MEGA PEACOAT THREAD - 61 threads merged - all Peacoat questions HERE - Page 304

The wind chill is 21 degrees but the vintage peacoat is doing it's job. (1949, kersey wool) This is what it looks like all buttoned up and the collar popped. I'm wearing a thin base layer underneath.
Edited by clarinetplayer - 11/24/12 at 3:17pm

Got my Billy Reid Bond peacoat in the other day.

Per usual, it's a bit big on me, but I'll stand by the quality. I put a couple comments and pictures on my blog, but just to give a synopsis: I think it's well made, will fit very flatteringly on most body types, and is a solid addition to any wardrobe. The only complaint I have is that it's not lined (in case anyone cares about that) and the lapels are a bit unusual in my opinion.

Anyhow, thought I'd share my thoughts! Cheers.

Looking mighty good.

Thanks, Peacoat. I was pretty sure it was pretty darned close to '49, nice to have that confirmed. I recall you saying before that your '49 was extra nice and Incan see why now. Yeah, the old Kersey shell is amazing. My old Sterlingwear is a solid coat, but this one is just plain nicer.

And yeah, it was a pretty good deal I think. :-)

Like my old Pappy used to say, sometimes you eat the bear, and sometimes he eats you.

I am looking for a pea coat which is similar to the Burberry wool blend pea coat. I really like the strap on the back, but I cant seem to find a pea coat with similar style. Any suggestions?

who knows the label of this navy pea coat? (Matthew Mosshart wears it)

I actually had to google to gender that dude.

yes, i read only he is the brother of Alison Mosshart from the band The Kills and he dated Kelly Osbourne.

But the importand thing is the pea coat

 

Damn, thats a fine peacoat. Amazing fit.

Here is the current issue Sterlingwear Mil-Spec (2011) all buttoned up, collar popped. There are only seven buttons on the coat. I guess that the US Navy, in a cost cutting measure, decided that a matching 8th button is not necessary. I'm wearing a fairly, beefy Shetland sweater underneath. Apology for the poor light. And, apologies for that mess in the background. I am cleaning out desk drawers.

Could someone help me figure out what size I should get, and which pea coat? I don't have a specific budget, but the vintage military jackets seem to be the best bargain, especially the WWII models. I'm 5'8", 130 lbs, my chest measures 35", and my waist measures 31.5". I'm hoping for a pretty slim fit, that will keep me warm, but will be able to fit a thin sweater underneath if I need to. I'm thinking that I would be around a size 34, but I'm not sure. 

 

Also, does anyone have experience with MTM pea coats? Either Sterlingwear, Indochino, or Temple of Jawnz? Which would have the best quality, and are they worth the price?

 

Thanks!

You know, the stated size of the peacoat depends on what the manufacturer says it is. They vary quite a bit, and the stated sizes really aren't that consistent or dependable. The way the manufacturer determines its stated size is to first take the inside measurement of the form of the peacoat that fits exactly next to the body. That is a size 34 coat would exactly fit a 34" chest. Obviously one can't wear something that tight. They then add somewhere between two inches to eight inches to the interior of the coat to give enough room so it can be worn. Two inches would be a tight fit. The vintage and current issue pea coats have about 4" added. I've never measured them, but I believe that to be about right. The Schott pea coats have closer to 8"; they are huge. Once the manufacturer decides on the amount of freeway inside the coat, the patterns are cut and the coats are made to the pre determined size. This will be the manufacturer's chest or coat size--also called the tag size.

Of course the p2p is only one measurement. All coats are made for a standard body type. The closer one is to the standard, the better the coat will fit in all areas. If one has especially long arms, there will be a problem in that area. But by now most men know where their variances from the standard are, and how to compensate for them. For instance, one will know that a short will fit better than a regular.

Tfhe most objective way to determine how a peacoat will fit is to obtain a pit to pit measurement from the seller. Although this measurement is taken from the outside of the coat, it is a reliable indicator of how the coat will fit. This works because the thickness of the wool shell is about the same on most pea coats. It is a very accurate indicator on the issue pea coats because the thickness of the shell has stayed about the same over the years.

For a sizing guide, see the article that is linked to in my signature line below--if you haven't read it already. The section on sizing is almost to the end of the article. I updated it yesterday.

So I should base it off of the p2p measurement? Which do you think would be a good p2p for me? 

FYI the P2P measurements for the authentic 34s, 32s and J.Crew XS are on the previous page. It took a while for my post to get approved since I'm new, so it was likely missed as the new page started.

In the sizing guide I tell how to measure the p2p. Here it is again:

When I want a pit to pit measurement of the peacoat, I ask the seller to lay the coat face up on a flat surface, such as a bed. Stretch it tightly from side to side and pull the same amount of material evenly from the front and the back. Do not be concerned about any seams--disregard the seams. We want the amount of material stretched in the back to be the same as the amount stretched in the front. Then let the fabric relax and take the measurement. It should be a whole number and a fraction--such as 19.25 inches. Do not round off; we want the entire number. Try to be accurate to 1/8 of an inch. This pit to pit measurement tells us how the coat will fit in the chest, and if the stated chest size on the tag is accurate.


I think I remember that you have a 35" chest. You are between sizes, so harder to get a good fit. The only real choice you have is a size 34, as a 32 will be too small for a 35" chest, and a size 36 will likely be a little large. Size 34s usually measure about 18.25" to 19" p2p. The smaller sizes--34 and 36--are less standard in the p2p measurements for the stated size. For example, we would expect a size 34 to have a p2p of about 18.25," but most of them measure at an even 19." Some are the expected size, but evidently not many. I have three size 34 that range from the mid 60s to 1980, and all have a p2p of 19." I have covered all of this in past posts several pages back.