I don't try to get a high shine usually, except on my black park aves. When I do go for a high shine, I use kiwi black polish and spit shine the toe.
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- brandAllen Edmondstagged by SYSTEM, 7/18/11
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- itemAllen Edmonds Men's Wilbert Lace-Uptagged by SYSTEM, 7/18/11
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- categoryFootweartagged by SYSTEM, 7/18/11
- topicShell Cordovantagged by StyleforumRobot, 11/3/14
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I wore mine this weekend and realized how disappointingly dull they are. Tonight or later this week I'm going to try to spend a lot of time stripping the factory finishing to see if I can't get down to the shell. I don't have Saphir Reno'Mat, but I'm going to try to git it down with AE Conditioner/Cleaner if possible.
Don't use conditioner/cleaner as that is intended for calfskin. All you need to do is invest the time applying a couple coats of Renovateur to get most of the factory polish off and then regularly wiping them down with a damp rag and brushing them. Once you get down to the bare shell, you can enjoy the modest glow you will get as is, apply Saphir neutral cordovan creme or apply a little paste wax.
Amazon sells first quality shoes, but what you get is a mixed bag. It's not unusual to get shoes with defects and/or creases suggesting someone has them worn around their house for a few days. Amazon is great with free returns, but the problem is that, by the time you have decided you need to order another pair, the sale price is frequently over or your size is sold out. I think someone previously commented that he orders two pairs when he orders from Amazon to deal with this issue.
I'm glad you didn't take that personally. You certainly have an awesome collection of shell cordovan shoes (and non-shell)! I shouldn't have taken your post as one solely directed at me. Good day my friend...
There is no difference in structural integrity between different types of welts used in Goodyear-welted shoes. They are all attached at the inseam in the same manner. Split-reverse welts are sometimes touted as being a bit more weather resistant. However, all they really add is a few millimeters of additional height that may help prevent some water entry when walking on wet surfaces (which can be valuable). A true storm welt does butt up more tightly against the leather upper, creating a better seal than a split-reverse welt, but even it is only providing a marginal amount of additional weather resistance.
To really increase weather resistance (supposedly), you have to move beyond Goodyear-welted shoes into Norwegian-welted (also called Goiser), Veldtschoen, or Bentivegna constructed shoes. These are still welted shoes, and are every bit as durable as Goodyear-welted shoes, but they use some different methods for how the uppers are wrapped, where the stitching is placed (additional rows of waxed stitching), etc. Sorry the image below is in Japanese, but it's one of the better diagrams. The names are in English, if you care to research them further, and you can click on them for a larger view. There are a couple of other methods diagrammed in the below pictures that don't fit into the "more weather resistant" discussion (stitch-down, Norvegese, and regular Norwegian (non-Norwegian-welted)).
I have their brush, which is ok (I better like Collonil Crepe Brush, if you can find it). Fwiw, I believe most if not all AE shoecare stuff is made by Collonil. I also scored a Tarrago Suede Protector on ebay for 9.99 shipped (the same Leffot sells for $17). It's a pretty cool stuff; check out the video of youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PnOw_sNVG0A
Other than that, I don't think you will need anything else.
Sandersons arrived this morning and look spectacular. I am a bit surprised at their narrowness, however. Another thread indicated that these are made on a 222 (which seems right, as they appear identical to the Williams apart from the Independence frills). Sorry if this has been addressed elsewhere, but has anyone sized up on this last (vis-à-vis the 65 in particular)?
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