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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 65

post #961 of 1318
Any chance I can humbly request/submit our Benjamin suits to be included on the list here or is this just for big-brand department/luxury store labels? Although I have to admit the list seems fairly critical with extremely high standards - listing the likes of Ermenegildo Zegna, Canali and Pal Zileri as only "Good"... SF really is a tough crowd!
post #962 of 1318

YSL Rive Gauche suits are pretty damn good IMO. Made to the highest standards of Zegna, slimmer fits. 

 

While we're at the Tom Ford involved projects, should the Gucci suits be with Zegna mainline? They're basically the same suits, just a bit different styling. 

post #963 of 1318
from the "acceptable category"

suitsupply is always available for under $500 (plus tax and tailoring). they seem to be quite popular here with their progressive cuts. with the risk of receiving death threats and bannish, i would venture to say that their material is quite average (at least for the $500 ones), so you get what you pay for. they are rarely (if ever) on sale, although once a while you can obtain a 20% discount from one of their managers if they think they're upselling you, to sweeten the deal. btw, upselling seems to be the norm, however subtly they do it.

i also like the j crew ludlow and charles tyrwhitt. j crew and CT are like a supermarket. they are always on sale so never buy retail. j crew frequently have extra 40% off and CT never sells at retail anyway. I like the j crew cut but have limited experience with CT, although people i talk to tend to like it.

I have the urge to place polo RL in the good category - excellent material and cut while half canvassed. like with RLBL, i never have good luck getting them cheap but many fellow forum members claim they routinely have them at around $500 while on sale.

i would really like to hear what others have to say.
post #964 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post

Any chance I can humbly request/submit our Benjamin suits to be included on the list here or is this just for big-brand department/luxury store labels? Although I have to admit the list seems fairly critical with extremely high standards - listing the likes of Ermenegildo Zegna, Canali and Pal Zileri as only "Good"... SF really is a tough crowd!

Well, being on SF automatically skews towards people who care about their clothing. Just like audiophiles think of Bose as sub par but most people would assume they are of very high quality. We flatter ourselves by thinking we recognize the quality behind the marketing.

 

If anyone else has experience with them they can certainly attest to their quality, no need to keep them out due to non-name brand status. I'm skeptical of the full canvas construction etc for $525 though. I know there's different qualities of canvas but that still seems awfully low for a decent canvas suit.

post #965 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post

Any chance I can humbly request/submit our Benjamin suits to be included on the list here or is this just for big-brand department/luxury store labels? Although I have to admit the list seems fairly critical with extremely high standards - listing the likes of Ermenegildo Zegna, Canali and Pal Zileri as only "Good"... SF really is a tough crowd!

 



i've heard many good things about the benjamin line - fully canvassed with excellent contruction, especially for the price. i've never had the courage to order one because i've had the reservation with its cut. while i have your attention - what fit do you think the benjamin line is similar to? maybe i'll gather enough courage to order one sometime.
post #966 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by doctorman View Post

from the "acceptable category"

suitsupply is always available for under $500 (plus tax and tailoring). they seem to be quite popular here with their progressive cuts. with the risk of receiving death threats and bannish, i would venture to say that their material is quite average (at least for the $500 ones), so you get what you pay for. they are rarely (if ever) on sale, although once a while you can obtain a 20% discount from one of their managers if they think they're upselling you, to sweeten the deal. btw, upselling seems to be the norm, however subtly they do it.

i also like the j crew ludlow and charles tyrwhitt. j crew and CT are like a supermarket. they are always on sale so never buy retail. j crew frequently have extra 40% off and CT never sells at retail anyway. I like the j crew cut but have limited experience with CT, although people i talk to tend to like it.

I have the urge to place polo RL in the good category - excellent material and cut while half canvassed. like with RLBL, i never have good luck getting them cheap but many fellow forum members claim they routinely have them at around $500 while on sale.

i would really like to hear what others have to say.

J. Crew isn't actually half canvassed, it's on the list as someone couldn't let it go and fell for J. Crew marketing

Polo RL vs RLBL isn't comparable, two completely different levels of suits
post #967 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevent View Post


J. Crew isn't actually half canvassed, it's on the list as someone couldn't let it go and fell for J. Crew marketing

Polo RL vs RLBL isn't comparable, two completely different levels of suits

That sounds correct. http://www.styleforum.net/t/168763/j-crew-suits-full-half-or-no-canvas/0_20

 

 

Excellent [*****]
- Oxxford (Highest Quality)
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli

- Caraceni
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli
- Sartoria Castangia
- St Andrew / Santandrea
- La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
- Zegna Couture/Tom Ford

Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

- Battistoni
- D'Avenza
- Isaia
- Sartoria Partenopea
- Oxxford (1220)
- Belvest mainline
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
- RLPL
- Sartorio
- Stile Latino



Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
- Canali mainline
- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
- Cantarelli mainline
- Corneliani mainline
- Dunhill
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Faconnable Tailleur

- Martin Greenfield for Gilt, BoO, FSC, & O&S (fully canvassed)
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
- Pal Zileri mainline
- Paul Smith mainline (fully canvassed)
- Paul Stuart
- Raffaelle Caruso mainline
- RLBL
- Samuelsohn
- J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)


Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)


- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Burberry Prorsum
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- CC Corneliani (half canvassed)
- Coppley (half canvassed)
- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
- Gucci
- H. Freemann
- Hackett (half canvassed)
- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
- J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)
- Lardini (half canvassed)
- L.B.M. 1911
- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- Piombo
- Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)
- Suit Supply (half canvassed)
- Valentino (half canvassed)
- Prada (half canvassed)


Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)

 

- J Crew Ludlow (fused)
- Armani Exchange
- Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)
- Dolce & Gabbana
- J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)
- H&M
- Hickey (now fused and made in China)
- Hugo Boss (fused)
- Joseph Abboud
- Pal Zileri Lab
- Tonello
- Versace Collection
- Z Zegna
- Zara
- Armani Collezioni (fused)
- Corneliani Trend (fused)

post #968 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by MZhammer View Post

Well, being on SF automatically skews towards people who care about their clothing. Just like audiophiles think of Bose as sub par but most people would assume they are of very high quality. We flatter ourselves by thinking we recognize the quality behind the marketing.

If anyone else has experience with them they can certainly attest to their quality, no need to keep them out due to non-name brand status. I'm skeptical of the full canvas construction etc for $525 though. I know there's different qualities of canvas but that still seems awfully low for a decent canvas suit.

The Bose example makes perfect sense. This certainly applies to popular clothing brands to the masses like Hugo Boss, Armani, etc. which are widely singled out for fantastic marketing with minimal substance/quality. Let's give SF some credit - it's not ALL self flattery!

Hopefully some people will chime in with their own thoughts/experiences with the Benjamin suits. Over 700 sold to date so hopefully some people will step up and give testimony.
post #969 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by doctorman View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post

Any chance I can humbly request/submit our Benjamin suits to be included on the list here or is this just for big-brand department/luxury store labels? Although I have to admit the list seems fairly critical with extremely high standards - listing the likes of Ermenegildo Zegna, Canali and Pal Zileri as only "Good"... SF really is a tough crowd!

 



i've heard many good things about the benjamin line - fully canvassed with excellent contruction, especially for the price. i've never had the courage to order one because i've had the reservation with its cut. while i have your attention - what fit do you think the benjamin line is similar to? maybe i'll gather enough courage to order one sometime.

The most popular fit comparisons I've heard in the past are the BB Fitzgerald, Hugo Boss, RLBL and Z Zegna. It is a slimmer European fit - high armholes, drop 7.
post #970 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post

The most popular fit comparisons I've heard in the past are the BB Fitzgerald, Hugo Boss, RLBL and Z Zegna. It is a slimmer European fit - high armholes, drop 7.

Do you intend to make them with wider lapels?
post #971 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by MZhammer View Post

Well, being on SF automatically skews towards people who care about their clothing. Just like audiophiles think of Bose as sub par but most people would assume they are of very high quality. We flatter ourselves by thinking we recognize the quality behind the marketing.

If anyone else has experience with them they can certainly attest to their quality, no need to keep them out due to non-name brand status. I'm skeptical of the full canvas construction etc for $525 though. I know there's different qualities of canvas but that still seems awfully low for a decent canvas suit.

I think most people know by now that Bose is crap.
post #972 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post

Do you intend to make them with wider lapels?

I think I will as you're not the first person to ask!
post #973 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patek View Post


I think most people know by now that Bose is crap.

 

I think you'd be incorrect. Asking a random sampling on the street who makes the best audio equipment I'd bet you'd hear Beats by Dre and Bose, just like the best suits would probably be Armani and the best watch is Rolex or Omega.

post #974 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by MZhammer View Post

I think you'd be incorrect. Asking a random sampling on the street who makes the best audio equipment I'd bet you'd hear Beats by Dre and Bose, just like the best suits would probably be Armani and the best watch is Rolex or Omega.

Once Bose started putting their stuff in Pontiacs and other crappy cars, I think they lost their premium aura in the eye of the American public.
post #975 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by MZhammer View Post

That sounds correct. http://www.styleforum.net/t/168763/j-crew-suits-full-half-or-no-canvas/0_20


Excellent [*****]

- Oxxford (Highest Quality)

- Brioni

- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- Caraceni

- Kiton

- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale

- Luigi Borrelli

- Sartoria Castangia

- St Andrew / Santandrea

- La Vera Sartoria Napoletana

- Zegna Couture/Tom Ford


Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)


- Battistoni

- D'Avenza

- Isaia

- Sartoria Partenopea

- Oxxford (1220)

- Belvest mainline

- Borrelli Luxury Vintage

- Canali Milano

- Corneliani Linea Sartoria

- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)

- Ravazzolo

- Sartoria Attolini Napoli

- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma

- RLPL

- Sartorio

- Stile Latino




Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)


- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece

- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece

- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)

- Canali mainline

- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)

- Cantarelli mainline

- Corneliani mainline

- Dunhill

- Ermenegildo Zegna

- Faconnable Tailleur
- Martin Greenfield for Gilt, BoO, FSC, & O&S (fully canvassed)

- Hickey Freeman Mainline

- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)

- Pal Zileri mainline

- Paul Smith mainline (fully canvassed)

- Paul Stuart

- Raffaelle Caruso mainline

- RLBL

- Samuelsohn

- J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)



Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)



- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)

- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)

- Burberry Prorsum

- Cantarelli Tailor

- Charles Tyrwhitt

- CC Corneliani (half canvassed)

- Coppley (half canvassed)

- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)

- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)

- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)

- Gucci

- H. Freemann

- Hackett (half canvassed)

- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics

- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)

- J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)

- Lardini (half canvassed)

- L.B.M. 1911

- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)

- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)

- Piombo

- Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)

- Suit Supply (half canvassed)

- Valentino (half canvassed)

- Prada (half canvassed)



Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)

- J Crew Ludlow (fused)

- Armani Exchange

- Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)

- Dolce & Gabbana

- J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)

- H&M

- Hickey (now fused and made in China)

- Hugo Boss (fused)

- Joseph Abboud

- Pal Zileri Lab

- Tonello

- Versace Collection

- Z Zegna

- Zara

- Armani Collezioni (fused)

- Corneliani Trend (fused)

- Piattelli for Barneys NY I made the mistake of purchasing one of these on the forum and it is worse than my pre-SF HB. Fused and made out of plastic feeling wool.
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