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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc... - Page 3250  

post #48736 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by peppercorn78 View Post
Do you prefer the L or XL size? I have mostly L trees, but the AE recraft sent my MacNeils back with XL trees. They're tight enough to make it difficult to remove, so it makes me a little nervous to use them. But AE recrafting must know something, right?

 

I have a mix of L trees (all AE) and XL trees (all JAB).  I love how the XL trees fit, besides the depression they've left on the heels.. They're much fuller and generally better fitting.  I may sand down the rear/heel of these trees and then they'll be perfect. That said, when I fly, I take the lighter, large-sized trees (and a cheap plastic tree, rotating daily)

 

Also, FWIW, I only use XL trees in my loafers, but don't insert the heel as not to stretch them length-wise. Ideally, for these, I'd acquire an XL-sized tree with a spring.

 


Also, do people here use trees in their unlined chukkas? It seems a little counterintuitive to me, but I will comply if there is tangible benefit.

 

At the AE stores, they use rubber trees. I believe the heel might be cedar, but I don't recall?  Either way, they don't sell these trees and I don't know where they get them. They're nicer than most plastic/rubber ones I've seen. I haven't yet used trees in mine, but if I did, I wouldn't use the XL ones ;-)

 

Btw, I'm literally on the way to my cobbler now to drop of my first unlined pair to repair the rip that made them seconds...

post #48737 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by bkotsko View Post

I have heard maybe once a month.
Every wearing is excessive.
Of course if you are @mdubs
 every wearing could be once every few months.
rimshot.gif

But you agree it's (Alden Leather Defender) a good idea to use? I'm inherently leery of product on shell, but willingly admit my experience is limited. I have 4 pairs that I acquired within the past year only (thanks to you degenerates).
post #48738 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by peppercorn78 View Post


But you agree it's (Alden Leather Defender) a good idea to use? I'm inherently leery of product on shell, but willingly admit my experience is limited. I have 4 pairs that I acquired within the past year only (thanks to you degenerates).

I am fairly certain that the consensus is that it will help mitigate water welts.

Outside of that, I don't feel a need, personally.

post #48739 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by bkotsko View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by peppercorn78 View Post


But you agree it's (Alden Leather Defender) a good idea to use? I'm inherently leery of product on shell, but willingly admit my experience is limited. I have 4 pairs that I acquired within the past year only (thanks to you degenerates).

I am fairly certain that the consensus is that it will help mitigate water welts.

Outside of that, I don't feel a need, personally.

 

I don't think shell needs to be "defended" from anything.

post #48740 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by bkotsko View Post

I have heard maybe once a month.
Every wearing is excessive.
Of course if you are @mdubs
 every wearing could be once every few months.
rimshot.gif

Most recommend the use of Alden Leather Defender even on Shell. It helps to prevent the much feared water spots.

Thanks BK, I am happy to wear my shoes once a year. :-P Of course I would be barefoot a good portion of the year that way.
post #48741 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by peppercorn78 View Post

And one more question for the shell-heads: someone in the Alden thread recommended using Alden Leather Defender on cordovan shoes before each wearing. Does anyone do anything like this? It seems excessive as shell is supposed to be hearty stuff.

I think it helps with those raised bumps that develop when water drops hit shell. It is not foolproof. I have still developed bumps after shell defender, but not as much as without it.

 

Having said that, there are some variations of shell where this does not occur.  I have not found shell that is impervious to the water bumps (but I'm still looking!).  I try to monitor the weather forecast when I wear shell shoes.

 

I went with the bwn shell strands 2day (megacloseupshot):

 

 

 

pZuvZG7.jpg

post #48742 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdubs View Post



Those do no need brushing. The bumps are from dryness in the raw shell. I highly recommend that you VSC those bad boys and then add some paste wax on top of them.



-Mike

 



Ok, went over these with a fairly light coat of Reno then buffed and some light brushing. Here is the same spot

Rt9VR7Ll.png

Rubbed the bumps with the tip of my finger.

nv1p5mOl.png

Thinking a deer boning might help smooth some of it out. The pics were about 30-45 mins after the Reno treatment. Any thoughts?
post #48743 of 70737

I have only used a deer bone once and seemed to scratch my shell, so I would say be careful and practice with it on an old pair of shell or a hidden spot

post #48744 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kahuna75 View Post
 

I have only used a deer bone once and seemed to scratch my shell, so I would say be careful and practice with it on an old pair of shell or a hidden spot

Most deer bones have some rough spots on them.  All of mine do.  I make sure I hold the deer bone in a way the rough spot does not contact the shell.  It's fairly easy to find the rough spots and rotate so that area is out of the in contact with the shoe.

 

Good luck!

 

See Ya,

Steve

post #48745 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by csmitty View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdubs View Post



Those do no need brushing. The bumps are from dryness in the raw shell. I highly recommend that you VSC those bad boys and then add some paste wax on top of them.



-Mike

 



Ok, went over these with a fairly light coat of Reno then buffed and some light brushing. Here is the same spot
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Rt9VR7Ll.png

Rubbed the bumps with the tip of my finger.

nv1p5mOl.png


Thinking a deer boning might help smooth some of it out. The pics were about 30-45 mins after the Reno treatment. Any thoughts?

 

 

I have personally found that Reno can actually be quite drying but is a decent cleaner, thus I like to use it to remove the excess polish off of my AE shell when they arrive but that is it. As Mike said, at this point my suggestion would still to get some VSC and give that a try, I am talking about a few generous applications (allow to dry for 30 min in between) followed by light brushing after each coat. Then protect the leather with a couple of light coats of either Saphir neutral cordovan cream or a paste wax. I have used this very method on my Leeds that had the same rough, dry, sandpaper like texture and now they are smooth and supple.

post #48746 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burzan View Post

 

 

I have personally found that Reno can actually be quite drying but is a decent cleaner, thus I like to use it to remove the excess polish off of my AE shell when they arrive but that is it. As Mike said, at this point my suggestion would still to get some VSC and give that a try, I am talking about a few generous applications (allow to dry for 30 min in between) followed by light brushing after each coat. Then protect the leather with a couple of light coats of either Saphir neutral cordovan cream or a paste wax. I have used this very method on my Leeds that had the same rough, dry, sandpaper like texture and now they are smooth and supple.

 



From my understanding the Reno and VSC were pretty similar products and that Reno is marketed as a cleaner/condition. Also went over the cordovan care guide at the Hanger Project again where they use Reno. I'll probably end up with some VSC at some point since that seems to be the go to for CXL. Suppose I'll give these a wear and see what they look like afterwards.
post #48747 of 70737
LaSalle in Chili. Love the style. What color pants go with these? (I assumed Grey)

post #48748 of 70737

Speaking of my burgundy shell Leeds, as many of you know I have been sun fading them and also applied an acrylic finish to them. For those of you hoping to hear the long term thoughts on the finish will have to wait as, at least for now, have removed the acrylic finish. I noticed that adding the finish seemed to stop my efforts in fading them, like the finished added a layer of UV protection from the sun.

 

The finish was very durable and honestly could not even remove it with Renomat, I had to purchase some Fiebings Deglazer to actually get it all off and even then it was not an easy task.

 

After some VSC conditioning and a few coats of a combo color fawn/black Saphir cordovan cream here we are today.

 

 

post #48749 of 70737
Hbc2kBu.jpg

Everything except the cognac Ridgeways arriving tomorrow.
post #48750 of 70737
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