Originally Posted by dyson
I bought a suit a couple of years ago and ended up getting a 40L jacket. I just tired it on and it's definitely roomy around chest and waist, though, I can't remember why I had to move up a size. I'm guessing it was because my shoulders were too wide for 38. My sleeve length is 34/35; I'm not sure that's proportionate to my height.
Yes, at 6' a dress sleeve length of 34-35 is proportionate. I too am 6" and my dress shirt sleeve length is 35. I measured three of my pea coats for sleeve length. The standard measurement for reference is from the top of the shoulder sleeve down to the cuff. There is a seam at the top where the front of the shoulder attaches to the rear of the shoulder; that is the spot.
My 1965 and my 1972 measured 25". My 1968 measured 25.5. These are all size 42 pea coats. I believe the sleeve length shortens by about 1/2" for each drop in size, but I'm not positive. So a size 40 peacoat would have a sleeve length of about 24.5". Best to get the seller to give you a measurement before you buy. Ask him to measure from the top
of the sleeve seam down to the cuff. It is best to do this while the coat is on a hanger.
Originally Posted by Gunky
What is the main difference between kersey and melton wool?
Is the weave tighter on pre-melton coats? Is kersey more water/wind resistant?
I always hear conflicting stuff and since I only have a vintage kersey coat I cannot comment on melton coats.
The answer is yes and yes. Although after the thinsulate type liner was added to the current issue Melton pea coats, I think that helped block the wind. Still not as windproof in the sleeves though. The Kersey coats have a tighter weave, so they are more water resistant.
When I had a current issue peacoat, I did some comparison testing and those were my findings. My current issue (I believe it was 1992) coat had the thinsulate lining. I think I have another current issue in a size 34 around here somewhere. OK, I just found it. It is a 1980 coat, one of the first ones issued in the "new" Melton wool. I can appreciate no thinsulate type liner in this coat. After the Navy made the switch, there were complaints about the lack of warmth in the new coats. That is when the liner was added. In my 1992 coat the liner was fairly easy to feel between the inside liner and the outer shell. It was a warm coat. I ended up giving to one of my best buddies, five or six years ago, who needed a warm coat for the Winter. He still has it and loves it.
Edit Note: Thanks Dyson. I thought I had answered that question a few days ago, but didn't see it when I looked back a few pages. Your post had not been refreshed on my screen when I answered the question again. Probably added a bit more history this time.Edited by Peacoat - 11/17/12 at 10:26am