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MEGA PEACOAT THREAD - 61 threads merged - all Peacoat questions HERE - Page 296post #4426 of 593911/14/12 at 7:43pm
Styleforum Top Pickspost #4427 of 593911/14/12 at 7:58pmQuote:Originally Posted by ascher07
I'm looking to get a peacoat from one of the big three american manufacturers, leaning Schott at the moment. They all claim to be small and suggest sizing up, even some of the reviews advise it, but several places in this thread seem to suggest the opposite and sizing down. I have a 43" chest, relatively thin in the waist, and wear a 42 jacket. Should I stick with my normal size, go up go down? Also, any preference on coats? I'm currently looking at the 740C, but am not sure about the leather lining on the arm seams.
I'm also looking at getting a peacoat from Schott..i have a 38 inch chest but the Schott size 38 has a p2p of 23". i'm still awaiting the p2p on a 36. so i think you might have to size down.post #4428 of 593911/14/12 at 8:03pmQuote:
That is a huge coat. It is sized like a vintage size 44. No wonder people complain about Schott pea coats fitting like tents. That's why I stress the importance of obtaining the P2p on the exact brand and model one is thinking of buying. If the seller won't provide it, time to move on to another seller.post #4429 of 593911/14/12 at 9:13pmpost #4430 of 593911/15/12 at 2:49amQuote:Originally Posted by badgerbrush
Thanks. My chest measures a 42, and according to the chart (as well as the rep I emailed) I should order a 44. Peacoat has recommended sizing down, so I'm a little torn. I really like how the Mil-Spec fits on you - may I ask you what size that is in relation to your chest size? I'd hate to spend more than I need to on return shipping.
I would go with the size 42. If it does not fit, you can always send it back.post #4431 of 593911/15/12 at 3:08amHere are some pictures for comparison. I am 5' 7", weigh 146, waist 32, chest 39.
Here I am wearing the Sterlingwear 40 R
It was roomy--maybe, too much.
I sent it back and received this 38 R
A more snug fit, but still room enough for a thin sweater.
There many factors (besides) chest measurement to consider: arm length, freedom to move the arms (Can you sit in your car and comfortably hold the steering wheel?), length of coat, hip measurement. A lot depends on your "build".
Also, on Page 248, post 3706, SF member, "boogaboogabooga" has some excellent pics comparing his 36 and 38 coats.post #4432 of 593911/15/12 at 7:38am
Hello all. This is my first post here on Styleforum, though I've lurked for quite some time. First of all I want to thank you guys for this thread, it has been invaluable during my recent search for a peacoat. Special thanks to Peacoat for his coat dating guide. I finally bit the bullet and ordered a peacoat from Vintage Trends, which I have seen is well known here. The coat was listed as Vietnam era, which is correct, '66 at the latest according to Peacoat's guide, as it has the double row of stitching. The coat is beautiful, the only issue being that it may have had a button reattached at some point as the thread comes through the lining. This is really no issue at all. My problem is with fit.
I measure a size 40 chest and purchase a size 40 coat. It isn't overly snug, and I can fit a Shetland sweater underneath it, as you can see in the photos. I can even fit my thick, cable knit sweater underneath it, though that is, perhaps, getting a bit on the tight side. My question is mostly in regards to the shoulders (though critiques on the fit in general are most welcome). Are they too wide? I'm wondering if they are sized correctly, but I just think it should fit more like a suit as opposed to a piece of outerwear, so the shoulders should be narrower. Should I size down to a 38? I just don't know and VT's return policy is...tight, to say the least. 48 hours to ship it out. My girlfriend is accusing me of obsessing as usual, so I figured I would try a knowledgeable group of people who aren't sick of my neuroses yet.Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Pictures are under the spoiler to save some space. I apologize if the pics are poor, this was done while trying to get out the door for work today. (Also, ignore the state of the kitchen, we're remodeling, it will look better soon, I swear!) My concerns are this: If I size down, I may not be able to wear a thicker sweater underneath at all. Also, the sleeves: They are already a bit short on this one for my taste, and were listed as 37" (I've not measured them myself). If I size down, they will only be shorter. I had a previous, Sterlingwear civie coat (wool/nylon) that doesn't fit me anymore and the measurements are all over the place, It also happens to be 2 inches shorter in the body than this one, just covering my butt, despite being a 42R that measures like a 44S. So am I obsessing too much? Any advice you guys could give me would be great. Thanks in advance.
Edited by IronRinn - 11/15/12 at 10:20ampost #4433 of 593911/15/12 at 7:52ampost #4434 of 593911/15/12 at 11:37ampost #4435 of 593911/15/12 at 1:20pmIronrinnj: the fit can only be determined by you. You are the one to wear it; however, It looks OK to me. If you want a tighter fit, then go down to a 38. Just be advised there may not be enough room for a sweater. The sleeves look fine to me. If you go down a size, the sleeves may be about 1/2" shorter, but I think that would still be OK.
A peacoat is an outerwear garment, not a suit jacket, and it should fit as such--in my opinion.post #4436 of 593911/15/12 at 1:22pmQuote:Originally Posted by AskerOfQuestion
Would anyone be able to identify whether this peacoat is made of kersey or melton?
That coat is from 1955. I don't think they did any Melton coats that year, so I would say it is Kersey.post #4437 of 593911/15/12 at 1:34pm
Some more information about the Sterlingwear Mil-Spec coat, and how it is different from the Authentic and Navigator.Quote:
The Authentic and Navigator are cut from the same pattern as the US Navy Military Issued Peacoat, however, there are differences between each coat. As you stated, the Authentic has a full fleece lining with a satin yoke and sleeve, the same as the Military issued, however, the Authentic is made with an 80/20 blend (80% virgin wool and 20% nylon) the Military Issued is made with 100 % wool and this wool is a color treated wool.. To explain, the coat appears black to the naked eye, however, when it is in the sunlight you can see navy blue peeking through. The Navigator is made with a 100% wool and has a full satin lining which makes it different from the Military Issued.
The military issued is made with a 24oz wool. The process to color treat the wool is quite costly, so we do not use this on our Anchor Collection peacoats. This helps keep cost affordable for our Anchor Collection peacoats.
All 3 are cut from the same pattern
All 3 use 24 oz wool
Authentic is 80% wool/20% nylon, Navigator and Mil-Spec are 100% wool
Mil-Spec is color treated using a special process
Authentic and Mil-Spec have a fleece lining with satin yoke and sleeve, Navigator has full satin lining
I actually ordered a military issue coat from the Navy Exchange a week ago but never looked at it under sunlight. It did seem to be identical to my Authentic coat in cut, which is why I returned it. I had been hoping it would fit a little slimmer. I may order one again just to satisfy my curiosity, or wait until I'm near an actual Exchange.post #4438 of 593911/15/12 at 2:03pm
Just a quick question.
From what I've learned, in simple words, vintage pea coats are superior to civilian counterparts because of their trimmer fit and kersey wool. Will anyone explain to me that how kersey wool is better than melton wool? If there are other reasons to buy vintage pea coats then I would like to hear them as well. Thanks!post #4439 of 593911/15/12 at 4:18pmQuote:Originally Posted by dyson
Just a quick question.
From what I've learned, in simple words, vintage pea coats are superior to civilian counterparts because of their trimmer fit and kersey wool. Will anyone explain to me that how kersey wool is better than melton wool? If there are other reasons to buy vintage pea coats then I would like to hear them as well. Thanks!
You would just have to compare the two side by side to fully understand. The Kersey is a softer and thicker shell. It feels better to the touch and looks better. Because it is thicker and more tightly woven, the shell is more wind resistant and water resistant than the Melton.
When the Navy switched to the Melton wool in 1980, there were complaints that it wasn't nearly as warm, and the wind would cut right through it--complaints no one voiced about the Kersey. So the Navy fixed that by adding a thinsulate liner. That took care of those complaints.
I actually like the liner of the current issue pea coats better as it is a softer fabric than the nylon liner of the Kersey coats. To me it feels as if it does a better job of holding in the body warmth. Of course if a sweater is worn under the coat, that is no longer at issue. One thing about the liner on the current issue is that it does pill up after wear. It isn't visible and really isn't a problem for me.
You really can't say that vintage pea coats are slimmer than their civilian counterparts as some of the civilian coats do have a slimmer cut. It is valid, however, to make that statement about the pea coats offered by Sterlingwear, Schott and Fidelity. A nice trim fit can be obtained in the vintage coats by going down one size. That normally doesn't allow room for a sweater, however, But a coat that fits closer to the body will be warmer than one fitted more loosely when the sweater isn't being worn. A simple solution is have two vintage pea coats. One to be worn without a sweater when the temps are in the upper 30s and 40s and one for temps in the upper teens to the 30s, to be worn with a sweater.
When I was a student, I spent a lot of time in NYC. I found that a peacoat with a sweater would get me through most of the weather there. Now of course we did a lot of walking and that tends to keep the body warmer. The normal temps were lows in the upper teens and highs in the twenties to lower thirties. For me, that was perfect peacoat weather. I only had one peacoat then and had enough room for a sweater underneath. Back then, the college student uniform was a peacoat with a turtleneck. A classic and warm combination. Haven't been back in a while and don't know what they are wearing these days.post #4440 of 593911/15/12 at 4:18pm
I'm looking at getting a sterlingwear authentic peacoat, but I'm having a little trouble on which size I should get. I'm 5' 7'', 140lbs, 31 waist, and a 37 chest. I generally wear a 38S jacket, but that is a tad long. I asked a rep at sterlingwear and they said to get a 38R. I'm a little skeptical about that and would probably get a 38S, but I would like some insight before I make the plunge.
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