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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc... - Page 4157  

post #62341 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by smfdoc View Post

Let me throw a couple of thoughts into this discussion about formal versus informal. My experience that the vast majority of people wearing suits just throw anything in their feet as a "dress shoe." There are lots of cheap glued shoes with rubber soles at the bottom of suit slacks. While the readers of this forum certainly know finer footwear, the average person will never notice an Oxford versus a derby and make a decision about the level of formality.

Second, there are some people who use a list of criteria to determine the "formal" shoe and this places shoes that do not meet each criteria onto some scale of "informal." My experience is most of these criteria are based on "Sleekness." Oxfords are sleeker in appearance than derbys. Double oak soles are less sleek than a single oak. Somehow this applies to brogue as the plain cap toe is sleeker than the brogue covered shoe. I was told that I was mistaken that brogue patterns and mutliple layers of a wingtip was less fancy thank a plain cap toe.

This information was particularly frustrating to people like me who have yet to find an Oxford design that fits our feet. I certainly cannot justify a bespoke Oxford just to have a shoe that I can wear with a suit. I, and some others like me, have grown content with a fine leather AE derby shoe with a leather sole with our suits. Sometimes plain; sometimes with brogue. 95% or more of the people do not give a second thought to these "dress shoes." With a good polish, nice shine, proper edge coating, these will be just fine with a suit. Just my opinion based on observation. "Your mileage may vary."

 

Speaking for myself, I think a split reverse welt and a thick sole do more to make a shoe informal than the open vs close lacing.  One thing people don't mention is the level of polish - you can make a shoe more formal by upping the shine, and less formal by keeping it matte.

post #62342 of 70737

Gorgeous stuff in the recent pics, folks—i.e. DeathandTaxes' Coffee-Colored “Harrisons”, RichieP's “Rush Streets”, CSmitty's Butterscotch “Leeds” and so on. Especially love the “My First Pair” pics. Will post my own soon...

 

But...yeah, I did another NYC Burlington Coat Factory AE Trawl yesterday and found a few nice things that some enterprising souls with $150 or so should definitely hop a subway train or buzz down in a car for. These are from the Downtown Brooklyn/Atlantic Terminal/Barclays Center BCF. The joint is still a nightmare to shop in, but like some urban “Antique Picker”, I found some quite beautiful, nicely priced goodies not in MY size unfortunately, but certainly items you guys should pick up.

 

And (In my “The Dating Game” host voice) “He-e-e-e-e-e-e-e-rrrre they are...”

 

I was lusting for a pair of these in an 11.5E/12D for myself, but no damn dice. :( In fact, THESE are the smallest AEs I've ever come across...a 6.5D pair of stunning Calf & Linen “Carlsbad” Spectator Loafers. Not seconds either—they're just very small and have lingered until the price has dropped so low it hurts...

Seventy measly bucks. Good God. What a gorgeous shoe...too small for me. @#$%^*!

 

 

 

Next was these masterpieces—Deep Brown, Pebbled, Football Leather “Patriot” Penny Loafers. Again, in a small size—these are 7Ds, but they are immaculate. Not seconds, again. Anyone have Rick Moranis' number? I hear he's got this like...machine that'll blow these up larger—oh, to say a 12D, perhaps? Hit me with those digits if anybody has 'em. I LOVE these shoes! :)

I've never seen these before...and probably never will again. Didn't even know they made 'em in this finish, but I swear they'd sell a a few thousand of these if they manufactured and publicized THIS particular variant. These are my new “Holy Grail” in a 12D, but alas... :(

 

 

Now we have something COMPLETELY DIFFERENT—a lovely pair of Dark Brown, Varied-Grain Leather, Lug-Soled “Aberdeens” in a 9D. The texture variations on these via the tumbling and weathering is eye-catching without being obtrusive at all...Here they are...

The raw brass eyelets give these a nice, rugged look, as does the lug-soling But that chunky sole, brougeing and longwing look would make for an awesome pairing with a natty pair of wide-wale cords or charcoal flannel slacks. There! I've put the outfit together for you—now get down there and get these puppies!

 

 

Lastly, there were these two pairs for a BIG BOY—Size 14D Bleecker Street Dress Boots in Bourbon and Dark Chili respectively. Now, these DO have the seconds mark on the sole, and the imperfections appear in the polishing/burnishing stage—some unevenness in the polishing, particularly on the bourbons. Note the left boot is less polished than the right and the dark chilis look a tad dulled. But, nothing a bit of Saphir, a brush and some TLC cannot cure. Nice V-Tap soles and fully recraftable, as are all shown here...


$139.00 for these is awfully damned good I think.

 

These are again at the Burlington Coat Factory at Atlantic Center in Brooklyn—accessible via the MTA's 2,3,4,5, N.R,Q,D & B trains as well as LIRR Commuter Trains.

 

One other thing, it seems that the NYC BCF stores are in the process of gearing up for the Fall, so I noticed a LOT of uproar in the shoe sections—entire size sections have been cleared for either inventorying, and stuff packed away for clearance moves to even lesser outlets as space is needed for new seasonal inventory. These AEs are not a forever thing at these otherwise crappy outlets, so when they're gone, they MAY well be gone for good as this is a probably finite stock they lucked into.

 

With that, the usual call at the end: “Go git 'em boys!” (SERIOUSLY, before they're gone, fellas!)


Edited by misterellington - 7/30/15 at 11:09am
post #62343 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Levi1 View Post

Thank you to all who replied regarding the degree of formality or otherwise of the Leeds.

If most people view something as informal, then that's what it really is even if I'd like to convince myself otherwise. And I do see that a clunky welt and double sole does make it less formal, so will sadly have to wait a little longer for my next purchase.

I'm still willing to get a derby as a formal shoe though, since I simply cannot see the intuition behind derbies being inherently informal, and there do seem to be two opinions on this. What do you guys ike for that? Personally, the Delray has always appealed to me. Are there any formal derby captoes, for example?

The Mayfair in black patent is probably the most formal AE with open lacing that I can recall. Think they might have discontinued it within the past year though. Check the shoe bank. For your purposes though, probably still not quite right, since patent might be going a little too far. Leeds are "fine" and the Lexington is also "fine" and just about no one you meet will have an issue with you wearing those two.

post #62344 of 70737

Cheapo Gobi Day

post #62345 of 70737

anyone has loake/church and AE shoes, can help me on the sizing? Im looking to purchase AE shoes (penny loafers) off eBay but i really can't decide the size. i tried the AE sizing guide (size 8)but from the measurements provided from the seller, seems that i can fit 1/2- 1size smaller. I prefer a snug fit though.
Sadly, there's no physical AE store in my country so i can't try my sizing. My best bet is to go try church/loake in departmental stores and gauge my size from there..

post #62346 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathandTaxes View Post Nice! (Click to show)
 

Looking at all of the posts excited about new models and options got me thinking about my first pair of Allen Edmonds (and it doesn't hurt I was wearing them today):


My first are a pair of Byrons I bought off eBay for $80.  They were half a size too big, had been worn once before, and the model had been recently discontinued (back then, I didn't know they had been discontinued - I just knew they would likely be a good addition to my shoe rotation that at the time included two pairs of made in India Florsheim Imperials I had purchased during a Mens Wearhouse buy-one-get-one sale and pair of Mezlans I had been given as a present during high school).  

They are still going strong (this picture was after getting surprised by a thunderstorm) and are a regular part of my rotation of about 20 other pairs of AE's.


I thought a topic like this might be fun and allow people to show their appreciation for the brand by going back to the pair that got them started: what was your first (AE pair of shoes)?

Many years ago and my only AE shoe for quite a few years, black calf Leeds. Last 2 years or so have been adding a little Saphir blue polish.

 

The Leeds are identical to the military shoe which I wore for 20 years with the exception that it fits better and lasts a lot longer. Obviously they are not made by the cheapest bidder LOL. A PTB is good enough for the most formal occasions in the military so I have no issues with wearing it the same way out of uniform.

post #62347 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by smfdoc View Post

Let me throw a couple of thoughts into this discussion about formal versus informal. My experience that the vast majority of people wearing suits just throw anything in their feet as a "dress shoe." There are lots of cheap glued shoes with rubber soles at the bottom of suit slacks. While the readers of this forum certainly know finer footwear, the average person will never notice an Oxford versus a derby and make a decision about the level of formality.

Second, there are some people who use a list of criteria to determine the "formal" shoe and this places shoes that do not meet each criteria onto some scale of "informal." My experience is most of these criteria are based on "Sleekness." Oxfords are sleeker in appearance than derbys. Double oak soles are less sleek than a single oak. Somehow this applies to brogue as the plain cap toe is sleeker than the brogue covered shoe. I was told that I was mistaken that brogue patterns and mutliple layers of a wingtip was less fancy thank a plain cap toe.

This information was particularly frustrating to people like me who have yet to find an Oxford design that fits our feet. I certainly cannot justify a bespoke Oxford just to have a shoe that I can wear with a suit. I, and some others like me, have grown content with a fine leather AE derby shoe with a leather sole with our suits. Sometimes plain; sometimes with brogue. 95% or more of the people do not give a second thought to these "dress shoes." With a good polish, nice shine, proper edge coating, these will be just fine with a suit. Just my opinion based on observation. "Your mileage may vary."

Great post! I am fortunate or maybe rather unfortunate that the 5 last fits me better than any other last so I own plenty of both. If I am going to be attending an important meeting that day more times than not I will wear the Leeds, Dundee's or sometimes black shell PA. However pretty much everyone I know in the real world outside of SF feels that wingtips are "fancier" than captoes or PTB. Attention to detail with a good shine and edge dressing goes a long ways no matter what you have on your feet. Except for those ugly cemented bicycle shoes, I can't get past the look. Or tennis shoes with rubber soles trying to pass as dress shoes.

post #62348 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by YoungSweet View Post

The Walnut Strands popped my cherry. Though I had replaced these with a different size since my feet grew in the last year, I still keep the pictures, for old times sake.

I'll play. My first pair of Allen Edmonds was the navy Harbour boat shoes of the AE line. Got it back in 2011 and I still use it during beach/pool vacations.
post #62349 of 70737
Rocking my AE Vernons
(saddle brown, but use AE Walnut polish)

post #62350 of 70737

I'm a newcomer to styleforum but have learned a lot by reading the message boards here.  I've bought my first pair of Allen Edmonds shoes in walnut Strand, the most expensive shoes I've ever bought, and they just arrived.  I went to an Allen Edmonds store to get fitted, but they didn't have my size in stock so they shipped it from a warehouse.  There are some things I found odd and I'm not sure if I should ask for a replacement.  I'd be grateful for any insight.

 

1. The shoes came with darkened toes.  Is that normal?  I could be mistaken, but I didn't think it was standard, and I think I'd prefer the shoes without the toe darkening.

2. In the second picture you can see a band of darker color on the right shoe just behind the cap stitching.  Is this within the normal color variation of new shoes (not seconds)?  Could it be corrected with polishing?

 

Darkened toe - with flash on

 

Right shoe, flash (left) and no flash (right).  You can see a band of darker color just behind the cap stitching.

 

Left shoe, no flash.  The coloration is more consistent, except darker at the toe.

post #62351 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by califriend View Post
 

I'm a newcomer to styleforum but have learned a lot by reading the message boards here.  I've bought my first pair of Allen Edmonds shoes in walnut Strand, the most expensive shoes I've ever bought, and they just arrived.  I went to an Allen Edmonds store to get fitted, but they didn't have my size in stock so they shipped it from a warehouse.  There are some things I found odd and I'm not sure if I should ask for a replacement.  I'd be grateful for any insight.

 

1. The shoes came with darkened toes.  Is that normal?  I could be mistaken, but I didn't think it was standard, and I think I'd prefer the shoes without the toe darkening.

2. In the second picture you can see a band of darker color on the right shoe just behind the cap stitching.  Is this within the normal color variation of new shoes (not seconds)?  Could it be corrected with polishing?

 

Darkened toe - with flash on

 

Right shoe, flash (left) and no flash (right).  You can see a band of darker color just behind the cap stitching.

 

Left shoe, no flash.  The coloration is more consistent, except darker at the toe.

Burnishing is a little strange but not enough to make me return personally. It will even out with some polishing anyway. However, if it bothers you return them. Everybody has different   tolerances when it comes to this kind of stuff. 

 

 My advice would be to order a pair from nordstrom because they are significantly cheaper. Did you see the sale price at nordstrom? I think 257 

post #62352 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by tb43 View Post
 

Burnishing is a little strange but not enough to make me return personally. It will even out with some polishing anyway. However, if it bothers you return them. Everybody has different   tolerances when it comes to this kind of stuff. 

 

 My advice would be to order a pair from nordstrom because they are significantly cheaper. Did you see the sale price at nordstrom? I think 257 

I did have Allen Edmonds match the Nordstrom sale price.  Thinking about getting a replacement but if it will becomes less stark and even out with polishing then it would be fine.

post #62353 of 70737

Ducked into BCF at Union Square here in NYC to avoid a torrential downpour...no intention of picking anything up, but lo' and behold, I found these burly but classy lookin' dead-stocked "Cascades" from a couple of years ago for $99.00! YES! I'd been wanting a black, rough-and-tumble boot (with looks) and son-of-a-bitch...THESE turn up! Fully recraftable (Yay!), Vibram Lug-Soled. PERFECT with jeans and a leather jacket!

 


Have TOO many outfits to deploy these with! :)

post #62354 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by califriend View Post

I'm a newcomer to styleforum but have learned a lot by reading the message boards here.  I've bought my first pair of Allen Edmonds shoes in walnut Strand, the most expensive shoes I've ever bought, and they just arrived.  I went to an Allen Edmonds store to get fitted, but they didn't have my size in stock so they shipped it from a warehouse.  There are some things I found odd and I'm not sure if I should ask for a replacement.  I'd be grateful for any insight.

1. The shoes came with darkened toes.  Is that normal?  I could be mistaken, but I didn't think it was standard, and I think I'd prefer the shoes without the toe darkening.
2. In the second picture you can see a band of darker color on the right shoe just behind the cap stitching.  Is this within the normal color variation of new shoes (not seconds)?  Could it be corrected with polishing?

Darkened toe - with flash on



Right shoe, flash (left) and no flash (right).  You can see a band of darker color just behind the cap stitching.

This is all "normal". Some people like the darkened toes and some don't. Some people spend a lot of time trying to darken the toe like that. They could probably track down a pair without the darkened toe, if you prefer a more uniform look. The way I understand it, individuals burnish the shoes so there will be differences from shoe to shoe.
post #62355 of 70737

@misterellington great score - never have seen that boot in person - enjoy

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