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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc... - Page 2931  

post #43951 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by srolaser View Post


Did you name these shoes? Very clever. Are these made to order? Were these available for purchase at one time? Very interesting. Look great. What are the specifications? S

 

LOL....one thing for sure is we are on opposite ends of shoes...I love the Rush St, hate the Gramercy(looks like brown blobs) and like the new webgems...

 

EDIT: I like the webgems a little less now as I realized they were AE made in DR

post #43952 of 70737

 

Now here is an example of unique ingenuity that is quite refreshing in this thread. Well done, good sir.


Edited by OptoDoc - 5/5/14 at 8:38am
post #43953 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by OptoDoc View Post

Now here is an example of unique ingenuity that is quite refreshing in this thread. Well done, good sir.
How many PMs do you think the OP will get for custom, lasted shoe trees??? haha
post #43954 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by tifosi View Post


How many PMs do you think the OP will get for custom, lasted shoe trees??? haha

 

I could use a pair. Not a single shoe tree I own fits well in my Fifth Streets.

post #43955 of 70737
Quote:

Originally Posted by MoneyWellSpent View Post

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Quote:

Originally Posted by tjyoung View Post
 

Alright, can somebody break down the different welt-types as to which are higher quality from best to worst? For example, I pretty much only know Goodyear 360 and 270, but I'm not sure which one is "better". I know that the 270 looks sleeker, but does is give up quality for that extra 90 degrees? How is that 90 degrees attached to the shoe?

 

I'm asking this because I'm seeing quite a bit of talk about the Blake welting over the last few pages. Where does that play in?

 

Also, I stopped in my local AE store at the Somerset Collection in Michigan over the weekend, and I decided to take a pass at the Salvatore Ferragamo store right next door. Their shoes are very sleek. Anyone know what kind of welt they use? Also, anyone know why AE only uses Goodyear 360?

 

On that note, what do Alden, EG, C&J, etc. use?

 

I know...lots of questions in there.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by bespoken pa View Post


Ferragamo has different lines, the studio line (lowest) is cemented and not welted at all. The tramezza (top) is good year welted it can be a decent buy if you can find them on sale. I would imagine the main line could be blake stitched but I am not 100% sure.


There is not a difference in quality in regards to 270 vs 360 degree stitched welts merely an aesthetic choice.

Generally good year welted shoes are easier to resole and thus appear more often in the good ole USA. Resoling a blake stitched shoe requires the cobbler to have a specialized machine to do so. Only AE can say why they choose gyw shoes but it is worthing noting they have a robust re-crafting business.

 

The reason for the difference isn't quality driven, as Bespoken said.  It's an aesthetic choice.  The tighter heel makes for a dressier product.  On 270 degree welted shoes, the heel zone of the sole is nailed on.  After the the leather upper is lasted, a heel seat is nailed on, with the nails being driven up through the bottom and clinching into the leather insole.  Lasts have a steel plate on the bottom, which causes the nails to bend and clinch the leather when they strike the plate.  The sole is then nailed in the heel area in the same way, before the actual heel stack is nailed on.  The nails are covered up with the leather cushioned sock liner that you see in other Goodyear-welted shoes.  Contrary to popular belief, that sock liner's 1st intention isn't to pass on comfort to the wearer.  It is to cover up the nails that are holding on the rear of the sole and heel.  AE doesn't make their shoes this way, so those sock liners aren't "needed."

 

It is cheaper, easier, and more streamlined to manufacture 360 degree welts.  That's the reason that AE sticks to that design.  It isn't a cheaper shoe from a shoe quality standpoint.  It's just different.  360 degree welts don't need shanks, and they don't need as many nails.  As mentioned above, they also don't need sock-liners if the sole isn't nailed on at the heel.  They also save a couple of steps in the manufacturing process, which eliminates the need for people to perform those steps.  Those savings are passed on to the customer, and is one of the reasons AE is a more affordable shoe.  Of course, that's at the expense of a more refined looking shoe on some models which may actually be more aesthetically pleasing with a 270 welt.  

 

All companies that do Goodyear-welting (with the exception of AE) alternate between the two methods depending upon what is most appropriate for the style of shoe and its intended function and level of formality.  Traditionally, country or casual styles may be 360, while dressier styles are 270.  AE's company model just disregards these traditions in favor of streamlining their manufacturing.     

 

When I first asked this question, I envisioned you replying to it. Thank you for this great info.

post #43956 of 70737
Bourbon strands today!

post #43957 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjyoung View Post
 

 

When I first asked this question, I envisioned you replying to it. Thank you for this great info.

 

:cheers:

post #43958 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by csmitty View Post

Got these beauties delivered yesterday. Can't wait to get them in the wild. I don't mind boots at work in a biz casual during the spring.

Chili Dalton's are 1sts as close outs and got a great deal. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
u8e8y8y6.jpg
.

Love these boots. One of these days I will own a pair.
post #43959 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by wonsmithr8 View Post

Bourbon strands today!
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Looking good!
post #43960 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by sazon View Post

Looking good!

Thanks sir!
post #43961 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by fiestaplatypus View Post

Love these boots. One of these days I will own a pair.

Be more than happy to trade smile.gif
post #43962 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by csmitty View Post

Be more than happy to trade smile.gif

For reals? Size?
post #43963 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradybot View Post

I needed a pair of boot trees for my brown Fifth Street boots.  So I made some.  Here are the pictures.






























You should patent this design. I think you could earn some income with this.
post #43964 of 70737


Allen Edmonds Hamptons, red sox and seersucker. It's going to be a good day.
Edited by GOP Shoe Guy - 5/6/14 at 5:11am
post #43965 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by GOP Shoe Guy View Post

Allen Edmonds Hamptons, eed sox and seersucker. It's going to be a good day.

Great look! This must mean summer is here!
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