or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Streetwear and Denim › MEGA PEACOAT THREAD - 61 threads merged - all Peacoat questions HERE
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

MEGA PEACOAT THREAD - 61 threads merged - all Peacoat questions HERE - Page 350

post #5236 of 5744
Quote:
Originally Posted by IronRinn View Post

I'll let someone more knowledgeable advise you on the rest of your questions but as far as VT and measurements go, I'll say this: I would not bother trying to get them to measure a coat. Read Peacoat's guide, pick the size that should fit your measurements and then make sure the coat you buy is of the year you desire and has the desired size marked on the original label. 99.99% of the time the measurements will be on the money. You may end up like me and get, say, a size 40 that measured like a 42, but it seemed to be to be the exception rather than the rule. Do not go by VT's measurements. Do not go by their sizing. Look at the size on the label. No label? Pass on it.

I think IronRinn's advice is pretty good when dealing with VT. I would, however, send them the instructions in my guide on measuring the p2p and see what they can do.
post #5237 of 5744

I'm looking at a tagged 36R from the 1958-1965 era (US NAVY style tag). The seller's reported measurements are:

P2P: 19.75"

Sleeve (shoulder seam to end of cuff): 25.25"

Shoulder seam to shoulder seam: 16.25"

 

How normal are these? 19.75 * 2 = 39.5 - 2 = 37.5" (the .75 seemed like a lot to ignore as per Peacoat's sizing guide), which sounds good for my 36" chest measurement. My question is, will this 36R leave enough room for layering?

Also, that shoulder to shoulder measurement seems suspect, and I'm tempted to write it off as incorrect measurement. Professional opinions? 

I'm considering buying, as the price is right.

post #5238 of 5744
Quote:
Originally Posted by evanmayer1 View Post

I'm looking at a tagged 36R from the 1958-1965 era (US NAVY style tag). The seller's reported measurements are:
P2P: 19.75"
Sleeve (shoulder seam to end of cuff): 25.25"
Shoulder seam to shoulder seam: 16.25"

How normal are these? 19.75 * 2 = 39.5 - 2 = 37.5" (the .75 seemed like a lot to ignore as per Peacoat's sizing guide), which sounds good for my 36" chest measurement. My question is, will this 36R leave enough room for layering?
Also, that shoulder to shoulder measurement seems suspect, and I'm tempted to write it off as incorrect measurement. Professional opinions? 
I'm considering buying, as the price is right.

If the seller measured properly, it will fit like a roomy size 36. But one thing I have determined in checking the p2p in the smaller sizes--34 and 36--the p2p is a little larger (maybe .25 to .50) than in the larger sizes--38 and up. Especially 40 and up. I have no idea the reason for the anomaly. So, this coat may be dead on proper p2p measurement for a size 36.

If you haven't done so, you might copy my instructions for measuring the p2p and send them to the seller to make sure the two of you are on the same sheet of music.

Remember this: Always discount the fraction. For a 19.75" you would multiply the 19 x 2 = 38 and subtract 2 from 38 to give a size 36. If your chest measures 36" then the coat will fit you in the chest, with room for layering.

The fraction may be used to determine if it is a roomy size 36, or a little tighter fit.

For a trim fit coat, without room for layering, you would go down one size. In your case a size 34. They relatively are hard to find.

I am in California right now, with my peacoats 2,000+ miles away, so I can't check measurements for you, but the sleeve measurement does sound about right. My size 42 peacoats are about 26.5" with my size 40 coming in at about 26".

If the price is right, buy it. If it is too big, you will have an accurate starting point if you want one that is a bit more fitted. You could always wear this one with a sweater when temps are below freezing, and a size 34 from freezing to the upper 40s.

Good luck. PC.
post #5239 of 5744
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peacoat View Post


If the seller measured properly, it will fit like a roomy size 36. But one thing I have determined in checking the p2p in the smaller sizes--34 and 36--the p2p is a little larger (maybe .25 to .50) than in the larger sizes--38 and up. Especially 40 and up. I have no idea the reason for the anomaly. So, this coat may be dead on proper p2p measurement for a size 36.

If you haven't done so, you might copy my instructions for measuring the p2p and send them to the seller to make sure the two of you are on the same sheet of music.

Remember this: Always discount the fraction. For a 19.75" you would multiply the 19 x 2 = 38 and subtract 2 from 38 to give a size 36. If your chest measures 36" then the coat will fit you in the chest, with room for layering.

The fraction may be used to determine if it is a roomy size 36, or a little tighter fit.

For a trim fit coat, without room for layering, you would go down one size. In your case a size 34. They relatively are hard to find.

I am in California right now, with my peacoats 2,000+ miles away, so I can't check measurements for you, but the sleeve measurement does sound about right. My size 42 peacoats are about 26.5" with my size 40 coming in at about 26".

If the price is right, buy it. If it is too big, you will have an accurate starting point if you want one that is a bit more fitted. You could always wear this one with a sweater when temps are below freezing, and a size 34 from freezing to the upper 40s.

Good luck. PC.

Thanks, Peacoat, for the amazingly detailed reply. I copied your p2p instructions into my request for measurements. I am indeed looking for a coat I can layer with, so it sounds perfect.

post #5240 of 5744

Greetings. 1st post.

 

Even though it's beach weather, I'm thinking ahead about getting a decent wool winter coat in the fall. I'm doing my homework now, and just finished reading this entire thread (yes, all 5,239 posts) as well as Peacoat's very helpful peacoat sizing guide. And the conclusion I've come to is that it's going to be very difficult for me to find a coat that fits my tall, skinny frame well. I am 6' 4", 165 pounds, and have a 37" chest measurement (properly measured per Peacoat's instructions), 33" waist, and 36" sleeve length.  (So I'm used to having limited options.)

 

From everything I've read here, no vintage peacoat will fit me. I see the following as my best options for a wool coat this winter:

  • Sterlingwear Mil-Spec in a 36XL.
  • J-Crew Bayswater Peacoat in Medium-Tall  -- currently out of stock online
  • J-Crew University Coat in slim fit, Medium-Tall -- currently out of stock online

 

But then sometime around a year ago, someone on this thread posted about a conversation they had with Sterlingwear customer service about a then-new MTM program that they were introducing. For a very reasonable upcharge, Sterlingwear would build a custom coat based on your measurements and fabric choice. This sounded like an intriguing possibility, but I never saw any follow-up discussion about it in the forum.

 

So here are my questions:

  1. Has anyone actually tried Sterlingwear's MTM option, and if so, what did you think of the experience and the results? What measurements did you provide?
  2. Peacoat, based on my measurements above, does the 36XL seem to be the best sizing of Mil-Spec for me to try? And really is it even worth trying -- what are the odds this coat would fit me? (I live in Canada, so getting a coat shipped and returned isn't trivial.)
  3. Does anyone know when J-Crew typically starts re-stocking their peacoats and university coats for the fall/winter? August? September?

 

Thanks.

post #5241 of 5744
You might call Sterlingwear and see what they say about the sleeve length on the XL. They have a pretty good customer service department.

Our member ClarinetPlayer purchased a MilSpec coat about a year or so ago, and was quite pleased with it. If you have questions, I am sure he would be happy to answer them. He mostly hangs out in another part of forum, so you will want to send him a PM.
post #5242 of 5744

Hi,I have a question on fitting -

 

I just bought a Burberry Military Wool Peacoat in size M. I am usually a EU48/50 (more towards the 50/Large) side. This peacoat is a longer peacoat that falls probably 2 inches or so above my knee. 

 

When I wear the peacoat, it is pretty fitted on my shoulders. What bothers me more is that the sleeves are pretty incredibly tight. I can wear probably a J.Crew cashmere sweater under the peacoat and that'll pretty much be it. I MAY be able to squeeze a sweater + a thin cardigan but the sleeves will be rock hard should I do that.

 

The shoulders are tight but they look ok. I do not look like a rigid stick but I feel a bit rigid. When I raise my arms in front of me, the sleeves feel tight but the shoulders don't shift around too much/they stay in place.

 

I fear going one size up might make the coat look too big.. should I just live with the tighter fit? Is there a way to get the sleeves on a wool coat loosened..? 

 

Thanks!

post #5243 of 5744
Quote:
Originally Posted by dankim726 View Post

Hi,I have a question on fitting -

I just bought a Burberry Military Wool Peacoat in size M. I am usually a EU48/50 (more towards the 50/Large) side. This peacoat is a longer peacoat that falls probably 2 inches or so above my knee. 

When I wear the peacoat, it is pretty fitted on my shoulders. What bothers me more is that the sleeves are pretty incredibly tight. I can wear probably a J.Crew cashmere sweater under the peacoat and that'll pretty much be it. I MAY be able to squeeze a sweater + a thin cardigan but the sleeves will be rock hard should I do that.

The shoulders are tight but they look ok. I do not look like a rigid stick but I feel a bit rigid. When I raise my arms in front of me, the sleeves feel tight but the shoulders don't shift around too much/they stay in place.

I fear going one size up might make the coat look too big.. should I just live with the tighter fit? Is there a way to get the sleeves on a wool coat loosened..? 

Thanks!

I know one thing, and that is that fabric cannot be added where there is none, and the sleeve seam seems like a place where there would be no extra fabric. I'd say try on a size larger if possible. Doesn't hurt to try, unless shipping is involved.
post #5244 of 5744

Thanks for the prompt reply - 

 

Yea, unfortunately shipping would be an issue and I do not think the L is in stock. I had the understanding that "military pea coats" were meant to have slimmer sleeves... I was just shocked that having one sweater of medium thickness under it made it that much tighter (i had to actually pull a bit on the sweater from the sleeve end to get it through a bit more).

 

That being said, I personally think it looks okay.. but I may have an amateur's eye for these things. When I look at the sleeves of the peacoat when worn, there is no "wrinkling" of the fabric but it looks straight as in the sleeves are so tight they only wrinkle by the elbows (kinda makes my arms look weird and it LOOKS like its tight.. not sure if that is acceptable).

post #5245 of 5744

I did contact Sterlingwear last week with my questions. Here's what I was told, in case the info is helpful to others:

  • The Mil Spec coat is available in all of the same lengths as the civilian coats (S, R, L, and XL).
  • In comparison to the Authentic, the Mil Spec coat has armholes that are raised a little bit higher, "to keep our service men and women at attention." So it’s a little tighter around the arm hole.
  • The Mil Spec coat is covered by the same return policy as all of Sterlingwear's civilian coats, so there's no risk in ordering one (or 2) to try the size.

 

Regarding the MTM option, here's what I was told (verbatim):

The Made to Order Pea Coats or what we call custom coats are only available in our retail stores. We do not alter a pattern – what we do is add length or subtract length to a pea coat, change the lining color, change the outer shell, change the buttons, and/or add a hood. We do not alter or tailor the pea coat design, unfortunately. For example, you could have a Men’s Authentic made in Cashmere with a colored lining and up to four inches added to the length of the jacket, but we would not change the pattern. So it would just be like adding extra fabric to the jacket itself.

 

Unfortunately, this option is only available in our retail stores. It is not available for online orders.

 

Depending on the fabric you choose, the price varies. For a standard 80/20 blend wool or a standard wool or fabric the jacket original comes in, the upcharge is only $20.00. Cashmere, 100% wool and other fine fabrics vary in terms of price.

 

 

So MTM is not an option for me due to geography, but it might be interesting to folks who can get to a Sterlingwear retail store.

 

Finally, I was able to actually find a store here in Vancouver that sells Navigator peacoats (and stocks them during the summer!). They only stock R lengths, but I was able to try on a few sizes to see which fit best around the shoulders and chest. I found the 36 to be comfortable with lots of freedom of movement around the arms with a light sweater on. The 34 was pretty snug around the shoulders with a sweater on, but not uncomfortable or binding... just a bit more restrictive. The 34 seemed more fitted through the waist than the 36, which looked a little loose at the mid-section. And of course they all looked silly because the sleeves were 4-5 inches too short. Not to mention it was pushing 30 deg Celsius and everyone was in shorts and flip flops while I sweated in my peacoats.

post #5246 of 5744
Quote:
Originally Posted by dankim726 View Post

Thanks for the prompt reply - 

Yea, unfortunately shipping would be an issue and I do not think the L is in stock. I had the understanding that "military pea coats" were meant to have slimmer sleeves... I was just shocked that having one sweater of medium thickness under it made it that much tighter (i had to actually pull a bit on the sweater from the sleeve end to get it through a bit more).

That being said, I personally think it looks okay.. but I may have an amateur's eye for these things. When I look at the sleeves of the peacoat when worn, there is no "wrinkling" of the fabric but it looks straight as in the sleeves are so tight they only wrinkle by the elbows (kinda makes my arms look weird and it LOOKS like its tight.. not sure if that is acceptable).

Only way to be sure is to post a picture, but there are plenty of "acceptable" (used highly loosely) fits in this thread, so you can compare and make your own call. Ultimately, it's up to you.
post #5247 of 5744

Hi, has anyone dealt with vintagetrends at all? They have some nice ex navy peacoats on their site, but for a decent quality one they are pushing $200. Are they worth that amount? Or should I pay extra and get a new j crew or something along the lines? I'd like a slim fit.

post #5248 of 5744
Quote:
Originally Posted by dankim726 View Post

Hi,I have a question on fitting -

 

I just bought a Burberry Military Wool Peacoat in size M. I am usually a EU48/50 (more towards the 50/Large) side. This peacoat is a longer peacoat that falls probably 2 inches or so above my knee. 

 

When I wear the peacoat, it is pretty fitted on my shoulders. What bothers me more is that the sleeves are pretty incredibly tight. I can wear probably a J.Crew cashmere sweater under the peacoat and that'll pretty much be it. I MAY be able to squeeze a sweater + a thin cardigan but the sleeves will be rock hard should I do that.

 

The shoulders are tight but they look ok. I do not look like a rigid stick but I feel a bit rigid. When I raise my arms in front of me, the sleeves feel tight but the shoulders don't shift around too much/they stay in place.

 

I fear going one size up might make the coat look too big.. should I just live with the tighter fit? Is there a way to get the sleeves on a wool coat loosened..? 

 

Thanks!

Here are some pics, would definitely appreciate some input as I can end up returning. The peacoat is long (it is a size M, but I think that is just the type it is as a military peacoat). Fits very snug. I am wearing only a t-shirt under it. Thanks!

 

 

post #5249 of 5744
This looks like a very slim miltary-style peacoat all around. When buttoned, see how the lapels don't lie flat? And like you said, the arms are quite slim. Whether it's too slim is up to you and how you want to wear it (layering vs. no layering).

Edit: You could probably get away with a larger size, although it might be even longer. The chest might be roomier, the sleeves might be fuller, and the cuffs might come down a bit.
Edited by evanmayer1 - 7/17/13 at 3:55pm
post #5250 of 5744

Thanks Evan!

 

Really appreciate the input. Yea.. I do not know if I should just keep it and afford for it to be slimmer (its not too skin tight but I do realize what you mean with the lapels when buttoned up and how they bend/stick out because the tension on the sides since the coat is a bit too slim for my chest/shoulder).

 

Any additional input would be most appreciated!

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Streetwear and Denim
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Streetwear and Denim › MEGA PEACOAT THREAD - 61 threads merged - all Peacoat questions HERE