Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc...

dieselman89 · Dec 15, 2011

Testudo_Aubreii said:
Ok, guys. I hate to dump on AE, but I have some bad news. The new PA and Fifth Street that I have in front of me just came straight from the factory. The sole edges have the stitch running through the top. That's it. No decoration on the top of the edge.
Now look at the AE Byron, discontinued around 2007-8. One at at the top of this thread and another in this photo. Wheeled edges, a la the city shoes of Alden, J&M's Crown Aristocrafts, and the good British makers!
Just took a look at the Fifth Ave's Amazon page. No wheeled edges. Just stitching. Same for Strand, same for McAllister. Same for Cambridge, going from the Zappo's page. But the MacNeil does have them!
So four questions:
1. Other than MacNeil, do any of AE's current regular line (the non-Independence) have wheeled edges?
2. Anybody have a pre-2005 non-Byron non-MacNeil AE with wheeled edges?
3. Did the Byron have wheeled edges right up until the last one made?
4. Paul Grangaard mentioned in the video introducing Independence that most AE used to have wheeled edges. Anybody know when they started phasing them out from the majority of their regular line shoes?

If you just purchased the shoes and they have stitching issues and are indeed First quality shoes, I would call AE immediately. They have fantastic customer service and will most definitely handle this issue.

bucksfan · Dec 15, 2011

Macneil definitely does, as does Leeds and Walton, I believe. The wheeling on the independence collection sure looks like it is done to a higher specification, though!

Testudo_Aubreii · Dec 15, 2011

bucksfan said:
Macneil definitely does, as does Leeds and Walton, I believe. The wheeling on the independence collection sure looks like it is done to a higher specification, though!

Thanks, bucks. Good eye. Looks like some other split-reverse welt shoes have wheeled edges too: Hillcrest, McTavish, maybe the Black Hills. But the Berkshire, which has a rubber sole and what looks like Norwegian construction, does not.

Yeah, there are definitely differences in wheeled edges. Some almost make the shoe look heavier, as with the Leeds. Some make it look more refined, as with the Byron or Alden's straight tip balmoral.

ATLjon · Dec 15, 2011

Anyone here have the Sheltons in oxblood and black? I picked a pair in 9C up yesterday, and I don't know if a) I like them b) what to wear them with. My wife says I should either put taps on them and take up tap dancing or ditch them. http://www.flickr.com/photos/71716117@N07/6513105611/in/set-72157628422609561

I also have a pair of Saxons that need a resole if anyone wants them. Size 7 3E http://www.flickr.com/photos/71716117@N07/sets/72157628340970525/

If you want both, I'd be interested in trading for a pair of black AEs (Byron or Fifth Avenue) in 9-9.5. Actually, any quality dress shoe in that same vein would work.

TauKappaEpsilon · Dec 15, 2011

The Sheltons need to be polished. And wear them casually with jeans and chinos. They'll look great.

ATLjon said:
Anyone here have the Sheltons in oxblood and black? I picked a pair in 9C up yesterday, and I don't know if a) I like them b) what to wear them with. My wife says I should either put taps on them and take up tap dancing or ditch them. http://www.flickr.com/photos/71716117@N07/6513105611/in/set-72157628422609561

I also have a pair of Saxons that need a resole if anyone wants them. Size 7 3E http://www.flickr.com/photos/71716117@N07/sets/72157628340970525/

If you want both, I'd be interested in trading for a pair of black AEs (Byron or Fifth Avenue) in 9-9.5. Actually, any quality dress shoe in that same vein would work.

bucksfan · Dec 15, 2011

^^ or grey flannel slacks, or corduroy...

ATLjon · Dec 15, 2011

Thanks for the advice. It's good to know there are nice, helpful people on this forum.

Rambo · Dec 15, 2011

Got the MacNeil's in today - they're quite large compared to the 5. I'm sending them back and sizing down .5 so see if it makes any difference.

Testudo_Aubreii · Dec 15, 2011

ATLjon said:
Anyone here have the Sheltons in oxblood and black? I picked a pair in 9C up yesterday, and I don't know if a) I like them b) what to wear them with. My wife says I should either put taps on them and take up tap dancing or ditch them. http://www.flickr.com/photos/71716117@N07/6513105611/in/set-72157628422609561

Are those your Sheltons? Any idea when they were made? The soles seem to have wheeled edges. But the Shelton on AE's website does not seem to have wheeled edges. (Neither do your Saxons.) Either way, that Shelton is a nice shoe.

ATLjon · Dec 15, 2011

I got them yesterday at a thrift. I don't think I can keep them, but we'll see.

Testudo_Aubreii said:
Are those your Sheltons? The soles seem to have wheeled edges. But the Shelton on AE's website does not seem to have wheeled edges. Either way, nice shoe.

ATLjon · Dec 15, 2011

Apparently, I can't reply to a post yet.

I got the shoes yesterday at a thrift. I don't think the wife will let me keep them though.

Testudo_Aubreii · Dec 15, 2011

ATLjon said:
Apparently, I can't reply to a post yet.

I got the shoes yesterday at a thrift. I don't think the wife will let me keep them though.

Keep 'em, even if you can't wear 'em much. That shoe is better made than AE's current Shelton. It's a great shoe: try it with dark red or reddish brown corduroys. You can darken the red with polish.

Testudo_Aubreii · Dec 15, 2011

Testudo_Aubreii said:
Ok, guys. I hate to dump on AE, but I have some bad news. The new PA and Fifth Street that I have in front of me just came straight from the factory. The sole edges have the stitch running through the top. That's it. No decoration on the top of the edge.
Now look at the AE Byron, discontinued around 2007-8. One at at the top of this thread and another in this photo. Wheeled edges, a la the city shoes of Alden, J&M's Crown Aristocrafts, and the good British makers!
Just took a look at the Fifth Ave's Amazon page. No wheeled edges. Just stitching. Same for Strand, same for McAllister. Same for Cambridge, going from the Zappo's page. But the MacNeil does have them!
So four questions:
1. Other than MacNeil, do any of AE's current regular line (the non-Independence) have wheeled edges?
2. Anybody have a pre-2005 non-Byron non-MacNeil AE with wheeled edges?
3. Did the Byron have wheeled edges right up until the last one made?
4. Paul Grangaard mentioned in the video introducing Independence that most AE used to have wheeled edges. Anybody know when they started phasing them out from the majority of their regular line shoes?

I guess the answer to 4 is to be found in the AE catalogues, which AE had the courtesy to post here: http://issuu.com/allenedmonds/docs/1970-catalog
Big hat tip to AE for that.
In the linked 1970 catalogue, just look at those wingtips around page 21! 270 welt, not 360 welt! The sculpting! The elegantly wheeled edges! What looks like a spade sole on the Chester on p. 24! The brogueing and pinking are definitely finer than on today's Cambridge or McAllister. Or look at the sharkshin shoes around page 40. Man! Those are superb shoes. AE can do these things: they've got the designs. Why don't we ask them to do it?

ATLjon · Dec 15, 2011

OK, forgive my ignorance. Wheeled edges?

Testudo_Aubreii · Dec 15, 2011

Strand and Cambridge/McAllister fans, check out this 1965 AE catalogue: http://issuu.com/allenedmonds/docs/1965-catalog

A Strand predecessor, the High Street semi-brogue, is on page 10. But with finer pinking and brogueing, a 270 welt, wheeled edges, and a spade sole.

A Cambridge/McAllister predecessor, the Broadstreet full-brogue, is on page 40. Same big brogueing and pinking as the Cambridge. But with 270 welt, wheeled edges, and a spade sole.

A city wingtip, the Chester, is on p. 42. Fine pinking and brogueing, 270 welt, wheeled edges, spade sole.

The piece de resistance is the Austin full-brogue on p. 44. Extremely fine brogueing. Amazingly sleek lines. 270, wheeled, spade. Seven-eyelets! If it lacked the medallion, you'd think it was the C&J Drummond with an almond toe.

These things could go head to head with some of Edward Green's current models. Put a swan's neck detail on the Austin, and it could beat some current EG.

What a history AE has! What a history US shoemaking has!

Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc...

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