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What wallet do you use? - Page 50

post #736 of 813

 

Mitchell Money Clip Wallet......Horween Chromexel Burgundy.....

post #737 of 813

 

I also have the Horween Dublin in the Roasted Walnut.......7 Cards...Hunting License and Medical Cards.....5 to 6 bills................

I really prefer the Chromexel........as per wearing the thinest.........have no clue.................

post #738 of 813
My "Wallet": Wooden Card Holder

post #739 of 813

Just switched out to a new slim wallet to cut down on the bulk and wear on dressier occasions. Excited to see how this one ages. 

 

post #740 of 813
20160327_153915-1-1.jpg
Natural steerhide Dalee's/Deluxeware, of Japan. It's developed a nice, golden brown patina, darkening with use.

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post #741 of 813

I recently got a wallet from Bellroy, best thing ever! really recommend this. I've had it for a while now and I'm still very very pleased with it.

 

https://www.undscvrd.com/bellroy-note-sleeve-blue.html

post #742 of 813

I'm thinking about switching things up, seeing just how minimial I can go, so knocked these two out but can't decide on the stitch. Any preferences?

 

post #743 of 813
Quote:
Originally Posted by gaseousclay View Post

I should add too that i never carry cash, even though this wallet was designed specifically for that purpose. You have to be careful though when taking cash out of the clip. I once ripped a bill in half because it got stuck

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I can see that happening, especially if your wallet is really loaded with cards. The bulk of the cards near the clip could potentially "hang-up" the cash.

How thick is yours loaded?
post #744 of 813
7f1ffdbe7368e230bc8f2612fcdd92fa.jpg
Dalee's/Deluxeware, of Japan

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post #745 of 813

No No Yes! shosa short wallet: http://www.nonoyes.com/shop/shosa-wallet/short2-green/ one piece of folded leather, with a single fastening.

post #746 of 813

I did a review on a couple of minimalist wallets including why one should never buy Genuine Leather. Hope this helps!

 

post #747 of 813
The idea that "genuine leather" always means of lesser quality is not exactly accurate.
Saddleback uses that term to refer to what's really called (by people who actually tan leather) a "finished split" (as in a suede that has a painted finish on top). PU leather is similar, it's just a thicker plastic-like layer on top. Genuine leather is not really an "industry term" to mean a lesser grade, that usage originates with Saddleback (and sources that quote him). Unfortunately they've (knowingly or not caused some confusion). This is something relatively new.
A little evidence:
You can find amazing vintage pieces made in quality leather proudly stamped "genuine leather." Cheap imports "killed" the word by stamping it on anything that might in some small way once been leather, but that doesn't actually change the meaning of the word Genuine.
I also have some vintage tooling stamps that say "Genuine Leather", those stamps only work on full grain veg-tan leather.

Most of us makers have stopped using the words "Genuine Leather" just because of the above reasons. However, there are still some folks who use the word as it was used originally- to mean "real" there are some guys out there working with English Bridle,Chromexcel, and other full grain leathers who happily still call it Genuine. You should pay attention before ruling anything out, especially if it's made here. The easier way to tell the good from the bad is thickness and the way it's constructed. If you open a card pocket and look inside, do you see nylon or do you see leather? Most imports only have a "band" of leather across the pocket and the pocket itself is completely nylon.
post #748 of 813
Quote:
Originally Posted by nstarleather View Post

The idea that "genuine leather" always means of lesser quality is not exactly accurate.
Saddleback uses that term to refer to what's really called (by people who actually tan leather) a "finished split" (as in a suede that has a painted finish on top). PU leather is similar, it's just a thicker plastic-like layer on top. Genuine leather is not really an "industry term" to mean a lesser grade, that usage originates with Saddleback (and sources that quote him). Unfortunately they've (knowingly or not caused some confusion). This is something relatively new.
A little evidence:
You can find amazing vintage pieces made in quality leather proudly stamped "genuine leather." Cheap imports "killed" the word by stamping it on anything that might in some small way once been leather, but that doesn't actually change the meaning of the word Genuine.
I also have some vintage tooling stamps that say "Genuine Leather", those stamps only work on full grain veg-tan leather.

Most of us makers have stopped using the words "Genuine Leather" just because of the above reasons. However, there are still some folks who use the word as it was used originally- to mean "real" there are some guys out there working with English Bridle,Chromexcel, and other full grain leathers who happily still call it Genuine. You should pay attention before ruling anything out, especially if it's made here. The easier way to tell the good from the bad is thickness and the way it's constructed. If you open a card pocket and look inside, do you see nylon or do you see leather? Most imports only have a "band" of leather across the pocket and the pocket itself is completely nylon.

That's a wealth of information. Thank you for giving me a history lesson.

 

I admit I was being too general by ruling out anything that says "GL" but if this is the norm with most products being mass produced, shouldn't we adjust too? I cut up not only this wallet but a couple of watch bands too. They were similar in their paper cores. 

 

Don't worry, I'll still trust a maker or small shop that's hand tooling their products. I hear that SBL's quality has diminished in recent years so I look forward to supporting makers that keep everything on the up and up.

post #749 of 813
Quote:
Originally Posted by iancmedina View Post
 

 

I admit I was being too general by ruling out anything that says "GL" but if this is the norm with most products being mass produced, shouldn't we adjust too? I cut up not only this wallet but a couple of watch bands too. They were similar in their paper cores. 

 

Don't worry, I'll still trust a maker or small shop that's hand tooling their products. I hear that SBL's quality has diminished in recent years so I look forward to supporting makers that keep everything on the up and up.

I have adjusted what we say on our site, but I think when I started some of our descriptions said Genuine.  One thing you may also have been seeing with the wallets you cut cut up is that lots of imports use a full or top grain goat or sheep skin but use a leather that's incredibly thin and have to stiffen it with cardboard.  It's actually very tough to make a wallet with lots of pockets and keep it from getting too bulky; when you see a wallet with tons of pockets (even zippers sometimes), then it's a pretty good bet that you're getting a very small percentage of actual leather.  A guy came by the shop the other day and showed me a Filson wallet that he'd paid over $100 for.  The first thing I did was look under the cards and sure enough:  tiny strip of leather at the top of each card pocket and nylon interiors. 

   I think SLB makes what seems to be a decent, long lasting product,but you can tell that his real strength is marketing.  Those videos are entertaining but many times in accurate.  

post #750 of 813
Can you guys recommend any good independent wallet maker? I am thinking $250>> for a clean bifold. Thanks in advance smile.gif
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