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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc... - Page 2976  

post #44626 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by JubeiSpiegel View Post

Looking to pick up a pair of Patriots, any long term thoughts on them? Still haven't decided between calf, and cordovan...

They are bit more on the casual end of the penny loafer, so I would go with calf. The Randolph looks really nice in shell and is a bit dressier.
post #44627 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pastor View Post


Probably the most standard answer is going to a Black Park Avenue and a Walnut Strand. These are also two of AE's most popular shoes.

I'm in suits about every day and I wear both of these equally. As a minister I do wear black a little more than most people though so you can take that into consideration.

 

I was afraid that walnut was seen as too casual. Good to know its a good standard color for a shoe as its my favorite on shoes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by YoungSweet View Post


I was in consulting for 10 years, mostly business casual although I choose to wear suits a lot more than others. I think a cap toe will be appropriate in most environment, most will recommend the Park Avenue, but personally like the Fifth Avenues a bit more. The other pair can be a wingtip, McAllister is starter but you upgrade to the Jefferson if you want the premium leather. I also like the University in the 3 last which doesn't get much love around here. To me, it's a bit sleeker and a unique wingtip.

You also have to make a choice for colors. I jumped on the black Park Avenue bandwagon as my first grown up shoes, they are now my least used shoes in the rotation. I don't wear black shoes as much as I initially thought. Brown, bourbon, burgundy, chili and walnut are much more versatile in my opinion.
Good luck and welcome to the thread. Everyone here is very helpful and knowledgeable so feel free to ask questions.

What does 3 Last mean?

 

I also like the fifth avenue better too, but was worried the extra detail might make it not good for an everyday shoe...false?

 

Would you all say a burgundy shoe can replace a black shoe in most occasions?

post #44628 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammi View Post

I was afraid that walnut was seen as too casual. Good to know its a good standard color for a shoe as its my favorite on shoes.
What does 3 Last mean?

I also like the fifth avenue better too, but was worried the extra detail might make it not good for an everyday shoe...false?

Would you all say a burgundy shoe can replace a black shoe in most occasions?

Walnut strands are going to be a bit more flashy and if you wear darker colored suits I would stay away from those in a conservative environment. The reference to "last" is the form the shoe is made over and each one fits a bit differently. AE numbers all their lasts and you can find fit information on their website and this forum for the different lasts.

The Fifth Avenue is a great shoe and is just slightly below the Park Avenue in formality, a perfectly acceptable shoe for suits. The burgundy color can replace black in all but the most formal of occasions and if you were looking for something other than black to wear with navy and charcoal suits it would be your best color option.
post #44629 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammi View Post

What does 3 Last mean?

You cannot be serious !

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammi View Post

Would you all say a burgundy shoe can replace a black shoe in most occasions?

Yes. Mostly.
post #44630 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by JubeiSpiegel View Post

Looking to pick up a pair of Patriots, any long term thoughts on them? Still haven't decided between calf, and cordovan...

Quote:
Originally Posted by FreedBird View Post

They are bit more on the casual end of the penny loafer, so I would go with calf. The Randolph looks really nice in shell and is a bit dressier.

The patriot is one of my favorite loafers. It is low instep so keep that in mind. Mine is in suede, but I think one in shell would be great. Shell is a casual material after all . . .
post #44631 of 70737
http://online.wsj.com/news/articles/SB20001424052702303468704579572141307216318?mod=yahoo_itp&mg=reno64-wsj&url=http%3A%2F%2Fonline.wsj.com%2Farticle%2FSB20001424052702303468704579572141307216318.html%3Fmod%3Dyahoo_itp

Wall Street Journal discusses the shell shortage.

If you can't view it and is asks for your login info, just google Farewell to my Loafer Wall Street. You can likely view it there.
Edited by GOP Shoe Guy - 5/25/14 at 9:27am
post #44632 of 70737

I understand that AE has two construction - Goodyear welted & handsewn

which one is better?

post #44633 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by GOP Shoe Guy View Post

http://online.wsj.com/news/articles/SB20001424052702303468704579572141307216318?mod=yahoo_itp&mg=reno64-wsj&url=http%3A%2F%2Fonline.wsj.com%2Farticle%2FSB20001424052702303468704579572141307216318.html%3Fmod%3Dyahoo_itp

Wall Street Journal discusses the shell shortage.

If you can't view it and is asks for your login info, just google Farewell to my Loafer Wall Street. You can likely view it there.

This article is all smoke and mirrors. All of us in this thread know that @mdubs is singlehandedly responsible!!!
post #44634 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by peppercorn78 View Post

This article is all smoke and mirrors. All of us in this thread know that @mdubs is singlehandedly responsible!!!

HaHa. Thanks, but I couldn't have made that big of a dent in the shell market... There are many others here that suck in Shell quickly also!
post #44635 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Loucks View Post
 

What is a "7 Iron Leather sole?" Google seems to indicate that it is a sole "weight." Does that translate to thickness? Or is it just marketing nonsense like "brush off leather?"

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post


"Iron" is an ancient measurement used for the thickness of leather. One iron measures 1/48 " (or approximately 1/2 mm.) The 7 iron leather sole will be quite thin (obviously intended for casual summer shoes). The standard thickness for leather soles is 11 - 12 iron (5.5 - 6 mm).

Sometimes you see in shoe catalogues the thickness of the sole edge got measured in iron. That is the combination of welt, middle sole (if used) and outer sole.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by bkotsko View Post
 

Yes, Iron is the measurement of thickness for leather soles. The "Italian" shoes use a thinner sole, usually 7 or 8 iron. I would say it is close to a thin single leather sole. 

I am sure if @MoneyWellSpent is available, he can give a much more detailed description. 

 

Sorry for the late response.  I haven't been on in a few days.  In any event Bengal-Stripe was able to jump in with a great answer.  We don't see him much around this thread, if ever!

post #44636 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by taylorswift View Post
 

I understand that AE has two construction - Goodyear welted & handsewn

which one is better?

 

They are completely different construction styles that serve completely different purposes.  It's really apples and oranges.  There is a place for both.  Traditionally, there isn't overlap between the two, as if you are having to select one construction or the other.  Rather, the style dictates which construction method is used, generally speaking.  An exception to this would be some loafers (like penny loafers), where you can get either construction method, but frequently the construction goes hand in hand with the intended purpose of the shoe.  Also, with loafers, the construction method delivers very different results in the overall appearance of the shoe.  This may not be apparent to the average-joe on the street, but a shoe enthusiast will spot the difference very quickly.  The boxy shape where the apron of the apron of a hand-sewn shoe turns down to join the toe is naturally this way because the leather is wrapped around the last from the bottom-up, and pulled up to be stitched to the apron.  The same shape is "mimicked" on a Goodyear-welted loafer by employing a boxy shaped last.  However, due to the difference in lasting techniques, Goodyear-welted loafers still have a sleeker look.  Because of these differences, a Goodyear-welted loafer is more likely to be intended for business, while a hand-sewn is intended for casual comfort.  In the current fashion these days, there are undoubtedly people who mix the two up.  However, traditionally speaking, this makes sense.  With AE's branching out in to casual styles, and their production of many "sartorially confused" shoes, they have Goodyear-welted loafers made from Chromexcel, and other casual components.  In these cases, I'd say to pick the construction that is more comfortable for your intended purposes.  I don't say "sartorially confused" to begin a debate about the casual/formal mixed components of many of AE's current offerings (because I like many of them).  I simply say it to help explain my point, since they are a deviation from "tradition."   


Edited by MoneyWellSpent - 5/25/14 at 4:08pm
post #44637 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoneyWellSpent View Post
 

 

They are completely different construction styles that serve completely different purposes.  It's really apples and oranges.  There is a place for both.  Traditionally, there isn't overlap between the two, as if you are having to select one construction or the other.  Rather, the style dictates which construction method is used, generally speaking.  An exception to this would be some loafers (like penny loafers), where you can get either construction method, but frequently the construction goes hand in hand with the intended purpose of the shoe.  Also, with loafers, the construction method delivers very different results in the overall appearance of the shoe.  This may not be apparent to the average-joe on the street, but a shoe enthusiast will spot the difference very quickly.  The boxy shape where the apron of the apron of a hand-sewn shoe turns down to join the toe is naturally this way because the leather is wrapped around the last from the bottom-up, and pulled up to be stitched to the apron.  The same shape is "mimicked" on a Goodyear-welted loafer by employing a boxy shaped last.  However, due to the difference in lasting techniques, Goodyear-welted loafers still have a sleeker look.  Because of these differences, a Goodyear-welted loafer is more likely to be intended for business, while a hand-sewn is intended for casual comfort.  In the current fashion these days, there are undoubtedly people who mix the two up.  However, traditionally speaking, this makes sense.  With AE's branching out in to casual styles, and their production of many "sartorially confused" shoes, they have Goodyear-welted loafers made from Chromexcel, and other casual components.  In these cases, I'd say to pick the construction that is more comfortable for your intended purposes.  I don't say "sartorially confused" to begin a debate about the casual/formal mixed components of many of AE's current offerings.  I simply say it to help explain my point.   

 

Unnecessary Snark (Click to show)

post #44638 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRob View Post
 

 

Unnecessary Snark (Click to show)

 

That's pretty much to blurry to read on my screen.  Please explain?

post #44639 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoneyWellSpent View Post
 

 

That's pretty much to blurry to read on my screen.  Please explain?

 

It's a stick figure recoiling in horror from a wall of text.  What the wall of text in the picture says is irrelevant because no one reads walls of text.

post #44640 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRob View Post
 

 

It's a stick figure recoiling in horror from a wall of text.  What the wall of text in the picture says is irrelevant because no one reads walls of text.

 

Ah, well I was answering someone's legitimate question with genuine intent.  Answering questions on shoe construction generally take several sentences.  If you aren't interested, feel free to keep scrolling.  You would be more than welcome to answer shoe construction questions more concisely next time, if you wish.  I'm not on here as frequently as I used to be, so sometimes I'm a couple of days behind.     

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