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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc... - Page 4073  

post #61081 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by peppercorn78 View Post


Hi Mr. G! Thanks for stopping in. I have an unrelated question for you, if you can spare the time (I'm sure you can't, but always manage to give us some anyway). It's regarding the finishing of shell cordovan (what else). Many of us have noticed that the finishing of shell products from your company feels different these days. The burgundy color definitely seems darker, and the shells all around have a drier, more "matte" finish as opposed to the previous "glossy" traditional shell finish. Can you (would you) speak a little bit to how the process has changed recently, if at all? I have purchased three shell AE shoes since September, and they all seem to be on the dry side. They're still my babies, though!

Also, I'm sure that the Horween trunk shows caused a little bit of a headache logistically (and with customer expectations), but are there plans for any follow-ups, or were we just the luck few for a one-time event?

Best,
--Patrick Cornelius

Hi Patrick -- Nice to see your name come up and thanks for the question. This is interesting to me and I'll relay your feedback to our production leaders. We've actually been taking our finishings UP the glossiness scale, not down, in line with fashion trends. In fact, you'll notice when we introduce our new "Refined Dress" shoes for fall in a couple of months, that we've taken our finishings to the highest level in our history. The samples we've produced look fantastic, and I'm really excited about them and proud of the team that has been working on the new protocols to get them just right. So I'm puzzled as to why your shoes would be more "matted". The only thing I can say is that cordovan is way harder to get consitent than calfskin leathers, due to the nature of the hide and the process involved. Skip and Nick Horween do an amazing job with that leather, as you so well know, but it starts as an intra-dermous callous layer on the proverbial "south side of a horse heading north" (as my dad used to say) caused by the horse's running. The dermous both above and below the shell is shaved off by Horween artisans, and then there are layers and layers of wax and tint worked into the skin. How often, how long and where and for what purpose the horse ran before developing those callouses can have a big effect on how the shell will take the color and processing. It's quite a different storyline than those calves standing around in an Alpine meadow, getting fatted for meat processing and hide removal.

As for another cordovan trunk show -- stay tuned. We'll do it again!

Best,
Paul
post #61082 of 70737
Anynody has a pic of Brown Strands wanted to get a pair from the sale my 1st option was Chili but they're sold out in my size and the Bourbon available has tiger striping ; only Walnut and Brown available in my size and i like the darker shade better.

Thanks.
post #61083 of 70737
In case you haven't noticed, the Clark Street is on sale at the Shoebank for a great price. I've got a pair in the natural and like them a lot. They are very comfortable, and fit me in the same size as my shoes in the 65 last.

I really like the brown ones too. If there was a pair in my size, I'd probably have to grab those too.
post #61084 of 70737

I'm looking for some advice for a casual pair or two that's not too casual to be worn with slacks and a button down. In the future, I'll probably buy something like a leather McGregor or Rush Street, but for now I'm looking for any thoughts on the following closeout shoes I don't hear much about: brown distressed neumoks ($139), brown Norwhich ($97 but seen mixed reviews), stone suede McGregor ($157), and chesnut Lubbock ($147)? Any thoughts on what's good or what to avoid of these? Thanks.

post #61085 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by AllenEdmondsCEO View Post

Hi Patrick -- Nice to see your name come up and thanks for the question. This is interesting to me and I'll relay your feedback to our production leaders. We've actually been taking our finishings UP the glossiness scale, not down, in line with fashion trends. In fact, you'll notice when we introduce our new "Refined Dress" shoes for fall in a couple of months, that we've taken our finishings to the highest level in our history. The samples we've produced look fantastic, and I'm really excited about them and proud of the team that has been working on the new protocols to get them just right. So I'm puzzled as to why your shoes would be more "matted". The only thing I can say is that cordovan is way harder to get consitent than calfskin leathers, due to the nature of the hide and the process involved. Skip and Nick Horween do an amazing job with that leather, as you so well know, but it starts as an intra-dermous layer of the proverbial "south side of a horse heading north" (as my dad used to say), with dermous both above and below shaved off by artisans, and then there are layers and layers of wax and tint worked into the skin. How often, how long and where and for what purpose the horse ran before becoming a candidate for a pair of cordovan shoes can have a big effect on how the shell will take the color and processing.

As for another cordovan trunk show -- stay tuned. We'll do it again!

Best,
Paul
Hi Paul

Thanks for dropping by and letting us know about Allen Edmonds future plans. I'm excited for the fall line up especially after you've mentioned the new, higher finish that will be used on the leathers.

I'm even more excited with the trunk show! That said I was hoping I could suggest If the order taking process could be improved? I was one of the folks who got their orders taken incorrectly and because of the lack of clear specifications on myinvoice for the 2 pairs I've ordered it took a lot of back and forth to figure out what went wrong. Almost 8mo in, I'm still actually waiting on some trunk show orders. If I could suggest for the next trunk show a similar invoicing system that Allison employs where she states all the SMU specs in the invoice. It's very simple but very effective?

Thank you very much again for dropping by. Looking forward to what AE has in store in the coming months.

Best regards
Dale Iranon
post #61086 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by AllenEdmondsCEO View Post


Hi Patrick -- Nice to see your name come up and thanks for the question. This is interesting to me and I'll relay your feedback to our production leaders. We've actually been taking our finishings UP the glossiness scale, not down, in line with fashion trends. In fact, you'll notice when we introduce our new "Refined Dress" shoes for fall in a couple of months, that we've taken our finishings to the highest level in our history. The samples we've produced look fantastic, and I'm really excited about them and proud of the team that has been working on the new protocols to get them just right. So I'm puzzled as to why your shoes would be more "matted". The only thing I can say is that cordovan is way harder to get consitent than calfskin leathers, due to the nature of the hide and the process involved. Skip and Nick Horween do an amazing job with that leather, as you so well know, but it starts as an intra-dermous callous layer on the proverbial "south side of a horse heading north" (as my dad used to say) caused by the horse's running. The dermous both above and below the shell is shaved off by Horween artisans, and then there are layers and layers of wax and tint worked into the skin. How often, how long and where and for what purpose the horse ran before developing those callouses can have a big effect on how the shell will take the color and processing. It's quite a different storyline than those calves standing around in an Alpine meadow, getting fatted for meat processing and hide removal.

As for another cordovan trunk show -- stay tuned. We'll do it again!

Best,
Paul

 

 

Oh my... I am going to need to make sure my wallet is more prepared this time around so I can get something haha.  Thanks for popping in Paul!

post #61087 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by AllenEdmondsCEO View Post


Hi Patrick -- Nice to see your name come up and thanks for the question. This is interesting to me and I'll relay your feedback to our production leaders...
As for another cordovan trunk show -- stay tuned. We'll do it again!

Best,
Paul

 

And that is yet another reason I buy from AE.  I've never seen a post from Mr. Alden!  Thanks for dropping by Mr. G.

 

On a separate note, I just bought 3 pairs of Patriots for my 16-y.o. son.  He's wearing burgundy Kenwoods now (13 3E!!)  Banking them for the future.  Took a leap of faith on the sizing.  I'll let you know in 2018 if I was correct.

post #61088 of 70737
I love the Mcagregor and Rush Street. I also love the Oak Street.
The suede McGregor sounds like a good choice.
The brown Nuemok is the softest leather of the Neumoks. I'm not sure if I like that or not, so I've steered away from it.
Have you considered the Clark Street?
post #61089 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parrish View Post

I'm looking for some advice for a casual pair or two that's not too casual to be worn with slacks and a button down. In the future, I'll probably buy something like a leather McGregor or Rush Street, but for now I'm looking for any thoughts on the following closeout shoes I don't hear much about: brown distressed neumoks ($139), brown Norwhich ($97 but seen mixed reviews), stone suede McGregor ($157), and chesnut Lubbock ($147)? Any thoughts on what's good or what to avoid of these? Thanks.
I love the Mcagregor and Rush Street. I also love the Oak Street.
The suede McGregor sounds like a good choice.
The brown Nuemok is the softest leather of the Neumoks. I'm not sure if I like that or not, so I've steered away from it.
Have you considered the Clark Street?
post #61090 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by watchidiot View Post


Hi Paul

I'm even more excited with the trunk show! That said I was hoping I could suggest If the order taking process could be improved? I was one of the folks who got their orders taken incorrectly and because of the lack of clear specifications on myinvoice for the 2 pairs I've ordered it took a lot of back and forth to figure out what went wrong. Almost 8mo in, I'm still actually waiting on some trunk show orders. If I could suggest for the next trunk show a similar invoicing system that Allison employs where she states all the SMU specs in the invoice. It's very simple but very effective?
 

@watchidiot - Excellent point above.  I received my last pair of Trunk Show shoes yesterday (brown cordovan Dundees with commando soles).  They are magnificent!  I'll post photos later on the MTO thread.  There is certainly some room for improvement regarding the order taking for the Trunk Show.

post #61091 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by AllenEdmondsCEO View Post
 
As for another cordovan trunk show -- stay tuned. We'll do it again!

 

post #61092 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by AllenEdmondsCEO View Post

Greetings, Style Forum Members!

Well, I see that the Factory Seconds Flash Sale has already caught the attention of many of you. I was originally planning to post midday today on SF to make sure you were aware of it. Instead, I'll just provide some background.

One of the things that shocked me nine years ago when I first became involved with AE is how few shoe companies actually produce the shoes that they sell under their labels. We're one of the remaining few brands that manufacturers for itself (in any country, let alone manufacturers for itself in the USA) and that means we're responsible for our own factory seconds. We've more than doubled our storecount to 54 stores nationwide and our website business is also very active, which means our production of shoes is almost 2.5X what it was 5 years ago. Our percentage "defect rate" has improved in that time frame, but we still have more seconds than our 9 Outlet stores (including the famous ShoeBank) can digest. Next month, our warehouse and distribution team will undertake a major systems change to better manage our greater storecount and volume, so it seemed a good time to clean house and ease the burden of the system transition. Hence, the Factory Seconds Flash Sale; First Time Online.

As you all know and I've often acknowledged, we don't bat 1.000. There's so much handcrafting in our 212+ steps, and the "less processed, more natural" leather hides that we use can also be imperfect in some way (some of which are not noticeable until after lasting the shoe and applying finish), so there's plenty of opportunity for inconsistency. However, we've been at shoemaking in the U.S. since 1922, and we're good at it. Our flaws are often hardly noticeable at normal eye-level, and imperceptible after breaking the shoes in and bumping them around, as a guy often does. So, our Factory Seconds represent a huge bargain and a great way to expand your AE collection -- or start one -- economically.

As always, I thank you very much for your support of Allen Edmonds. We so proud of the men who have made us their shoe company -- leaders in all walks of life around the country and in many parts of the world. It's a honor and privilege to serve you.

Best wishes,
Paul


Wow, this is quite the honor - I thought you only responded to reddit or askandy so I wasn't quite prepared for this.  Anyway, I had a bunch of unrelated questions/comments -

 

1. First and foremost, I wanted to give my absolute highest accolades to the people working at the Freeport outlet store - Ben Sweeney & Laney Johnson.  I think the customer service provided by AE is as important as a high quality product, and I know that every time I have dealt with the Freeport outlet, I have consistently received top-notch customer service.  Absolutely outstanding.  I literally live 30 minutes away from 3 retail stores but continue to have seconds and firsts brought into the outlet (which is 2.5 hours away).

 

2. I have sort of a tough size - small length (7-7.5), narrow width (~C) but a really high problematic arch.  The retail stores, logically, carry items that probably fall within a "bell curve" of what people would want, namely sizes 8 to 12.  I can't ever walk into a  retail store and expect them to stock anything I could possibly wear - it is always a special order.  In addition, I was told that the retail stores would be "cracking down" and doing more checking on what customers brought into stores and what was purchased, etc. and limiting what was brought into the stores for a customer to try on.  I am really reluctant to bring things in - in the past, I have only brought in things I was extremely interested in and almost always made the purchase in the end - on a few rare occasions, I had to pass - sometimes you just don't like the look of the shoes when you finally have them on.  I have always felt uncomfortable by the SAs at the retail stores - they sort of view me as somewhat of a pain.  On the other hand, the outlet has been very accommodating  - while they also don't stock many small sizes, they have brought in as many as nine pairs for me to try (and I always try to purchase between 3 and 4 at least when I visit).  Is there any chance that the retail stores could stock at least one pair in each last in a small size so you could at least get an idea of the fit without special ordering something in, making multiple trips, and potentially not making the purchase in the end?  I currently own 21 pairs of AEs, have tried on many times that amount, but have never tried the 201 last, and as much as I would love to try the Rogue, I really don't want to make the retail store order me in a pair only for me to turn it down.

 

3. I was pretty surprised at the 2nds sale posted to the AE website - are there plans for the retail stores to carry 2nds, or for additional outlet stores to open?  I usually frequent the outlet in Maine but if I recall, the Vermont outlet store closed not so long ago.

 

4. I am the "Lucca & The Player" guy from the AE website reviews and have asked this question on the site but wanted to ask again now.  I love love love the commando lug sole styles - I own the Black Hills, Kiowa, San Marco & Aberdeen but missed out on the Ridgeway.  It was suggested that I look into the Varno - but the 511 last isn't very good for me, too short in length.  Do you know of any other styles coming out similar to those I mentioned?  In the most recent advertisements, I saw the new Leeds, Macneil, Jefferson, Conwallis, Lake Forest and Barlett but didn't see anything resembling the rough collection.

 

5. I think AE's Italian Collection loafers are pretty spectacular, but they rarely fit me, being too long in length.  I have been trying them on forever with no avail - since I take a 7D and they don't go smaller than that, most of the time I am out of luck.  Back when I discovered the Lucca, I loved it so much it was one of the few styles I purchased twice - in both calf and suede.  The Verona is virtually identical, but almost everything else just runs very long.  Are there any plans to produce starting at a 6.5D instead of a 7D :)

 

Thank you so much for taking the time to participate here!  Keep up the great work - I'm trying to convince all my J&M friends to come on board.

post #61093 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parrish View Post
 

I'm looking for some advice for a casual pair or two that's not too casual to be worn with slacks and a button down. In the future, I'll probably buy something like a leather McGregor or Rush Street, but for now I'm looking for any thoughts on the following closeout shoes I don't hear much about: brown distressed neumoks ($139), brown Norwhich ($97 but seen mixed reviews), stone suede McGregor ($157), and chesnut Lubbock ($147)? Any thoughts on what's good or what to avoid of these? Thanks.

IMO  - the brown distressed Neumoks are pretty awesome - they're soft, unstructured, flexible leather, really comfortable, and typical (if not on the larger/roomier side) of the 65 last.  Why didn't I go with them myself?  Definitely not brown - more of a speckled/novelty color, and lighter than I would have preferred.  They are not a dark brown, and you are not going to be able to pass them off for business casual (like you would with the acorn).  So if that works, go for it.

 

Stone suede McGregor you can't lose - if you're good with suede.  If they had those available in my size it would be a no brainer for me.

 

Norwich isn't for everyone - the 222 last, especially in stiff calf like this, can be an issue for most.  A lot of people like the 108 last, the 222 is a derivative of that - for me, the 222 last works, it seems better for high arch people.  But for most, people say it is extremely narrow/tapered in the toebox to the point where they can't stand it.  I'm not a big monk strap / buckle guy or I'd be buying these things up by the dozen, but my guess is that you (and many others) would absolutely hate them.  Hence why they made it down to the crazy low price.

post #61094 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by AllenEdmondsCEO View Post


Hi Patrick -- Nice to see your name come up and thanks for the question. This is interesting to me and I'll relay your feedback to our production leaders. We've actually been taking our finishings UP the glossiness scale, not down, in line with fashion trends. In fact, you'll notice when we introduce our new "Refined Dress" shoes for fall in a couple of months, that we've taken our finishings to the highest level in our history. The samples we've produced look fantastic, and I'm really excited about them and proud of the team that has been working on the new protocols to get them just right. So I'm puzzled as to why your shoes would be more "matted". The only thing I can say is that cordovan is way harder to get consitent than calfskin leathers, due to the nature of the hide and the process involved. Skip and Nick Horween do an amazing job with that leather, as you so well know, but it starts as an intra-dermous callous layer on the proverbial "south side of a horse heading north" (as my dad used to say) caused by the horse's running. The dermous both above and below the shell is shaved off by Horween artisans, and then there are layers and layers of wax and tint worked into the skin. How often, how long and where and for what purpose the horse ran before developing those callouses can have a big effect on how the shell will take the color and processing. It's quite a different storyline than those calves standing around in an Alpine meadow, getting fatted for meat processing and hide removal.

As for another cordovan trunk show -- stay tuned. We'll do it again!

Best,
Paul


Thanks Paul. I appreciate your taking the time to respond. It was a pleasure (for me and my 2 year old son, but he was too busy snoozing at the time) to meet you at the 44th street store back in November.

 

Hmmm. Well, maybe it was just the consistency of some recent batches. Not to worry, I gave them quite a few wears, a little bit of lexol, some VSC, and a lot of elbow grease, and they're all slicked up now. All 3 pairs (brown, burgundy, and natty) are in heavy rotation. I walk between 5 and 10 miles per day when I'm working, and they wear extremely well. 

 

I have noticed the calfskin finishing getting shinier for sure, and my recent oxblood boots are the finest AE calf products I own (and I own quite a few).

 

We have certainly noted the burgundy cordovan color getting darker, closer to Alden's eggplantish version of color 8. 

 

Anyway, thanks again for taking so much time out to interface with us customers here, on AAAC, and Reddit, and for always being open with us about how things work at AE. It's really insightful, and no small part of the reason many of us choose to support the brand.

 

Cheers!

 

PS, here's a pic of my Kenilworths:

 

post #61095 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by mreams99 View Post


I love the Mcagregor and Rush Street. I also love the Oak Street.
The suede McGregor sounds like a good choice.
The brown Nuemok is the softest leather of the Neumoks. I'm not sure if I like that or not, so I've steered away from it.
Have you considered the Clark Street?


+1.  The Rush Street & Oak Street are both great choices.  I have steered clear of the Clark Street since it is on the 108 which I hate, but with the soft CXL it might work for me.

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