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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc... - Page 3635  

post #54511 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by garland View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by delmar View Post
 


I'm just the opposite.  I like the welts and the double sole clunkiness of the Norwich.  The sleeker looking Franciscan doesn't appeal to me at all.  I will keep an eye out for this new Warwick.  

 

If the 222 last is what most people seem to have a problem with, maybe AE should make a double sole, split reverse welt monk strap on the same last that the Mctavish uses.  The McTavish doesn't seem to get a lot of complaints about the fit.

 

Im with you! I really like the aesthetic of the reverse welt, etc on the Norwich. Like @NWTeal mentioned, there's a new single monk coming soon called the Warwick. It'll be built on a new last. Looking forward to seeing how it fits for sure. 

 

Kyle 

 

New last meaning brand new, or new last meaning existing last but not the 2 last?

post #54512 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by halfnhalfnhalf View Post

New last meaning brand new, or new last meaning existing last but not the 2 last?
Based on my lurking at AAAC, brand new last. I think @Watchman1 is the one who posted over there about it. Has a photo too, I think.
post #54513 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by bl@ster View Post

So I scooped up these shell AE Fairgate's on Ebay. Being that my workplace is extremely casual and I can't resisit the antique welt, I decided to take them to my local cobbler (Choi Shoe Repair in Seattle) to have the blind eyelets replaced with exposed and to sand the edge and apply neutral dressing for a contrast look. Here are the before and afters:

Before:
Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, z1.1.0. ||B2
Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, z1.1.0. ||B2
Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, z1.1.0. ||B2

After:


How did you go about asking for edges like that? Is it as simple as telling them to sand down the existing welt dressing and having them apply a clear/natural dressing? It looks like there's a tiny to the natural portion of the edge.
post #54514 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by halfnhalfnhalf View Post
 

 

New last meaning brand new, or new last meaning existing last but not the 2 last?

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by NWTeal View Post


Based on my lurking at AAAC, brand new last. I think @Watchman1 is the one who posted over there about it. Has a photo too, I think.

 

 

A brand new last. Its the 201 last that the First Avenue boot was made on briefly in the fall. I think theres 3 new lasts coming this year.

 

Kyle

post #54515 of 70737

Arg, I hate my first post to be a negative one.  Ive been a long time lurker, but just recently thought I'd post.  As background, I have several custom made shoes, so I know what to expect from mass produced leather goods at a $3-400 price point, but Ive had quite a time trying to get some first quality shoes directly from the AE stores.  I wear a non-stocked size so they have all come from the factory, but either I am unlucky or there is no quality control for shoes getting shipped out direct to customers vice ones destined to be shown off in the stores.

 

I first bought a pair of fifth ave in bourbon, which showed up in two different colors (right shoe tiger striped and much darker on the sides with loose vamp grain, and the left one is really nice). I noticed the difference in about 4 seconds, the picture isn't as definitive, but in natural light its obvious.   So I called up and said this is unsat, to which they said they would make me another pair in 4 weeks.  But I needed them before a trip, so I asked if there was anything anywhere in my size.  Only two to choose from in all of the inventory.  I opt for a brown park ave, they ship it, and they look good on visual inspection, but as soon as I put them on, it is obvious the tongue is out of whack.  

 

Im not expecting exquisitely perfect shoes, but come on man.

 

Ive also posted of picture of my blue Neumoks that ARE actually seconds and they have the same tongue issues as the park avenue.  I expect that on seconds i buy on extra sale, not for full price -  from the factory - shoes.

 

Bourbon Fifth Ave with color issues and loose grain

 

Park Ave with tongue issue

 

Seconds Neumoks with same tongue issue (expected on seconds)

post #54516 of 70737
@owl06 that stinks and without selecting a pair from a store I would never order a pair on a timeframe do to QC issues. Sadly that is the reality...when they are right they are a great value and that is the plus side...negative is sometimes it takes some work to get a great pair. Sounds like you know shoes however I would suggest maybe going down a half size in length and a width wider...those v gaps are how mine used to look until I dialed in my size better on AE lasts.
post #54517 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kahuna75 View Post

@owl06 that stinks and without selecting a pair from a store I would never order a pair on a timeframe do to QC issues. Sadly that is the reality...when they are right they are a great value and that is the plus side...negative is sometimes it takes some work to get a great pair. Sounds like you know shoes however I would suggest maybe going down a half size in length and a width wider...those v gaps are how mine used to look until I dialed in my size better on AE lasts.

Can't the gaps also be due to shoes that are too short? And thus rectified by sizing up 0.5 in length?
post #54518 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kahuna75 View Post

@owl06 I would suggest maybe going down a half size in length and a width wider...those v gaps are how mine used to look until I dialed in my size better on AE lasts.
+1. Not sure about length but those shoes are certainly not wide enough. I'd go up at least one width, maybe more, as all three of those pairs are way too narrow for you.
post #54519 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackboot View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kahuna75 View Post

@owl06 that stinks and without selecting a pair from a store I would never order a pair on a timeframe do to QC issues. Sadly that is the reality...when they are right they are a great value and that is the plus side...negative is sometimes it takes some work to get a great pair. Sounds like you know shoes however I would suggest maybe going down a half size in length and a width wider...those v gaps are how mine used to look until I dialed in my size better on AE lasts.

Can't the gaps also be due to shoes that are too short? And thus rectified by sizing up 0.5 in length?

 

Yes  I would think that could be the case ...I should have specified on the 65 last I go from a 13E to a 12eee to get the right fit...thats why I suggested going down...they do not do 12.5 so I go a full size down.

post #54520 of 70737

Sounds like sizing is a moving target.  I have really high arches and based on the sizing chart for AE I am a 12.5 B.  The B sizing is too narrow so I opted for the C.  The salesman put me in a 12C for that fifth ave and park ave shown above saying that they run long.  It wasn't an issue of selling me something he had in stock because both of them were made/shipped from factory.

 

The neumoks are 12D and even when cross lacing and really tightening them down, they have the same gap as the other two, but it doesn't bother me as much with a more casual shoe.  

 

I was just on another trip so i stopped in to a separate AE store and they recommended a 12.5C or an in-stock 13B vice the 12C shown above.  However, the gap is still there even on the 13B (but not as pronounced?).  I attribute it more to my large arches, which I thought the 5 last was supposed to accommodate the best.  Guess I'll just have to keep shooting for not only the right size but also shoes that are first condition.  Tiresome.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone


Edited by owl06 - 1/25/15 at 12:42pm
post #54521 of 70737
owl06, I also measure a C-width. However, after a lot of trial and error, I've decided that I can fit a D-width very well by simply sizing down one-half size. This has the definite advantage of not having to place custom orders as well as being able to take advantage of a much wider selection of seconds inventory. Based on the amount of gap that you have due to your high arches, you might also benefit from a better fit in an appropriate length D-width. Have you given this a try?
post #54522 of 70737
My feet are size 10.5 C on the Brannock device, and 10 E on the 5 last fits my feet perfectly (ball of my feet align on the widest part of the shoes and 1/2 inch allowance on the toe area) and allows me to wear semi-thick socks comfortly.
post #54523 of 70737

To all my East Coast Mid Atlantic and North peeps....STAY SAFE over the next few days....Got my Long Branches ready for Monday to work and my Columbia all weather beasts ready for Monday night and Tuesday.

post #54524 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyBoy920 View Post

How did you go about asking for edges like that? Is it as simple as telling them to sand down the existing welt dressing and having them apply a clear/natural dressing? It looks like there's a tiny to the natural portion of the edge.

I just asked him to sand down the black edge dressing and apply neutral/transparent edge dressing. There is a slight brown tint to them, yes.
post #54525 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by owl06 View Post

Sounds like sizing is a moving target.  I have really high arches and based on the sizing chart for AE I am a 12.5 B.  The B sizing is too narrow so I opted for the C.  The salesman put me in a 12C for that fifth ave and park ave shown above saying that they run long.  It wasn't an issue of selling me something he had in stock because both of them were made/shipped from factory.

The neumoks are 12D and even when cross lacing and really tightening them down, they have the same gap as the other two, but it doesn't bother me as much with a more casual shoe.  

I was just on another trip so i stopped in to a separate AE store and they recommended a 12.5C or an in-stock 13B vice the 12C shown above.  However, the gap is still there even on the 13B (but not as pronounced?).  I attribute it more to my large arches, which I thought the 5 last was supposed to accommodate the best.  Guess I'll just have to keep shooting for not only the right size but also shoes that are first condition.  Tiresome.

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone

A couple observations on this.

The brannock device gives you a very vague starting point, especially when it comes to what the right worth is. There's so many factors that come into play like a high instep, flat feet, fleshy feet, bony feet, bunions, etc., its impossible to gauge width purely off of a 2D measurement.

The 5 last on 95% of guys is going to have a slight to moderate gap in the laces. Generally speaking, if it laces closed all the way, its too big. This gives you room for adjustment as the shoe breaks in. I can't say for sure but I tend to agree with the prior comments, you need to go a width wider to give your instep more room, or try going to a blucher.

Kyle
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