are, after all, fashion garments, regardless of their outward appearance and similarity to the Navy peacoat.