or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Streetwear and Denim › MEGA PEACOAT THREAD - 61 threads merged - all Peacoat questions HERE
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

MEGA PEACOAT THREAD - 61 threads merged - all Peacoat questions HERE - Page 261

post #3901 of 5734
Plait, if you are interested, Im selling my WWII peacoat, size 36, sleeves are 23". I want to get back what I paid for it, which is 140+ shipping to USA.
its in great condition; no holes in the wool, only a minor rip in the lining around the right armpit.
post #3902 of 5734
Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt Thizzney View Post

this is the jacket i am talking about that is single breasted... it is def military issued 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380374854543#ht_500wt_775

Yep, it's military issue. Perhaps someone has converted it to a single breasted style? Or it could have started life as a regular long overcoat and someone converted it to peacoat size. Or it could have been issued as a short enlisted overcoat. Whatever it is it isn't a peacoat.

The reason I think it may have been altered is that I have never seen one before. This coat was issued in 1984. If it was issued as it appears in the picture, I think I would have seen one during the past 27 years. If one of the service branches issued one like this, there would have been thousands issued, and one would have appeared on ebay or elsewhere by now. At least that is my theory. Very interesting.
Edited by Peacoat - 12/17/11 at 3:27pm
post #3903 of 5734
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plait View Post

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-50s-60s-US-NAVY-USN-BLUE-WOOL-KERSEY-deadstock-PEA-COAT-36-R-NR-/200689323102?pt=Vintage_Men_s_Clothing
I found this 1960 Kersey Wool on ebay that may be a good fit for me. The measurements laying flat and buttoned according to seller:
Size 36R
Arm pit to arm pit is 18 1/2
Shoulder to shoulder is 19
Shoulder to cuff is 25 1/4
Collar seam to bottom is 29"
The only problem is the sleeve might be too long for me. I measured the length from my shoulder to my wrist and it is about 22. I'll need to take it to a tailor to get the sleeve shortened.
What about the length of the jacket from collar to bottom? How do I tell what length I need?

If those measurements are accurate, it might be a bit tight on you with a 38.5 chest. That coat will fit more like a size 34. She made some mention of the p2p measurements being taken at the back of the coat. Why she would do that when the question was about the chest measurement is beyond me. Might ask for clarification and tell her you need the chest p2p. It looks like a nice 1966 peacoat. They usually aren't fitted that snugly.

If you wear regular jackets, and not a short size, then a regular 36 or 38 ought to fit you. My arm from the shoulder to the wrist is 24.5" and I need a sleeve length of 26" to 27". So there isn't a direct correlation there. It is a simple job to take the sleeve in, or to let it out.
post #3904 of 5734
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peacoat View Post

If those measurements are accurate, it might be a bit tight on you with a 38.5 chest. That coat will fit more like a size 34. She made some mention of the p2p measurements being taken at the back of the coat. Why she would do that when the question was about the chest measurement is beyond me. Might ask for clarification and tell her you need the chest p2p. It looks like a nice 1966 peacoat. They usually aren't fitted that snugly.
If you wear regular jackets, and not a short size, then a regular 36 or 38 ought to fit you. My arm from the shoulder to the wrist is 24.5" and I need a sleeve length of 26" to 27". So there isn't a direct correlation there. It is a simple job to take the sleeve in, or to let it out.


I wear regular jackets. I think she made one measurement from the front and from the back. The front is 18.5".

I saw this other auction http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180775739370

This one is also a 36R but the seller says the pit to pit is 21" which seems big to me for a size 36. I'll also ask this seller to measure the chest exactly how you described in your link.
post #3905 of 5734
Yes, 21" is too large for a size 36 peacoat. I would expect it to be about 19.5" but when we get into the smaller sizes, such as 34 and 36, the pit to pits aren't always standard. They vary quite a bit, but not that much. Yes, ask her for another measurement following my guide.
post #3906 of 5734
Ideas for a good quality peacoat in Charcoal/Grey that can be had for $2-300 on sale?
post #3907 of 5734
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plait View Post

Hey everyone,
I need a new winter jacket and I am close to getting the heritage wool pea coat from ll bean:
http://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/70786?feat=26-SR0
I like that the outer fabric is 100% wool and the inside has some Thinsulate Insulation. This should keep me warm in the cold New England/ Mass winters. I know $200 is a little pricey but I guess I'm paying for the ll bean guarantee. Do you think this is a good choice?


18oz wool isn't very thick.  I have a 21oz jacket that's only good for 40s F temps, though it's not lined, so the Thinsulate would help.  For $200 you can get a fantastic vintage coat.

post #3908 of 5734
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blog Marley View Post

Ideas for a good quality peacoat in Charcoal/Grey that can be had for $2-300 on sale?


I have a charcoal JCrew peacoat that other than being too large for me is pretty nice.  It's a pretty nice charcoal.

post #3909 of 5734


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Plait View Post


I wear regular jackets. I think she made one measurement from the front and from the back. The front is 18.5".
I saw this other auction http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180775739370
This one is also a 36R but the seller says the pit to pit is 21" which seems big to me for a size 36. I'll also ask this seller to measure the chest exactly how you described in your link.


 

Because you know the size, you can take her measurements with a grain of salt.  The likelihood of a size 36 post WW2 coat actually measuring 18.5 pit-to-pit is almost nonexistent, in my opinion.  I has a size 36 before I returned it and it was just under 20 inches pit-to-pit.  Now I know they can vary, but it's going to be about 19.5-20 p2p.

 

Also, a size 36 is going to be 18.5 inches across the back from shoulder-to-shoulder.

post #3910 of 5734
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peacoat View Post

Yes, 21" is too large for a size 36 peacoat. I would expect it to be about 19.5" but when we get into the smaller sizes, such as 34 and 36, the pit to pits aren't always standard. They vary quite a bit, but not that much. Yes, ask her for another measurement following my guide.

The seller re-measured and got 20.5 inches. So chest size is actually 38. Does that mean its probably a 38R not a 36R?
post #3911 of 5734
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plait View Post

The seller re-measured and got 20.5 inches. So chest size is actually 38. Does that mean its probably a 38R not a 36R?



It means it probably will fit like a 38 or a large 36. Might work for you. The actually fitting on these coats, in relation to the stated chest size, can vary quite a bit; that's why I recommend using the p2p measurement in addition to the stated size. Of course we have to remember that we are dependent on the measuring skills of the seller. I have found, however, that once the seller has been told how to take the measurement, they are usually accurate enough for our purposes.

As an example, we would expect a tag size 34 peacoat to be 18.25" to 18.5" p2p. This is the standard p2p measurement for that tag size. However, I have three tag size 34s, two vintage and one current issue--1980-- that all have a p2p of exactly 19". And I have seen other stated size 34s that measure the same, while many others come in at the standard measurements. One might think, so what is the big deal about 1/2" or 3/4" of an inch? The big deal is that the p2p measurement is only one half of the circumference of the coat. So the actual error in a cutting variation of 3/4" actually means the coat will fit 1 1/2" larger than expected. That could be the difference between a good fit and one that is too large, especially if the size coat we were looking for was just a little on the large size to start with.

There are considerations other than the fit in the chest. The coat must also fit in the length, both sleeves and bodyl, the shoulders and in the arms. If a tag size 36 is a little large in the chest, the other measurements may well fit as originally designed for a size 36. It is all proportional and designed for a standard body type based on the target population. The chest size is just the starting point for the other pieces of the puzzle the manufacturer must design using a standard statistical deviation to determine how it all fits together.
post #3912 of 5734
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peacoat View Post

It means it probably will fit like a 38 or a large 36. Might work for you. The actually fitting on these coats, in relation to the stated chest size, can vary quite a bit; that's why I recommend using the p2p measurement in addition to the stated size. Of course we have to remember that we are dependent on the measuring skills of the seller. I have found, however, that once the seller has been told how to take the measurement, they are usually accurate enough for our purposes.
As an example, we would expect a tag size 34 peacoat to be 18.25" to 18.5" p2p. This is the standard p2p measurement for that tag size. However, I have three tag size 34s, two vintage and one current issue--1980-- that all have a p2p of exactly 19". And I have seen other stated size 34s that measure the same, while many others come in at the standard measurements. One might think, so what is the big deal about 1/2" or 3/4" of an inch? The big deal is that the p2p measurement is only one half of the circumference of the coat. So the actual error in a cutting variation of 3/4" actually means the coat will fit 1 1/2" larger than expected. That could be the difference between a good fit and one that is too large, especially if the size coat we were looking for was just a little on the large size to start with.
There are considerations other than the fit in the chest. The coat must also fit in the length, both sleeves and bodyl, the shoulders and in the arms. If a tag size 36 is a little large in the chest, the other measurements may well fit as originally designed for a size 36. It is all proportional and designed for a standard body type based on the target population. The chest size is just the starting point for the other pieces of the puzzle the manufacturer must design using a standard statistical deviation to determine how it all fits together.

Peacoat

I ultimately decided not to bid on that auction because the fit is probably too big for me. I was trying to decide all day today whether or not to bite even though it might not fit perfectly. The coat looks to be in excellent condition which I assume is very hard to find at that price.

I looked at some 36Rs on Vintage trends and I noticed that they have a few pre 1970s with melton wool For example, this one is 1947 : http://www.vintagetrends.com/search/itemdetails.asp?YZ=A2A0A59E898B92&RN=18&TR=111

I read your guide and I thought the manufacturers didn't start using the melton wool until 1970s and and the converted fully after 1980s. Is that a mistake by Vintage Trends?

P.S. Your knowledge of peacoats is amazing. Thank you for your many helpful and articulate responses to my questions!
Edited by Plait - 12/18/11 at 9:39pm
post #3913 of 5734
This is a WWII coat that has the Kersey wool. As I have said before, VT is not always correct when they "guess" the type of wool. The Kersey wool was in production until 1980 when the shell was switched to Melton. As stated in earlier posts, some of the models in the 70s had Melton, but all that I have seen were clearly marked as such.

As this is a WWII coat, it will fit tighter than the post war models. It will probably fit like a 34 fits today. I would ask Gary for a pit to pit on the coat, using the instructions given in my article. When measuring the coats, if they measure at all, they tend to be a bit sloppy. For instance, They give the "measured"' chest size the same as the tag size in all of their coats. We know from previous discussions in this thread that this isn't the situation.

My WWII pea coats fit tighter than do the coats of the later years. I just measured my size 42 WWII coat (I'm now down to one) and the p2p is 21.5". We would expect the measurement on a post war vintage size 42 coat to be about 22.5". My other WWII coat measured about the same, as I remember. So, the war models were a full 2" trimmer than the later years. Mine is a trim fit, and I can't comfortably wear a sweater under it. This is something you will need to know when considering a WWII model. I think a 34 would be too tight for you. If you get a WWII model, you will probably want to get a size 38, depending on the p2p, of course. Probably won't have much, if any, room for a sweater. But, as we know, the tighter fitting coats obviate the need for a sweater when one would be required in a looser fitting coat.

If you have other questions, I will be glad to answer them. Eventually we will get it nailed.
post #3914 of 5734
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peacoat View Post

zax3: I think Nathanl has answered your questions, and he is spot on. The only time I have seen Melton wool on a vintage peacoat is in the early 70s, and they were clearly labeled as such. VT doesn't have a real good grasp of the differences in the wool used in the coats back then. I'm pretty sure they have read my article, but it is almost as if whoever is making the comments has lapses of concentration when it comes to stating the type of wool used in the garment. They usually get the year right, but sometimes they lose concentration there as well.
A size 46 is rare in the vintage models, especially one in good condition. I would ask Gary to hold the coat at an angle to a strong light, such as a daytime window and inspect the various panels of the coat. Only then can he be sure there is no damage. Not only do you not want moth holes, but you don't want moth tracking either. Holding it at an angle is the only way to find that type of damage. This coat appears to have little to no wear. Peacoats can take a lot of wear without showing it, but moth holes can show up on a coat with little to no wear. That type of damage is unrelated to wear.
Is that peacoat worth the price? If it has no, or minimal damage, my answer is a simple, yes. I think they may be willing to work with you on a return due to the rarity of the size of the coat. Nathanl has given some good advice there as well.
Please let us know what you decide.

Thanks very much for the insight, Peacoat
I wrote to VT and cited my concerns and was told they have a new exchange policy in which the credit doesn't expire in 6 months. Nothing was mentioned about an outright refund, though.
Also, i questioned the listing of the coat as melton wool and was told by Gary that "50's pea coats are melton wool, 60's and 70's are kersey"
So I'm even more confused now
post #3915 of 5734

Peacoat, do the ww2 peacoats have 10 buttons and the post ww2 peacoats have 8 buttons? Is that a decent way to tell the age? I've read your guide but don't remember if you mentioned this.

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Streetwear and Denim
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Streetwear and Denim › MEGA PEACOAT THREAD - 61 threads merged - all Peacoat questions HERE