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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc... - Page 2410  

post #36136 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by OptoDoc View Post

Latest Seconds Haul:

Brown Neumok & Black Fifth Street



Fresh out of the box. Only defects I see are a couple of areas of sloppy stitching and the upper of the left Fifth Street boot is quite rippled, and honestly the leather on it feels like it is not of the same quality as the right one. I think I'm going to send those back and exchange them for another pair. I can deal with the stitching and a scuff or two, but the way the side bulges out on the left boot is something that bothers me everytime I look down.

I paid $119 for the Neumoks and $199 for the Fifth Streets.

Love my Neumoks. I haven't worn them b/c it's been so cold. Have the red laces on them, too.

post #36137 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by halfnhalfnhalf View Post
 

 

I agree completely with this . . . but (a) I do think it's possible to wear, enjoy, etc. 25+ pairs of shoes; and (b) included in my total are some shoes that I fully expect to not wear more than a few times a year (e.g., black PAs), but without which I believe my collection would be lacking.


I think it really depends on what your reasoning is for buying the shoes. Whether the main purpose is your collection, or simply wearing them. If you look at your body of shoes as a collection, then having any number of shoes, so long as they add to the quality of your collection, is justifiable. If you buy shoes because you like wearing them, as opposed to having them in your collection then it makes the most sense to limit your shoes to a certain number of pairs.

 

I myself get nearly as much joy simply knowing that a have a pair of beautiful shoes than I do by actually wearing those shoes.

post #36138 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Superfluous View Post

I just ordered the Brown Burnished Grayson Webgem. Been wanting those in a brown color and I'm mostly limited to Allen Edmonds for loafers due to width.

Question: Is it just me or is there an issue with the angle of the heel/sole on all of the Independence collection shoes? It seems off, which makes it feel like something is pushing into the middle of your foot as you take each step. The front of the heel piece seems to hit the ground first.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyBoy920 View Post
 

 

 

I have a similar issue with my Bradys, the heel is uneven or not completely straight. If you look at the pics AE posts on their website, you can easily see what I am talking about. This leads me to believe that it should cause an issue, just awkward.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Superfluous View Post


Are you talking about how the back of the heel is off the ground, showing how it's not flat?

Independence Collection Shoe:
allenedmonds_shoes_harrison_walnut_side_l.jpg

Regular Collection Shoe:
allenedmonds_shoes_geary_brown-burnished_side_l.jpg

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by chinngiskhaan View Post
 

wouldn't the front of the heel hitting first help the overall longevity of the shoe? This is because most people's shoes (in my experience) wear down the quickest at the back of the heel. So by making the shoe in a way that the front hits first, would that not increase the life of the heel? Just a thought, I am by no means a shoe expert, just seems like that might be why they made them that way.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Superfluous View Post


I thought that as well, however, it's not very comfortable when walking.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyBoy920 View Post


Agreed, plus when sitting your feet aren't flat on the floor. Causes slight knee discomfort too.

 

I can't speak for personal preferences on how your shoes feel to you, and there are certainly variable extremes to what is "normal" which can lead to discomfort.

 

All that said, the heel lifting off of a flat surface is actually normal, and can be noted as a hallmark of a properly made shoe.  From a biomechanical standpoint, it is preferable to some extent (there can be too much spring).  The reason for this is because it results in a mild "spring" action under the arch of the foot, which provides better support.  The bridge of the shoe bears weight, and if it isn't properly supported, it can sag under load.  When the shoe is on the last, it should sit flat, but when the last is pulled (on a properly made shoe), it frequently springs up a bit, which results in the heel not sitting level on a flat surface.  If the shoe is made properly it should sit flat when weight from your feet are applied, and the springing action may be more pronounced when you lift your foot off the ground.  When it strikes the ground again, and you feel the forepart of the heel hit first, that is an indicator of this engineered element.  It likely then returns to it's normal flatness when standing still.

 

It should also be noted that some shoes will exhibit more spring than others, and this can be attributed to several causes.  Shoes that aren't left on the last very long may have a greater level of spring because the insole hasn't completely "cured" to the bottom of the last.  AE only leaves them on the last for up to 24 hours I believe, while some of the more expensive manufacturers leave them on the last for weeks.  The insoles of bespoke shoes are by far the most cured to the bottom of the last.  Also, shankless shoes (AE) may exhibit more spring to them, but not always.  Certainly, shoes with metal shanks (like Alden) will resist springing far more than shoes without shanks, or with wooden shanks (which most English manufacturers use).

 

There will also be some variability between different lasts and the types of leathers and other components that the shoes are made from.  Rigidity of materials obviously plays a role in this.

 

I wouldn't start over analyzing your particular shoes.  If they have some spring, take it as normal and even preferable.  If it bothers you, that's a different story, but I would recommend trying to get used to it if you can.  I think AE makes fantastic shoes for their money, but to get shoes made at the quality we all want at the price you pay for AE's, not everything is going to be perfect.

 

Here are some other threads that discuss this topic, if you want some light pleasure reading:

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/69958/proper-heel-height/0_100

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/288876/mark-of-an-inferior-shoe-toe-spring-or-no/0_100

post #36139 of 70737
Amazon has awesome sale on the AE Harrison ($333.75 with free shipping) - Limited sizes and only in black
post #36140 of 70737
Amazon has awesome sale on the AE Harrison ($333.75 with free shipping) - Limited sizes and only in black
post #36141 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grenik View Post

It looks like you have to look up each style in Google.  I was hoping that there was a comprehensive list on one place. They have such a nice list of all their shoes showing which cleaner, polish, etc to use that I assumed they would have a list of all shoes by last.  Not a big deal.


Good for current shoes that they sell, but not for retired lines.

Here is a list I have - it doesn't include the newest models, but it has a lot of the retired models. Beware, some of the model names shown have been reused for newer models - i.e. the Dalton shown on the list is the loafer I purchased in the early 1990's, not the current boot.

AE Model - Last
Andrew - 7
Ashland - 4
Ashton - old 8
Astor - 7
Auburn - 7,1(Euro)
Beaumont - ?
Becker - 2
Bedford - 3
Belgium - 4
Belmont - 1
Bennington - 0,5
Benton - 8
Bergland - 1
Berkley - 4
Berwick - 7
Birmingham - 0
Biscayne - 1
Boulevard - 5
Bradenton - 4,7
Bradley - 1
Brentwood - 3
Breton - 1
Bridgeton - 9
Bristol - 8
Broadstreet - 3
Brookwood - 7
Burton - 2
Byron - 4
Cambridge - 5
Canelli - 0,4
Canfield - 1
Cannondale - 7
Canton - 1
Capri - 1
Castine - 1,2,5
Chester - 3
Clifton - 8
Cody - 9
Cole - 6
Colebrook - 0,3
Colton - 0
Concord - 74
Conway - 1,4,7
Copley - 8
Cornell - 1
Cortland - 4
Dalton - 7
Danbury - 5
Dellwood - 4
Delray - 8
Denton - 2
Dickson - 4
Dover - 1,6
Dryden - 2
Duke - 9
Dundee - 1
Durham - 4
Eastport - 2,4,9
Ellington - 7
Fairfax - 5
Fairgate - 1
Fairmont - old 8
Foley - 7
Fremont - 4
Fulton - 1
Garner - 5
Glasgow - 4
Glenfield - 7
Granby - 0,3
Grayson - 7
Hale - 8
Halsted - 3
Hampstead - 8
Hancock - 4
Hanover - 0,5,7
Harrison - 0
Harwood - 3
Hastings - 5
Hersey - 0
Hillcrest - 4
Hillsboro - 1 or 4 ?
Hinsdale - 4
Holbrook - 8
Holt - 2
Holton - 1,5
Howard - ?
Hyde - 1,3,7
Joplin - 2
Keene - 1,6,9
Kendall - 8
Kennet - 4,7
Kingsley - 0
Kirkwood - 1
Lambert - 8
Lauderdale - 4
Layland - 6
Leeds - old 81
Lexington - 1
Leyland - 6
Linden - 4
Lisbon II - ?
Lloyd - 7
Logan - 1
Lotus - 1
MacNeil - 7
Manchester - 7
Mapleton - 4
Marlow - 7
Maxfield - 1,2,6,7
McAllister - 5
McLain - 8
Merano - 1,6
Meridian - 8
Milford - 2
Mora - 8
Moselle - 6
Muldoon - 1,6
Nashua - 0
Nassau - ?
Newport - 9
Niles - 8
Norse - 1
Norwalk - 1,6,7
Orlean - 1
Owen - 4
Park Avenue - 5
Parkland - 6
Perry - 2
Polo - 1
Ramsey - 8
Randolph - 9
Richmond - 7
Ritz - 4
Rockland - 6
Sanford - 7
Saratoga - 23
Saxon - 2
Seneca - 5
Shelton - 1
Sheridan - 7
Slayton – 4
Soho - 0
Spencer - 4
Stanford - 1
Steen - 8
Stockbridge - 4
Stowe - 0,7
Strand - 5
Stratton - 7
Stuart - 1
Sutton - ?
Taunton - 8
Thayer - 8
Townley - 7
Troy - 4
Urbino - 0,2,6
Viking II - 6
Wakefield - ?
Waldon - 0,7
Walton - 3
Warren - 2
Waterbury - 6
Wayland - 1
Westgate - 8
Westport - 4
Wilbert - 1
Wingham - 4
Winslow - 1
Winthrop - 1,2,5
York - 4

Chris
post #36142 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoneyWellSpent View Post
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I can't speak for personal preferences on how your shoes feel to you, and there are certainly variable extremes to what is "normal" which can lead to discomfort.

 

All that said, the heel lifting off of a flat surface is actually normal, and can be noted as a hallmark of a properly made shoe.  From a biomechanical standpoint, it is preferable to some extent (there can be too much spring).  The reason for this is because it results in a mild "spring" action under the arch of the foot, which provides better support.  The bridge of the shoe bears weight, and if it isn't properly supported, it can sag under load.  When the shoe is on the last, it should sit flat, but when the last is pulled (on a properly made shoe), it frequently springs up a bit, which results in the heel not sitting level on a flat surface.  If the shoe is made properly it should sit flat when weight from your feet are applied, and the springing action may be more pronounced when you lift your foot off the ground.  When it strikes the ground again, and you feel the forepart of the heel hit first, that is an indicator of this engineered element.  It likely then returns to it's normal flatness when standing still.

 

It should also be noted that some shoes will exhibit more spring than others, and this can be attributed to several causes.  Shoes that aren't left on the last very long may have a greater level of spring because the insole hasn't completely "cured" to the bottom of the last.  AE only leaves them on the last for up to 24 hours I believe, while some of the more expensive manufacturers leave them on the last for weeks.  The insoles of bespoke shoes are by far the most cured to the bottom of the last.  Also, shankless shoes (AE) may exhibit more spring to them, but not always.  Certainly, shoes with metal shanks (like Alden) will resist springing far more than shoes without shanks, or with wooden shanks (which most English manufacturers use).

 

There will also be some variability between different lasts and the types of leathers and other components that the shoes are made from.  Rigidity of materials obviously plays a role in this.

 

I wouldn't start over analyzing your particular shoes.  If they have some spring, take it as normal and even preferable.  If it bothers you, that's a different story, but I would recommend trying to get used to it if you can.  I think AE makes fantastic shoes for their money, but to get shoes made at the quality we all want at the price you pay for AE's, not everything is going to be perfect.

 

Here are some other threads that discuss this topic, if you want some light pleasure reading:

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/69958/proper-heel-height/0_100

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/288876/mark-of-an-inferior-shoe-toe-spring-or-no/0_100


I was waiting for you to respond to this MWS. An insightful comment as usual.

post #36143 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by hohneokc View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grenik View Post

It looks like you have to look up each style in Google.  I was hoping that there was a comprehensive list on one place. They have such a nice list of all their shoes showing which cleaner, polish, etc to use that I assumed they would have a list of all shoes by last.  Not a big deal.


Good for current shoes that they sell, but not for retired lines.

Here is a list I have - it doesn't include the newest models, but it has a lot of the retired models. Beware, some of the model names shown have been reused for newer models - i.e. the Dalton shown on the list is the loafer I purchased in the early 1990's, not the current boot.
 

 

A ton of work must have gone into making this list - if I could give your post two thumbs up, I would.  Thanks for the great resource.

post #36144 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolarrow View Post
 

Love my Neumoks. I haven't worn them b/c it's been so cold. Have the red laces on them, too.

 

Trying them on for the first time, I was floored by how comfortable they are. Those who said previously that they feel like wearing slippers are entirely correct.

 

I went with the same size as my Strands and initially, this seems to be the right choice.

post #36145 of 70737

Does anyone know if Allen Edmonds will ever come out with an real balmoral boot?  Versus the kinda high top+5 last that is the fifth street

 

I really want one but it looks like only English manufacturers make them for $500+ which is too much since I cant even return them or try sizes in the US.

 

I also noticed they seem to be retiring the fifth street since the web page says it is an closeout style

post #36146 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by OptoDoc View Post
 

 

Trying them on for the first time, I was floored by how comfortable they are. Those who said previously that they feel like wearing slippers are entirely correct.

 

I went with the same size as my Strands and initially, this seems to be the right choice.

Wow, this makes me really want a pair of Neumoks.  

 

Any chance they'll re-release them in suede?

post #36147 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by BolognaFingers View Post
 

Wow, this makes me really want a pair of Neumoks.  

 

Any chance they'll re-release them in suede?

 

Call up Allison and have a pair made... hopefully at the reduced price.

 

The suede version is amazing, so soft and comfortable. I am seriously thinking about getting a snuff suede version made, I already have the tan suede.

post #36148 of 70737

I guess the only thing lacking in my shoe rotation are loafers and a monk strap. I don't see myself ever wearing a loafer and I haven't warmed up to double-monks just yet, so I think I'll wait on the Mora 2.0. As far as single monks go, I'm not enamored with the styles AE currently offers.

 

These 2 shoes have similar styles and are more of what I'm looking for:

 

http://jackerwin.com/products/jake-monk-strap

 

http://www.kentwang.com/shoes/handgrade-monkstrap.html

 

Has AE ever had a model similar to these? Would anyone be able to comment on the quality of Jack Erwin shoes? It is said they use full-grain leather and Blake stitching, but I'm a bit wary of the $195 retail price.

post #36149 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by BolognaFingers View Post
 

Wow, this makes me really want a pair of Neumoks.  

 

Any chance they'll re-release them in suede?

 

If you happen to wear 9E, Nordstrom has a pair Snuff Suede for $174.20. Today may be the last day for that price.

post #36150 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by leetpuma View Post
 

I also noticed they seem to be retiring the fifth street since the web page says it is an closeout style

 

I'm really bummed about this. I've been wanting a pair, and $275 is a great price, but I have too many other purchases in the works. There aren't any seconds in my size, so I don't have that backup plan.

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