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MEGA PEACOAT THREAD - 61 threads merged - all Peacoat questions HERE - Page 312

post #4666 of 5754
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7_rocket View Post

Fack that. We can switch. It's arleady about 4C here.
Anyone reading this thread. I have a 34R authentic sterlingwear peacoat in black. I'd like to get a 34R in gray in model authentic as well. If you have, let me know

Please post the p2p and your chest size. Also please indicate how the coat fits, such as closely fitted with no room for a sweater, or there is room for a sweater. This will help others with fit down the line.
post #4667 of 5754
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peacoat View Post

I checked 4 or 5 of my pea coats and only found one that had the button. It is the standard 1 1/4" fouled anchor button.

Both of my coats have or had a button there. They are both Pembroke made.

The Melton wool one that I am selling on ebay (and I think it is a 1973) is missing the button but the threads are still hanging out.
The Kersey one (think it is a 1970...it says 70 on the label in the same place the other one says 73) has a black button that is a little bit smaller than the anchor buttons and doesn't have any extra detailing, just a raised ring around the edge.
post #4668 of 5754
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peacoat View Post


What brand and model did you get?

It's a vintage US Navy peacoat, in excellent condition, still have the size tag in the collar in perfect shape, two buttons a little with loose is the only issue it have. 

Quote:
Originally Posted by stylexchangemtl View Post


How tall are you? I wear longer coats because im 6"2, but this one looks fairly short

I don't know in inches, but I'm 1,83 cm and weight 77 kg

post #4669 of 5754
Quote:
Originally Posted by alviny View Post

hi everyone! Have been lurking around for sometime, and after reading all the informative posts here I'm looking to get a vintage peacoat of my own.

What do you guys think of the following from VT? I'm 5'09 with a 39' chest, I assuming a 38R would give me a snug fit.

I've heard of Pembroke Inc from the thread, but any info on Trenton Sportswear? Other wise both jackets seem to be similar (both Kersey Wool), condition and size-wise. The shorter sleeve wouldn't make so much of a difference, assuming there's length to be let out.

Comments apprecated!

I don't have a Trenton Sportswear, but it does have to meet the Navy specifications, so I wouldn't worry about it. It will be well made with quality materials.

One thing you ought to do is try and gets an actual p2p from VT. Unfortunately, they think they know more than you do, so they may say something like, "Well the actual chest size is posted with the coat." That isn't helpful. You want to know what the p2p is before they round up, round down, just use the stated tag size or guess at the measurement.

I used to advise prospective buyers to go by the stated tag size on the vintage pea coats, as all coats I had seen were consistent with the tag size. Relying on this advice, one of my English friends got burned by a coat whose p2p was almost 1" larger than the tag indicated. As the p2p is only 1/2 of the measurement, the coat was almost 2" larger than the tag size indicated. He had shipping costs both ways across the pond to eat. I really felt bad about that. I though that was just an anomaly with that one coat, and wasn't concerned about future purchases. Then it happened to someone else. Fortunately, the shipping was in the US, so it wasn't a major cost problem. Because of those two incidents, I now stress the p2p. I know a lot of you think I am pedantic on the subject of p2p, but I have seen what happens when one relies only on the stated chest size. Also, when the coat isn't by a known manufacturer, we don't know how they fit their coats.

We all need to rely on the same objective language so errors are reduced. When one seller is using a term such as "measured chest size," we really aren't sure what that means. The seller may mean one thing and we think he means something else.

Another thing you ought to do is to ask Gary, or whoever is doing the pea coats these days, to hold the coat at an angle up to a strong light source, such as a daytime window, and check for damage. Each panel should be checked individually. This method will show moth damage that isn't observable any other way. They will probably do this for you.

Assuming these coats have a p2p consistent with the stated chest size, I think you will have a fit that allows a normal sweater to be worn underneath. The p2p will probably be about 20.25".

Quote:
Originally Posted by cjmorris21 View Post

I got my Billy Reid peacoat in the mail yesterday. One of the chest pockets had a hole in the lining.

Considering the price of those coats, that shouldn't happen. The pockets should be substantial. Send it back as ask for them to pay shipping.
post #4670 of 5754
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlloscos View Post

It's a vintage US Navy peacoat, in excellent condition, still have the size tag in the collar in perfect shape, two buttons a little with loose is the only issue it have. 

If it has a white tag in the collar, it is probably a current issue coat, and not vintage, but they are nice coats as well. If you can post a picture, I can tell you.
post #4671 of 5754
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peacoat View Post


I don't have a Trenton Sportswear, but it does have to meet the Navy specifications, so I wouldn't worry about it. It will be well made with quality materials.
One thing you ought to do is try and gets an actual p2p from VT. Unfortunately, they think they know more than you do, so they may say something like, "Well the actual chest size is posted with the coat." That isn't helpful. You want to know what the p2p is before they round up, round down, just use the stated tag size or guess at the measurement.
I used to advise prospective buyers to go by the stated tag size on the vintage pea coats, as all coats I had seen were consistent with the tag size. Relying on this advice, one of my English friends got burned by a coat whose p2p was almost 1" larger than the tag indicated. As the p2p is only 1/2 of the measurement, the coat was almost 2" larger than the tag size indicated. He had shipping costs both ways across the pond to eat. I really felt bad about that. I though that was just an anomaly with that one coat, and wasn't concerned about future purchases. Then it happened to someone else. Fortunately, the shipping was in the US, so it wasn't a major cost problem. Because of those two incidents, I now stress the p2p. I know a lot of you think I am pedantic on the subject of p2p, but I have seen what happens when one relies only on the stated chest size. Also, when the coat isn't by a known manufacturer, we don't know how they fit their coats.
We all need to rely on the same objective language so errors are reduced. When one seller is using a term such as "measured chest size," we really aren't sure what that means. The seller may mean one thing and we think he means something else.
Another thing you ought to do is to ask Gary, or whoever is doing the pea coats these days, to hold the coat at an angle up to a strong light source, such as a daytime window, and check for damage. Each panel should be checked individually. This method will show moth damage that isn't observable any other way. They will probably do this for you.
Assuming these coats have a p2p consistent with the stated chest size, I think you will have a fit that allows a normal sweater to be worn underneath. The p2p will probably be about 20.25".
Considering the price of those coats, that shouldn't happen.

 

Thanks for the comments Peacoat, I ended up buying one off ebay for USD82+shipping. Seems like a 1950s 38R peacoat by the tag. Seller gave a p2p of 21" which is way bigger than a normal 38R. I'm hoping he rounded up! If not I guess this will give me some space for a sweater, or i'll just have to feast more over Christmas to fill it up. I'm hoping it wont be too loose. Will post fit pics when it arrives. Seller pics below:

 

 

 

With regards to VT, I did email Gary about some 36R and 38R coats, with a request to check the coats by a strong light. His brief response was that the 36R/38R coats had a p2p of 19.5"/21", and which is the best conditioned coat of each sizing. Didn't manage to get any other details out of him. Sounds like he's busy, business must be good for VT during this time of the year! If anyone's interested, Gary mentions that the Pembroke is in a better condition compared to the Trenton (which corresponds to his selling price).

post #4672 of 5754

Here are pics of the two tags, the paper on the pocket tag is from the dry cleaning.

 

700

 

700

post #4673 of 5754
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlloscos View Post

Here are pics of the two tags, the paper on the pocket tag is from the dry cleaning.

Excellent. That collar tag is always the first to go. It is definitely vintage--way vintage. The pocket tag looks like a WWII, and I have seen the collar tag only on WWII models. If it has 8 buttons showing, it is a WWII. If 6 buttons, then just barely post war. I am betting it has 8 showing with a storm strap under the collar?
post #4674 of 5754

You are right, 8 buttons showing and collar strap.

post #4675 of 5754
At the request of a couple of SF members, I've posted comparison pics of a vintage peacoat and the current Sterlingwear Mil-Spec issue. This is a 63 year old vintage 38R:




And, this is the Sterlingwear current issue MIl-Spec:





The vintage has a smaller, higher armhole and the sleeves are much more slender than the current issue. There is a lot more material in the current issue sleeve.
Also, the front bottom flaps of the vintage coat align more neatly than the current issue.
To my mind, the vintage (kersey wool) is heavier than the current issue. The current issue is softer and more flexible. The current issue has bigger, deeper pockets.
I do not detect any difference in the warmth of the coat on a cold day (such as today.)

As has been pointed out, the lining of the vintage is satin; the current issue lining is satin on the top and sleeves and smooth, reverse fleece on the bottom. The exterior of the vintage is definitely dark blue. The current issue, in most light, appears black. Sometimes, in just the right light, I see hints of midnight blue.

Hope this is useful.
post #4676 of 5754

From what I have been able to learn from this thread, there are not a lot of vintage options for someone with a 34 inch chest.  I purchased a 34r from VT and it was huge - a19in p2p and a huge in the shoulders and arms. Maybe a 32r would work but I have not been able to locate an authentic one in good condition.  Moreover, Peacoat mentioned that the old coats were not made for someone with my build. Is a vintage pea coat not a good option for a 5'9' 34 inch chest man? Should I be looking at Sterlingwear or a Japanese brand like Buzz Rickson?  

post #4677 of 5754

Hey guys, I am looking for a autumn/winter coat and I ran into this one from CT: http://www.ctshirts.co.uk/men's-outerwear/men's-coats/Navy-bridge-coat?q=gbpdefault||JC027NAV|||||||||||||

I really like it, I think it is great value for the money and I also have another 11% discount. My question is - I am 20, going to college, also running small business. My style is mostly smart casual, I wear chinos with shirt, sweater, suede derby shoes. Do you think this peacoat would be the right choice for me? It is versatille enought so I can wear it with any of my pants (navy, gray, blue jeans) and also wear it over a suit? Thanks a lot!

post #4678 of 5754
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJohny View Post

Hey guys, I am looking for a autumn/winter coat and I ran into this one from CT: http://www.ctshirts.co.uk/men's-outerwear/men's-coats/Navy-bridge-coat?q=gbpdefault||JC027NAV|||||||||||||
I really like it, I think it is great value for the money and I also have another 11% discount. My question is - I am 20, going to college, also running small business. My style is mostly smart casual, I wear chinos with shirt, sweater, suede derby shoes. Do you think this peacoat would be the right choice for me? It is versatille enought so I can wear it with any of my pants (navy, gray, blue jeans) and also wear it over a suit? Thanks a lot!


I think it would be fine for casual wear. I would change out the buttons from the pewter to a more subtle horn button. That would eliminate the faux military look and give it a more casual look.

As you know from reading my article on pea coats, this isn't a bridge coat, as stated, but is styled after a peacoat.
post #4679 of 5754
Quote:
Originally Posted by ashejk View Post

From what I have been able to learn from this thread, there are not a lot of vintage options for someone with a 34 inch chest.  I purchased a 34r from VT and it was huge - a19in p2p and a huge in the shoulders and arms. Maybe a 32r would work but I have not been able to locate an authentic one in good condition.  Moreover, Peacoat mentioned that the old coats were not made for someone with my build. Is a vintage pea coat not a good option for a 5'9' 34 inch chest man? Should I be looking at Sterlingwear or a Japanese brand like Buzz Rickson?  

If the 34 is huge on you, a 32 won't be much better. A p2p of 19" (which is standard for the size 34 peacoat) will fit like a snug size 36. That's why I stress the actual p2p of the peacoat in relation to one's measured chest size. The Sterlingwear civilian pea coats are fitted even larger than the issue coats. I don't think the issue coats or the Mil Spec would be any better for you.

Your best bet would probably be the Japanese market, as they are built more like you are. I'm not sure how the Buzz Rickson is fitted. It is a nice coat though.
post #4680 of 5754
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peacoat View Post


I think it would be fine for casual wear. I would change out the buttons from the pewter to a more subtle horn button. That would eliminate the faux military look and give it a more casual look.
As you know from reading my article on pea coats, this isn't a bridge coat, as stated, but is styled after a peacoat.

Thanks a lot for reply. You are right, I would prefer more subtle buttons too. Last question - do you think that tailor could remove the epaulets on the shoulders? I do not really like it. Thank you.

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