Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc...

[masernaut]

I agree that a 4 eyelet would work better, and as long as the shoe creases properly, I'll be fine. I have the Neumora, and get some double creasing due to the elongated 333 last.

UPDATE: Interestingly enough, where most balmorals are lasted with the eyestay touching (if you've ever seen a pair being made, they use a plastic tie to keep the eyestays together while lasting), it seems that the Hanover is lasted with a natural "V".

Interesting on the lasting! But as long as the shoes are comfortable, that's all that matters.

I emailed jville a while ago to ask what last the Saunders were on, and got the following reply: "it is close to our Regent Street, kind of snug in the heel but room in the toe box." Regent appears to be discontinued, but a little searching shows it was on the 4-234 last. Hope that helps. FWIW, I have a pair of Saunders in tan, and love them!!

I'm going to go ahead and disagree with AE in their description. I don't own any shoes on the 4-last, but I advise buying Saunders in a wider width if you normally are a medium width. I don't find the heel any narrower, but the toe box is tight and elongated.

 

[Deviantfish]

Would anyone happen to have any advice on how the 4 last fits compared to the 5 last? I am looking at a reasonably inexpensive pair of AE Ritz for my black tie rig, but was concerned about the sizing (I'm usually a 9D, but the lack of laces makes me wonder if I should size down, depending on how the last fits)

Apologies if this has been asked recently, but I couldn't find it through the search feature.

 

[tifosi]



Would anyone happen to have any advice on how the 4 last fits compared to the 5 last? I am looking at a reasonably inexpensive pair of AE Ritz for my black tie rig, but was concerned about the sizing (I'm usually a 9D, but the lack of laces makes me wonder if I should size down, depending on how the last fits)

Apologies if this has been asked recently, but I couldn't find it through the search feature.

For me, the 4 last fit TTS and I go .5 down on the 5 last. The 4 last in an 8D (which is what I wear on the 5 last) was too short. My toes were cramped. I measure slightly under 8.5 on the Brannock for reference.

 

[masernaut]

My rule of thumb for shoes without laces is to size down half a size. But I would still recommend trying on the shoe as everyone's foot is different.

 

[jungleroller]

Speaking of 3 eyelets. I've been eyeing the Kenilworth Derbs. I've read about their bowing problems which is kinda keeping me from pulling the trigger but I do like their simplicity. Any of you guys have experience with these?

Brown Burnished...


Or maybe in bourbon...

 

[Nakedsnake]

Interesting on the lasting! But as long as the shoes are comfortable, that's all that matters.


I'm going to go ahead and disagree with AE in their description. I don't own any shoes on the 4-last, but I advise buying Saunders in a wider width if you normally are a medium width. I don't find the heel any narrower, but the toe box is tight and elongated.

In my experience (RL Sanderson), I went TTS 12D, the exact same I take on the 1-511 last (Dalton boot) and although the Dalton fits better, the Sanderson fits well. Slightly less room near my baby toe, but that's about it. Overall, very happy with the shoe itself.

 

[BCer]



I believe it's 2 last. 

So do you find that the Saunders fit true to size? I was under the impression that all the RL shoes were narrow in the toe box like AE's 2 last.

They do feel snug across the toebox a bit, but not as much as I get with the McTavish or Strand. I had to go E width on McTavish's.

 

[lint]

Spiaggias today, before the weather gets really cold

 

[ryansto]

Speaking of 3 eyelets. I've been eyeing the Kenilworth Derbs. I've read about their bowing problems which is kinda keeping me from pulling the trigger but I do like their simplicity. Any of you guys have experience with these?

Brown Burnished...


Or maybe in bourbon...

I know the Kenilworth runs slightly larger than other 5 lasted shoes. I haven't heard of any bowing issues, myself. I would think that, being a blucher, there would be less bowing. After all, most of the time bowing is caused by the speading at the throat of a balmoral, because the bottom portion of the eyestays is fixed, and cannot adjust to accomodate the volume at the top, or it is caused by the lack of an arch/instep, causing downward pressure on the upper at the inside of the foot.

Bottom line: I wouldn't expect any excessive bowing from the Kenilworth.

 

[Cold Iron]

How about smell? Does either VSC or Saphire mask that wonderful cordovan smell? Smell is only a slight concern, but I heard that VSC doesn't necessarily smell good while Saphire smells similar to honey. Can anyone comment on this?

In my experience no but I use very little product and seldom use it at that. I can smell turpentine in both of them, or at least believe that I do. I always think of woodworking when I smell either one. Reno has a bit better overall smell to it but that would be a personal opinion only. Like MWS the ingredients are well kept secrets and even MSD sheets aren't telling anything. I have wondered if VSC doesn't use Venice turpentine which comes from the Western Larch tree. But have a feeling that I will never know.

So many things to consider. I do not have any leather conditioner at the moment and have not used anything on any of my shell or CXL yet.
My perfect world solution would be something suitable on shell and CXL that I could physically go somewhere and buy. The only place really local to me would be a Redwing store. I wonder what they would carry?

RW only carries cowhide boot type products, both creams and oils. Mink oil is supplied in more of a grease than an oil and for years in most places around the country we always "greased" our boots. I had heard from the old timers that bear fat or other animal tallow was used and that is where the term grease came from. Not sure I would want to use rancid fat on my boots when stalking a grizzly with a bow though. It wasn't until I moved to the Midwest that I heard people talk about oiling their boots and Red Wing Shoes have a lot to do with that. Wednesday I was at one of our sites in Red Wing, Mn. all day and after the work day was done the 4 of us stopped at the local microbrewery to check out the latest wares. And I couldn't resist taking this picture inside:

You can still purchase the Red Wing Shoe Oil and many people around here still use it on boots.

You can get VSC from most AE outlets for ~$5 IIRC. Reno is going to be a lot more expensive and some feel it is worth it.

 

[yoose]

Hi All,

Could someone kindly share how to get on the email list for the shoebank sales? thank you.

 

[Cold Iron]

I know the Kenilworth runs slightly larger than other 5 lasted shoes. I haven't heard of any bowing issues, myself. I would think that, being a blucher, there would be less bowing. After all, most of the time bowing is caused by the speading at the throat of a balmoral, because the bottom portion of the eyestays is fixed, and cannot adjust to accomodate the volume at the top, or it is caused by the lack of an arch/instep, causing downward pressure on the upper at the inside of the foot.

Bottom line: I wouldn't expect any excessive bowing from the Kenilworth.

On the other hand bowing can occur in any last and any shoe regardless of bal or blucher. I tried 3 times over a years time to get a pair of Bradley's (blucher on 1 last) made that didn't bow without success.

While foot volume can play a role in bowing (and in most cases think it does) it does seem that bowing runs in streaks, especially with certain shoes and you can measure it across the topline. You never know until you get the shoe if yours is going to have it or not when it comes to major bowing which is a result of lasting. The good news is you can return them easily enough and try again, it is AE and the best CS I have ever seen. They will get it right for you and if it is a shoe you really like worth at least trying.

I still haven't given up on the Bradley and will eventually try again. Although with all the recent great pictures of black shell I am thinking the Portland in black shell would satisfy my need for a NST. And a boot in black shell. I blame SBear and many others on here

 

[SBear]

Bayfield from Lands' End arrived today. Really disappointed. Crack on lateral right wall that seems to go all the way through (there is a corresponding crack on the inside). And, they've been worn so much they have creases, including in the cap on the left. Ridiculous they don't clearly state the shoes are not of new status.

 

[ryansto]

Well said, CI.

 

[cincikid]

Hi All,

Could someone kindly share how to get on the email list for the shoebank sales? thank you.

There's no list that would be periodically sent to you, like the list of Aldens on "Theshoemart.com." You have to call or email [email protected] or any other outlet, such as Jeffersonville, Ohio or Freeport, Maine.