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MEGA PEACOAT THREAD - 61 threads merged - all Peacoat questions HERE - Page 379

post #5671 of 5778
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peacoat View Post

Difficult to tell exactly from the pictures, especially Laymanx's photo, but I would say both of them are decent fits.

Laymanx, please let us know your chest size, the stated chest size of the coat, and the exact p2p of your coat. That will add to the body of knowledge of the fit of these coats.

 

Picked my peacoat up from the tailors. Wearing my thickest flannel underneath and it's still a bit roomy. 

 

 

 

 

post #5672 of 5778
Good score. You will need that extra room for a sweater for your winters way up there. And Robert will like the upended collar.
post #5673 of 5778
Quote:
Originally Posted by bellyhungry View Post

PSA: For Toronto residents who is looking for a Billy Reid James Bond pea coat, I saw a size M at The Bay in Sherway for $599.

It is in their basement's men's section under the escalator.

Dang wish I saw this earlier... thanks for heads up
post #5674 of 5778

 

 

 

 

I recently tailored the Bayswater peacoat from JCrew and I'm not completely satisfied. As for my body specs, I am 5'5, about 120 lb, 34S in chest, and 28 waist.

 

The first three photos were before they were tailored. I felt there was too much room even with layering, especially in the back. I also feel like the length was a bit too long but shortening it would put the last buttons too close to the end so I wasn't sure if I wanted to do it. The last two photos are after it got tailored. I had the waist brought in and slimmed the arms. Now it looks a bit too slim and looks like it flairs out at the end making it look feminine.

 

What do you guys think about the end result? How was it before the tailoring? After looking back at it now, I think I would have been better off leaving it as it was. I'm thinking of getting either another one of these and possibly leaving it as is or getting minimal alterations (tailor says the wool's too thick to do less than what was already done) or getting a sterlingwear. I'm a bit worried about that since I have quite the small stature and an "American" fit would probably be too large on me. If I do get another one of these, what alterations should I go for?


Edited by CornToast - 1/21/14 at 4:16pm
post #5675 of 5778

Hi Corn Toast - it looks way better after the tailoring. Keep that and don´t think about it anymore. It´s custom fitting made to your specs now  - and it does not even come across feminine in the slightest bit. 

post #5676 of 5778

Hi everyone!

 

This is my very first post in this forum although I have been following the forum for quite a while and it is because of this thread I am rather determined to get myself a peacoat.

 

Last week I finally pulled the trigger and ordered a vintage 1960 Kersey Wool Peacoat size 36. its shoulder length is 18" and p2p is 19.5"

 

It arrived today and I am a bit uncertain about the fit. It definitely feels a bit too long, and the "arm holes" (for lack of a better word to describe it) are too big, and when I fold my arms quite a bit of materials get bunched up. It is a very nice coat though and very nice material as well, so I just want some opinion on whether or not it's worth keeping. I am currently trying to find out as well how much will it cost to alter the coat, simple shortening and maybe altering the arms as well, but considering if it's worth it altering or just rather return the coat and back to ground zero in search of the perfect peacoat! Attached below are a few pictures of the coat and the fit! Sorry for the poor lighting and quality of the pics.

 

Oh and to the member Peacoat, I do have to say that your articles on peacoat dating and fitting on the other forum is superb! I am quite positive basing on the information that you gave on you articles that this coat that I have is a real 1960 kersey wool peacoat (makes me want to part with it even less!), although I have attached a picture of the tag as well, so if anyone has any opinion it would be very much appreciated

 

AppleMark

 

 

 

AppleMark

 

 

!AppleMark

post #5677 of 5778
It is a 1969 Dale Fashions peacoat. Dale Fashions was a very good contractor for the Navy that made a quality peacoat. This one ought to last another 45 years if you protect it from moth damage. Hard to tell from the pictures, but the body length may be a little long. The hem of the coat should hit you just below the buttocks.
post #5678 of 5778
I just received my custom order Sterlingwear Navigator in the mail in 100% wool (either Melton or Merino... I dont know?) to replace my older 80/20% classic. One of the things that I've noticed with the 100% wool is that it is very flimsy/floppy/soft and thus the collar does not stay "popped." It generally does not feel rugged.

Is this the case with the Navigators generally or have they cut this in the wrong type of wool? I know the S. Wear website advertises its 100% wool Navigators as "virgin melton wool," but when I ordered this model in the store, the SA insisted that the 100% models were "merino." Is this true? Is there no difference? Others with Navigs or 100% specs... are your collars floppy?
post #5679 of 5778
Hi there,

Thank you so much for the reply! It is definitely too long and will be taking it around the various tailors in my town to see how much it'll cost to alter the coat. Although their measurements for a size 36R is spot on in therms of the p2p, shoulder length and sleeves length.

I did realise when I first got the coat that it is a very well constructed coat with an amazing quality in terms of its wool. Definitely will try to take care of it as best as I can if I can get it altered (:

Again thanks so much for your guides which really helped me to choose the coat that I got! happy.gif
post #5680 of 5778
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaghettimatt View Post

I just received my custom order Sterlingwear Navigator in the mail in 100% wool (either Melton or Merino... I dont know?) to replace my older 80/20% classic. One of the things that I've noticed with the 100% wool is that it is very flimsy/floppy/soft and thus the collar does not stay "popped." It generally does not feel rugged.

Is this the case with the Navigators generally or have they cut this in the wrong type of wool? I know the S. Wear website advertises its 100% wool Navigators as "virgin melton wool," but when I ordered this model in the store, the SA insisted that the 100% models were "merino." Is this true? Is there no difference? Others with Navigs or 100% specs... are your collars floppy?

Melton and Merino both generally have a soft finish with a nap. Due to the "thick" nature of the weave process, they are usually windproof. There is often confusion regarding these terms, especially the term "Melton." Some say it is a blend of wool and acrylic, which is a very warm man made fabric. Merino is an all wool product that comes from the Merino sheep, originally bred in Turkey, I believe. It is a soft and warm fabric. I have four topcoats, two of a cashmere (very soft fabric) blend and two of Merino wool. It is difficult to tell the difference between the two fabrics. Both fabrics are warm and windproof. I have been wearing them to work the last several weeks with low temps in the low single digits. Stayed warm each day.

I have several Melton coats. The collars have no problem staying popped against the wind. Most, however, have shorter collars than the peacoat. The collars on the issue peacoats, both Kersey and Melton, have no problem staying up in the wind. I also have the Sterlingwear Classic with the 80/20 blend that you had. It is a warm coat as it has the full length quilted lining. The collar stays up against the wind. With the wind coming from the front, it stays up most of the time unless the wind is really strong.

When Sterlingwear says "Melton" wool, it may be using the term generically, or it may actually mean Merino wool. I doubt the latter interpretation. When Sterlingwear says "Melton," I tend to think it means what it says, whatever "Melton" actually is.

To answer your last question, the wool may be too soft for its thickness to actually stay popped. These are, after all, fashion garments, regardless of their outward appearance and similarity to the Navy peacoat.
post #5681 of 5778
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peacoat View Post

Melton and Merino both generally have a soft finish with a nap. Due to the "thick" nature of the weave process, they are usually windproof. There is often confusion regarding these terms, especially the term "Melton." Some say it is a blend of wool and acrylic, which is a very warm man made fabric. Merino is an all wool product that comes from the Merino sheep, originally bred in Turkey, I believe. It is a soft and warm fabric. I have four topcoats, two of a cashmere (very soft fabric) blend and two of Merino wool. It is difficult to tell the difference between the two fabrics. Both fabrics are warm and windproof. I have been wearing them to work the last several weeks with low temps in the low single digits. Stayed warm each day.

I have several Melton coats. The collars have no problem staying popped against the wind. Most, however, have shorter collars than the peacoat. The collars on the issue peacoats, both Kersey and Melton, have no problem staying up in the wind. I also have the Sterlingwear Classic with the 80/20 blend that you had. It is a warm coat as it has the full length quilted lining. The collar stays up against the wind. With the wind coming from the front, it stays up most of the time unless the wind is really strong.

When Sterlingwear says "Melton" wool, it may be using the term generically, or it may actually mean Merino wool. I doubt the latter interpretation. When Sterlingwear says "Melton," I tend to think it means what it says, whatever "Melton" actually is.

To answer your last question, the wool may be too soft for its thickness to actually stay popped. These are, after all, fashion garments, regardless of their outward appearance and similarity to the Navy peacoat.

Thanks for the very detailed answer. I suppose the gist of my question was whether they had made the custom Navigator for me in the wrong wool (a merino) that is softer as opposed to the wool most are made in (a "melton" or whatever) and whether others who owned 24oz 100% wool Sterlingwears had the same experience as me.

Any advice for stiffening a collar? I figure the options are starch or sew a piece of leather onto like the Billy Reid or TOJ coat...

Edit: The more I look at the collar on this one and compare to other peacoats (whether 100% or 80/20%) the more I think it might be a manufacturing mess-up. I really don't think Sterlingwear collars are meant to be this soft.
Edited by Spaghettimatt - 1/25/14 at 11:00am
post #5682 of 5778
Maybe my answer was a bit oblique. If Sterlingear says your coat is Melton, it is Melton--whatever they mean by the term, "Melton." I don't think it is Merino. So, the chances are slim Sterlingwear made a mistake and made your peacoat of Merino. Do they even advertise any coats made of Merino on their website? The salesperson you spoke with may have been misinformed.

I just compared my Sterlingwear Classic (80/20 blend) to one of my current issue peacoats (100% Melton). The Classic is a bit nappier than the issue coat, but the stiffness of the two collars is about the same. Neither has a problem staying up.

So, compare your Classic to the Navigator and see how the two collars compare in stiffness. Also compare the wool shells and see if there are any differences in the material. You will probably need to A & B them to see if there is a difference.

A tailor could give you viable ideas as to stiffening the collar. I think it should be fairly straightforward. Find a piece of stiff material and place it between the two pieces of wool shell that constitute the collar. Place it below the bend of the collar to give it strength when popped.

Good luck, and let us know what you find out.

Edit Note: I just saw your edited note about the softness of the collar. My advice is to call Sterlingwear and let them know what you are thinking. I imagine the customer service rep will be able to answer your questions.
post #5683 of 5778
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peacoat View Post

Maybe my answer was a bit oblique. If Sterlingear says your coat is Melton, it is Melton--whatever they mean by the term, "Melton." I don't think it is Merino. So, the chances are slim Sterlingwear made a mistake and made your peacoat of Merino. Do they even advertise any coats made of Merino on their website? The salesperson you spoke with may have been misinformed.

I just compared my Sterlingwear Classic (80/20 blend) to one of my current issue peacoats (100% Melton). The Classic is a bit nappier than the issue coat, but the stiffness of the two collars is about the same. Neither has a problem staying up.

So, compare your Classic to the Navigator and see how the two collars compare in stiffness. Also compare the wool shells and see if there are any differences in the material. You will probably need to A & B them to see if there is a difference.

A tailor could give you viable ideas as to stiffening the collar. I think it should be fairly straightforward. Find a piece of stiff material and place it between the two pieces of wool shell that constitute the collar. Place it below the bend of the collar to give it strength when popped.

Good luck, and let us know what you find out.

Okay. I just called two Sterlingwear retail stores (one of which is where I had ordered my coat) and asked about the 100% wool issue. Both told me they make their 100% wool peacoat offerings (Navigator) in MERINO and they use the 100% MELTON for coats they give to the USN. I was told the 80/20% blends were melton. I was told a 100% melton coat will cost $400 (guessing this is the mil-spec or whatever).

This is a direct contradiction to what the Sterlingwear website says ("we only use melton wool"). I'm super annoyed right now at the poor customer service and lack of consistency within the company and what their offerings supposedly are. I'm also annoyed that I asked for 100% melton when I ordered it and clearly got 100% merino. Now i'm going to have to wrestle an exchange out of them for a custom order.

Comparing the Classic to the Nav - the difference is clear. The Nav is way flimsier (collar folds onto itself when popped) and softer.
post #5684 of 5778
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaghettimatt View Post

Okay. I just called two Sterlingwear retail stores (one of which is where I had ordered my coat) and asked about the 100% wool issue. Both told me they make their 100% wool peacoat offerings (Navigator) in MERINO and they use the 100% MELTON for coats they give to the USN. I was told the 80/20% blends were melton. I was told a 100% melton coat will cost $400 (guessing this is the mil-spec or whatever).

This is a direct contradiction to what the Sterlingwear website says ("we only use melton wool"). I'm super annoyed right now at the poor customer service and lack of consistency within the company and what their offerings supposedly are. I'm also annoyed that I asked for 100% melton when I ordered it and clearly got 100% merino. Now i'm going to have to wrestle an exchange out of them for a custom order.

Comparing the Classic to the Nav - the difference is clear. The Nav is way flimsier (collar folds onto itself when popped) and softer.


Now, you are going to have to get the same answer out of the Sterlingwear customer service rep before you can make headway on your return.

Odd that the company would have erroneous information on its website. Could be they changed the material from Melton to Merino, but never updated the site.

If you had described the collar in your first post the way you described it in this more recent post ("collar folds onto itself,") I could have told you it wasn't Melton.

Good luck and let us know how the story plays out.
post #5685 of 5778
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peacoat View Post

Now, you are going to have to get the same answer out of the Sterlingwear customer service rep before you can make headway on your return.

Odd that the company would have erroneous information on its website. Could be they changed the material from Melton to Merino, but never updated the site.

If you had described the collar in your first post the way you described it in this more recent post ("collar folds onto itself,") I could have told you it wasn't Melton.

Good luck and let us know how the story plays out.

Will do, thanks for your help. I assume that they have replaced the 24oz 100% melton with a 24oz 100% merino for their "finer" civilian offerings and that the 24oz melton is still available in the factory. If that is true, it is extremely annoying that they have not clarified that and I'm going to return the custom one and have them make me a proper peacoat.
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