MEGA PEACOAT THREAD - 61 threads merged - all Peacoat questions HERE - Page 307

Guys, I'm considering ordering a Sterlingwear Authentic, but not certain on sizing... For reference, I'm in-between a small and medium in the J.Crew Bayswater peacoat. I'm thinking 38R or 40R. What say you?

I say read the last 15 pages of this thread, after you have read my article on Peacoat Dating, or at least the sizing section which is toward the end. The URL is in my signature line below. After that, if you have any questions, one of us here will be glad to answer. PC.

what's your chest size?

Not to be smart, but first he first really needs to learn to accurately measure his chest and then use that measurement in inches. One's "chest size" is a vague and subjective term when trying to find a good close fit in a peacoat. We need to be accurate in order to remove as much error as possible. That's why I referred him to the past posts in this thread and the sizing section in the peacoat article. Once he gets an accurate chest measurement in inches, then we can then help him on the p2p he will need for a close or loose fit--whichever he wants.

yeah sorry thats what i meant, measurement, not size. 

Hey all, hoping to mine some of the expert opinions in this thread to make sure I don't do anything stupid. I have my eye on two coats at the moment, both used. The first is a Sterlingwear Navigator at $100, and the second, judging by Peacoat's dating guide, a 1962 Navy Issue for a good bit cheaper (but missing 1 button). I'm tempted to think the Navigator is a good deal because it retails for $265, but maybe the other's even better!

 

In general, how does today's Sterlingwear match up against the older, authentic Navy coats? On my hunt for a good peacoat should I be sticking to only Navy issue coats? I'm assuming with the Sterlingwear I'm looking at melton wool, whereas with the issued coat I'm looking at kersey. What is the difference between the two, and how significant is it? 

My chest, measured, is 42 inches. The suits hanging in my closest are 38R. As I said, I find the J.Crew Bayswater in size medium a bit too big. The small is a bit too small. I will never wear a sweater underneath the coat and prefer a trim fit.

With that, do you lot think I should order both a 38R and 40R?

i think it's a Neil Barrett - Black Wool Blend Pea Coat

The size of the suits hanging in your closet, as well as the sizes of the J.Crew coats, is immaterial. The only measurement that counts is the actual circumference of your chest. Hopefully you have read in my article how to measure your chest. If your measurement is correct, then you will be looking for a peacoat that has a p2p of 21.25" to 21.5". That usually is a vintage or a current issue (or Mil. Spec.) US Navy peacoat in a size 40. If you choose another type of coat, then the sizing will probably be different, but the p2p will still be about the same if the thickness of the shell is the same--and most of them are about the same. There probably will not be room for a sweater, and you should have a trim fit.

My chest measures 42". I just measured my vintage size 40 and it was 21.25." That is a trim fit for me. The shoulders are almost too small. The Mil. Spec in a 40 will probably be right at 21.5."
Edited by Peacoat - 11/30/12 at 6:31pm

As you are asking for an opinion, I will give you mine. But please understand that other opinions may differ.

I find the vintage pea coats with the Kersey shell, to be nicer than the current issue Melton shell. The vintage coats are a bit more fitted, but probably not by much. When the current issue pea coats with the Melton wool first came out in 1980, there were complaints that they weren't warm coats. Not nearly as warm as the the previous Kersey models. The Navy looked into the complaints and determined the sailors were correct. Instead of going back to the Kersey, which was abandoned as a cost cutting measure, the Navy decided to insert a Thinsulate type liner between the existing liner and the outer shell of the coat. This worked. The peacoat was once again a warm coat.

The difference between the two types of wool is significant, in my opinion. The Kersey is a softer more luxurious wool, while the Melton is a more nappy and coarse wool. My testing showed that the Kersey is a bit more windproof and water resistant. The insulated liner in the current issue, however, does a very good job of blocking the wind in the body of the coat. It is probably as wind resistant in the body as the Vintage models. Wind can still get in through the sleeves, however. As the Kersey has a tighter weave, it is a bit more water resistant, although I wouldn't want to be in a downpour in either of them. Others who have had both coats generally agree with this assessment.

One thing I like about the current issue coat is the lining is softer than the vintage coats and does a better job of trapping body heat. The vintage models have a slick rayon type liner that doesn't trap much, if any, warmth from the body. The benefit of the softer lining is somewhat negated when a sweater is worn under the coat, however. Also remember that the closer to the body the peacoat is fitted, the less air transfer that will take place, thus, the warmer the coat. That means a closely fitted peacoat can be worn in colder weather without a sweater, whereas a sweater might be required in a more loosely fitted coat worn at the same temperature. When the temps drop into the 20s, however, I need a sweater under the peacoat

Sterlingwear has the contract for the current issue peacoat, and has held it for a number of years. Sterlingwear makes quality products. The company also makes what it calls the Mil. Spec. peacoat, which is the same as the current issue pea coats made for the Navy. A few of our members have these coats and are pleased with them. Clarinet Player comes to mind, and another member got one about 3 or 4 days ago. In my opinion if one wants a new peacoat, then the Mil Spec is worth the difference in price over the civilian offerings by the company. They are special order and are not listed on the company website.

Whichever way you decide to go, a properly fitted military peacoat is a relatively warm and classic design that hasn't been improved upon since the end of WWII.
Edited by Peacoat - 12/1/12 at 6:46am

I'm considering buying a J Crew Bayswater Peacoat and I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice on sizing.  

 

Here are my measurements:

 

Height - 6'0

Weight - 150 lb.

Chest - 38

Shoulders - 19

Waist - 31

 

I'm trying to decide between Small and Medium, but I'm a little worried I might be between sizes and neither will look good on me.  Does anyone have any advice or suggestions for other coats that would fit my measurements? I'd be grateful for any guidance anyone can give me.

 

Thanks.

Have you actually read the recent posts in this thread? Go back about 4 pages and read the J. Crew p2p measurements posted by, I believe, Nautikal. Then read my posts for the past 4 or 5 pages and my article on Peacoat Dating, which is linked to in my signature line below. Look for the sizing section toward the end. Everything you want to know has already been researched and answered for you. If you still have a question, then someone will be glad to answer it for you.

I appreciate your empirical approach to sizing recommendations and do agree that size across manufacturers and with certain materials differs wildly, preventing objective suggestions in a void of context. However, given that we're discussing only a handful of garments in a handful of sizes that many of us have each had the experience of trying on/owning and comparing, I'm quite confident anecdotal observations are indeed valuable. This is especially apparent when so many are attempting a similar fit.

Case in point, based on personal experience and given the measurements provided by passionblue22, I'm confident to recommend he order the J.Crew Bayswater Peacoat in size small.

Your contributions over the years are invaluable, but I feel the tape measure is only a starting point.

Thanks a lot Peacoat, I think I'll probably stay on the hunt for a peacoat in kersey wool!

 

Also, in my browsing I came across a coat and couldn't identify it based on your dating guide (I'm not really looking to buy it, just curious). 

 

Description: "US Naval Academy peacoat size 34 made for the Academy by Thorngate in 1985"

 

I've never heard of Thorngate, were they supplying peacoats to the US Navy in '85? Also, in your guide it says: "The pewter button lasted until 1984, when the classic black button with the fouled anchor was returned to service." Is it possible that the coat was produced in '84 and simply wasn't issued until '85? 

 

Pictures (Click to show)

First of all, this isn't a peacoat that was "issued" by the Navy. In the military, officers buy their own clothing from authorized private companies. Thorngate was one such company that supplied uniforms to the Naval Academy. The gold buttons are indicative of an officer's coat or the coat of a Chief Petty Officer (E-7 -- E-9). As the tag says US Naval Academy, it obviously was made for a cadet, probably a Senior cadet very close to graduation. When a candidate is about to graduate from one of the military academies, OCS or college ROTC, representatives from the authorized companies will come to the institutions, measure and take orders for the various items of clothing a new officer will need.

When I was about three or four months away from graduation, representatives from one such company, Lauterstein's I think it was, spent a morning with my class, taking measurements and making recommendations. While some of the standard items of an officer's wardrobe are available at the local post/base exchanges, many items such as hats, dress blues and fitted duty uniforms can be special ordered. Not positive that this coat was obtained exactly that way or not.

I will say this peacoat surprises me, as it has the trappings of an officer's coat (technically a reefer and not a peacoat). I say it surprises me because most officers and chiefs no longer wear pea coats. They usually wear a bridge coat, which is a long dark blue overcoat with gold buttons. While it could be a part of the uniform at the Naval Academy, it looks more like someone bought it for post graduation to wear when he became an officer. If so, it will have small epaulets on the shoulders for the officer's rank. Chiefs, if they choose to wear a peacoat, will wear their rank on the sleeve of the peacoat. On the bridge coat, the chiefs will not wear rank, and the officers will wear theirs on the the shoulders.

So, in just looking at the pictures of the front of the peacoat (reefer), I would say it was an officer's coat. In looking at the tag by Thorngate, I would say it was either for use at the Academy, or for use after graduation. Either way, it is the real deal. Not sure of what type wool went into the shell, however.

Hope this has sufficiently clarified/confused the issue for you.