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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc... - Page 1170  

post #17536 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Firefox View Post

 

 

An interesting idea. But I still think that there may be a little too much broguing for my tastes, at least at this point in time in my sartorial life.

Ahhh, I'm Scottish and love the broguing (surname = McAllister)...

 

I wear my ghillie brogues quite often with my kilt but I do understand that not everyone likes that much adornment on their shoes.

 

If you can get to an AE brick and mortar, you can check out the bourbon in person. If you go back through this thread there are several pics of bourbon shoes.

 

It has been noted that some bourbons come a little darker, some a little lighter, but I just got these last week:

 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Hope that helps. I hadn't conditioned or polished these yet at the time of the picture.

post #17537 of 70737

Quote:
Originally Posted by OptoDoc View Post

The Kenilworth doesn't fit anything like the PA or any other 5 last shoe. I'm a TTS 8.5D and wear 8E on the 5 last. I had to size down to a 7.5E in the Kenilworth(after trying on about 7 size combos) and it still doesn't fit quite right.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Firefox View Post

That's weird... why would that be?

 

I can confirm that Kenilworths don't fit the same as Strands. I'm an 8.5D Strand, but 8.5D Kenilworths were a little too long and wide. I expect 8E probably would fit me better, but I haven't tried yet.

 

Presumably it's do to the fact that we're comparing a blucher to balmorals.

post #17538 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by AmericanGent View Post

As black suits tend to be formal a nice cap toe like to Park Ave would be a classic choice.  Depending on your suit, I would hesitate to wear any brouge or wingtip shoe, but the Flatiron has a shape that would allow the brogue to not bring down the formality of the suit. 

For a tux you should stay away from any cap toe, brogue, wingtip, etc and wear a long, narrow, plain toe evening shoe.  Formal shoes are frequently crappy plastic things, but AE has the Mayfair.  I don't prefer patent leather, so I'd go for the Kenilworth (in black of course!) and put a spit-shine on them that would wow even my old Chief from boot camp.  To be honest, very few people would know that you shouldn't wear dress shoes for formal wear so PA or Flatirons would go unnoticed by 98% of people in the room.  Just us pricks from SF will notice. 

 

No offence, but I don't quite agreed with this. In particular, I think a cap toe balmoral like the Park Avenue or even Fifth Avenue is significantly more appropriate than a blucher like the Kenilworth.

 

Quote:

 

Originally Posted by msulinski View Post

I'm not sure getting a blucher to wear with a tuxedo is the best option. Unfortunately, I don't think AE really makes a suitable tuxedo shoe. Does it have to be AE?

 

Agreed.

post #17539 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Firefox View Post

I'm curious how the bourbon colour compares to chili. Obviously, the chili is a little redder. But in terms of shade, do the bourbons look a little darker overall?

 

I can't compare it with Chili, but you can check out more pictures of Bourbon from when I got my Strands.

post #17540 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by kentyman View Post

 

No offence, but I don't quite agreed with this. In particular, I think a cap toe balmoral like the Park Avenue or even Fifth Avenue is significantly more appropriate than a blucher like the Kenilworth.

 

 

 

Agreed.


None taken! 

-I'll stand my ground on the cap toes not being appropriate for tux/dinner jacket wear. 

-I will concede that the blucher is not the best choice with those open laces.  I didn't even catch that.  

But the Mayfair is their formal shoe and....I dunno.  Like I said to the OP you could wear the PA and no one in the room would know the difference.  For me I'd prefer highly polished, elegant cut, plain toe leathers.  Maybe not the Kenilworth though since you pointed out the lace bed.    

Thanks Kentyman. 

post #17541 of 70737

I'm compiling a list of all the wholecuts AE has released in the past. So far I've got: 

 

Astor

Fairfax

Greenwich

Hastings

Manhattan

Westgate

 

I bet I'm missing a lot more names.

post #17542 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by masernaut View Post

I'm compiling a list of all the wholecuts AE has released in the past. So far I've got: 

 

Astor

Fairfax

Greenwich

Hastings

Manhattan

Westgate

 

I bet I'm missing a lot more names.

I really wish I'd scooped a pair of Greenwich back in the day. I just happened to be too young to notice it at the time. At least I got the Hastings.

 

I believe the Austin was darn close to a wholecut as well (it's pretty much a wholecut with a thin piece of foxing at the rear). 

post #17543 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by frank212 View Post

 

Wow. Those look amazing.  Thanks, I'm setting my sights on the burgundy.

 

I just need to deal with sizing.  I have MCallisters in 8e that feel cramped but the smokey grey McTavish (currently on clearance) in the same size feels great, though they are both on the same last, 5-65; maybe due to the stretchiness of the infused suede on the latter.   I'm going to look for store with a 2e that I can try. 

Mee too, I am thinking about which Cambridge to get. The black is IMO a must-have-standard, OTOH I do love the Burgundy color. BTW indeed I need a different width with the Cambridge and the McTavish: The McTavish fits well in 11.5D (as e.g. the Strand does) while the Cambridge needs to be 11.5E. Anyone has an idea?

 

Regarding the size, maybe someone has an additional hint: I am about to purchase some more Cordovans, i.e. Randolph and Patriot. As they have pretty much their own lasts could anyone pls give a recommendation how they fit compared to the Cambridge?

post #17544 of 70737
Delray today.
post #17545 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Variatio View Post

Regarding the size, maybe someone has an additional hint: I am about to purchase some more Cordovans, i.e. Randolph and Patriot. As they have pretty much their own lasts could anyone pls give a recommendation how they fit compared to the Cambridge?

I don't have experience with those exact models, but my AE handsewn experience is that they run a half-size shorter than the balmoral/blucher shoes. A 9EEE in every handsewn I've tried has been too short/narrow to even get on my foot, but 9.5EEE's have fit perfect. I wear 9EEEs in Mcallisters and Finch.
post #17546 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by stgrim View Post

I will soon be the proud owner of Cordovan Cambridges and McGraws in Burgundy. How should I best care for them? Would it be a good idea to coat them with a layer of http://www.hangerproject.com/closet/saphir-cordovan-shoe-polish.html#.UUZWt1ugmnY before their first run out in the open?

Congrats! I tend to agree with the Mac method and use very little product of any kind if possible. I do apply several thin coats of wax on some shoes that I decided to wear in weather that is wet such as snow or rain however. This is from his blog however not quite accurate. He has posted many times that he brushes each shoe for ~15 minutes and that the brush always stays in contact with the shoe while brushing. As he says it is all in the wrist. 

 

 

Thanks to the inherent beauty and durability of shell cordovan leather, proper care is not difficult. Adhering to the steps outlined below will ensure top-notch maintenance of your shoes, allowing them many, many years for your enjoyment:
 
 1. After each wear, wipe down the shoes with a damp cloth.
 2. Using a horsehair brush, brush each shoe vigorously for 2-3 minutes.
 3. Using a cotton cloth, buff the shoes to a high shine.
 4. Use paste wax sparingly, only when the shoes are in great need. We recommend paste wax only, after every 20 wears. When you must use paste wax, use a very small amount (dime size).
 5. Do not use creme wax.
 6. If the shoes get wet, do not attempt to dry with a hair dryer or other heating source. Instead, stuff with shoes with newspaper, turn them on their sides, and allow them to sit overnight. The next day, remove the papers and perform steps 1-3 above.
 7. If water welts appear from exposure to water, brush vigorously with a horsehair brush. Welts will usually disappear over time.
 8. To guard against water damage, apply Alden Leather Defender.
 9. Other beneficial products for your shell cordovan are Venetian Shoe Creme and Saphir Renovateur. Both should be used sparingly.
 10. Any scratches to the shell cordovan leather should be vigorously brushed with a horsehair brush. Use a bit of paste wax if the scratch is very deep.
 11. Maintain the shoes with a proper heel and sole dressing.
 12. Do not wear the same pair of shoes two days in a row. Allow the shoes a day of rest, with cedar shoe trees inserted to absorb moisture.
 
Break-in Procedures
 
It is important that you break in brand new Alden shoes in the proper way. In order to ascertain if you have purchased the proper size, and if the last is suitable for your foot, we recommend the following break-in procedures:
 
 1. Before wearing the new shoes outside, wear them on a carpeted surface.
 2. Allow three wearings, for a few hours at a time.
 3. After the third wearing, you should be able to tell if you have purchased a last suitable for your foot, in the correct size.
4. Carpeted wearing will also allow the shoe to break-in and flex a bit easier so that on your first wearings
outside, the front section of the leather sole does not take on too much stress and wear.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jvc44 View Post

Anyone have a bowing out or gap around their ankle with AEs? What do you do with that? Thanks

Bowing if it is bad enough can not be repaired. Minor bowing can be tightened some during recrafting but only to a certain extend. You need to send them to AE to let them determine if it is outside specifications. At least that has been my experience. I have had shoes on the 1 and 8 last both bow and returned them in each case. It is the first thing I check for in a new pair of shoes when I get them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Variatio View Post

Mee too, I am thinking about which Cambridge to get. The black is IMO a must-have-standard, OTOH I do love the Burgundy color. BTW indeed I need a different width with the Cambridge and the McTavish: The McTavish fits well in 11.5D (as e.g. the Strand does) while the Cambridge needs to be 11.5E. Anyone has an idea?

 

Regarding the size, maybe someone has an additional hint: I am about to purchase some more Cordovans, i.e. Randolph and Patriot. As they have pretty much their own lasts could anyone pls give a recommendation how they fit compared to the Cambridge?

Shell often, but not always, fits just slightly larger than calf. Not enough that I have ever changed sizes though. I am a 10D in 1 and 5 last for both calf and shell including the Cambridge. McTavish, Elgin and Black Hills are all 3 rough collection and I wear a 9.5D in those. Many people have sized down a half size for rough collection shoes and it usually works. But feet can vary a lot so it is hard to say always and going down a width can also work for some people. Depends on the foot.

 

Have only had my shell Patriot's (TTS) since Saturday so not an expert on them by any stretch of the imagination. They have a number of bad reviews on the AE website due to being uncomfortable and tight. I noticed that a few people who dinged them said they have a high instep. A high instep means a high volume foot, I have a very low volume foot on the other hand, and my left foot is just slightly larger than my right foot. Using black superfeet inserts in the Patriot's which increases volume my left foot after a couple of hours does get sore from the strap and too much tension. Removing the inserts they are fine. So I could see how a high volume foot may have a problem with the Patriot in your normal size.

post #17547 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Variatio View Post

Mee too, I am thinking about which Cambridge to get. The black is IMO a must-have-standard, OTOH I do love the Burgundy color. BTW indeed I need a different width with the Cambridge and the McTavish: The McTavish fits well in 11.5D (as e.g. the Strand does) while the Cambridge needs to be 11.5E. Anyone has an idea?

 

Regarding the size, maybe someone has an additional hint: I am about to purchase some more Cordovans, i.e. Randolph and Patriot. As they have pretty much their own lasts could anyone pls give a recommendation how they fit compared to the Cambridge?

 

 

Edit^^ nice detail, Cold Iron.  We were posting at the same time.  

 

 

I take the same size in my shell Randolphs as all my other shell AEs - 12D.  I don't have any experience with the Patriot, however.  It feels to me like AE made their 9 last (Randoph) shorter than the 5 last (Cambridge, PA, others) in the same size, probably so that the loafers on this last could fit well in the same size as their lace-ups on other lasts.  

 

I'll also add that the full-strap design of the Randolph means it won't stretch much across the top of your foot.  If you have a high-volume foot (as described above) you may have problems with the Randolph.  I have a medium volume foot, and the first few wearings were tight, then it started to loosen up.  

 

Ideally, go somewhere you can try them on... Good luck.

post #17548 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by elbastardocalvo View Post

Delray today.

 

You must be very tall.  All your pictures of shoes look like you are taking them from ten feet away.

post #17549 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by SloopyNoob View Post

Anybody heard anything from AE about the bourbon polish? I was told a couple months ago they're working on one.

AE discontinued the bourbon polish in a tube. I use it on my bourbon and bone spectators. If you'd like a tube, PM me.

 

CH

post #17550 of 70737
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

You must be very tall.  All your pictures of shoes look like you are taking them from ten feet away.

6'4". Makes my size 14eee's look small.
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