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Brioni or Rubinacci

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 
I am considering of purchasing a Brioni MTM or a Rubinacci Bespoke Suit. Could I have forum-members views on these two houses and their MTM/Bespoke programmes? Any views on relative style, quality of fabric, workmanship, durability? In all honesty I am having a very difficult time choosing between the two. Whilst the Rubinacci suits seem to have some very nice features, like silk lining, option of selecting more robust fabrics (S100s or S120s), soft feeling, I also like the style and cut of the Brioni MTM suits and am trusting the Brioni brand a lot based on my casual wear experience so far with Brioni and in general view that Brioni is among the best suitmakers gloablly (whereas Rubinacci is not as known). I really would appreciate views that would make my selection easier.
post #2 of 14
Brioni - s100's. I wear these myself, and I just cant fault the cut, quality of construction and their longevity. Just my humble view

John
Thatcham, England
post #3 of 14
i'm one of the biggest fans of Brioni on styleforum (and probably askandy, as well)-- however, if you're considering Brioni made to measure vs. a true bespoke, i think you might enjoy the rubinacci suit more, and with perhaps a slightly better fit.

This is a much different situation, considering brioni vs. a very high quality/ skilled bespoke service, as opposed to the debate i usually see on the forum (Brioni RTW vs. some lowbrow "bespoke" service by an oriental tailor, local guy who may or may not know his trade as well as the customer hopes, etc., but is very cheap). That's why i buy brioni off the rack-- it FITS well, looks great, and i know it is of a high quality make. I'm a perfect 42short in brioni, and judging by many of the photos of cutrate "bespoke" tailors, i think my RTW Brioni suits look 10 times better/ sharper. In your situation, though, I have to say i would go with the true bespoke from the well-known Rubinacci shop:

"The jacket was a brand-new style"”in effect a new style of life," continues Rubinacci as he leads the way to the front of the shop. "It was soft and luxurious, like a beautiful sweater, and like a sweater it allowed for total freedom of movement." He veers aside suddenly to greet two marchesi"”one in for a fitting, the other apparently just for a chat"”and as I watch them talking, I realize how perfectly adapted to the ethos of the city his father's innovation remains: Appropriately for the climate, the Rubinacci jackets on all three men are lightweight, with almost no apparent substructure, and yet they're so beautifully molded to the body that the fabric stays unwrinkled and smooth. At the same time, I notice that their wide sleeves and high armholes allow the arms free movement, without any wrenching at the shoulder. These jackets elegantly accommodate the second language of Naples: the gesturing hands, waving arms, shrugging shoulders that I see being deployed here too."
post #4 of 14
Rubinacci bespoke would undoubtedly be an incredible experience, which I would urge you to partake of.

koji
post #5 of 14
What about the cost of these adventures? Will they cost the same assuming a similar fabric?
post #6 of 14
First decide which silhouette you prefer. If equal, then go for Rubinacci bespoke. The fit will be much better.
post #7 of 14
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeber
What about the cost of these adventures? Will they cost the same assuming a similar fabric?

They are priced about the same. My only worry is with Rubinacci, that I will be disappointed by the no-canvass "sweater" look. I am sure I would appreciate the comfort, however I must admit I also love my suits for their structure posture that they give a wearer. In this regard, Brioni looks like a perfect cut and as some forum members have suggested can be considered the "don't f*** with me cut".
post #8 of 14
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thracozaag
Rubinacci bespoke would undoubtedly be an incredible experience, which I would urge you to partake of.

koji

Do you have a Rubinacci Bespoke? What are famous characteristics?
post #9 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mecnun
They are priced about the same. My only worry is with Rubinacci, that I will be disappointed by the no-canvass "sweater" look. I am sure I would appreciate the comfort, however I must admit I also love my suits for their structure posture that they give a wearer. In this regard, Brioni looks like a perfect cut and as some forum members have suggested can be considered the "don't f*** with me cut".
You're talking opposite ends of a spectrum here, from Naples to Rome. If you want structure and "don't fuck with me"ness, then you will be unhappy with Rubinacci, no matter the fit. If you want a suit that rides your shoulders like air, go with Naples.

Famous characteristics: little to no shoulder padding, wide sleeves tiny armhole, little to no chest structure, barcchina pocket, wide lapels, high gorge, two or 2.5 buttons, 2 vents, possibly patch pockets. Soft, above all else.
post #10 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mecnun
Do you have a Rubinacci Bespoke? What are famous characteristics?

I wish; I want him to try it so I can learn about the experience.

koji
post #11 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thracozaag
I wish; I want him to try it so I can learn about the experience.

koji


Why not travel to London & order?
post #12 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by kcc
Why not travel to London & order?

Someone care to lend me 20 grand?

koji
post #13 of 14
let's see, I going to wear my thinking cap :

round trip to UK = $500.

2-pc garment = $4k


excess expenditure, hmmmm?
post #14 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by kcc
let's see, I going to wear my thinking cap :

round trip to UK = $500.

2-pc garment = $4k


excess expenditure, hmmmm?

I'm only allowed one suit?

koji
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