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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc... - Page 4471  

post #67051 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by middlepP View Post
 

 

Ha! Had a very similar conversation about other brogued shoes.

 

Hah- I have this conversation weekly with my wife. She claims all my shoes "look the same". I proceed to explain to her the difference between blucher vs. balmoral; plain toe vs. cap toe. vs. brogue; shortwing vs. longwing; shell vs calf, etc. Her eyes just glaze over in defeat...works every time.

post #67052 of 70737
e7c521204dae5459bd04e2d1c5c93f76.jpg

Navy Maritimes.

Waiting in the doctor's office. Very bored.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
post #67053 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by middlepP View Post
 

Had an interesting conversation with my wife, and then later a co-worker, on what is considered dressier or more casual. 

 

Can you guys please order these 4 shoes from casual to dressy, at least in terms of what you could get away with?

1) Brown grain First Ave (with dainite sole)

2) Tan McTavish

3) Bob's Chili Bleecker Street

4) Merlot Franciscan

. . .

 

Interesting selection.  Ignoring tuxedo pumps, I usually rank (in terms of formality [most >. . .> least]):

lacing: oxford > derby > monk > loafer

style: whole cut > cap toe > stitch cap > semi-brogue > brogue

color: black > dark shades > light shades

sole: leather > Dainite / discreet composite > double leather > commando / rugged

material: full-grain leather > pebble leather 

(I'm not going to get into tanning processes).

 

I'm a fan of oxfords, and love my tan McTavish, even though the oxford brogue makes a few cringe (I have numerous AE shoes in this style, including the tan McTavish, cognac Ridgeway, white Spiaggia, plus burgundy and bourbon McAllisters).

 

Despite being an oxford, the tan leather, finish, full brogue and Budapester style make the tan McTavish an informal shoe. I'd rank it the most casual.

 

The next two are the most difficult:  grain dark leather with a Dainite sole vs. a slightly-lighter semi-brogue Monk -- 

I'll say brown-grain, Dainite-sole First Ave, followed by Merlot Franciscan.

 

That leaves the Bleeker St as the most formal.

 

To me, the Franciscan is the wild card -- I could slot that anywhere other than the most casual of the four.

post #67054 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Odradek View Post

Got a pair of AE Portland boots on ebay.
Worn only a handful of times.
Seconds from the Shoebank, but most people would never notice the flaw.


They are nice. I want a pair, but havent been lucky enough to find them frown.gif
post #67055 of 70737
How much space should there be in the toe of an AE shoe? ...any experience with the 201 last?

allenedmonds_shoes_bartlett_7643_brown.jpg
post #67056 of 70737
Swapped out my pebble grain first avenues for brown burnished.
post #67057 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyK View Post

How much space should there be in the toe of an AE shoe? ...any experience with the 201 last?

I tried the Bartlett today. They felt really good with tie width, but I ad slight heal slip using my 65 last size.
post #67058 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by aejc View Post
 

 

Interesting selection.  Ignoring tuxedo pumps, I usually rank (in terms of formality [most >. . .> least]):

lacing: oxford > derby > monk > loafer

style: whole cut > cap toe > stitch cap > semi-brogue > brogue

color: black > dark shades > light shades

sole: leather > Dainite / discreet composite > double leather > commando / rugged

material: full-grain leather > pebble leather 

(I'm not going to get into tanning processes).

 

I'm a fan of oxfords, and love my tan McTavish, even though the oxford brogue makes a few cringe (I have numerous AE shoes in this style, including the tan McTavish, cognac Ridgeway, white Spiaggia, plus burgundy and bourbon McAllisters).

 

Despite being an oxford, the tan leather, finish, full brogue and Budapester style make the tan McTavish an informal shoe. I'd rank it the most casual.

 

The next two are the most difficult:  grain dark leather with a Dainite sole vs. a slightly-lighter semi-brogue Monk -- 

I'll say brown-grain, Dainite-sole First Ave, followed by Merlot Franciscan.

 

That leaves the Bleeker St as the most formal.

 

To me, the Franciscan is the wild card -- I could slot that anywhere other than the most casual of the four.

 

Enjoyed reading your reply. I agree that the Franciscan is the wild card.

 

For me, the McTavish is the most casual. The light welt, double sole, and rough leather easily outweigh the bal lacing.

Of the remaining three, I use the Bleecker as the most formal.

 

The other two are a bit of a toss up. The color and shape of the Franciscan say formal, though I always think of a strap as casual (which is maybe why I have always shied away from Moras). A cap toe definitely leans formal, though the grain leather and dainite are more casual. I actually wear the Franciscans more casual, but that is because I think they look great with jeans. I use the First Aves as bad weather formal wear. These are the two that I was most interested in hearing about.

post #67059 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by LanceM View Post

Swapped out my pebble grain first avenues for brown burnished.


Good call IMO. 

post #67060 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxRacer View Post
 

So I'm an opinionated person. I know what I like and can usually tell you why I don't like something. Which is why I did fairly well in business consulting and was able to live, so far, on five different continents and find/create work for myself on all of them. 

The Bellerive looks like a shoe for an aging rock star who still want's to be "hip" not realizing no one has used the word unironically in over a decade. It looks like an old man shoe mashed up with another old man shoe to make a shoe that looks even older. And then spray painted to "make it edgy." That shoe does have a market. There are aging rockers and mid level drug dealers who have reached retirement age that would love this shoe. Make it a special order and double the price.

The crackled McT. They should have had one version in a natural bull leather. The hide from an older animal with as little processing color wise as possible. Either do a natural or pale whiskey. Sell a shoe that will develop a personality as you own it, as you wear it, the way it is meant to happen. BUYING a shoe with personality is sad. Someone else decided to mark up your shoe. Your life story has to be written on a page scribbled on, poorly, by someone else. Those are my first thoughts looking at this poor shoe that could have been friggin awesome! I tried this shoe on and it made me sad. I see what it could have been, how powerful a statement it could have made, and how it was wasted. 

I'm gong to go hug my Jefferson 1.0 in brown! 

There are things AE should do... 1) For people like me who buy lots of their shoes, from lots of places, sell us premium Allen Edmonds boxes like those that come with the Independence Collection. In bulk those boses have to be around a dollar. Sell them for $10. 2) When recrafting shoes allow us the choice of buying the brass Allen Edmond nameplate from the first Independence run. I liked them and they remind me of the bespoke shoes my friends had. The new "gold paint" is worse and dumber than the brass. When buying shoes from the Shoebank the salesperson on the phone should ALWAYS say, "Would  you like to buy bags with this shoe" If they don't have bags. "Would you like the shoes shipped with shoe trees?" Would you like the belt we recommend for this shoe?" "The socks?" "Do you have this shade of polish/wax/creme/etc..." Don't beat it to death but make suggestions. Especially about dust bags and shoe trees.   Turning a one dollar box into a ten dollar sale would also be cool. I only buy American made clothing. I do cheat a bit. My underwear is made in Brazil. When AE partners with people they should also partner with people who don't use slave labor and share our values. Brazil would be a good spot to consider doing something with. 

Sorry...Got my brain going before bed. Good night. I think I could clean up their design team in about a year or two.They've just gotten a bit lazy. They are good and talented but then need some fire. Too many shoes look too  much like the other shoes and there is no core focus on what the design vision is. 

 

I'm with you on almost all of that, especially the boxes/bags thing.  I also hope they revive the MTO program with a nominal (I'm thinking $60 for a few changes, $100 for several). 

 

I'm glad they're trying new stuff, but while Alden isn't doing a lot of direct experimentation, guys like AoC, LeatherSoul and others are doing some terrific make-ups.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxRacer View Post
 

That was the crackled wingtip loafer....

The McTavish IS a decent lookiing shoe. But I don't like the "wax/burnishing" whatever they call it because, as usual, they took it too far. Having a shoe in a natural color leather means that the person buying it wants to see how this shoe changes over time. A shoe that grows (grows old) WITH the owner. I don't hate the McT I did try it on, liked the fit, like the idea of the natural leather. but the one I tried on had these sloppy black brushstrokes that just made the shoe look cheap and poorly thought out. PERHAPS with some restraint the effect would work  and look great. AND what I choose  to put on my feet is my business just as whatever anyone else chooses to put on theirs. I have no doubt some guys on here would look at my shoes and say, "Too many wingtips." They would be right and I wouldn't care. Order what you like, love what you wear, tell everyone else to kiss off. All that said it's still okay to laugh.....

 


I wasn't sure which ones you were talking about and had to look it up -  I'm with you on the cracked. McT.  I LOVE my waxed tan and cognac McT's though...

 

(I'm also a member of the TMW club.  Don't care either ;))


Edited by M635Guy - 11/13/15 at 7:50pm
post #67061 of 70737

 

 

post #67062 of 70737
I have lurked here for awhile, but could use some advice. Bought a pair of hales from shoe bank. Was fairly excited to see them on there, pretty happy with them when they got here - saw a little issue with the leather, which I expected. It had a sole I had never seen (leather, with small rubber dots) - unexpected, but kind of cool.

But when I put them on, one of the heels is higher than the other. Laying flat one heel is elevated at least 1/8 inch higher. Feels a little odd on hard surfaces.

For those that have far more experience - is this something that will get better or work itself out? Or should these go back? I love the look of the hale, but do t want to be reminded that they are jacked up with every second step. Thanks for any advice.


post #67063 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by LanceM View Post

Swapped out my pebble grain first avenues for brown burnished.

Great looking boot!
post #67064 of 70737

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyK View Post

How much space should there be in the toe of an AE shoe? ...any experience with the 201 last?

 

 

I had a conversation with another member on this the other day.  It is something of personal taste, and for me I find some of their lasts a little long.  The shoe will fit just fine, but I just feel funny (mentally) when I'm wearing them about the length beyond my toes.  Sometimes (well, just about always), sizing down and wider helps, but that does tend to compromise some other aspect of fit.  You may just have to try out different combinations from one last to another.

post #67065 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by middlepP View Post
 

Had an interesting conversation with my wife, and then later a co-worker, on what is considered dressier or more casual. 

 

Can you guys please order these 4 shoes from casual to dressy, at least in terms of what you could get away with?

1) Brown grain First Ave (with dainite sole)

2) Tan McTavish

3) Bob's Chili Bleecker Street

4) Merlot Franciscan

 

My wife felt that the McT's and Franciscans were the dressiest, because they were the fanciest and had broguing; Bleeckers were the most casual becuase they were plain.

 

Pics of 1-4:

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

1)

2)

3)

4)

 

Very difficult list. Also, on my screen the franciscans and bleeckers look much lighter than my merlot and chili shoes, so I'm imagining them darker than they appear here. I don't know that I would wear any of these with a suit, which makes the whole thing much more difficult for me. I would put all of these on the casual end of the spectrum. 

 

1. McT's (most casual). Everything else is a toss up for me. 

2. Franciscan 

3. First avenue 

4. Bleecker St. (Most Formal)

 

Most people fail to understand the difference between 'dressy' and 'casual' because this language isn't very helpful in our contemporary culture of self expression and individualism. 'Casual' and 'formal' are better suited for the task. What your wife and co-worker are saying is that those shoes are the most interesting or fanciest, which I would agree with. However, the more fancy or dressy something is, the less formal it is, and the more it calls attention to itself and the person wearing them. I would simply ask my wife or co-worker which shoe would be more appropriate at a funeral or wedding. Hopefully one wouldn't say the shoe that draws the most attention, i.e. the dressiest.

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