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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - Page 242

post #3616 of 49638
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrick_b View Post





I agree with that assessment. On far too many occasions, I've purchased shoes (typically at discount) that I thought would stretch out over time. In almost every case, the shoes were unwearable. I came to the conclusion that shoes MUST fit perfectly out of the box or I won't buy them. Like you, I get pressure on the little toe on one foot. I've been able to make slightly large shoes work with insoles or even thicker socks but never had luck with shoes that were snug in the store. It's cost me more than I'd like to admit over the years.

patrick I've often been in the same situation as a person who has a wide foot. Even on SF people seems to believe that stretching does happen with wear and a little snugness is desired. I sometimes wonder if it's the shoe that stretches after a couple of wears or just the leather getting softer from wear.
post #3617 of 49638
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrick_b View Post





I agree with that assessment. On far too many occasions, I've purchased shoes (typically at discount) that I thought would stretch out over time. In almost every case, the shoes were unwearable. I came to the conclusion that shoes MUST fit perfectly out of the box or I won't buy them. Like you, I get pressure on the little toe on one foot. I've been able to make slightly large shoes work with insoles or even thicker socks but never had luck with shoes that were snug in the store. It's cost me more than I'd like to admit over the years.
Quote:
Originally Posted by acousticfoodie View Post

patrick I've often been in the same situation as a person who has a wide foot. Even on SF people seems to believe that stretching does happen with wear and a little snugness is desired. I sometimes wonder if it's the shoe that stretches after a couple of wears or just the leather getting softer from wear.

+ 1 on both counts. I think most people on SF seem to prefer a snug fit. I might be in the minority, but I'd almost rather have a shoe that is too big than too small. I can't stand having my toes crammed in. You really just have to be ruthless and not keep a shoe because you're in love with the way it looks, not the way it fits.
post #3618 of 49638
Quote:
Originally Posted by tom10167 View Post


Are all AE shoes full-grain leather? What is the difference between calfskin and premium calfskin? It isn't in their glossary.


AE uses very high quality top grain/full grain leather from reputable tanneries. The shell cordovan comes from Horween just like Alden's shell offerings. I'm not sure where you are seeing premium calf vs. standard calf but I know the discontinued Seven line used a much softer feeling calf that seems to feel a lot like the new Independence line. Both of these lines were sold at a premium and had other features that drove the price up like different heel treatments, soft lining and nicer finishing. With that said, AE's leather quality isn't a factor I ever considered lacking in any way on their standard dress shoes.

 

The only models that may use a lower quality leather would be the less expensive, non-welted, non-US made 'ae' line. But even that's just a guess.

post #3619 of 49638

Having never heard of shell cordovan.. I began my search to discover what this talk was about.  During that I came across Horween's blog and found some really cool videos, one of which shows the process of cordovan being made.  http://horween.wordpress.com/

 

So from what I gather cordovan is horse (rump) skin?  I am no animal rights activist, but I am curious how they gather so much horse rump skin?

post #3620 of 49638

I like a snug fit too. But I got too used to cheaper shoes with more give in the heel and toe.  Now I really understand why they say to try on shoes after you've been on your feet for the day.  I want a little bit of room so my feet can swell if needed.  I still need more walking around experience to zero in on the best size though.  I'm learning fast.

post #3621 of 49638
Quote:
Originally Posted by guyfawkes View Post

Having never heard of shell cordovan.. I began my search to discover what this talk was about.  During that I came across Horween's blog and found some really cool videos, one of which shows the process of cordovan being made.  http://horween.wordpress.com/

 

So from what I gather cordovan is horse (rump) skin?  I am no animal rights activist, but I am curious how they gather so much horse rump skin?


It's actually the membrane between the skin and the muscle on the butt of the horse. It comes from the horse meat industry primarily from countries like France where horse meat is still eaten. It used to be eaten quite a lot here in the USA too at one time but has fallen out of fashion.
post #3622 of 49638

Quote:

Originally Posted by guyfawkes View Post

Having never heard of shell cordovan.. I began my search to discover what this talk was about.  During that I came across Horween's blog and found some really cool videos, one of which shows the process of cordovan being made.  http://horween.wordpress.com/

 

So from what I gather cordovan is horse (rump) skin?  I am no animal rights activist, but I am curious how they gather so much horse rump skin?


Don't forget this one:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=He7EpbyzfPE&feature=plcp&context=C4f77a2eVDvjVQa1PpcFM4_ruJn3dlbJi40IMiTaSDjEhj2spTnSE%3D

 

AFIK the horse hides are a byproduct so horses aren't actually slaughtered specifically for their hides. That's one reason shell is rarer and more expensive. In addition to the different tanning process, there is much less raw material from which to make the leather.

 

post #3623 of 49638

Personal factoid, I ate "Steak de Cheval" (horse meat) while in Geneva.  It was good.  But here's the kicker, looking at the menu I saw a small section in the back describing the meat sources.  Lamb ---> New Zealand.  Horse ---> United States.  Hah, I flew half way around the world to eat an American horse!  Anyway, back to shell cordovan  .  .  .

post #3624 of 49638
Do you guys feel like everyman should have a pair of burgundy cordovan shoes kind of the same way everyman should have a pair of black cap toes?
post #3625 of 49638
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrick_b View Post

I agree with that assessment. On far too many occasions, I've purchased shoes (typically at discount) that I thought would stretch out over time. In almost every case, the shoes were unwearable. I came to the conclusion that shoes MUST fit perfectly out of the box or I won't buy them. Like you, I get pressure on the little toe on one foot. I've been able to make slightly large shoes work with insoles or even thicker socks but never had luck with shoes that were snug in the store. It's cost me more than I'd like to admit over the years.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by PhiPsi32 View Post

Eh, if I may chime in on the shoe stretching/sizing discussion.  I don't see AEs stretching very much and not right away.  I settled on an 11C in the #5 last which fits well all around.  Of course, after a full day in the shoes they got a little cramped in the toe.  I figured it just needed a little stretch.  Nope.  The leather is very resilient, part of what makes it a great long term use shoe.  I would not tell you to go with it and let the shoe stretch.

 

I, instead, experimented with the 11.5B & 11.5C.  The 11.5B was better but still encroached on my little toe.  The 11.5C gives me a little bit of space in the toe without the heavy instep creasing I saw in the 11D.  The heel loosened but with minimal slip.  After adding arch supports, the heel is snug, and my foot fills out some of the extra girth/volume.  I'll have to abuse these for a few wears to see if they are actually more comfortable.  I would have to buy shoes at Nordstrom for the rest of my life if I wanted to compensate them for the numerous exchanges I've made.  I can't say enough about their interminable patience.


Over the course of a year and a half I had a bunion develop and surgically removed twice on my left foot at the base of my little toe. Finally narrowed it down to my shell Leeds and cobbler leather Shelton. They hardly touched my foot in that area but it was apparently enough to cause issues. In daily wear I could not even tell they touched that area until a bunion grew, then I certainly noticed it. None of my other AE shoes, at the time all on the #1 last, seemed to effect it. Ended up getting a shoe stretcher with bunion attachment and was able to successfully spot stretch both shoes so that there is now no pressure at all in that area. Those 2 leathers are different from normal calfskin and I suspect they have little to no give. I would not even consider stretching any shoe in full width or length to make it fit. Or assume that my foot is going to stretch the leather, the leather is going to win that battle and the foot can pay a painful price. AE suggested I try width stretching the Malvern to make it fit but I ended up returning them instead, to me it really wasn't an option no matter how much I wanted them. 

 

post #3626 of 49638
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cold Iron View Post

 


Over the course of a year and a half I had a bunion develop and surgically removed twice on my left foot at the base of my little toe. Finally narrowed it down to my shell Leeds and cobbler leather Shelton. They hardly touched my foot in that area but it was apparently enough to cause issues. In daily wear I could not even tell they touched that area until a bunion grew, then I certainly noticed it. None of my other AE shoes, at the time all on the #1 last, seemed to effect it. Ended up getting a shoe stretcher with bunion attachment and was able to successfully spot stretch both shoes so that there is now no pressure at all in that area. Those 2 leathers are different from normal calfskin and I suspect they have little to no give. I would not even consider stretching any shoe in full width or length to make it fit. Or assume that my foot is going to stretch the leather, the leather is going to win that battle and the foot can pay a painful price. AE suggested I try width stretching the Malvern to make it fit but I ended up returning them instead, to me it really wasn't an option no matter how much I wanted them. 

 


That's really good info to have. I had no idea how bunions formed but it emphasizes the importance of proper foot not just for comfort but for your foot health.

 

post #3627 of 49638
Quote:
Originally Posted by elbastardocalvo View Post

Just got the this from the Freeport store:


MacNeil               9097       burgundy cordovan
MacNeil               9177       black cordovan
Bradley                 2291       burgundy shell cordovan
Grayson               8287       burgundy cordovan
Westchester      1697       burgundy cordovan 
Kenwood            44006    burgundy cordovan
Randolph             4899       black cordovan
Cambridge          8605       black cordovan

These are the styles in FQ  that are $399.00.

Nevermind. Finally figuerd out what FQ stands for. Does anyone know which seconds are $299?

This is first quality at AE outlets though or at their retail stores? I didn't think that AE outlets sold first quality.
post #3628 of 49638
Has anyone confirmed if firsts are on sale? I tried a couple stores and they didn't have any walnut cordovan strands in stock or on sale. Are they still custom made from the website?
post #3629 of 49638
Quote:
Originally Posted by Winston S. View Post


Nevermind. Finally figuerd out what FQ stands for. Does anyone know which seconds are $299?
This is first quality at AE outlets though or at their retail stores? I didn't think that AE outlets sold first quality.


$299 is for seconds, and right now they seem to have very limited stock. 

 

post #3630 of 49638
Quote:
Originally Posted by guyfawkes View Post

Having never heard of shell cordovan.. I began my search to discover what this talk was about.  During that I came across Horween's blog and found some really cool videos, one of which shows the process of cordovan being made.  http://horween.wordpress.com/

So from what I gather cordovan is horse (rump) skin?  I am no animal rights activist, but I am curious how they gather so much horse rump skin?

Also, consider that shell is very expensive because there is such a small supply of it (relative to calf skin).
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