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MEGA PEACOAT THREAD - 61 threads merged - all Peacoat questions HERE - Page 226

post #3376 of 5715
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peacoat View Post




On the 38 I'd like to know the pit to pit, across the chest, with the fabric first pulled tight and then allowed to relax just before the measurement is taken.

I'll get the measurement this weekend. I'll let the jacket relax from shipping first.
post #3377 of 5715
I bought a 36S Sterlingwear Authentic from Kaufman's Army and Navy in NYC for $170. Fits great and the quality is top notch. Enough room for layering underneath too.
post #3378 of 5715
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joenobody0 View Post



Hello,

Thanks for the kind words. I think ideally I'd probably be a 37S. The 36S looks very "style forum approved" on me, but it's too constricting. I can't raise my arms above 45 degrees. I'm going to go with the 38S and take in the body if it still bothers me when the coat has had a chance to break in a bit.


That's a good decision.  If 37S is your ideal size then I'm sure a tailor will be able to alter the 38S to where you'd like the fit to be. 

post #3379 of 5715
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joenobody0 View Post


I'll get the measurement this weekend. I'll let the jacket relax from shipping first.


I have found that shipping does tend to be stressful on a new peacoat, and a few days of relaxing is a good idea.

If you would also post your chest measurement, wearing just a tight Tshirt, or no shirt, that would give prospective buyers an objective frame of reference for the way the 38 fits you and the way a size 38 might fit them. For instance, we know that a size 36 is a bit snug on you and a 38 might be just a little loose, but we don't yet know your measured chest size. This would eliminate some of the subjectivity inherent in a message board discussion about the fit of a particular peacoat. Just a suggestion.

In a colder climate where the temps are frequently below freezing, a sweater usually needs to be worn under the peacoat to slow the transfer of cold air, so factor that in when deciding whether to have the coat altered. For instance, in NYC the daytime highs are often in the 20s with lows in the teens. If I were doing a lot of walking, I was usually OK without a sweater during the daytime, but one still felt good. That was back in the day when the normal uniform in the Village was a peacoat and a turtleneck. Wearing that combination, we were ready for just about any Winter weather in that section of the northeast.
post #3380 of 5715
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peacoat View Post



I have found that shipping does tend to be stressful on a new peacoat, and a few days of relaxing is a good idea.

If you would also post your chest measurement, wearing just a tight Tshirt, or no shirt, that would give prospective buyers an objective frame of reference for the way the 38 fits you and the way a size 38 might fit them. For instance, we know that a size 36 is a bit snug on you and a 38 might be just a little loose, but we don't yet know your measured chest size. This would eliminate some of the subjectivity inherent in a message board discussion about the fit of a particular peacoat. Just a suggestion.

In a colder climate where the temps are frequently below freezing, a sweater usually needs to be worn under the peacoat to slow the transfer of cold air, so factor that in when deciding whether to have the coat altered. For instance, in NYC the daytime highs are often in the 20s with lows in the teens. If I were doing a lot of walking, I was usually OK without a sweater during the daytime, but one still felt good. That was back in the day when the normal uniform in the Village was a peacoat and a turtleneck. Wearing that combination, we were ready for just about any Winter weather in that section of the northeast.

I took some measurements tonight. My chest, while wearing a thin tight undershirt is about 37.5 inches.

I measured the 38S jacket P2P as 20.5. I measured with the fabric pulled tight since that was the only way I could get a reasonably accurate measurement. I measured a couple of times just to make sure this was accurate, and it was. I also measured the 36S just to see how it compared. It was 19 P2P. I think that measurement is fairly accurate judging from the fit on my body.

I tried on the the 38S over an undershirt, a slim fit OCBD, and a light sweater. It fit nearly perfectly. I'm sure I wouldn't have been able to button the 36S.

On a sadder note, one of the buttons is already falling off the 38S - not super quality... Also, the vent doesn't overlap the same amount on both jackets. For ~$200 these are acceptable flaws but people need to realize this jacket isn't going to compare with nicer (MC style) tailored overcoats. I checked out the full size range of some model of Schott peacot and found the quality to be lower than these Sterlingwear coats.
post #3381 of 5715
Joe, thanks for taking the time to measure. Had you let the coat relax before taking the measurement, it would probably have been right at 20.25. This is consistent with the p2p on a vintage peacoat, so the fit of the chest size is the same as the older models. It appears that "Authentic" is an appropriate name with respect to fit--at least in the chest.

Sewing the button back on is fairly simple. Just make sure you don't sew through a pocket. Go to a fabric store (or online) and get a spool of heavy black or navy thread, a large seam ripper and a large thimble. The ripper will allow you to remove the old thread without removing any of the peacoat, and the thimble will allow you to force the needle through the thick and heavy fabric.

You will want to make a "stem" or a "shank" between the button and the button hole so it will be easier to button the coat.

Here is a link that explains how to replace a button the right way.

http://www.wikihow.com/Sew-a-Button

Good luck.
post #3382 of 5715
Quote:
Originally Posted by roots1976 View Post

Hey, guys, I want to buy a Schott 740N pea coat in black, but I'm not sure which size would fit me best. I'm 5'9", 175 lbs with a 41" chest. Since I have no idea how tailored these coats are, I'd like to know if someone about my measures would recommend a size 40 or a size 42. Any helpful advice is most appreciated!



Measured my chest again today. This time the correct way under the arms over the breast and shoulder blades. I haven't a chest of 41", it really is 109cm / 42.91". The customer service over at Schott told me that a size 42 pea coat 740N has a chest of 43". Does that mean a size 42 will be perfect for me or too small or too big ? Another online store told me that size 42 is P2P 26". That would make 52". Sounds huge... Damn, I'm just confused! confused.gif

 

post #3383 of 5715



 

Quote:
Originally Posted by roots1976 View Post

Hey, guys, I want to buy a Schott 740N pea coat in black, but I'm not sure which size would fit me best. I'm 5'9", 175 lbs with a 41" chest. Since I have no idea how tailored these coats are, I'd like to know if someone about my measures would recommend a size 40 or a size 42. Any helpful advice is most appreciated!


Well, I measured again, this time the correct way under the arms over the breast over the shoulder blades. My chest is not 41" like measured before, but it is 109cm resp. 42.91". Now I'm confused if a size 42 Schott pea coat model 740N would still be the right size to choose. The Schott customer service told me that the chest of a size 42 pea coat is 43". Another online store told me that a size 42 pea coat is P2P 26". That makes me wonder, because it would mean that actually the chest is 52" around ? With my a chest at almost 43" it would be 9" more...? I don't get it!
 

 

post #3384 of 5715
Roots: It has been my rather extensive experience in fitting peacoats that the stated size is only a starting point. In order to get a good fit, the p2p measurement must be obtained from the seller. And don't let them tell you the "chest size" of the coat. Too much error can creep in that way. You need for them to actually measure the pit to pit. Ask them to stretch the fabric tight, let it relax and then take the measurement across the chest, just under the armpits. Some will want to measure across the back. That's not what you want. Some will want to measure while the fabric is pulled tight, that's not what you want. You want them to pull it tight across the chest and then let it relax. There are reasons we do it this way. First of all it is difficult for one person to get an accurate measurement with a tape measure while, at the same time, pulling the fabric tight. Secondly, how tight is tight? If two people are involved, one pulling and the other measuring, the measurement will be different than if the same person is both pulling and measuring. Also, many of the eBay sellers are women, and they just don''t have the strength of a man--thus a different measurement. We are looking for consistent and objective measurements; this is the best way I have found to get them.

At a 42.9 you are basically a 43" chest--a "tweener" or in between chest sizes. For tweeners, I have found they are more satisfied with the fit if they go to the smaller size, in your case a 42, rather than up a size to a 44. By going down the fit will be better than by going up, and there will still be room for a sweater underneath.

In mentioning chest sizes I am merely using that as a short hand method of describing what you need for a proper fit--a starting point, as I mentioned above. A size 42 peacoat should have a p2p of about 22.25 to 22.50. This is the measurement you are looking for, irrespective of the stated chest size, which is merely the manufacturer's best estimate of the size of its garment. In fitting a peacoat, I don't want an estimate, I want objective measurements.

See if Gail, at the Schott message board, or perhaps another blogger, will give you the actual p2p on their size 42. If it is 22.25 to 22.5 it should be a good fit in the chest. I can't vouch for the fit elsewhere as my expertise doesn't"t lie with civilian peacoats.

As to the p2p of 26", that would be consistent with a size 50 issue peacoat--made for the big eaters.

If you haven't done so, go to my article on peacoat dating. There is a section on sizing toward the end of the article. The link is in my signature line at the bottom of this page.

Hope this is helpful.
Edited by Peacoat - 9/18/11 at 8:42am
post #3385 of 5715
EDIT NOTE: Content of post deleted because it was a duplicate of the one above, and I answered my own question. Couldn't find a way to do a complete and clean delete of the entire message, so I did it this way.
Edited by Peacoat - 9/18/11 at 12:14pm
post #3386 of 5715
I just picked up a 1962 Navy issue peacoat from a vintage clothing store in Melrose for $40. My first peacoat was a 1968 40R. This one is a 38R and fits more to my liking. Something interesting that I noticed, and maybe Peacoat can comment, but the 1962 will button on either side, meaning there are 3 button eyelets on either side, allowing me to button the left breast over the right, or vice versa. My other peacoat only has the middle button on one side.

Also, this coat has the corduroy pockets while the 1968 has blue cotton lined pockets.

The coat has clearly been hanging on a wire hanger for quite awhile as the shoulder shows a crease. Will a dry cleaning restore the shape?
post #3387 of 5715
1965 was the last year peacoats would button from either side.

1967 was the last year for corduroy hand warmer pockets. Starting in 1968 the lining was cotton.

Both of these features are on the 1962 coat, but not the 1968,

Your 1962 peacoat will have a double row of stitching about 2" above the cuff, with a single row of stitching at the cuff. Your 1968 coat has only the single row of stitching at the cuff.

Please measure your chest at the widest part under the armpits, wearing just a tight T-shirt, or no T-shirt and let me know the results. Please don't guess or give your normal suit size. I'm guessing your measured chest size is between 38 and 40.

Also, do you have room for a sweater under the size 38 peacoat without binding?

Yes, dry cleaning should help the shoulder creases. This is the reason I only use wide (3") wooden hangers for my peacoats. Dry cleaning will also kill any bugs that may have made a home in the frabric. I like to clean all newly acquired peacoats before bringing them into the closet for this reason.
post #3388 of 5715
Awesome information in that post. Thanks, Peacoat. I'll do some measurements and get back to you ASAP. Do you need any measurements on the coat? The 1962 does indeed have the double row of stitching above the cuffs, no major differences other than that it seems.
post #3389 of 5715
Quote:
Originally Posted by Potatowned View Post

Awesome information in that post. Thanks, Peacoat. I'll do some measurements and get back to you ASAP. Do you need any measurements on the coat? The 1962 does indeed have the double row of stitching above the cuffs, no major differences other than that it seems.

I would like to see the measurement on the 38. Please lay the coat out on a flat surface, chest up. Pull the fabric tight and then let it relax. Take the measuremt across the chest from just under one armpit to just under the opposite armpit. It should measure about 20" plus a fraction, and will probably be about 20.25" plus or minus .25". Sometimes there will be a jacket with a non standard chest size, but most (95%) fall in this range.
post #3390 of 5715
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