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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc... - Page 3335  

post #50011 of 70737
I'm sure this has been asked before so I apologize for the repeated question. Can someone shed some light on sizing advice for 5-lasted bluchers as compared to balmorals? I've read elsewhere you don't have to go as wide in the bluchers as you do on balmorals.
post #50012 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by tradbrah View Post

I'm sure this has been asked before so I apologize for the repeated question. Can someone shed some light on sizing advice for 5-lasted bluchers as compared to balmorals? I've read elsewhere you don't have to go as wide in the bluchers as you do on balmorals.

 

I wear 12eee on the 65 bal and 12e on the 65 blucher.....my true size lies between 12.5 E and 13 E

post #50013 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mean Mr Mustard View Post

 

This came up at AAAC a short time ago; here's Paul's response from that thread:

 

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?190237-Mainline-AE-Not-Fully-Produced-in-the-USA&p=1587117#post1587117

 



It was good of him to clarify. I had certainly been operating under the misapprehension that there was no DR production involved in any mainline shoes.
post #50014 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by NWTeal View Post

Alden's suede is much more supple and soft than AE's. I wonder if AE uses split suede. Also, I believe Alden uses an acrylic coating on their shell giving it that nice shine. The quality of the shell is the same, seeing as they are both Horween and I believe Horween has refuted claims that certain makers get a better grade or anything like that. The preference in the shell is entirely personal. 

My understanding is that a lot of the cutting and clicking might be done in the DR but final construction is done in Port Washington. This may have changed since Paul was on SF to explain. However, this probably contributes to some of the sloppiness we see on some AE firsts. 

I am not saying AE buys the cheaper or crappier shells as I don't believe that to be the case, but Horween sells multiple grades of their shells at different price points. Also, AE has started mimicing Alden by putting on a more acrylic finish on their shells as well. But yes, a lot of the big brands buy their shell from Horween, like AE, Alden, C&J, etc.
post #50015 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdubs View Post


I am not saying AE buys the cheaper or crappier shells as I don't believe that to be the case, but Horween sells multiple grades of their shells at different price points. Also, AE has started mimicing Alden by putting on a more acrylic finish on their shells as well. But yes, a lot of the big brands buy their shell from Horween, like AE, Alden, C&J, etc.

 

I think we're both right in that there are different grades, but I believe they refer only to the size of the shell and are of equal quality. 

 

See this interview: http://bestleather.org/all-about-shell-cordovan-with-horween-leather-co/

post #50016 of 70737

To everybody who shared their opinion on the shell Daltons I received with the imperfection on the medallion, I just wanted to say thank you. It was all appreciated, and as I said before, I was leaning on keeping them. That still stands; I've decided to keep them for several reasons. These will not get passed off as seconds, so even if I were to exchange them, what's going to happen to the next person who receives them as firsts? I know I should be selfish in a $725 purchase, but in the end you guys have made me realize it's not something to ruin my day over.

 

It's also just a small error on the medallion, which only few people noticed (VERY FEW) when I asked what they think about the boot, and if they said nothing I followed it with "you don't see anything wrong with it at all?" @Kahuna75 I'd love to fix the problem by rounding off the hole, but I fear putting anything in contact with my shoes other than shoe care products and my feet. That being said, I still am thankful for your opinion and advice.

 

Receiving another pair after waiting several weeks, and having the chance of it being even worse is just a terrible thought for me. But, it's also a great thought; it pushes toward my opinion more to keep the boots. I know several people said they would not keep these boots at all, especially paying full price for firsts, but these are still considered firsts, whether we like it or not. I'm glad to see there were other people who shared my same opinion on disliking the imperfection as first, but I'm also glad that those who told me not to worry about it came forward.

 

Thank you all, and I'll post pictures of them in action over the next few weeks. 

post #50017 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by NWTeal View Post

 

I think we're both right in that there are different grades, but I believe they refer only to the size of the shell and are of equal quality. 

 

See this interview: http://bestleather.org/all-about-shell-cordovan-with-horween-leather-co/

 



That was my understanding. If Horween makes good / better / best grades of shell, it would be news to me.
post #50018 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by NWTeal View Post
 

 

Alden's suede is much more supple and soft than AE's. I wonder if AE uses split suede. Also, I believe Alden uses an acrylic coating on their shell giving it that nice shine. The quality of the shell is the same, seeing as they are both Horween and I believe Horween has refuted claims that certain makers get a better grade or anything like that. The preference in the shell is entirely personal.

 

My understanding is that a lot of the cutting and clicking might be done in the DR but final construction is done in Port Washington. This may have changed since Paul was on SF to explain. However, this probably contributes to some of the sloppiness we see on some AE firsts.

I doubt AE uses split suede, but I agree it's not high quality.  I wanted a pair of suede strands until I saw them in person.  Ended up getting a pair of Carmina suede shoes instead and the difference in the quality of suede is significant.

post #50019 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by tradbrah View Post

I'm sure this has been asked before so I apologize for the repeated question. Can someone shed some light on sizing advice for 5-lasted bluchers as compared to balmorals? I've read elsewhere you don't have to go as wide in the bluchers as you do on balmorals.

 

If your blutchers don't close up nicely, it's not an issue... if your bals don't, it might look like the shoe is overstuffed.

 

That said, I also have found that bals feel much tighter, even if I don't try and close the lacing. Fit issues, if there are any, seem to be worse with bals. Having wide feet, I generally find blutchers much more comfortable.

 

Speaking of... I'm thinking of offloading a Walnut Strand and a Black 5th Avenue, both in 11E. They're just too narrow.

post #50020 of 70737
Casual Friday with older model burgundy shell Leeds

post #50021 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by peppercorn78 View Post

People act like paying $725 for cordovan is somehow going to get you a different level of craftsmanship from what goes into $385 calf shoes.

It's the same workers punching the same patterns with the same tools. The price differential goes straight to the cost of the more expensive leather.

 

Technically, as we've been discussing, the same workers may NOT be punching the same patterns. The pattern punching for uppers seems to happen in the DR for the non-independence calf shoes. There is an argument to be made that each factory might do different things better. This could make Cordovan shoes better constructed, being built in PW, or even worse...

 

For instance, I might suppose that the QA for leather selection for uppers may be better in the PW, but that they may not be as attentive to detail stitching as in the DR, especially where it comes to hand-stitching. For example, the Cordovan Kenwood seems to be the only hand-sewn shoe made in PW, so is it really going to be as well-constructed as the calf Kenwood which is hand-sewn in the DR where all the other hand-sewn uppers are crafted? I don't know the answer to this, but I do suspect there is a difference here in construction quality and attention to detail, one way or another.

post #50022 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

I doubt AE uses split suede, but I agree it's not high quality.  I wanted a pair of suede strands until I saw them in person.  Ended up getting a pair of Carmina suede shoes instead and the difference in the quality of suede is significant.

I had a similar experience , I was considering ordering a snuff Gobi from the RDA sale but saw a suede Strand at Macys and the suede looked cheap , not impressed at all.
post #50023 of 70737

Fullerton - Snuff Suede

 

 

 

Fifth Ave - Bitter Chocolate Suede

 

post #50024 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by epc2 View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

I doubt AE uses split suede, but I agree it's not high quality.  I wanted a pair of suede strands until I saw them in person.  Ended up getting a pair of Carmina suede shoes instead and the difference in the quality of suede is significant.

I had a similar experience , I was considering ordering a snuff Gobi from the RDA sale but saw a suede Strand at Macys and the suede looked cheap , not impressed at all.

 

I do not have much to compare to other than a pair of Rancourt's I received and I did think the Rancourt was better than my AE suede. However just read in another thread on SF of a few people having problems with Carmina's suede too. Anyway my Strands, Neumok's and Spiaggio in AE suede are fine and I do not consider suede a lifetime purchase. The only time I would consider a $500 suede purchase is if I was wearing them weekly without fail...however in my rotation any shoe I get is lucky to get worn once every two to three weeks in the non summer months.

 

I thought the Gobi was fine in person and the price is great....

post #50025 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post
 

I doubt AE uses split suede, but I agree it's not high quality.  I wanted a pair of suede strands until I saw them in person.  Ended up getting a pair of Carmina suede shoes instead and the difference in the quality of suede is significant.


I'm not sure this is true as a rule.  The samples Allison sent to me for my MTO make-up were as nice as anything I've seen elsewhere, as were the eventual suede side panels on my MTO Shaker Heights.  I did notice variation across colors, however.

 

 

I just ordered brown McGregors at the RDA price for my 15-year-old son.  Will he outgrow them?  I certainly hope so, as we're currently the same size.

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