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MEGA PEACOAT THREAD - 61 threads merged - all Peacoat questions HERE - Page 260

post #3886 of 5734
Hey everyone,

I need a new winter jacket and I am close to getting the heritage wool pea coat from ll bean:

http://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/70786?feat=26-SR0

I like that the outer fabric is 100% wool and the inside has some Thinsulate Insulation. This should keep me warm in the cold New England/ Mass winters. I know $200 is a little pricey but I guess I'm paying for the ll bean guarantee. Do you think this is a good choice?
post #3887 of 5734

I bought a Surplus Pea Coat but it is single breasted.... whats the deal with that? Gonna try and trade it for a normal one as I cant button it up all the way and get cold!

post #3888 of 5734
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plait View Post

Hey everyone,
I need a new winter jacket and I am close to getting the heritage wool pea coat from ll bean:
http://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/70786?feat=26-SR0
I like that the outer fabric is 100% wool and the inside has some Thinsulate Insulation. This should keep me warm in the cold New England/ Mass winters. I know $200 is a little pricey but I guess I'm paying for the ll bean guarantee. Do you think this is a good choice?

In hindsight, I sort of wish I went vintage, so you might want to consider that. If you get a vintage military coat you'll probably be getting something that is 24 oz wool or thicker. Sterlingwear is great quality, but I think I'd prefer something a bit less padded in the shoulders next time.
post #3889 of 5734
Quote:
Originally Posted by boogaboogabooga View Post

In hindsight, I sort of wish I went vintage, so you might want to consider that. If you get a vintage military coat you'll probably be getting something that is 24 oz wool or thicker. Sterlingwear is great quality, but I think I'd prefer something a bit less padded in the shoulders next time.

I thought about getting vintage but I have no idea what size I need to get. Can you give me any advice? If it helps my suit jacket is a 38R. I don't want to buy something off ebay that doesn't fit and then have to deal with the hassle of returning it. If I get it from ll bean, I can go to the store and try them on.
post #3890 of 5734
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plait View Post

I thought about getting vintage but I have no idea what size I need to get. Can you give me any advice? If it helps my suit jacket is a 38R. I don't want to buy something off ebay that doesn't fit and then have to deal with the hassle of returning it. If I get it from ll bean, I can go to the store and try them on.

Well, first you've got to learn how to accurately measure yourself. Then you have to learn how to accurately measure garments. Then you sort of have to use all the information to work for you. I'm an amateur at measuring myself and I know absolutely nothing about measuring garments although I'm pretty sure Peacoat does. He might chime in, as he is the patron saint of potential pea coat wearers everywhere. Also, I'll do a quick search and see if I can find a response to one my questions from Peacoat that may help you.
Edited by boogaboogabooga - 12/16/11 at 10:22pm
post #3891 of 5734
And I can't find it. For whatever reason it doesn't seem as though Styleforum will allow me to back track through all my posts in this thread which makes things problematic.
post #3892 of 5734
Quote:
Originally Posted by boogaboogabooga View Post

And I can't find it. For whatever reason it doesn't seem as though Styleforum will allow me to back track through all my posts in this thread which makes things problematic.

Well I'll post a little bit of information about my body type. And then wait for Peacoat to chime in.

I'm slim type (I have to wear slim to extra slim fit on all my dress shirts).

I'm 5 feet 8.5 inches tall

Chest size is 38.25 inches.

Shoulder to wrist is 22".
Edited by Plait - 12/17/11 at 11:56am
post #3893 of 5734
Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt Thizzney View Post

I bought a Surplus Pea Coat but it is single breasted.... whats the deal with that? Gonna try and trade it for a normal one as I cant button it up all the way and get cold!

If it is single breasted it isn't a military surplus peacoat. All military peacoats are double breasted.
post #3894 of 5734
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plait View Post

Hey everyone,
I need a new winter jacket and I am close to getting the heritage wool pea coat from ll bean:
http://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/70786?feat=26-SR0
I like that the outer fabric is 100% wool and the inside has some Thinsulate Insulation. This should keep me warm in the cold New England/ Mass winters. I know $200 is a little pricey but I guess I'm paying for the ll bean guarantee. Do you think this is a good choice?

I don't know much about the LL Bean pea coats, but I am familiar with other outerwear the company sells--high quality serviceable items that are generally warm and comfortable to wear. But here we have to realize it is a merchandising company that is highly influenced by fashion. The company markets its pea coats as soft Italian wool. The weight of the wool is only 18 oz. while all of the vintage pea coats are 32 oz. I believe the current issue, since 1980, are a little lighter than that--maybe 28 oz.? So that might indicate the shell isn't as windproof as you might like. I don't think you would have to worry too much about whether the outer shell is waterproof as you will be more concerned about snow than rain. It will do fine in that situation. Bean has added a thinsulate liner to give it some warmth. The sizing is "relaxed" to allow layering under the coat, which you will need way up there in the frozen northland. The best part about the coat is that it is available for you to try on and to get the fit you want. You can also judge the weight while you are there; it should feel heavy.

As to fit in the vintage models, it depends on whether you want a slim look or room to layer a sweater under the coat. With a 38.5 chest, I would say a size 36 would give you a slim look and may even allow a sweater to be worn underneath. A size 38 would definitely allow for a sweater, but might not look so trim. Most of the posters on this forum go for the trim look. As an example, my chest is 42". A size 40 peacoat is a trim fit, but it is too tight for me to comfortably wear a sweater. A size 42 allows room for a sweater and still gives me a good fit without one. But keep in mind that I like for my outerwear to be a little larger than many people prefer. Most of the posters on this forum would say that a sweater under the size 40 fits just fine. So, it is all subjective.

Another thing to keep in mind is the tighter the fit, the less need for a sweater. A sweater takes up the space between the body and the inside of the coat. This reduces the amount of cold air transfer and allows the body to heat that space and keep the heat in with a sweater. If the peacoat fits close to the body, there is less air moving around that area, and the need for layering is reduced. In your area, I would think a sweater would be needed frequently.

If you haven't done so, read my article that is linked in my signature line below. That will explain the differences in the vintage and current issue models, and will give information on dating the vintage coats. It will also give you some information on pit to pit measurements and what to look for.

If you have other questions, let us know. Good luck.
post #3895 of 5734
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peacoat View Post

I don't know much about the LL Bean pea coats, but I am familiar with other outerwear the company sells--high quality serviceable items that are generally warm and comfortable to wear. But here we have to realize it is a merchandising company that is highly influenced by fashion. The company markets its pea coats as soft Italian wool. The weight of the wool is only 18 oz. while all of the vintage pea coats are 32 oz. I believe the current issue, since 1980, are a little lighter than that--maybe 28 oz.? So that might indicate the shell isn't as windproof as you might like. I don't think you would have to worry too much about whether the outer shell is waterproof as you will be more concerned about snow than rain. It will do fine in that situation. Bean has added a thinsulate liner to give it some warmth. The sizing is "relaxed" to allow layering under the coat, which you will need way up there in the frozen northland. The best part about the coat is that it is available for you to try on and to get the fit you want. You can also judge the weight while you are there; it should feel heavy.
As to fit in the vintage models, it depends on whether you want a slim look or room to layer a sweater under the coat. With a 38.5 chest, I would say a size 36 would give you a slim look and may even allow a sweater to be worn underneath. A size 38 would definitely allow for a sweater, but might not look so trim. Most of the posters on this forum go for the trim look. As an example, my chest is 42". A size 40 peacoat is a trim fit, but it is too tight for me to comfortably wear a sweater. A size 42 allows room for a sweater and still gives me a good fit without one. But keep in mind that I like for my outerwear to be a little larger than many people prefer. Most of the posters on this forum would say that a sweater under the size 40 fits just fine. So, it is all subjective.
Another thing to keep in mind is the tighter the fit, the less need for a sweater. A sweater takes up the space between the body and the inside of the coat. This reduces the amount of cold air transfer and allows the body to heat that space and keep the heat in with a sweater. If the peacoat fits close to the body, there is less air moving around that area, and the need for layering is reduced. In your area, I would think a sweater would be needed frequently.
If you haven't done so, read my article that is linked in my signature line below. That will explain the differences in the vintage and current issue models, and will give information on dating the vintage coats. It will also give you some information on pit to pit measurements and what to look for.
If you have other questions, let us know. Good luck.

Thanks for the advice peacoat.

I will check out your link. I will probably look for a WW2 pea coat for the heavier wool. If I go for size 36, do you think the fit would be too tight if I wear it over a dress shirt or thin sweater for example. I want a slimmer look but I don't want to feel like I can't breathe or move my arms at all.
post #3896 of 5734
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plait View Post

Thanks for the advice peacoat.
I will check out your link. I will probably look for a WW2 pea coat for the heavier wool. If I go for size 36, do you think the fit would be too tight if I wear it over a dress shirt or thin sweater for example. I want a slimmer look but I don't want to feel like I can't breathe or move my arms at all.

You don't need to go all the way back to WWII to find the heavier wool. The 32 oz. Kersey was in production until 1979. In1980 the Navy changed to the Melton wool. Still a heavy wool, but not as heavy nor as nice a finish as the Kersey wool.

With a slender body type, I think you might be able to get by with a thin sweater and a size 36.
post #3897 of 5734
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peacoat View Post


If it is single breasted it isn't a military surplus peacoat. All military peacoats are double breasted.


well this is the coat...

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380374854543#ht_500wt_775

 

what u think?

post #3898 of 5734

this is the jacket i am talking about that is single breasted... it is def military issued 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380374854543#ht_500wt_775

post #3899 of 5734
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-USN-US-Navy-Wool-Peacoat-Mens-36R-Small-Pea-Coat-/180775739370?pt=US_CSA_MC_Outerwear&hash=item2a1712dfea

What do you guys think about this? Looking to pick one up!

I"m not an expert on military peacoats. I"m 5'9 and 140lbs. I bought a 34R sterlingwear and it's really tight.
post #3900 of 5734
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peacoat View Post

You don't need to go all the way back to WWII to find the heavier wool. The 32 oz. Kersey was in production until 1979. In1980 the Navy changed to the Melton wool. Still a heavy wool, but not as heavy nor as nice a finish as the Kersey wool.
With a slender body type, I think you might be able to get by with a thin sweater and a size 36.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-50s-60s-US-NAVY-USN-BLUE-WOOL-KERSEY-deadstock-PEA-COAT-36-R-NR-/200689323102?pt=Vintage_Men_s_Clothing

I found this 1960 Kersey Wool on ebay that may be a good fit for me. The measurements laying flat and buttoned according to seller:

Size 36R
Arm pit to arm pit is 18 1/2
Shoulder to shoulder is 19
Shoulder to cuff is 25 1/4
Collar seam to bottom is 29"

The only problem is the sleeve might be too long for me. I measured the length from my shoulder to my wrist and it is about 22. I'll need to take it to a tailor to get the sleeve shortened.

What about the length of the jacket from collar to bottom? How do I tell what length I need?
Edited by Plait - 12/17/11 at 12:56pm
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