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Review of my 1st MTM shirt (Hemrajani / mytailor.com): fit pics added! - Page 3

post #31 of 64
Single-needle construction?
post #32 of 64
Quote:
Shirt measurements entered online

sleeve length (from shoulder seam): 24.5


Unwashed shirt measurements

sleeve length (from shoulder seam): 24.2

This has been my exact problem with mytailor. The sleeves are always too short, and after any laundering, even cold water and hang dry, the shirt is not very wearable. You have to pad this dimension yourself by about an inch.
post #33 of 64
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewRogers View Post
Single-needle construction?

I believe so, but I'm not really familiar with tailoring terms. Single needle = 1 visible row of stitching along the side seams and double needle = 2 rows of stitching? Iirc, there is only one row of visible stitching at the side seams. Fwiw, that line of stitching (which holds the flap of fabric underneath) is about 3mm from the actual seam where the front and back are joined and sewn together.

Quote:
Originally Posted by unpainted huffheinz View Post
This has been my exact problem with mytailor. The sleeves are always too short, and after any laundering, even cold water and hang dry, the shirt is not very wearable. You have to pad this dimension yourself by about an inch.

It was my understanding that they made the required adjustments to account for shrinking, whether working off your body measurements or those taken off a well fitting shirt (that has obviously been washed and shrunk). They actually cut the sleeves (measured from shoulder seam) shorter than what I had entered (24.2'' vs 24.5''), but gave me more room across the shoulders (18'' vs 17'', resulting in a final unwashed sleeve length of 33.2'' vs my provided figure of 33''. I figure they must know more about shirt construction and shrinking than I do. We'll see how this looks after a couple of washes this weekend.

Since this was my first order, I didn't think it'd be a good idea to pad my shirt measurements myself as it could have resulted in a shirt with twice the shrinking allowance built in.
post #34 of 64
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewRogers View Post
Single-needle construction?
Yessir....definitely single needle tailoring although, I did notice that my shirt does not have the split-back yoke as Wes' does. Maybe they have improved their construction method of shirts since I purchased mine a few years ago. I will say that they have excellent customer service and although I had to send a different shirt with the same collar back to them at least 3 times because of collar bubbling but they always repaired it and sent it back. I haven't had any problems with that shirt anymore and this is 2 years later....This shirt has the original collar and I haven't had any issues with it. As far as shrinkage, I only have 2 shirts from them but I haven't had any sizing issues and the shrinkage was very minimal....shirts still fit well.
post #35 of 64
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JR_Rider View Post
I did notice that my shirt does not have the split-back yoke as Wes' does. Maybe they have improved their construction method of shirts since I purchased mine a few years ago.

I didn't see a split yoke in their online options, so I just asked for it in the Comments box. I was pleased to see they mitered it as well.
post #36 of 64
I ordered a shirt from my tailor recently as well, based on (and somewhat correcting) a shirt I had made by Michael Andrews Bespoke (pre-SF). I've been planning to do a fit comparison thread on them when the shirt comes in. Thanks to CEGO for details on how to take those pictures. Can someone clarify the value of a split yolk and mitering? I was under the impression that a split yolk was a crutch to mask a potential bad fit, so I ordered a plain back. Is there a benefit to split yolk even on a fitted MTM shirt?
post #37 of 64
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by uiriamu View Post
Can someone clarify the value of a split yolk and mitering? I was under the impression that a split yolk was a crutch to mask a potential bad fit, so I ordered a plain back. Is there a benefit to split yolk even on a fitted MTM shirt?

It's my understanding that a split yoke is particularly useful when your right shoulder measurement differs from the left's. I believe mitering allows the shirt to stretch better across the shoulders, resulting in a more comfortable fit, especially important on more fitted shirts. Hoping Carl can confirm if this is true. This is the sort of thing you find when you Google 'mitered yoke' on the interwebz:

Quote:
Many years ago, a small British custom shirtmaker discovered that if he divided the yoke of the shirt into two parts, cutting each part on the bias, the fabric stretched when the shoulders were flexed, creating a remarkably comfortable garment.

In recent years, a number of American shirtmakers have attempted to copy this look. However, almost without exception, they have produced a fake split yoke or have cut the yoke along the straight lines of the fabric, split it at the center and sewn it back together along the same lines. This increases the cost while doing nothing for the comfort of the wearer.
post #38 of 64
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbris1 View Post
I'm a contrast/spread/cutaway collar fan, but only small timers put "vox" in the titles of their threads. He should want to click/post in it off of GP.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wes Bourne View Post
I am definitely not a big timer, nor a small timer. I am a no timer.

Wes, I forgot the
post #39 of 64
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbris1 View Post
Wes, I forgot the

No worries, I know we're tight. Should anything happen to me, my empty shoeboxes will find their way to you.
post #40 of 64
Thread Starter 
Fit pics finally added, see 1st post.
post #41 of 64
Pretty good fit. Nice work. The yoke is uneven (look at how it sits on the tops of your shoulders in the pictures taken head-on). This is a problem I also have with MyTailor shirts. People will tell you the shoulder to shoulder measurement is too long, but it seems ok. When this measurement decreases I tend to get a lot of pulling, and the shirt gets uncomfortable very quickly. But what the f^k to I know.
post #42 of 64
In the first pic the sleeves are down to your thumbs but in the rest of them they stop at your wrists. Was that due to the way you were standing in the first pic? Looks a little baggy in the shoulders and arms. Why is it so long? Did you request it that way?
post #43 of 64
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cornellian View Post
Pretty good fit. Nice work.

The yoke is uneven (look at how it sits on the tops of your shoulders in the pictures taken head-on). This is a problem I also have with MyTailor shirts.

I'm not sure I know what I should be looking for. Fwiw, my shoulders are uneven; could that be it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cornellian View Post
People will tell you the shoulder to shoulder measurement is too long, but it seems ok. When this measurement decreases I tend to get a lot of pulling, and the shirt gets uncomfortable very quickly. But what the f^k to I know.

Same here. Thank you for the comments. While I'm very pleased with how this shirt turned out, there's probably room for improvement. Still, I feel it fits as well as any rtw shirt I've ever owned, if not better. It will be interesting to see what specific areas you guys think require some adjusting.
post #44 of 64
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambo View Post
In the first pic the sleeves are down to your thumbs but in the rest of them they stop at your wrists. Was that due to the way you were standing in the first pic? Looks a little baggy in the shoulders and arms. Why is it so long? Did you request it that way?

First pic = shirt untucked and sleeves unbuttoned, as per Carl's instructions. I prefer long tails on my dress shirts, length is actually close to BB shirts (size 14.5/32). If I'm not mistaken, the length is what mytailor.com recommended when I entered my height and weight; I don't think I adjusted it afterwards. What can I say, I'm a short dude (5'7''). Also, I think there has been a sort of bastardization of rtw dress shirts which has led a lot manufacturers to shorten shirt tails to allow them to be worn untucked as well. There is some room in the shoulders and arms, but they are actually quite trim. I'm not sure I'd like them tighter than that, simply for comfort reasons.
post #45 of 64
It looks decent for a $75 shirt,especially if it is a first shirt. How do you like the fabric? Does anyone have Traditional Spread collar shirts from mytailor.com? I'd like to see pictures.
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