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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - Page 204

post #3046 of 53184
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cold Iron View Post


Thinking this bowing issue through it has to be a measurable metric. As I have several pairs of shoes on the 1-511 last and only my new Bradley’s have the issue but on the same last I came up with a repeatable measurement. I tied the top eyelets together and then measured the width of the topline at the widest point and same location on all the shoes.

350x197px-LL-73307cf2_ShoeThroatMeasure.jpeg

Tenths of an inch should suffice for statistic significance in this case. I spread the jaws of the calipers until I could just see the tension on the laces at the top eyelets. Results were extremely consistent on my AE shoes purchased in the past based on the #1 last:

Leeds shell….…….2.4”
Leeds calf……...…2.4”
Shelton……………2.4”  
Wilbert brown….…2.4”
Wilbert black...…..2.4”

But the Bradley measures a huge 3.1” across the collar. It is excess material that is causing the bowing, plain and simple. I was surprised the Shelton being a balmoral measured the same as the others which are bluchers. But they are all very consistent, except for the Bradley which bows.

I’m planning on going to the AE store tomorrow to pick up 5th Street boots that they ordered in for me. I have never been to an AE store and want to look at the Strands however need to try the fit on the 5 last before purchasing them. Wonder if I shouldn’t just take the calipers with me and measure before I put them on my feet. Bet I can predict if they are going to bow or not.

Good thinking on this! icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #3047 of 53184
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cold Iron View Post


Thinking this bowing issue through it has to be a measurable metric. As I have several pairs of shoes on the 1-511 last and only my new Bradley’s have the issue but on the same last I came up with a repeatable measurement. I tied the top eyelets together and then measured the width of the topline at the widest point and same location on all the shoes.

350x197px-LL-73307cf2_ShoeThroatMeasure.jpeg

Tenths of an inch should suffice for statistic significance in this case. I spread the jaws of the calipers until I could just see the tension on the laces at the top eyelets. Results were extremely consistent on my AE shoes purchased in the past based on the #1 last:

Leeds shell….…….2.4”
Leeds calf……...…2.4”
Shelton……………2.4”  
Wilbert brown….…2.4”
Wilbert black...…..2.4”

But the Bradley measures a huge 3.1” across the collar. It is excess material that is causing the bowing, plain and simple. I was surprised the Shelton being a balmoral measured the same as the others which are bluchers. But they are all very consistent, except for the Bradley which bows.

I’m planning on going to the AE store tomorrow to pick up 5th Street boots that they ordered in for me. I have never been to an AE store and want to look at the Strands however need to try the fit on the 5 last before purchasing them. Wonder if I shouldn’t just take the calipers with me and measure before I put them on my feet. Bet I can predict if they are going to bow or not.

Great post, thank you for taking the time. It's been clear to me that this is an issue with the way the shoes are lasted. Now it appears to be indisputable that this has nothing to do with your feet (which was laughable since it seems to happen with AE about 1000 times more frequently than any other maker).
post #3048 of 53184
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post



Curious to hear why you think this.  I'm currently struggling with whether my next pair of captoes to wear with suits should have a more chiseled toe like the AE 3 last or more like the Brooks Brothers Peale captoe http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchant_Id=1&Section_Id=523&Product_Id=728929&Parent_Id=522&default_color=Dark-brown&sort_by=newArrivals&sectioncolor=&sectionsize=#null 

 

To be honest I think its that the toe cap could use a bit of elongation. The chisel toe looks a bit wide, almost square toed with the short toe cap, seen here:

allenedmonds_shoes_rutledge_walnut_top_l.jpg

I just don't think it has the same elegance as say the C&J hallam.
post #3049 of 53184
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quadcammer View Post

To be honest I think its that the toe cap could use a bit of elongation. The chisel toe looks a bit wide, almost square toed with the short toe cap, seen here:
allenedmonds_shoes_rutledge_walnut_top_l.jpg
I just don't think it has the same elegance as say the C&J hallam.

The first thing I noticed about it was that they seem to have not darkened the leather where the laces tie. It causes an odd two tone effect.
post #3050 of 53184
Cold Iron brings this up a lot about AAFES (Military Exchange) but as a special heads up for active and retired military, for today only they are having a special code that gives you $29 off of every $100 spent. I just picked up the walnut strands at an amazing price. I might call and have the Park Aves. added to my order. It is a one time use code per eligible sponsor.
post #3051 of 53184

Cold Iron, I didn't break out the calipers, but I surmised the same thing.  It's like squeezing the middle of a plastic cup.  The more you squeeze, the more distorted the mouth becomes.  Likewise, the more you tighten the laces, the more the mouth of shoe distorts.

post #3052 of 53184
I've noticed that if I fold my toes under my feet and raise my arches, thus filling the shoe more completely, these bulges go away. Not sure what this means or if anybody has noticed...
post #3053 of 53184
Quote:
Originally Posted by easy_golfing View Post

I've noticed that if I fold my toes under my feet and raise my arches, thus filling the shoe more completely, these bulges go away. Not sure what this means or if anybody has noticed...


That's really funny...I tried the same and had the same result...

 

So is it the shoes or the foot?

 

Like Mars Blackmon says: "It's gotta be da shoes"  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zezwd8mNOnE

 

post #3054 of 53184

Either one, it's a function of foot volume vs. shoe girth.  The bigger the difference between your foot and the shoe, the bigger the gap.

post #3055 of 53184
pretty cool

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Allen-Edmonds-6275-Size-10-Vintage-Men-s-Burgundy-Mcallister-FAST-FREE-SHIPPING-/320855349175?pt=US_Men_s_Shoes&hash=item4ab47817b7
post #3056 of 53184
Is that corrected grain?
post #3057 of 53184
I'd tend to doubt it, but could be
post #3058 of 53184
Quote:
Originally Posted by Christian B View Post

Is that corrected grain?


Model 6275 in the 1985 catalog shows up as Polished Cobbler, aka corrected grain.

post #3059 of 53184

Two AE questions. I'm sure you guys can help me out. I'm buying my first pair of quality shoes, and need some help.

 

First, about fit. The footbed on all AEs I've tried on has gone up right where my big toe is. The rest of the shoe feels great, but right at my big toe (big toe only), there is an upswing that is a little uncomfortable (but tolerable). Is that something that will go down as the shoe is broken in? Should I keep looking?

 

Second, I ordered these Weybridge in walnut. The leather has some streaking. It's not very noticeable, but is that normal? I'm assuming it will become less noticeable with wear and polishing, but I didn't know if it's something to make a big deal out of (and return the shoes). Any advice? Picture in spoiler.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Photo1(1).jpg

 

 

post #3060 of 53184
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quadcammer View Post

Not sure that last is very elegant and the rippling of the leather at the ankle looks odd. Like the color though

How is the last not elegant? Shoe me an elegant last then...
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