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Custom Suit Specs -- Request for Feedback - Page 2

post #16 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by whoopee
Unless you're wedded to the idea, flaps on trouser pockets are a bad idea.

I am not -- and don't intend to have them. I was simply trying to clarify the comment above.
post #17 of 26
I wouldn't get hacking pockets if this is a business suit. Maybe a tweed, but otherwise, no. They will likely look out of place.
post #18 of 26
Wear a french cuffed shirt to the fittings.

Straight pockets.

Fork height - as high as you can without threatening your manhood. Honestly you don't need to worry about this. Just tell the Patrick if it's uncomfortable during your fittings (he will ask). He'll ask which way you dress too.

Standard leg width (in the English tradition, which the HK tailors follow) is for the openings to cover the laces. Oh yes, wear proper shoes.

I think a higher gorge is nicer with a rolled 3 button. Less stubby. See Neapolitan suits.
post #19 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Girardian
I value this site for it's collective knowledge, input and insight. That's why I'm seeking feedback. The decisions are my own.

As the saying goes, "please everyone and noone is pleased -- please yourself, and at least you're pleased."



It is written in the Danderata:

He who has many failures
finally finds a master tailor


Oh and please dont get a roped shoulder.

As my new friend might say: Rope is for woman.
post #20 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Girardian
I value this site for it's collective knowledge, input and insight. That's why I'm seeking feedback. The decisions are my own.

As the saying goes, "please everyone and noone is pleased -- please yourself, and at least you're pleased."

I agree with FNB. However, for things you are not sure about, defer to your tailor's judgement. My only $0.02 is that if its your first bespoke suit, don't go crazy with details. Keep it simple and classic.
post #21 of 26
I would strongly recommend getting a narrower sleeve opening (around your wrists) - so long as you wear decently fitted French cuffs, you shouldn't have a problem and it will look much neater than the standard wide opening.
post #22 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Girardian
This would assume flap pockets on the rear of the trousers that could be worn tucked in? I hadn't thought of flaps ont he rear trouser pockets.


Button Stance:
I'm not certain precisely where I want it to be if the jacket is 3 rolled to 2.5. I'd like to be *able* to button the top button but also to not, and don't want the button hole to be visible when it's buttoned to 2 (i.e. I want it rolled under the lapel).

Jacket Quarters
If this refers to the opening of the jacket at the chest, I'm considering adding a vest to go with the suit (not to be worn normally but as an option). If so, I'll do a pretty high closure on the vest so it could be seen above the 2.5 roll. With the 3rd button closed, I wouldn't wear the vest. How specific should I be about this?

Both the jacket pockets and the rear pockets on the trousers can be finished as besom. It is not necessary to have flaps on either. However, if you do put flaps on the jacket, this would allow them to be worn tucked inside the pocket. I would not recommend a flap on the trousers.

The "open quarters" referrence is to the cut of the front opening of the skirt of the jacket. Think of how you want to shape the curved line on each side of the front opening.
post #23 of 26
Are these his specs which you are answering or your own? I've heard it is best to take your best suit and let them duplicate it, rather than let them take new measurements. Let me know your success because I'm going in October and may want to use him.
post #24 of 26
richardjcoyle, you should wear your favourite suit so that the cutter can see how clothes fit on you and what you generally prefer. Creating a suit based on your body, and nothing else, is the point of bespoke.
post #25 of 26
don't put a ticket pocket on a business suit. they are a casual touch best reserved for sportcoats and casual suits.
post #26 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Girardian
This would assume flap pockets on the rear of the trousers that could be worn tucked in? I hadn't thought of flaps ont he rear trouser pockets.


[u] ?


I would strongly recommend you NOT to get flaps on the back pockets - they simply look awful. Your proposed button through is correct and looks elegant. Chan will understand if you say 'double piped'. To HK tailors piping is the equivalent term to jetting.
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