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MEGA PEACOAT THREAD - 61 threads merged - all Peacoat questions HERE - Page 285

post #4261 of 5862

What are some brands that make quality wool peacoats?

 

I'm looking for something ~$500

 

 

 

Thanks

post #4262 of 5862
If you are looking for 100% wool, it may be hard to find. Sterlingwear makes a nice peacoat, but I believe all of their civilian models are a blend. They have the Navy contract and offer the actual contract peacoat to the civilian market, but it is not advertised. You would have to contact the company personally to get the details. I believe the price is around $400. At least one of the posters here ordered one last year.

As to fit, most civilian pea coats are made oversize and fit like a small tent. One exception is the Sterlingwear Authentic, which is fitted about the same as the current issue pea coats--which are still a bit too large in my opinion.

The other two big domestic manufacturers are Fidelity and Schott. I would put my money on the Sterlingwear.
post #4263 of 5862
I wouldn't go with any of those brands if you're looking for a modern, slim fit. You have to size down like crazy to have a slim fit in the body and it ends up looking out of proportion in other parts.
post #4264 of 5862
Sterlingwear does offer a MTM service on their Military Spec coat. You have to call.
post #4265 of 5862
would a good tailor be able to widen the armhole? Specifically alter it so that the bottom of the armhole is bigger? Would it be called lowering the underarm seamline?
post #4266 of 5862

700

post #4267 of 5862
Quote:
Originally Posted by yywwyy View Post

I wouldn't go with any of those brands if you're looking for a modern, slim fit. You have to size down like crazy to have a slim fit in the body and it ends up looking out of proportion in other parts.

 

Thanks for the replies.

 

I should have mentioned that I'm 5"6 @ 145 lbs, and yes, I'm looking for a modern, slim fit. I wouldn't mind wool blends as long as its quality, comfortable, and durable. I would prefer designer brands as it would be more easier for me to go into a store and try on.

 

J.Crew's Bayswater peacoat and Ralph Lauren Academy Wool Peacoat seems within my price range.

 

But this peacoat from Burberry London is what I want.

 

 

Its $885 from Mr. Porter, I'm willing to pull the trigger but how's the quality of Burberry?

post #4268 of 5862
Quote:
Its $885 from Mr. Porter, I'm willing to pull the trigger but how's the quality of Burberry?

Depends. Prorsum in general yes, excellent quality.

 

London...The made in Romania ones are okayish, a little expensive for it's quality but generally very nice looking. The made in Italy ones are fantastic though, in my opinion.

post #4269 of 5862
are there any peacoats that fit more modern (slim in the body and with trim sleeves) and cost nomore than 200-300$?
oh and it needs to have the actual military peacoat characteristics (naval buttons, side pockets, nothing fancy)

any opinions on the Schott peacoat 740N or its slim-fit model? I tried on a denim&supply pcoat which fit really well also...
post #4270 of 5862
Quote:
Originally Posted by randomtw View Post

would a good tailor be able to widen the armhole? Specifically alter it so that the bottom of the armhole is bigger? Would it be called lowering the underarm seamline?

I doubt so. The ones on mine are pretty high and I sometimes wished they were a bit lower. The Sterlingwear peacoats are designed around military men - big, muscular and all so you might want to consider that before you get one. In my experience I had to change out the shoulder pads to smaller ones and take in the flag-like sleeves.
post #4271 of 5862
post #4272 of 5862

anyone have a good fit guide for pea coats? particularly how long should the pea coat? cover the ass?

post #4273 of 5862
Quote:
Originally Posted by aspasp View Post

anyone have a good fit guide for pea coats? particularly how long should the pea coat? cover the ass?

Member Peacoat has a great thread on Fedora Lounge. It covers dating of vintage peacoats mainly but also addresses some fit issues. I think in general, it should cover the ass, be quite snug in the shoulder, chest and upper arm but not so tight that you can't wear something underneath. I think 1-2 inches larger than your actual chest measurement usually does it.
post #4274 of 5862
i believe the sterlingwear navigator is 100% wool only in black....even though i love my 1949(i think) coat =P
post #4275 of 5862
Quote:
Originally Posted by aspasp View Post

anyone have a good fit guide for pea coats? particularly how long should the pea coat? cover the ass?

Joonian is right; it should cover the butt, and not much more than that. You will find that some designers make their pea coats shorter, or longer, depending on their whim of the moment. But those aren't really pea coats--they are peacoat inspired fashion garments.

Peacoats are designed for men who have started to fill out, who have put on some weight from their adolescent years and who have developed some muscle. They aren't designed for someone who is 5'11" and 145 lbs. with no body fat and little muscle.

For my height, I am perfectly proportioned, In other words the peacoat model is based on someone with my measurements, so it is easy for me to find a peacoat that fits well. To give an example of fit, my chest measures 42". A size 42 vintage Navy peacoat is a good fit for me and allows room for a sweater underneath. It isn't a tight fit, but it is a practical fit. If I don't need a sweater on a particular day--say the temps are in the low 40s--I can wear a size 40 peacoat. There is no room for a sweater, but the fit is slim. Still comfortable but slim. The size 40 fits closer to the body and is warmer without a sweater than the 42.

I mention the stated tag size of the pea coats, but the most important number is the actual measured pit to pit size. Most, or perhaps all, of my size 42 pea coats measure right at 22.25". My size 40 peacoat measures 21.25". These are the standard measurements in those sizes for vintage (pre 1980) Navy pea coats. While perhaps 90% of the coats have the same p2p for these tag sizes, some are a bit larger. That is why I stress the importance of first measuring the circumference of one's chest and then getting an accurate p2p measurement from the seller. While usually an accurate guide, the stated tag size can be different from the actual size of the peacoat. Doesn't happen often, but it does happen.

So, if one wants a slim fit with a 42" chest, the size 40 peacoat would be the one to look for (in the vintage models). For a chest of 40" the size 38 would be the way to go. Assuming, of course, that the p2p is 20.25". For the smaller sizes, the p2p measurements are not what I would expect to see. I have three size 34 pea coats, each with a p2p of 19". We would expect these coats to have a tag size of 36, and to fit like a small size 36. I have also received numerous measurements from others with size 34 pea coats. Most of these also have a p2p of 19", although I have seen a few of a little over 18". So, when we get down into the smaller sizes, I'm not sure about an accurate guide to fit.

The WWII peacoats (8 buttons showing) will fit a little tighter than the vintage models (post war 1945--1946 to 1979), and the current issue (1980 through current) will be a little larger, in general, than the vintage models. For a slim fit in a WWII model, probably not a good idea to buy a peacoat a size smaller than one's measured chest size.

For sleeve length, I like the peacoat to strike at least an inch below the wrist joint. If it is longer than 1/2 way from the wrist to the web of the thumb, it is a bit too long.

These chest sizing guides are based on the US Navy pea coats only. I have no idea how makers of the fashion garments size their coats, but I imagine the p2p guide would still be valid. The body length and the sleeve length should be applicable to the fashion garments as well. The key is getting the seller to give an accurate p2p measurement. Also, in my opinion if one still has the body of an adolescent--no body fat and little muscle mass--It would be better to pursue a fashion peacoat, rather than the Navy peacoat.
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