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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc... - Page 203  

post #3031 of 70737
Feet are clearly different from one person to the next, and there is variance in construction from one shoe to the next, but I think the shankless construction of AE shoes is likely the primary source of their willingness to flex and bend at the heel.
post #3032 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mazderati View Post

Feet are clearly different from one person to the next, and there is variance in construction from one shoe to the next, but I think the shankless construction of AE shoes is likely the primary source of their willingness to flex and bend at the heel.


Agree to an extent - has to be a combo of the shoe and the foot. 

 

At least I am not crazy because others with flat feet are experiencing the same bulge with the same style shoe AEs.

 

I have noticed that the tighter I make the shoe at the ankle (even lock lacing) minimizes the bulge.  Unfortunately the shoes are not as comfortable then and get hot quickly - leading to sweating more and overall just on my mind rather than just being there complimenting the rest of the wardrobe.

post #3033 of 70737

I didn't see a difference between lock lacing, low lock lacing, and bar lacing.  Of course that may just be me.  I did notice a better fit without the arch insert (my feet are almost perfectly flat).  I ordered Pedag stick on arches (no heel cup) to see if I can get the arch support without elevating the heel.  Good luck to all the flat foots; I am rooting for you.

post #3034 of 70737
What's the consensus on the fit of the new 3 last? If I do 11B in most of the shoes, would an 11B be way too narrow for me? They don't have C...
post #3035 of 70737
Damn! AE is hitting it out of the park lately. New Finch model is up and this color combo was an insta-kop for me.

251
post #3036 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cold Iron View Post


 


     Quote:


I have flat feet but wear orthotics so I fill the volume of the shoe. I own 2 leeds (shell and calf), 2 Wilberts, Shelton, and the Bayfield & Dalton boots, all on the 1-511 last and none of them have bowing issues. The shell Bradley's that I received last week are bowing badly. I talked to CS today and am sending them back to try again. I've spent a lot of time researching this and it does seem to be a common issue especially lately with AE shoes. Seems to come up most often with the Bradley's and Strand. But others as well. If the Bradley's weren't shell I might accept them as is. However the more I look at it the more it bothers me. My heel also slips a lot more in the Bradley's than my others on the same last. Well except for my shell Dalton boots, the heel area in those is huge.

 

Retired military and my Bates never bowed, I have a low volume foot in addition to being flat. Back then I couldn't wear orthotics but got narrow shoes and boots when ever I could. I have been told by several doctors I have some of the flattest feet they have ever seen. There is an active thread on AAAC where someone has the same bowing issue and he thinks it is because he has high arches. So I'm not convinced that it is foot anatomy in every case. Some have tried the same model shoe on in the AE store and not had bowing. So there is some variation somewhere.

 



Totally agree.  I think it's a combination of how you walk (how hard you strike your heel), foot anatomy, the specific last and how AE constructs their shoes.  I get minor flexing and bowing in my AE's and have never experienced that with any other shoe and never been told that I have flat feet or anything else anatomically wrong.

 

post #3037 of 70737

Wow, check out the Rutledge!!  http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/producti_SF7603_1_40000000001_-1  What a beautiful shoe!  I'm really liking the new AE 3 last shoes.

post #3038 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

Wow, check out the Rutledge!!  http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/producti_SF7603_1_40000000001_-1  What a beautiful shoe!  I'm really liking the new AE 3 last shoes.

Wow, very nice. I saw the Independence Collection in person a couple weeks ago, though the Rutledge was not out yet. I'd encourage anyone interested in these to see them in person, as the leather is different than used in their regular line of shoes, and the colors seem to have a different effect in person than online. I was a big fan of black, but not of the walnut, on shoes I saw.
post #3039 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cold Iron View Post



 


     Quote:


I have flat feet but wear orthotics so I fill the volume of the shoe. I own 2 leeds (shell and calf), 2 Wilberts, Shelton, and the Bayfield & Dalton boots, all on the 1-511 last and none of them have bowing issues. The shell Bradley's that I received last week are bowing badly. I talked to CS today and am sending them back to try again. I've spent a lot of time researching this and it does seem to be a common issue especially lately with AE shoes. Seems to come up most often with the Bradley's and Strand. But others as well. If the Bradley's weren't shell I might accept them as is. However the more I look at it the more it bothers me. My heel also slips a lot more in the Bradley's than my others on the same last. Well except for my shell Dalton boots, the heel area in those is huge.

Retired military and my Bates never bowed, I have a low volume foot in addition to being flat. Back then I couldn't wear orthotics but got narrow shoes and boots when ever I could. I have been told by several doctors I have some of the flattest feet they have ever seen. There is an active thread on AAAC where someone has the same bowing issue and he thinks it is because he has high arches. So I'm not convinced that it is foot anatomy in every case. Some have tried the same model shoe on in the AE store and not had bowing. So there is some variation somewhere.

I have the same exact problem with the shell strands. Extreme bowing at the top line. I posted on it a few months back. I ended up returning them for good after 4 exchanges.
post #3040 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

Wow, check out the Rutledge!!  http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/producti_SF7603_1_40000000001_-1  What a beautiful shoe!  I'm really liking the new AE 3 last shoes.

Not sure that last is very elegant and the rippling of the leather at the ankle looks odd. Like the color though
post #3041 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quadcammer View Post

Not sure that last is very elegant and the rippling of the leather at the ankle looks odd. Like the color though

The rippling at the ankle looks like the shoe is just asking to bow out on 90% of the feet that try to wear it.
post #3042 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quadcammer View Post


Not sure that last is very elegant


Curious to hear why you think this.  I'm currently struggling with whether my next pair of captoes to wear with suits should have a more chiseled toe like the AE 3 last or more like the Brooks Brothers Peale captoe http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchant_Id=1&Section_Id=523&Product_Id=728929&Parent_Id=522&default_color=Dark-brown&sort_by=newArrivals&sectioncolor=&sectionsize=#null 
 

 

post #3043 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quadcammer View Post

Not sure that last is very elegant and the rippling of the leather at the ankle looks odd. Like the color though
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joenobody0 View Post

The rippling at the ankle looks like the shoe is just asking to bow out on 90% of the feet that try to wear it.

Yes, this is exactly why I recommend seeing them in person. The rippling is not as apparent in black as it is in the brown shades.
post #3044 of 70737

 

Thinking this bowing issue through it has to be a measurable metric. As I have several pairs of shoes on the 1-511 last and only my new Bradley’s have the issue but on the same last I came up with a repeatable measurement. I tied the top eyelets together and then measured the width of the topline at the widest point and same location on all the shoes.

 

ShoeThroatMeasure.jpg

 

Tenths of an inch should suffice for statistic significance in this case. I spread the jaws of the calipers until I could just see the tension on the laces at the top eyelets. Results were extremely consistent on my AE shoes purchased in the past based on the #1 last:

 

Leeds shell….…….2.4”

Leeds calf……...…2.4”

Shelton……………2.4”  

Wilbert brown….…2.4”

Wilbert black...…..2.4”

 

But the Bradley measures a huge 3.1” across the collar. It is excess material that is causing the bowing, plain and simple. I was surprised the Shelton being a balmoral measured the same as the others which are bluchers. But they are all very consistent, except for the Bradley which bows.

 

I’m planning on going to the AE store tomorrow to pick up 5th Street boots that they ordered in for me. I have never been to an AE store and want to look at the Strands however need to try the fit on the 5 last before purchasing them. Wonder if I shouldn’t just take the calipers with me and measure before I put them on my feet. Bet I can predict if they are going to bow or not.

post #3045 of 70737
^^ Wow! Breaking out the ol' caliper.
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