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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - Page 1189

post #17821 of 49435
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Haines View Post


Sorry you don't like my post but not all seconds are they same and with a hole punched through the leather I thought be a concern for structural damage . Being s even at seconds are still over 300. So you think the hold punched through is ok down the road is all I am asking. I agree not very noticeable now. I did say they where seconds and not expecting perfection

 

I don't expect that a flaw of that variety would increase much over time. If the blemish doesn't bother you, I'd say polish them up and keep them. If it's around the side and wrapping down towards the bottom of the shoe, I doubt anyone would notice. Even if they did, I don't think it would create much of an impression, positive or negative. Maybe, you could take a picture that captures more of the shoe to get more input.

post #17822 of 49435
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoneyWellSpent View Post


Fashion Fan, it sounds like you may benefit from spending a few hours watching a few videos and reading some articles.  Here are some great ones that'll get you going on a good shoe education.

http://vimeo.com/11075261  (Video on basic intro to high end shoes and why they are better)

http://vimeo.com/4814754  (Video on Horween Shell Cordovan, and why using better leather is crucial to better shoes) This video is only on Shell Cordovan, but good quality calfskin is discussed in many of the articles below.  Fashion forward brands don't necessarily use the best leather available.  Some of the Italian or other fashion forward shoes do use great leather, but the fashion and/or construction of the shoe still means that they are destined for the back of the closet or the trash can sooner rather than later. 

Here are some great threads/articles that are worth reading:

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?111134-Goodyear-Welt-vs-adhesive-construction

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?99507-what-makes-a-good-shoe-and-why-do-they-cost-so-much

http://thesilentist.com/post/4402751782/why-are-quality-mens-dress-shoes-so-expensive

http://ask.metafilter.com/143740/Difference-between-100-mens-dress-shoes-and-500-mens-dress-shoes

http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/search?q=shoe+construction

http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/2010/02/what-makes-shoe-its-price.html

http://the-last-shall-be-first.blogspot.com/search?q=goodyear+welt

http://putthison.com/post/308306580/leather-a-cautionary-tale-ive-been-thinking

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?49981-RTW-Shoemakers&highlight=Cusey

Those will be enough to get you started and will keep you busy for quite a while, but they are well worth studying! 

Quoted for future reference; this is very good information.
post #17823 of 49435
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSizzle View Post

Well, my new bourbon McAllisters came in today, and they look great!

(I took two pictures to try to capture the color correctly.)








10/10 ! Beautiful color !
post #17824 of 49435
Quote:
Originally Posted by facet View Post


Quoted for future reference; this is very good information.

 

Those are simply threads and articles relating to why better shoes are better.  With a few exceptions, their primary purpose isn't to go into each "respected" shoe construction and brand in great detail (Goodyear-welt, Blake-rapid stitch, Norwegian welt, Hand-welt, etc.)  They are really just aimed at helping someone understand why cemented shoes with cheap leather (most of the shoes found in department stores) are a losing game in the long run. 

 

Once people become convinced that they want "better" shoes, and they understand that they are getting what they pay for by investing more, there is a treasure trove of articles and videos that can educate one on the different construction methods and why some are better than others. Also, nearly every manufacturer of high end shoes has a production video that helps show the differences between brands.  Also, articles and write-ups can be found of dissections of many of the high-end brands of shoes, where people have carefully broken them down piece by piece to shoe the "guts" of the shoes and why some brands are better than others in ways you can't see on the outside.  For many there really isn't much difference (except for price biggrin.gif).  It's fun to gain a deeper understanding of what is different between each of the "respected" shoe brands.  It also makes it easy to determine what you are or aren't willing to pay extra for, what is just cosmetic, and fluff. 

post #17825 of 49435
I got a factory second brooks brothers AE strand a few ago, but I am having difficulty with the fit. I am a 9.5D in the normal AE Strand, but the BB version has a squishy, foam insole (made out of a material called poron I think) that raises my foot ever so slightly, especially the top of my arch.  This makes it difficult to tightly tie the shoe. Even when I tightly tie the shoe, my heel slips when I walk. I simply think my foot needs to sit slightly "lower" in the shoe, as it does with the basic insole in the normal AE strand. 
 
Thus, I am wondering if the poron insole can be removed, or replaced with a normal AE cork footbed. I looked underneath the BB footbed and I can see the 1/4" of foam, but it appears to be glued down. Does anyone have experience with removing/replacing this poron insole? Thanks!
post #17826 of 49435
Quote:
Originally Posted by AT83 View Post

I have been looking for a new pair of boots to replace my old hikers.  They will be in town casual boots 355 days per year and may or may not spend those other days on light hikes on trails.  My feet are slightly wide up front, slightly narrow in the back and have a low rise in the instep.  My left is measured at 10.5D and the right 10D.  I ordered 10D bayfields from Lands End.  The right feels pretty comfortable but the left is a bit snug.  Looking at the lacing on brand new boots are these going to ease to a poor fit??

I have the CXL and black calf Bayfields in size 10D. And my feet are almost identical to yours with the exception that when I bought mine my left foot still measured a 10D but after my arch collapsed a year and a half ago it now measures a 10.5D also. And has no arch obviously, I have to wear black superfeet inserts with all my shoes and boots. When I first purchased them I could wear medium weight wool hiking socks. Now I can only wear lightweight wool socks with them. Fine for the black calf and wearing to work but it limits my use for the CXL when being outside in the winter for extended periods of time. But that would depend on where you live. They stretch a little but not much. With the narrow heel it is a catch 22. If you go up to an E width or 10.5 the heel can be too wide. Might be worth trying a 10.5 however. And I would recommend getting a second pair of boots to rotate instead of wearing the same pair 365, they will last much longer. The Bayfield is a great boot for what you describe the intended use is for. CXL doesn't handle really rough use very well, no matter who makes the boot. But it will clean up fine with a little work.

1000

 

After saddle soap, reno and HDLP.

1000

post #17827 of 49435
What is everybody's thoughts on the new Webgem Hollywoods? I like them and I do not have a plain toe blucher in the collection right now.

Chris
post #17828 of 49435
Quote:
Originally Posted by hohneokc View Post

What is everybody's thoughts on the new Webgem Hollywoods? I like them and I do not have a plain toe blucher in the collection right now.

Chris

 

I like the red ones the best.  I think they're pretty sharp.

post #17829 of 49435
Quote:
Originally Posted by hohneokc View Post

What is everybody's thoughts on the new Webgem Hollywoods? I like them and I do not have a plain toe blucher in the collection right now.

Chris

Personally, I would rather buy a brown or bourbon kenilworth with an extra set of laces. I don't like the idea of being locked down into a dress-style blucher with a colored lining and sole...

post #17830 of 49435
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cold Iron View Post

I have the CXL and black calf Bayfields in size 10D. And my feet are almost identical to yours with the exception that when I bought mine my left foot still measured a 10D but after my arch collapsed a year and a half ago it now measures a 10.5D also. And has no arch obviously, I have to wear black superfeet inserts with all my shoes and boots. When I first purchased them I could wear medium weight wool hiking socks. Now I can only wear lightweight wool socks with them. Fine for the black calf and wearing to work but it limits my use for the CXL when being outside in the winter for extended periods of time. But that would depend on where you live. They stretch a little but not much. With the narrow heel it is a catch 22. If you go up to an E width or 10.5 the heel can be too wide. Might be worth trying a 10.5 however. And I would recommend getting a second pair of boots to rotate instead of wearing the same pair 365, they will last much longer. The Bayfield is a great boot for what you describe the intended use is for. CXL doesn't handle really rough use very well, no matter who makes the boot. But it will clean up fine with a little work.

1000

 

After saddle soap, reno and HDLP.

1000

Thanks Cold Iron and sqroot, hearing that the fit in front looks okay and seeing them having been used as i intend helps a lot.  I worry just a little bit that I might be harder on them than they can handle on those 10 days a year where they are not in town.  

 

I travel for work 4 days a week and wouldn't be taking these, so maybe saying 365 is a little overboard.  I will wear them for 2-3 days and then rest them for 3-4 days opposite the boots/shoes I wear at work.  

 

I spent about 4 hours in them last night after 13 hours at work so my feet were likely as big as they get.  This morning I've had them on (again inside as they may still go back) about another 3 hours with the thickest socks that I would ever wear with them.  They are feeling pretty good up front.  I still have just a bit or room around my heel and I've noted that they do not curve in towards the achilles as much as a pair of Whites Semi Dress would.  Cold Iron's side profile shows a collapse/sharp fold in that area.  Do you find this uncomfortable??  

 

I'm also wondering about the collapsing arch thing.  My Father is much larger than I am and I think his arches collapsed as well. His shoe size has increased 2 sizes maybe since I was a kid.  These boots don't seem to particularly fill the area of my arch, would the black superfeet fix this and provide a better fit at the heel or would it just move my foot up higher in the back making the heel not fit in the heel cup as well.  Maybe a Danner Airthotic instead of the superfeet?

post #17831 of 49435
Quote:
Originally Posted by f1fan View Post

I got a factory second brooks brothers AE strand a few ago, but I am having difficulty with the fit. I am a 9.5D in the normal AE Strand, but the BB version has a squishy, foam insole (made out of a material called poron I think) that raises my foot ever so slightly, especially the top of my arch.  This makes it difficult to tightly tie the shoe. Even when I tightly tie the shoe, my heel slips when I walk. I simply think my foot needs to sit slightly "lower" in the shoe, as it does with the basic insole in the normal AE strand. 
 
Thus, I am wondering if the poron insole can be removed, or replaced with a normal AE cork footbed. I looked underneath the BB footbed and I can see the 1/4" of foam, but it appears to be glued down. Does anyone have experience with removing/replacing this poron insole? Thanks!

 

Those are not designed to be removed.  Theoretically you could get the Poron layer out, because it is just a thin piece of foam wrapped in a thin piece of leather.  Underneath it is a fiberboard insole that was used as the foundation of the shoe (instead of the leather insole that you see on traditional AE's).  If you rip out the Poron, you will be exposing the fiberboard insole, with nothing to cover it.  You would have to put something else in the shoe to replace the Poron, and it will almost certainly not be any thinner, so the shoes won't fit better.  Under the fiberboard insole is the cork.  That part isn't any different than any other Goodyear-welted shoes.  The only difference is the insole itself.  Messing with the insole of a Goodyear-welted shoe is playing with fire.  It is the foundation that the entire shoe is built around and ultimately stitched to, so messing with it is the same as removing bricks from the foundation of a house.  It will eventually cause the structure to fail. 

post #17832 of 49435
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoneyWellSpent View Post

 

Those are not designed to be removed.  Theoretically you could get the Poron layer out, because it is just a thin piece of foam wrapped in a thin piece of leather.  Underneath it is a fiberboard insole that was used as the foundation of the shoe (instead of the leather insole that you see on traditional AE's).  If you rip out the Poron, you will be exposing the fiberboard insole, with nothing to cover it.  You would have to put something else in the shoe to replace the Poron, and it will almost certainly not be any thinner, so the shoes won't fit better.  Under the fiberboard insole is the cork.  That part isn't any different than any other Goodyear-welted shoes.  The only difference is the insole itself.  Messing with the insole of a Goodyear-welted shoe is playing with fire.  It is the foundation that the entire shoe is built around and ultimately stitched to, so messing with it is the same as removing bricks from the foundation of a house.  It will eventually cause the structure to fail. 

 

MWS is correct. AE doesn't even replace the insole when they recraft because it's such a major structural component of a Goodyear-welted shoe.

 

Now, regarding the fit, I've also noticed that my foot sits a little higher in BB models, especially the ones with the bubble-like pad in the heel, but I have yet to have a poor enough fit to rise out of the shoe. If the shoes don't feel right, in the futurs, don't buy them, but tearing the insole out of one of these shoes is unlikely to come out cleanly. Complete replacements could alter the shape and integrity of the construction.

post #17833 of 49435

I too commend AE for trying to branch out into more eccentric offerings, but I also agree that there actually is a pretty noticeable tradeoff in order to fund these forays.  They've increased the price of traditional leather offerings by $10.  Not a big deal, but $10 on each style adds up.  This no doubt was done to procure funding for these new wild and wacky designs.  Additionally, they've been extremely stingy on shell and suede production.  I presume because these leathers have a slightly more unique production process, thus requiring a deviation from more traditional leather processes, and requiring a greater allocation of resources as compared the more easily "mass" produced leathers. I dont know, but I really do just get the feeling that they are sacrificing on some fronts to make room for these new creations, and thereby neglecting portions of the tried and true in the process


Edited by harlequin782 - 3/23/13 at 11:56am
post #17834 of 49435
Quote:
Originally Posted by harlequin782 View Post

I too commend AE for trying to branch out into more eccentric offerings, but I also agree that there actually is a pretty noticeable tradeoff in order to fund these forays.  They've increased the price of traditional leather offerings by $10.  Not a big deal, but $10 on each style adds up.  This no doubt was done to procure funding for these new wild and wacky designs.  Additionally, they've been extremely stingy on shell and suede production.  I presume because these leathers have a slightly more unique production process, thus requiring a deviation from more traditional leather processes, and requiring a greater allocation of resources as compared the more easily "mass" produced leathers. I dont know, but I really do just get the feeling that they are sacrificing on some fronts to make room for these new creations, and thereby neglecting portions of the tried and true in the process

harlequin782, with all due respect, your presumptions are way off base. I promise you that these webgems are not subsidized by other models.

I would guess that one of the reasons the webgems tend to be more aggressively different is so that they do not cannibalize traditional sales, especially at retailers. The webgems surely have higher cost of materials, and maybe even labor, but as a direct only MTO sale, there are no carrying costs or discounts to retail to worry about. My guess is that these are some of the most profitable shoes that AE sells.
post #17835 of 49435
New McAllisters in Walnut calf:



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