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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - Page 2342

post #35116 of 48438
I think we can use the $35 gift card for full priced firsts only....but please let us know if I'm mistaken. That card is burning a hole in my wallet
Edited by Subutai - 12/13/13 at 7:57am
post #35117 of 48438
^^ Hmmm. I'm sure it says it on the card...take a look, Tampa!
post #35118 of 48438
guys i have a pair of watson with the size completely worn off the sides. is there any possible way to ID the size of these things?
post #35119 of 48438
facepalm.gif
post #35120 of 48438
Quote:
Originally Posted by Subutai View Post

I think we can use the $35 gift card for full priced firsts only....but please let us know if I'm mistaken. That card is burning a hole in my wallet

I have used one on clearance shoes and sale shoes before.

post #35121 of 48438
Quote:
Originally Posted by polojock615 View Post

I have used one on clearance shoes and sale shoes before.
I tried using them on a pair of Fifth Streets when they were on clearance and the manager did not let me. I think it's YMMV. I think the card actually has exclusions printed on it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GooseG View Post

Any thoughts on fit between the calf vs shell models?
My shell models fit looser than my calf ones.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerP View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by kentyman View Post

 

Maybe not ideal, but better then going up in width and having a heel that slips. Up a width may work better for him, but without knowing for sure, I think this is fine.

 



I can't say what would or would not be better than the present case. It could be that this last simply does not work for his foot shape. This is the reason there are so many different lasts in the first place - they are designed to fit very different feet. Some will work better than others, and some not at all for any particular customer.

But to my eye, those shoes simply do not fit. Fit is only functionally accomodated here by the w-i-d-e spread of the laces. That is simply not how an oxford fits, any more than a monk strap closed only by strained buckling at the very last hole in the strap could be said to fit. They may indeed feel like they fit with your eyes closed, but opening your eyes will tell you in an instant that something is substantially off.

I am not an expert in fit - not by any stretch. But I have been fitted by experts - Dean Girling of G&G and Philip Carr of St. Crispin's. If I tried on one of their oxfords and had the laces splayed as far open as that, there is simply no way they would pronounce it to be good enough. In fact, at a recent fitting of a pair St. Crispin's, less of an opening than that was deeemed a poor fit requiring a combination of increased width / higher instep allowance / lower internal arch support.

To my mind, proper fit is not the sole province of high end RTW, much less bespoke. It should be the most important purchase criterion at any price point. Others, of course, are free to take a different view.
I disagree with wanting the quarters completely closed on oxford shoes. If they close completely when new they are eventually going to be too loose when the leather stretches and/or when the cork compresses, assuming that the shoes have cork. I have read that some handmade shoes do not. If you don't expect the leather to stretch and there is no cork then by all means go ahead and buy them if they fit well with the quarters completely closed.
post #35122 of 48438
With my McAllisters and Strands being my first AE shoes, I'm not entirely educated about the recrafting. Additionally they are my first "real" shoes- I've never had leather soles or anything else AE does for that matter. I know about rotating them, but how do I know when they are due for recrafting? I've tried searching google but can't find a good answer. Do I tell by the thickness of the sole or is it just a time based thing?
Thanks again. All of you have been more than helpful with my naïvité.
post #35123 of 48438
Quote:
Originally Posted by SidewinderX View Post

Ended up ordering a pair of blue neumoks from the second's sale!

Can you please post a pic of those when you receive them. I'm thinking of getting a pair of those, but the reviews on the AE site say they look black as opposed to navy.

Thanks
post #35124 of 48438

Per a prior request, attached are pictures of the suede strands I'm probably returning and a pair of Carminas on one of their more elongated lasts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #35125 of 48438
Quote:
Originally Posted by optopi314 View Post

With my McAllisters and Strands being my first AE shoes, I'm not entirely educated about the recrafting. Additionally they are my first "real" shoes- I've never had leather soles or anything else AE does for that matter. I know about rotating them, but how do I know when they are due for recrafting? I've tried searching google but can't find a good answer. Do I tell by the thickness of the sole or is it just a time based thing?
Thanks again. All of you have been more than helpful with my naïvité.

Its time to recraft when you wear through the soles and can see the cork!
post #35126 of 48438
Just bought a pair of grey Banchory from the Shoebank. Can't wait for its arrival. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #35127 of 48438
Quote:
Originally Posted by optopi314 View Post

With my McAllisters and Strands being my first AE shoes, I'm not entirely educated about the recrafting. Additionally they are my first "real" shoes- I've never had leather soles or anything else AE does for that matter. I know about rotating them, but how do I know when they are due for recrafting? I've tried searching google but can't find a good answer. Do I tell by the thickness of the sole or is it just a time based thing?
Thanks again. All of you have been more than helpful with my naïvité.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Subutai View Post


Its time to recraft when you wear through the soles and can see the cork!

 

Pretty much... give or take.  The more conservative types will send them in when they are very soft and spongy feeling in the center, indicating that they are about to wear through.  The more liberal types will wait until they have a visible hole, sometimes dime sized or larger.  The high-end manufacturers tend to recommend sending them in using the sponginess indicator.  AE and the more economical brands will typically show visible holes with cork showing in their photos.

 

Personally, I monitor my shoes very carefully as they begin to turn spongy, and I immediately quit wearing them the day that I spot a hole (which usually means it's pin sized).  The longer you wear them after they reach that point, the greater your risk of insole/inseam damage, which is irreversible on any Goodyear-welted shoe manufactured by a company that won't replace the insole (which AE won't).  Inseam damage results from the canvas gemming being damaged by dirt/water that gets under the sole.  AE probably does some light or spot repair to the canvas if needed, but I sort of doubt that they will replace it entirely in the event of major failure like some companies will.  Once your shoes reach the spongy stage, I would try to be much more careful about wearing them in wet weather.

post #35128 of 48438
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoneyWellSpent View Post
 

 

 

 

Pretty much... give or take.  The more conservative types will send them in when they are very soft and spongy feeling in the center, indicating that they are about to wear through.  The more liberal types will wait until they have a visible hole, sometimes dime sized or larger.  The high-end manufacturers tend to recommend sending them in using the sponginess indicator.  AE and the more economical brands will typically show visible holes with cork showing in their photos.

 

Personally, I monitor my shoes very carefully as they begin to turn spongy, and I immediately quit wearing them the day that I spot a hole (which usually means it's pin sized).  The longer you wear them after they reach that point, the greater your risk of insole/inseam damage, which is irreversible on any Goodyear-welted shoe manufactured by a company that won't replace the insole (which AE won't).  Inseam damage results from the canvas gemming being damaged by dirt/water that gets under the sole.  AE probably does some light or spot repair to the canvas if needed, but I sort of doubt that they will replace it entirely in the event of major failure like some companies will.  Once your shoes reach the spongy stage, I would try to be much more careful about wearing them in wet weather.

Thank you very much! Just what I was looking for in terms of advice!

post #35129 of 48438
Hmm.....I think I'm getting closer to pulling the trigger on some shell Park Aves. Sadly, I doubt that anyone stocks multiple models to try!

Conensus seems to be to go down in length, and in most times up in width. However, the shell models may fit looser than calf. I doubt it's a size width's bigger though, so I think I'll go 8.5E (TTS 9D)
post #35130 of 48438
Quote:
Originally Posted by optopi314 View Post

With my McAllisters and Strands being my first AE shoes, I'm not entirely educated about the recrafting. Additionally they are my first "real" shoes- I've never had leather soles or anything else AE does for that matter. I know about rotating them, but how do I know when they are due for recrafting? I've tried searching google but can't find a good answer. Do I tell by the thickness of the sole or is it just a time based thing?
Thanks again. All of you have been more than helpful with my naïvité.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Subutai View Post


Its time to recraft when you wear through the soles and can see the cork!

I would not wait until there is a hole in the sole.

I think the rule of thumb is when there is a soft spot on the sole, and before it has broken through to the midsole or cork.

If you wait too long, you can cause more harm than good.

just my $0.02

 

Apparently I didn't see MWS's post.

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