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post #946 of 1316
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Engineer View Post
 

I'm surprised Indochino is not listed somewhere

i think it's due to the fact that this thread is designed to rank RTW suits .

post #947 of 1316
Quote:
Originally Posted by heterophilous View Post

Can anyone comment on the OTR line from Martin Greenfield that gets distributed through Gilt? You can find them for as low $500-600 at clearance. And they're full-canvas too, no?

 

So i did a bit more research on the RTW Martin Greenfield and came across this review from Michael William a few years back at "A Continuous Lean" :

 

http://www.acontinuouslean.com/2010/07/14/made-in-brooklyn-martin-greenfield-for-gilt/

 

In his words (not mine) :

 

  • All suits feature full canvas construction.
  • The jacket sleeves have attached buttons, but also are made so that they can be lengthened and have working buttons added once proper fit.
  • The collection is comprised of six different super 120s wool suits, two summer cotton options and a peak lapel tuxedo.
  • Everything but the tux are of the 2-button notch lapel and side vent variety (I like to call side vents “dual exhaust”).
  • The jackets have a passport pocket, pen pocket, cell phone pocket and your normal breast pocket.
  • The entire collection is made in Brooklyn, USA.

In terms of my suiting experience, I've bought stuff from Isaia, M. Greenfield, Brooks Brothers GF, Suitsupply, and Hugo Boss.  It'd definitely be a stretch to suggest that the Greenfield line from Gilt was as good as Isaia from the standpoint of materials and workmanship. But it's definitely a step above the "satisfactory" half-canvassed sportcoat I have from Suitsupply, or the "mediocre" fused suit I have from Hugo Boss.  

post #948 of 1316

Excellent [*****]
- Oxxford (Highest Quality)
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli
- Sartoria Castangia
- St Andrew
- La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
- Zegna Couture/Tom Ford

Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

- D'Avenza
- Isaia
- Sartoria Partenopea
- Oxxford (1220)
- Belvest mainline
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
- RLPL
- Sartorio
- Stile Latino



Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
- Canali mainline
- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
- Cantarelli mainline
- Corneliani
- Dunhill
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Faconnable Tailleur
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)

- Martin Greenfield RTW for Gilt (fully canvassed)
- Pal Zileri mainline
- Paul Smith Mainline (fully canvassed)
- Paul Stuart
- Raffaelle Caruso mainline
- RLBL
- Samuelsohn
- J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)


Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- CC Cornelaini (half canvassed)
- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
- H. Freemann
- Hackett (half canvassed)
- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
- J Crew Ludlow (half canvassed)
-J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)
- Lardini (half canvassed)
- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)
- Suit Supply (half canvassed)
- Valentino (half canvassed)
- L.B.M. 1911
- Piombo



Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)

- J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)
- Hugo Boss (fused)
- hickey (now fused and made in China)
- Joseph Abboud
- Zara
- H&M
- Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)
- Z Zegna
- Tonello

post #949 of 1316
People aren't being careful, just noticed my Coppley addition had disappeared.

Excellent [*****]
- Oxxford (Highest Quality)
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli
- Sartoria Castangia
- St Andrew
- La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
- Zegna Couture/Tom Ford

Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

- D'Avenza
- Isaia
- Sartoria Partenopea
- Oxxford (1220)
- Belvest mainline
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
- RLPL
- Sartorio
- Stile Latino



Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
- Canali mainline
- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
- Cantarelli mainline
- Corneliani
- Dunhill
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Faconnable Tailleur
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
- Martin Greenfield RTW for Gilt (fully canvassed)
- Pal Zileri mainline
- Paul Smith Mainline (fully canvassed)
- Paul Stuart
- Raffaelle Caruso mainline
- RLBL
- Samuelsohn
- J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)


Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- CC Cornelaini (half canvassed)
- Coppley (half canvassed)
- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
- H. Freemann
- Hackett (half canvassed)
- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
- J Crew Ludlow (half canvassed)
-J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)
- Lardini (half canvassed)
- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)
- Suit Supply (half canvassed)
- Valentino (half canvassed)
- L.B.M. 1911
- Piombo



Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)

- J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)
- Hugo Boss (fused)
- hickey (now fused and made in China)
- Joseph Abboud
- Zara
- H&M
- Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)
- Z Zegna
- Tonello
post #950 of 1316
Fwiw everything Martin Greenfield I've seen is made to the same standard (pretty solid) and the different lies in fabrics. Band of Outsiders has Martin greenfield and also pier SA made suiting and the Martin Greenfield drapes much better IMO. Gilt suit I handled held the same as BoO
post #951 of 1316
Quote:
Originally Posted by staxringold View Post

People aren't being careful, just noticed my Coppley addition had disappeared.
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Excellent [*****]
- Oxxford (Highest Quality)
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli
- Sartoria Castangia
- St Andrew
- La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
- Zegna Couture/Tom Ford

Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

- D'Avenza
- Isaia
- Sartoria Partenopea
- Oxxford (1220)
- Belvest mainline
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
- RLPL
- Sartorio
- Stile Latino



Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
- Canali mainline
- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
- Cantarelli mainline
- Corneliani
- Dunhill
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Faconnable Tailleur
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
- Martin Greenfield RTW for Gilt (fully canvassed)
- Pal Zileri mainline
- Paul Smith Mainline (fully canvassed)
- Paul Stuart
- Raffaelle Caruso mainline
- RLBL
- Samuelsohn
- J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)


Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- CC Cornelaini (half canvassed)
- Coppley (half canvassed)
- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
- H. Freemann
- Hackett (half canvassed)
- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
- J Crew Ludlow (half canvassed)
-J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)
- Lardini (half canvassed)
- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)
- Suit Supply (half canvassed)
- Valentino (half canvassed)
- L.B.M. 1911
- Piombo



Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)

- J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)
- Hugo Boss (fused)
- hickey (now fused and made in China)
- Joseph Abboud
- Zara
- H&M
- Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)
- Z Zegna
- Tonello

 

 

sorry i goofed on that.  my bad.  there are some other additions and modifications i missed.  so i'll repost with those too as well . . .

post #952 of 1316

Excellent [*****]
- Oxxford (Highest Quality)
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli
- Sartoria Castangia
- St Andrew
- La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
- Zegna Couture/Tom Ford

Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

- Battistoni
- D'Avenza
- Isaia
- Sartoria Partenopea
- Oxxford (1220)
- Belvest mainline
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
- RLPL
- Sartorio
- Stile Latino



Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
- Canali mainline
- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
- Cantarelli mainline
- Corneliani mainline
- Dunhill
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Faconnable Tailleur

- Martin Greenfield for Gilt, BoO, FSC, & O&S (fully canvassed)
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
- Pal Zileri mainline
- Paul Smith mainline (fully canvassed)
- Paul Stuart
- Raffaelle Caruso mainline
- RLBL
- Samuelsohn
- J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)


Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)


- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Burberry Prorsum
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- CC Corneliani (half canvassed)
- Coppley (half canvassed)
- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
- Gucci
- H. Freemann
- Hackett (half canvassed)
- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
- J Crew Ludlow (half canvassed)
- J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)
- Lardini (half canvassed)
- L.B.M. 1911
- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- Piombo
- Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)
- Suit Supply (half canvassed)
- Valentino (half canvassed)
- Prada (half canvassed)


Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)

- Armani Exchange
- Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)
- Dolce & Gabbana
- J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)
- H&M
- Hickey (now fused and made in China)
- Hugo Boss (fused)
- Joseph Abboud
- Pal Zileri Lab
- Tonello
- Versace Collection
- Z Zegna
- Zara
- Armani Collezioni (fused)
- Corneliani Trend (fused)

post #953 of 1316

This thread has been an amazing resource, thanks to all.

post #954 of 1316

can anyone comment on the quality of ernesto?

they make pricey jacket (at the caruso level), unstructured(?),single vent, patch pockets

 

post #955 of 1316
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirnelli View Post

Gents,

I own about 200 suits & jackets -- I seem to have made it my life's goal to buy at least one suit or jacket from every brand worth trying, at every price point, ranging from cheap fused OTR to the most expensive bespoke suits.

I can't be bothered to rank with stars all the brands I've tested, so I'll just invite thread followers to glance at the in-depth reviews I've written up here -- the only comprehensive one-post review of its kind by a single owner I've seen so far:

http://dirnelli.tumblr.com/search/review

 

Wow! I would love to buy you lunch or dinner sometime if I am in the same city :) 

post #956 of 1316

Thougths? Caraceni make for LBCS and I can't tell any major quality difference between my older Attolini models so I'd put them at the top.

Should RLPL be moved up as they're made to a high standard by Santandrea?

 

Excellent [*****]
- Oxxford (Highest Quality)
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli

- Caraceni
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli
- Sartoria Castangia
- St Andrew / Santandrea
- La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
- Zegna Couture/Tom Ford

Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

- Battistoni
- D'Avenza
- Isaia
- Sartoria Partenopea
- Oxxford (1220)
- Belvest mainline
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
- RLPL
- Sartorio
- Stile Latino



Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
- Canali mainline
- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
- Cantarelli mainline
- Corneliani mainline
- Dunhill
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Faconnable Tailleur

- Martin Greenfield for Gilt, BoO, FSC, & O&S (fully canvassed)
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
- Pal Zileri mainline
- Paul Smith mainline (fully canvassed)
- Paul Stuart
- Raffaelle Caruso mainline
- RLBL
- Samuelsohn
- J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)


Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)


- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Burberry Prorsum
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- CC Corneliani (half canvassed)
- Coppley (half canvassed)
- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
- Gucci
- H. Freemann
- Hackett (half canvassed)
- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
- J Crew Ludlow (half canvassed)
- J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)
- Lardini (half canvassed)
- L.B.M. 1911
- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- Piombo
- Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)
- Suit Supply (half canvassed)
- Valentino (half canvassed)
- Prada (half canvassed)


Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)

- Armani Exchange
- Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)
- Dolce & Gabbana
- J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)
- H&M
- Hickey (now fused and made in China)
- Hugo Boss (fused)
- Joseph Abboud
- Pal Zileri Lab
- Tonello
- Versace Collection
- Z Zegna
- Zara
- Armani Collezioni (fused)
- Corneliani Trend (fused)

post #957 of 1316

This is an M&S Pure Wool - Price of Wales Checks. 

http://www.marksandspencerextra.com/2205/T152747_T152748.html 

 

Is this approved for a first suit? I know usual guide says solids and even through it says PoW checks, I am wondering if it can go down for a business/ interview suit? 

post #958 of 1316
Are there any suits in the "good" category that will be noticeably more affordable than the others? Trying to find the best bang for the buck from those who have experience.
post #959 of 1316
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickrut View Post

Are there any suits in the "good" category that will be noticeably more affordable than the others? Trying to find the best bang for the buck from those who have experience.

 

for me, the black fleece can be routinely had at around $600.  sometimes even at $500 (plus tax and tailoring), even lower if you are a larger size and take advantage of their FF sale. i favor black fleece because it fits me nearly perfectly.  many of their suits are half canvassed.

 

paul stuart is my other favourite and i think they can be had around $650-700 (plus tax and tailoring) at least twice a year (4th of july and christmas). i believe all of them are fully canvassed.

 

it appears to many that RLBL are frequently around $700 (even lower according to some), but it hasn't been my experience, maybe because they never have my size on sale. the opportunity presents itself to me probably once a year at most.

 

canali is everywhere.  they are frequently under $1000 during saks sales, but i don't have much experience with it.

post #960 of 1316

Could I ask the same question for the ACCEPTABLE category? I was looking at M&S Pure Wool ones and they had some sales. 

Which brands ones in that Category can be had for better prices / sales? 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by nickrut View Post

Are there any suits in the "good" category that will be noticeably more affordable than the others? Trying to find the best bang for the buck from those who have experience.
Quote:
Originally Posted by doctorman View Post
 

 

for me, the black fleece can be routinely had at around $600.  sometimes even at $500 (plus tax and tailoring), even lower if you are a larger size and take advantage of their FF sale. i favor black fleece because it fits me nearly perfectly.  many of their suits are half canvassed.

 

paul stuart is my other favourite and i think they can be had around $650-700 (plus tax and tailoring) at least twice a year (4th of july and christmas). i believe all of them are fully canvassed.

 

it appears to many that RLBL are frequently around $700 (even lower according to some), but it hasn't been my experience, maybe because they never have my size on sale. the opportunity presents itself to me probably once a year at most.

 

canali is everywhere.  they are frequently under $1000 during saks sales, but i don't have much experience with it.

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