Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - Page 766

Quote:

Originally Posted by kentyman 

 

That's a great looking shoe, but why is it so expensive?

Mostly because they can charge that much.  No one else has the Mora.  

Quote:

Originally Posted by bucksfan 

Mostly because they can charge that much.  No one else has the Mora.  

I much prefer the Mora's natural toe box. Sucks that they purposefully changed it up. Here's their description of the Neumora:

Sounds like the Mora had an interesting past. These posts from Sartorially Inclined and Valet seem to confirm that. The latter makes it sound like it can be custom ordered. Maybe that's why Ball and Buck sell them for so much: not enough volume.

Quote:

Originally Posted by imainish 

Wanted to share some photos of the 3-333 last. Love the shoes and they fit perfectly, just not happy with where they are creasing.
Neumora


Rutledge:


Parkways are creasing just fine.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JubeiSpiegel 


I don't think i am completely happy with they way most of my AE's have creased, but as long as the creasing does not cause discomfort, i have learned to get over it.
The only shoes i can no longer use, due to crease discomfort is the Dalton. Sad, but it crushes and cuts into my left big toe...

Quote:

Originally Posted by imainish 


To my eye the 3-333 is the nicest last I have seen from AE and much more similar in design to the C&J, G&G, EG etc that I have come to admire in a quality shoe yet at a price point that works for me. That said, I don't understand why we should have to "get over" or settle for creasing in the wrong spot. I sent AE an email and await their response.
They are a size 7D.

I know I may be inviting some attacks here , but I feel like I see two possible scenarios at work here...  Either we are all wearing ill-fitting shoes, or we are placing too much pressure on our shoes to crease in the "right" location.  There was some venting a few pages back about people carrying the fitting/shoe sizing scenarios too far.  There was also some venting about people being too worried about their shoes getting wet.  Is it somewhat possible that this is another example of something being taken too far?  Now don't misunderstand me, I am not saying that there isn't a guideline on how a proper fitting shoe should crease.  I am starting to wonder if the guidlines are trying to be taken as definite rules.  Ready-to-wear shoes are not an exact science.  It is AE's job to try their hardest to produce a quality product with consistency across the board.  In other words, the pair I order should be of the same quality as a pair you order.  That is what quality assurance is all about.  That said, AE can't take into account that every person out there has a unique foot.  There is going to be differences in how the shoe responds to different feet that are placed inside them.  One of my pairs of shoes creases in a location that I don't really appreciate, but I wear them with pride because they are still better than 98% of the average joe shoes on the streets out there.  The shoes fit and they are comfortable.  On more than one occasion, I have been at an AE store and commented to the SA about the location of the creases on the shoes I was trying on.  Two different SA's have stuck their feet out in front of me and said "mine don't crease perfectly either."  Also, remember that shoes will crease differently depending on what you are doing.  Walking straight down a hallway or around your office may leave creases in the "right" location.  However, once you enter the real world of squatting to pick up something off the floor or re-tie a shoe, kneeling to speak to a child or pet a dog, or any other scenario, they can start crease in other locations because they are then flexing beyond the normal break of the toes when walking on a flat surface.  Sorry for the long post! 

Quote:

Originally Posted by evolved 

Has anyone used Obenauf's HDLP on the brown CXL Bayfield? 

 

I'm wanting to hear some reviews on it.  Also, if I apply HDLP I know that the leather will be quite dull but extremely weather proof....will I be able to strip the HDLP off with something like Saphir Reno and return the leather to it's normal sheen? 

Quote:

Originally Posted by otc 

I was surprised at how different my daltons and bayfields fit...almost to the point where I wonder if there is something different in the construction. My heel slips more than I would like in the daltons and the bayfields seem almost slightly longer/narrower.
I'd look through the Wolverine 1000 Mile thread, lots of discussion in there about caring for CXL. I haven't even brought my bayfields home from the office (though I wore them once when I rode my bike to work) so I can't directly comment but I don't know that it will be as dull as you think. I am wearing boots with LP on them right now and I hit them with a brush this morning. They have a very similar sheen to my brand new bayfields.
They can get dull quick, but a quick brushing brings them back to a satin sheen. I will say--I previously used snoseal on these boots and thought it gave a higher shine (though something about the LP feels more luxurious).
Would be interested in hearing more about how LP (or just obenauf's leather oil) work on the CXL...since it is naturally waxy, it might not really need the full LP.

 

Been using HDLP on my CXL Bayfield's for about a year now. Love it but I'm a big fan of Obenauf's. This is where the creases are on mine BTW:

 

 

MarioImpemba has mentioned using Reno on his and also that I should post pictures of mine after they were cleaned up. I'm back to work for a week to put weight back on the dog and rest him, and then leave for SD Monday pheasant hunting for a couple of weeks. I will try to get some pictures tonight of the finished cleaned up Bayfields. 

The Reno turned the scuffed areas dark which when I put the HDLP on over it gave them a great patina that did not exist before. Love the look even more now. I use Obenhauf's Leather Oil on my bison boots & chukka's (DO NOT use it on the rough collection leather!) and discovered that when the Bayfield's are scuffed after treating with HDLP you can touch them up with the leather oil in a matter of minutes. However the leather oil is no where as water proof as the HDLP. Depends on your intended use and description of "severe use". It took me a lot less time to do my Bayfields than the other 3 boots that I treated at the same time. I'm starting to like the CXL a lot more now....

Before treating any boot (except true dress boots) I use saddle soap, twice to remove all dirt and grime. It will remove a fair amount of the HDLP also. But I consider HDLP as a no turning back option. I'm a boot whore and use it on at least a dozen pair of boots. And my AE black hills.

I found that CXL, or at least mine, never really did shine so much to start with. Sheen is a better term as you said, but it is too casual for where I work. So I picked up the black Bayfield for nasty weather days at the office. They shine up extremely well:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cold Iron 

MarioImpemba has mentioned using Reno on his and also that I should post pictures of mine after they were cleaned up.

 

<snipped> (Click to show)

 

'm back to work for a week to put weight back on the dog and rest him, and then leave for SD Monday pheasant hunting for a couple of weeks. I will try to get some pictures tonight of the finished cleaned up Bayfields. 

 

The Reno turned the scuffed areas dark which when I put the HDLP on over it gave them a great patina that did not exist before. Love the look even more now. I use Obenhauf's Leather Oil on my bison boots & chukka's (DO NOT use it on the rough collection leather!) and discovered that when the Bayfield's are scuffed after treating with HDLP you can touch them up with the leather oil in a matter of minutes. However the leather oil is no where as water proof as the HDLP. Depends on your intended use and description of "severe use". It took me a lot less time to do my Bayfields than the other 3 boots that I treated at the same time. I'm starting to like the CXL a lot more now....

 

Before treating any boot (except true dress boots) I use saddle soap, twice to remove all dirt and grime. It will remove a fair amount of the HDLP also. But I consider HDLP as a no turning back option. I'm a boot whore and use it on at least a dozen pair of boots. And my AE black hills.

 

I found that CXL, or at least mine, never really did shine so much to start with. Sheen is a better term as you said, but it is too casual for where I work. So I picked up the black Bayfield for nasty weather days at the office. They shine up extremely well:

 

 

 

I've never used Reno, but I'm intrigued by your results; I've used Jos A. Banks cheapo shoe cream, Lexol, SnoSeal, and Kiwi before.

Excited to see how your brown Bayfields look cleaned up and glad you're liking the CXL more.

The black ones look great, too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by imainish 


Bel Air in cordovan (unfortunately not mine)
Bel Air can be seen in the 2009 spring catalong:
http://issuu.com/allenedmonds/docs/spring-2009-catalog

Very interesting link.  It looks as though a few of the 0 last shoes are being redone on the 333.  i.e. Bel Air = Larchmont.  

The Burbank looks a lot like the Pasadena which was teased at one point.  The 333 fits me very well.  I hope the Pasadena is on the way soon.