or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc...
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc... - Page 3631  

post #54451 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheuk View Post

Ok, I tried this on the general Q&A but no love, and I thought, why not try on my favorite thread...  To respect the thread and convey my true love of AE, I have crossed out shows that I might or might not actually have, and put the closest AE model that an AE-fan purer than myself would have.

So... I need to purge at least three pairs of shoes from this lineup (guess why).  I'm having trouble so coming to you for some wise insight.


At work I am generally business casual, wear a suit (either navy or charcoal) occasionally.  Jeans and cords on weekends.

Black Captoe Bal (AE Park Ave)
Merlot Wingtip Bals (AE McAlister)
burgundy Shell cordovan Plain Toe Bluchers (AE Leeds)
burgundy Shell cordovan long wings (old Florsheims) (AE MacNeil)
burgundy Shell Cordovan Penny Loafers (Alden LHS) (AE Patriot)
Brown captoe bluchers (Alden for BB) (AE Lexington)
Walnut "medallion perforated captoe" bals  (Alfred Sargent for BB) (this in walnut) (Slightly less embellished AE Strand)
this weird kiltie monkstrap that for some reason I can't get myself to return (C&J for black fleece, talk me out of it please, they're new and unworn still) (http://www.brooksbrothers.com/Dark-Brown-Kiltie-Wingtip/FH00035,default,pd.html) (AE Montague???)

What shoed go?

Florsheims, Walnut captoes and CJ kiltie monks.

You're welcome! wink.gif
post #54452 of 70737
Rocking my favorite casual-ish AEs, and also my inaugural pair, the chili calf/grain Regent Street.

Love chili, and not just because I'm Texan. I really dig how they appear brown indoors, but red in direct sunlight (swoon)


post #54453 of 70737
I got to say the same color but changing texture on those is pretty rad.
post #54454 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheuk View Post

Ok, I tried this on the general Q&A but no love, and I thought, why not try on my favorite thread...  To respect the thread and convey my true love of AE, I have crossed out shows that I might or might not actually have, and put the closest AE model that an AE-fan purer than myself would have.

So... I need to purge at least three pairs of shoes from this lineup (guess why).  I'm having trouble so coming to you for some wise insight.


At work I am generally business casual, wear a suit (either navy or charcoal) occasionally.  Jeans and cords on weekends.

Black Captoe Bal (AE Park Ave)
Merlot Wingtip Bals (AE McAlister)
burgundy Shell cordovan Plain Toe Bluchers (AE Leeds)
burgundy Shell cordovan long wings (old Florsheims) (AE MacNeil)
burgundy Shell Cordovan Penny Loafers (Alden LHS) (AE Patriot)
Brown captoe bluchers (Alden for BB) (AE Lexington)
Walnut "medallion perforated captoe" bals  (Alfred Sargent for BB) (this in walnut) (Slightly less embellished AE Strand)
this weird kiltie monkstrap that for some reason I can't get myself to return (C&J for black fleece, talk me out of it please, they're new and unworn still) (http://www.brooksbrothers.com/Dark-Brown-Kiltie-Wingtip/FH00035,default,pd.html) (AE Montague???)

What shoed go?

I'd definitely return that kiltie wingtip monkstrap monstrosity.
post #54455 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by peppercorn78 View Post

Rocking my favorite casual-ish AEs, and also my inaugural pair, the chili calf/grain Regent Street.

Love chili, and not just because I'm Texan. I really dig how they appear brown indoors, but red in direct sunlight (swoon)
 

I am wearing mine today as well. Before I got them I was a little dubious about the mixture of textures, but once I saw them in person I was hooked. As you said, it is a great casual-ish shoe. 

post #54456 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdubs View Post

I got to say the same color but changing texture on those is pretty rad.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wood View Post

I am wearing mine today as well. Before I got them I was a little dubious about the mixture of textures, but once I saw them in person I was hooked. As you said, it is a great casual-ish shoe. 

Thanks gentlemen. I agree the dual texture effect is really killing. Anyone out there down for a chil calf/grain Dalton gmto wink.gif

The 4 last is rather tricky, being so narrow for a LWB. Ended up going up .5 in length. With a tongue pad, I got a perfect fit. Mine will need a resole soon. Wondering if the last is too sleek for a double sole?
post #54457 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by mw313 View Post


They are correct in that you should always follow the heel to ball length because that is the most important part of the fit in terms of length. That is where our foot bends and should go with the same part of the shoe which helps you in propulsion of your gait as well as protects both your feet and the shoes integrity. Don't foget that the shank is under the arch part of the shoe so if your for doesn't bend with the shank you can damage the shoe or even cause harm to your foot over time.

You should only use overall length as a guide unless it is longer than your heel to ball. you may have to increase the shoe length because it also isn't good to not have enough room at the front of your shoe. The "rule of thumb" literally applies here in terms of a thumbs width. Some like a little less and some even like a bit more. If the heel to ball length is substantially longer than the relationship to overall length, the only problem if the shoe is way too long in front of the toes. Then there may be more wear on the front of the shoe's outsole.

My heel to ball is a full size longer than my overall length so I can wear a whole size different from one last to another within AE alone. I wear a 14 in the 5 last but a 15 in the 7 last due to the tighter toe.

That is why you need to go by heel to ball first and overall length second. Just learn your sizes in each last that works for your foot.
That is just length. Width and volume are actually even more complicated so that can be saved for another time because it was tough enough to type all of this from my iPhone.

 

 

Not replying directly, but wanted to follow up on my fitment. 

 

I am used to much wider shaped shoes than the 65 last is designed to be. I put on a different pair of more casual "dress" shoes and lo and behold and some other cliches, the toe was an inch away from my big toe. I just simply hadn't paid attention to it before.

 

So I'm confident the Neumok's are sized properly and they are exceptionally comfy in suede. I think I'll hang  on to them and wear them as soon as temps reliably stay above 40. Maybe 45.

post #54458 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by peppercorn78 View Post


This is all good info, but I have to point out that AE shoes don't contain shanks. I learned this in a recent Reddit with Paul Grangaard. The invention of a shankless shoe manufacturing process was one of the company's founding ideas. Paul says they experimented with adding shanks in the now defunct "executive collection" years ago, but ultimately discontinued their use.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheuk View Post
 

Ok, I tried this on the general Q&A but no love, and I thought, why not try on my favorite thread...  To respect the thread and convey my true love of AE, I have crossed out shows that I might or might not actually have, and put the closest AE model that an AE-fan purer than myself would have.

 

So... I need to purge at least three pairs of shoes from this lineup (guess why).  I'm having trouble so coming to you for some wise insight.

 

At work I am generally business casual, wear a suit (either navy or charcoal) occasionally.  Jeans and cords on weekends.

 

Black Captoe Bal (AE Park Ave)

Merlot Wingtip Bals (AE McAlister)

burgundy Shell cordovan Plain Toe Bluchers (AE Leeds)

burgundy Shell cordovan long wings (old Florsheims) (AE MacNeil)

burgundy Shell Cordovan Penny Loafers (Alden LHS) (AE Patriot)

Brown captoe bluchers (Alden for BB) (AE Lexington)

Walnut "medallion perforated captoe" bals  (Alfred Sargent for BB) (this in walnut) (Slightly less embellished AE Strand)

this weird kiltie monkstrap that for some reason I can't get myself to return (C&J for black fleece, talk me out of it please, they're new and unworn still) (http://www.brooksbrothers.com/Dark-Brown-Kiltie-Wingtip/FH00035,default,pd.html) (AE Montague???)

 

What shoed go?

(1) Return the kiltie monkstrap.  I'd have a hard time parting with anything else, particularly the shell, and the other colors cover the spectrum.  (2) I love my wingtip bals, even though some believe them to be a style clash. Your medallion cap toe bals, long wings and multiple burgundy shells offer several options to wear in situations where those would be worn, so those would be the next out on my list. That's assuming the Florsheim long wings are made in the USA Imperials; if not, I'd consider eBaying those and keeping the wingtips. (3) Unless you frequently wear pants that match brown, but won't match #8, the cap toe bluchers are next.  

post #54459 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by peppercorn78 View Post

This is all good info, but I have to point out that AE shoes don't contain shanks. I learned this in a recent Reddit with Paul Grangaard. The invention of a shankless shoe manufacturing process was one of the company's founding ideas. Paul says they experimented with adding shanks in the now defunct "executive collection" years ago, but ultimately discontinued their use.

Quote:
Originally Posted by garland View Post

EDIT: @peppercorn78
beat me to it.

AE actually doesn't use shanks in construction. The structure of the shoe comes from the 360 degree goodyear welt. Everything else you said is correct though smile.gif


Kyle

Thanks for the info but yes I know that AE doesn't use shanks. I have read the post from Paul Grangaard in the past. That is how AE was founded.
What I was doing was just explaining the general things for him to look at for fit in terms of length. Just about all other "nice" shoe brands use a shank (SS, fiberglass, wood, etc.) but AE uses the 360 degree welt (instead of the 270 degree that most others use) to keep the shoe together in a different way while reducing break in time.

Thanks for the info and please don't take this he wrong way, but I think he cares a bit more about proper fit of his shoes at this point even though this is an AE thread.
post #54460 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheuk View Post

Ok, I tried this on the general Q&A but no love, and I thought, why not try on my favorite thread...  To respect the thread and convey my true love of AE, I have crossed out shows that I might or might not actually have, and put the closest AE model that an AE-fan purer than myself would have.

So... I need to purge at least three pairs of shoes from this lineup (guess why).  I'm having trouble so coming to you for some wise insight.


At work I am generally business casual, wear a suit (either navy or charcoal) occasionally.  Jeans and cords on weekends.

Black Captoe Bal (AE Park Ave)
Merlot Wingtip Bals (AE McAlister)
burgundy Shell cordovan Plain Toe Bluchers (AE Leeds)
burgundy Shell cordovan long wings (old Florsheims) (AE MacNeil)
burgundy Shell Cordovan Penny Loafers (Alden LHS) (AE Patriot)
Brown captoe bluchers (Alden for BB) (AE Lexington)
Walnut "medallion perforated captoe" bals  (Alfred Sargent for BB) (this in walnut) (Slightly less embellished AE Strand)
this weird kiltie monkstrap that for some reason I can't get myself to return (C&J for black fleece, talk me out of it please, they're new and unworn still) (http://www.brooksbrothers.com/Dark-Brown-Kiltie-Wingtip/FH00035,default,pd.html) (AE Montague???)

What shoed go?

Those kiltie things have way too much going on, even though I think it would be cool to have Black Fleece. I also vote to axe the penny loafer. Shell is of course great, but that style is the go to for those who lack any. I like the look of dress or semi-dress shoes with casual pants.
post #54461 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by mry8s View Post


Not replying directly, but wanted to follow up on my fitment. 

I am used to much wider shaped shoes than the 65 last is designed to be. I put on a different pair of more casual "dress" shoes and lo and behold and some other cliches, the toe was an inch away from my big toe. I just simply hadn't paid attention to it before.

So I'm confident the Neumok's are sized properly and they are exceptionally comfy in suede. I think I'll hang  on to them and wear them as soon as temps reliably stay above 40. Maybe 45.

Great! If you have any other questions please feel free to ask us all. We are a team here.
post #54462 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheuk View Post
 

Ok, I tried this on the general Q&A but no love, and I thought, why not try on my favorite thread...  To respect the thread and convey my true love of AE, I have crossed out shows that I might or might not actually have, and put the closest AE model that an AE-fan purer than myself would have.

 

So... I need to purge at least three pairs of shoes from this lineup (guess why).  I'm having trouble so coming to you for some wise insight.

 

At work I am generally business casual, wear a suit (either navy or charcoal) occasionally.  Jeans and cords on weekends.

 

Black Captoe Bal (AE Park Ave)

Merlot Wingtip Bals (AE McAlister)

burgundy Shell cordovan Plain Toe Bluchers (AE Leeds)

burgundy Shell cordovan long wings (old Florsheims) (AE MacNeil)

burgundy Shell Cordovan Penny Loafers (Alden LHS) (AE Patriot)

Brown captoe bluchers (Alden for BB) (AE Lexington)

Walnut "medallion perforated captoe" bals  (Alfred Sargent for BB) (this in walnut) (Slightly less embellished AE Strand)

this weird kiltie monkstrap that for some reason I can't get myself to return (C&J for black fleece, talk me out of it please, they're new and unworn still) (http://www.brooksbrothers.com/Dark-Brown-Kiltie-Wingtip/FH00035,default,pd.html) (AE Montague???)

 

What shoed go?

 

Hah! I am guessing a significant other is somehow connected to this...

 

Here is what I would go for.

 

Keep Pile:

  1. Black Captoe Bal (AE Park Ave)
  2. burgundy Shell cordovan long wings (old Florsheims) (AE MacNeil)
  3. burgundy Shell Cordovan Penny Loafers (Alden LHS) (AE Patriot)
  4. Brown captoe bluchers (Alden for BB) (AE Lexington)
  5. Walnut "medallion perforated captoe" bals  (Alfred Sargent for BB) (this in walnut) (Slightly less embellished AE Strand)

 

Go Pile:

  • Merlot Wingtip Bals (AE McAlister)
  • burgundy Shell cordovan Plain Toe Bluchers (AE Leeds)
  • this weird kiltie monkstrap that for some reason I can't get myself to return (C&J for black fleece) (AE Montague???)

 

Then you have a nice mix of brogue-ing, colors, and plain-ness. Also 1 and 2 are great for suits. 2, 3, 4, and 5 are good with slacks or casual attire (jeans or cords).

 

Just my two cents.

 

The only thing that I may do here is change number 4 into a Brown (Shell ;-)) Plain Toe Blucher if you like PTBs. That way you still have a versatile shoe that is brown and you keep the plain toe for a day in which you want simple and no distractions on your feet.

 

As requested, I do not like that kiltie at all, it is way out of my taste range. I also don't know how anyone would pair that (and look good). But I am sure there are peeps who can. Just not me.

 

-Mike

post #54463 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkside View Post
 

I stopped by the Madison and 44th St. store the other day and the SA (who was the manager) scoffed when I told him I like shoes in the 8 last, stating that, "they don't really talk in terms of lasts anymore." What does that even mean?


I believe, what the associate was trying to convey is this (drawing on my own experience): Often times, customers assume that they can only wear one specific last, thereby limiting their options. What we (AE employees) sometimes make an effort to get across is most guys can wear numerous, if not all of our lasts. They may have to adjust sizes in different lasts, but they really aren't limited to one last.

 

I only have to explain this when a customer comes in stating, "The 8 last is the only one that fits me..." I may try to explain to this gentleman that, while the 8 last is the best for him in a 9D, he may very well be able to wear a 5-lasted shoe in a 8.5E, or the 678 in a 8.5D, or the 222 in a 9.5D, etc...

 

Again, just speaking for myself, and not all AE employees. I hope this helps ease your mind Re: the level of knowledge of AE employees.

 

Ryan

post #54464 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by ryansto View Post


I believe, what the associate was trying to convey is this (drawing on my own experience): Often times, customers assume that they can only wear one specific last, thereby limiting their options. What we (AE employees) sometimes make an effort to get across is most guys can wear numerous, if not all of our lasts. They may have to adjust sizes in different lasts, but they really aren't limited to one last.

I only have to explain this when a customer comes in stating, "The 8 last is the only one that fits me..." I may try to explain to this gentleman that, while the 8 last is the best for him in a 9D, he may very well be able to wear a 5-lasted shoe in a 8.5E, or the 678 in a 8.5D, or the 222 in a 9.5D, etc...

Again, just speaking for myself, and not all AE employees. I hope this helps ease your mind Re: the level of knowledge of AE employees.

Ryan

Ryan, I agree with you. I have a whole "dance" of sizes that I utilize for different lasts. I highly highly recommend going to a large retail store and trying on a whole slew of lengths and widths in your size ballpark to see which fit feels the best. I always try to do this "blind" not knowing the sizes, so that I don't introduce a bias. I will say this takes a very awesome and patient sales rep to do. But they exist. ;-)

The only exception I have found are loafers. Sometimes a persons instep precludes them from wearing certain loafer models. It is a 3 dimensional problem and a high instep or low instep can not be compensated by tightly or loosely tying the laces on a loafer.

-Mike
post #54465 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by mw313 View Post


Great! If you have any other questions please feel free to ask us all. We are a team here.

Me again, sorry.  I tried wearing my Jermyns again on two other occasions, like 11+ hours/day, mixed walking + sitting behind a desk each time with crew socks that made the shoes uncomfortably tight.  Each time by the end of the day my right big toe (incl. joint) became swollen to the point where I was practically limping.  When it has settled down enough I had planned to give the Jermyns another try using some kind of thinner dress socks (i.e. what I would normally wear with them) to see if they have stretched any more.  I mentioned this in the retail store and they offered to try to stretch them for me.  Also called the customer service number who said to take them to a cobbler as they didn't think the retail store would be too effective.  As you can probably tell, I love these things and don't want to give up on them.  What do you think - take them to a cobbler or continue to try to stretch them myself with the thick socks (as long as I can endure the pain).  I feel like if I could just stretch out the right shoe a little bit they would be perfect - really annoying.  At least I didn't order the Westchester at the same time as these like I planned to do.

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
This thread is locked  
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc...