• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Altering an overcoat

Chips

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 5, 2008
Messages
1,530
Reaction score
12
I scored a good deal on a second hand St Andrews 100% cashmere overcoat that I'll need to have altered to fit better. It's amazingly warm and heavy ( too heavy for California weather, even in winter) but needs the sleeves let out a bit. I want to have it shortened considerably, somewhere above the knees, hence the reason for this thread, I'm not certain exactly where to have it end. I'm 6'3" if that matters. The whole thing will be need to be taken in a good deal as well. I can pull a good eight inch space between my chest and the outside of the coat.

The roundness of the shoulders is growing on me, I've never seen that in any other overcoat before.

The other question I had, with all that extra fabric that will be cut off, is it possible for a good tailor to fashion a belt and side belt loops around the waist like a raincoat? I know there wouldn't be enough length of fabric to make it out of one continuous piece, but if the seam is placed in the middle of the back, would that work?

Forgive the crappy baggy pants, I just threw on what was closest to me.

DSC00306.jpg
 

bengal-stripe

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 23, 2002
Messages
4,625
Reaction score
1,285
Letting down sleeves in a garment that has been worn is always problematic:
there might be signs of wear or dirt that will show once the sleeves got lengthened.

As for the belt, that will have to pieced significantly: I presume the coat has a vent, so any belt would have four or even five pieces stitched together (usually a belt is constructed from two pieces). I don’t think that would be very attractive.

My suggestion would be to use the cut-off material to made cuffs or gauntlets for the sleeves; that would cover all potential marks of wear.
1zb6oar.jpg


Although it might not be standard with a raglan-sleeved overcoat, it will look better than the sleeves to short.

Talk to your tailor!
 

JayJay

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Messages
24,297
Reaction score
439
I like the current length of the coat, but I prefer long coats.
 

Chips

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 5, 2008
Messages
1,530
Reaction score
12
The cuff/gauntlet idea sounds good. Yeah I forgot to mention that the center vent is quite large. I dont want to spend $400 on alterations...
 

JayJay

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Messages
24,297
Reaction score
439
Originally Posted by Chips
The cuff/gauntlet idea sounds good. Yeah I forgot to mention that the center vent is quite large. I dont want to spend $400 on alterations...
Nice coat, by the way.
 

needshoehelp

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2007
Messages
1,150
Reaction score
3
I don't think this coat will work as a shorter coat. Either wear it long, or get a different coat...
 

imageWIS

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Apr 19, 2004
Messages
19,716
Reaction score
106
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe
Letting down sleeves in a garment that has been worn is always problematic:
there might be signs of wear or dirt that will show once the sleeves got lengthened.


But, if the garment in question is tailored longer via the top of the sleeves? I thought this was the recommended solution to lengthen sleeves that have working buttonholes. I'm assuming it would work in this case as well, no?
 

a tailor

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Jul 22, 2006
Messages
2,855
Reaction score
145
Originally Posted by imageWIS
But, if the garment in question is tailored longer via the top of the sleeves? I thought this was the recommended solution to lengthen sleeves that have working buttonholes. I'm assuming it would work in this case as well, no?

no if its worn on the edge its worn and thats it. hopefully it may not be.
 

a tailor

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Jul 22, 2006
Messages
2,855
Reaction score
145
nont shorten above the knees. the sleeves i think will be fine with cuffs .

what the hell is a gauntlet?

funk and wagnalls says its a glove worn on the hand.
 

Chips

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 5, 2008
Messages
1,530
Reaction score
12
I think I'll just take it to the knee area. Looking at the photo, I notice that I don't mind the length so much as I do mind the bulk. The whole thing looks amazing, no wear that I can detect, but who knows what would be found when fiddling with the cuffs. I might just leave them. As far as terminology, forgive my ignorance in using another persons terms. I thought I'd heard the term gauntlet before, in regards to some sort of rolled back cuff on a coat. But I'll take a tailors word for it over mine any day.

I have two other overcoats that are way too big on me now, of which I also had shortened. I might fire off some shots of those so I can compare objectively.

I might swap out the buttons for a darker color as well. Not sure. On a coat like this, I'd imagine there's not a problem with buttoning them all? I wish I could have more of a lapel look to this one.
 

Chips

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 5, 2008
Messages
1,530
Reaction score
12
Here are my other two overcoats, both which are too big to wear, but not worth the additional costs to have altered, for comparison.

DSC00313.jpg


I prefer the length on this black one the best. I hadn't seen it full length on me till I took this picture. I couldn't use my flash for the black one without floating dust showing up reflecting back into this Sony point and shoot.

DSC00310.jpg


This one is not quite as baggy, but I think it's a tad too short.

So that is the length I'll shoot for on the St Andrews.
 

The Louche

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2008
Messages
1,213
Reaction score
10
This is a nice coat, but not worth the hundreds of dollars in alterations IMO.

Not to hijack, but I'd like to append to this thread. Can overcoat sleeves be shortened via the sleeve head in the same manner as a suit or sport coat?
 

hchc

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2009
Messages
65
Reaction score
0
it's going to cost a lot to get all that work done... you sure you don't want to buy a better fitting coat to begin with and make minor alterations to taste? I don't think even after alterations the shape of the coat will be all that flattering
 

Chips

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 5, 2008
Messages
1,530
Reaction score
12
I'll take it in and get an estimate. I much prefer the herringbone pattern over the other two. If I do get it tailored, I will re post pics here.
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 92 37.6%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 90 36.7%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 26 10.6%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 41 16.7%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 38 15.5%

Forum statistics

Threads
506,930
Messages
10,592,839
Members
224,333
Latest member
SalmanBaba
Top