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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc... - Page 4261  

post #63901 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by vmss View Post


Please read the following quote from the Allen Edmonds wiki page "Dominican Republic manufacturing


In 2006, concerned with rising manufacturing costs and looking to compete more directly with the boat shoe and handsewn market, Allen Edmonds made the decision to discontinue their Lewiston, Maine manufacturing and moved the handsewn production to their new, company owned, factory in the Dominican Republic.[11] Currently shoe uppers for the Allen Edmonds handsewn collection are cut and sewn in the Dominican Republic .[12] The raw materials are sent there from the U.S., where the uppers are sewn together, then shipped back to the factory in Port Washington, Wisconsin, to complete their construction, thus allowing them to be considered "Made in the USA." Alternatively, styles from the ae by Allen Edmonds collection are produced entirely in and sold as Made in the Dominican Republic. In addition to their handsewn collection, Allen Edmonds also utilizes the Dominican Republic factory to cut and sew the uppers of their Goodyear welted collection of shoes. Similar to the "American Made" handsewns, these welted uppers are shipped back to the factory in Wisconsin where the remainder of the lasting, welting and soling are completed."

According to the wiki of Allen Edmonds the uppers are sewn in Dominican Republic.

 

I'm not going to get super involved in this, because quite frankly it isn't my job or responsibility to do so, but large portions of that aren't accurate or are severely over simplified. 

post #63902 of 70737
I read sometime last year that AE constructs its uppers in DR...not just for its budget line shoes either...for all of its shoes, except the Independence line maybe, I believe...I accepted it after a while and just convinced myself to overlook that and continued to make purchases. But when the heel came off of my Neumoks revealing what looked like a piece of a paper plate that had been cut into the shape of the heel and I began reading here that they had switched to using cardboard in their heels, along with ever ascending prices for full retail products, I started to understand why people only (or at least mostly) just shop at the Shoebank. Truth be told, if I worked for or at Allen Edmonds, I would consider everyone on this forum a moron too...if you follow this forum long enough, this forum leaves you very little reason to purchase their product at full retail, whether that's because youve become far more informed about quality shoemaking than you were before, or whether its because you become aware of each and every sale, and avenue to get their shoes at incredible discounts (Shoebank, Burlington CF, Nordstrom sales, as well as regular AE sales)..
post #63903 of 70737
@iloveplaid the Walden and the Grayson fit very differently. The Grayson will feel longer for sure - you may like it better (same size). What else have you tried? Need a little more info, but shooting from the hip, id check out the Addison, McGraw or something else in the 234.
post #63904 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by garland View Post

I'm not going to get super involved in this, because quite frankly it isn't my job or responsibility to do so, but large portions of that aren't accurate or are severely over simplified. 
Ignorance is bliss.
post #63905 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackboot View Post

Is the apparent use of cardboard a new development? There is an interesting "dissection" thread located here:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/415186/shoe-dissection-allen-edmonds-john-lobb-bostonian-and-more

There does not appear to be any sub-par materials being used in the AE sheos in these photos. What am I missing?

 

I think the guy that did that dissection is simply mistaken.  The material that they make the heel stack out of is difficult to identify, but it's not stacked leather.  I suppose there could be some leather board in there, but it seems more like a fiber/paper board to me.

 

Here is a photo from one of my dissections of a main-line shoe: 

 

 

You can see the surface texture of the layer under the one I peeled back, and it has a finely patterned appearance as if it was stamped out.  Whatever it is... leather, paper, some other unidentified fiber, it isn't stacked leather.

 

I have no idea how long they've been using this material, so this may not be a revelation.  Even in a lot of the high end English shoes, pre-assembled heels are the norm.  But, the better ones are still leather. 

 

I certainly get outspoken about certain components being made of inferior materials, but I will say that synthetic heel and toe stiffeners are also the norm.  There are a few out there that use leather in the non-bespoke world, but not many.  So, AE isn't really violating any GY-welted shoe manufacturing standards there. 

 

Frankly, I'm much more worried about how many models are shifting to Poron insoles than I am about the synthetic heel stack since the heel stack gets replaced at recrafting no matter what.  The insole, however, is there for life. 

post #63906 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by vmss View Post


Ignorance is bliss.

That or he's just not wasting his time explaining to you why information on the internet that is not supported by any source doesn't have a shred of credibility. 

post #63907 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoneyWellSpent View Post

I think the guy that did that dissection is simply mistaken.  The material that they make the heel stack out of is difficult to identify, but it's not stacked leather.  I suppose there could be some leather board in there, but it seems more like a fiber/paper board to me.

Here is a photo from one of my dissections of a main-line shoe: 




You can see the surface texture of the layer under the one I peeled back, and it has a finely patterned appearance as if it was stamped out.  Whatever it is... leather, paper, some other unidentified fiber, it isn't stacked leather.

I have no idea how long they've been using this material, so this may not be a revelation.  Even in a lot of the high end English shoes, pre-assembled heels are the norm.  But, the better ones are still leather. 

I certainly get outspoken about certain components being made of inferior materials, but I will say that synthetic heel and toe stiffeners are also the norm.  There are a few out there that use leather in the non-bespoke world, but not many.  So, AE isn't really violating any GY-welted shoe manufacturing standards there. 

Frankly, I'm much more worried about how many models are shifting to Poron insoles than I am about the synthetic heel stack since the heel stack gets replaced at recrafting no matter what.  The insole, however, is there for life. 

Whew...as someone who doesnt know the general trends among modern shoemakers, that's actually quite reassuring to hear...because realistically, if they are cutting more corners than is typical for a shoe at their price point, I was concerned about an ethical issue with the company's integrity. As in: how much lower than its contemporaries is the company willing to go, as long its not discussed or discovered?
post #63908 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by antb29 View Post

That or he's just not wasting his time explaining to you why information on the internet that is not supported by any source doesn't have a shred of credibility. 

Your very own CEO of AE made a statement regarding uppers being made in DR:

AllenEdmondsCEOCEO - Allen Edmonds
1141d, 20h15




We own our own plant in the Dominican Republic, the island where Columbus first landed in 1492. There we make shoes to compete in the rubber bottom and boat shoe niches dominated by offshore manufacturers in constructions we don't have the equipment to do in Port Washington, WI, and -- if we did -- we'd be so much more expensive than competitors we'd be sunk. We don't want our customers or our future customers building relationships with the lower cost boat shoe or rubber bottom comfort shoe suppliers anymore. We also do some initial leather cutting and pattern sewing there that lowers our overall cost structure and keeps our retail pricing below $400 for our dress shoes. Those folks are as much a part of our family as any of us. They're great when I visit. I'm proud of the expansion in employment we've also had there -- they sure need the jobs and we Americans need a healthy hemisphere. They do great work, too.

We've expanded significantly in the U.S. because of all the things you mention -- especially commitment to community that is a part of our patriotism, you bet. The economically easier path trod by so many others would have been to shut down in the U.S. but my predecessor, John Stollenwerk, and our team never considered it. The flexibility we have as a domestic manufacturer in "time to market" and custom-sized quantities is becoming a bigger advantage all the time as we learn how to use it."
post #63909 of 70737

Got some new pairs of AEs. Want to protect them from creasing/cracking, what not.

 

My understanding now is that I need to use shoe cream. I don't want to go too hard core with polishing situation, since at most I will wear 1~2 times a month a pair. But what kind of actual shoe cream should I buy?

 

Is "neutral" tone from Kiwi something I can use from color black to walnut? Is this shoe cream what keeps the leather moist and prevents excessive cracking of the leather?

 

Thank you!

post #63910 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by vmss View Post


Your very own CEO of AE made a statement regarding uppers being made in DR:

AllenEdmondsCEOCEO - Allen Edmonds
1141d, 20h15




We own our own plant in the Dominican Republic, the island where Columbus first landed in 1492. There we make shoes to compete in the rubber bottom and boat shoe niches dominated by offshore manufacturers in constructions we don't have the equipment to do in Port Washington, WI, and -- if we did -- we'd be so much more expensive than competitors we'd be sunk. We don't want our customers or our future customers building relationships with the lower cost boat shoe or rubber bottom comfort shoe suppliers anymore. We also do some initial leather cutting and pattern sewing there that lowers our overall cost structure and keeps our retail pricing below $400 for our dress shoes. Those folks are as much a part of our family as any of us. They're great when I visit. I'm proud of the expansion in employment we've also had there -- they sure need the jobs and we Americans need a healthy hemisphere. They do great work, too.

We've expanded significantly in the U.S. because of all the things you mention -- especially commitment to community that is a part of our patriotism, you bet. The economically easier path trod by so many others would have been to shut down in the U.S. but my predecessor, John Stollenwerk, and our team never considered it. The flexibility we have as a domestic manufacturer in "time to market" and custom-sized quantities is becoming a bigger advantage all the time as we learn how to use it."

 

That is actually helpful. Is this from the Reddit AMA ? You could have just quoted that instead of wikipedia. 

post #63911 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by antb29 View Post

That is actually helpful. Is this from the Reddit AMA ? You could have just quoted that instead of wikipedia. 

yes from reddit. I thought that wiki was credible apparently for some of you not.
post #63912 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by vmss View Post

Ignorance is bliss.

I guess you don't know that @garland works for AE. So I wouldn't call him ignorant. At the very least he knows more about the brands products than anyone else here.
post #63913 of 70737
When Paul was on platform he said the uppers were clicked and described it as receiving a flat disc of leather...he seemed to make it like the patterns were cut and sections attached but all of the brogue work and wings and stitching outside the stitching to hold the pieces together were done stateside.
post #63914 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by garland View Post

I'm not going to get super involved in this, because quite frankly it isn't my job or responsibility to do so, but large portions of that aren't accurate or are severely over simplified. 

I didn't know you worked for AE, and if you truly did you would have corrected me if I had mentioned something that didn't make sense.

I am curious now, why don't you make it clear where the uppers at produced? If they use paper or cardboard heel or leather stacked etc.

I would like you to prove me and other posters wrong for clarification.
post #63915 of 70737
I have visited many shoe stores where the salesman were either unknowledgeable about their own shoes they were selling or uninterested. They were just trying to tickle your ears and sell as much possible for extra commission.

If he does work for AE it doesn't tell me anything unless he start to educating us regarding the fabrication of their shoes.
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