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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 61

post #901 of 1316
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frankie22 View Post

Whaaa?

+1 - although I say "whaaa?" to the entire statement.
post #902 of 1316
Quote:
Originally Posted by Riva View Post

That is correct. I get my own $400-500 for the fabric + some small change for buttons etc. They charge me $500 straight for labor. They have their shops in the most prestigious mall in the country so ain't some backstreet tailors. It also helps that one of them is my cousin. But I'm cheap so I'd rather get $600 Isaias where I can flaunt the label in meeting rooms. But shirts + pants must be bespoke to get that sharp look.


just to be sure. are you talking about MTM or bespoke? i'd never pay extra for MTM but i would definitely (one day) pay for a true bespoke experience.

 

also, i must learn from you how to flaunt the label of my suit in a meeting room.  i always though it would take a contortionist with a torch to see the labels of my suit...puzzled.gif

post #903 of 1316
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frankie22 View Post

+1. There is no true quality bespoke for a grand.  Unless someone is doing a personal favor for you and taking a haircut on the labor.

Sorry there is no easy way to say it without sounding like a prick. You just don't have the connection or haven't travelled enough. I'm young but I made it a mission to build my personal relationships with great tailors over the 15 years since I started wearing suits. Those include tailors for famous brands so going direct is obviously much cheaper. But I get the advantage as it is part of work. I understand other people have different circumstances.
post #904 of 1316
Quote:
Originally Posted by doctorman View Post


just to be sure. are you talking about MTM or bespoke? i'd never pay extra for MTM but i would definitely (one day) pay for a true bespoke experience.

also, i must learn from you how to flaunt the label of my suit in a meeting room.  i always though it would take a contortionist with a torch to see the labels of my suit...puzzled.gif

BESPOKE. I'd rather otr than mtm smile.gif
post #905 of 1316
Quote:
Originally Posted by Riva View Post


Sorry there is no easy way to say it without sounding like a prick. You just don't have the connection or haven't travelled enough. I'm young but I made it a mission to build my personal relationships with great tailors over the 15 years since I started wearing suits. Those include tailors for famous brands so going direct is obviously much cheaper. But I get the advantage as it is part of work. I understand other people have different circumstances.

 



i'd still like to know if it's a true bespoke experience though... if you let us know those reputable tailors in those prestigious malls (prestigious malls are kinda like finesse-throwing right-handers; they don't really exist), i'm sure we'll all know if they actually do a true bespoke.

 

kudos to you to have that connection and i'm envious. but if that connection gets an MTM, it's really not that big of a deal.

 

also, taxgenius stands corrected. there is no free lunch.  when one does you a favor, a favor is often returned (i hope).

post #906 of 1316
Quote:
Originally Posted by Riva View Post

That is correct. I get my own $400-500 for the fabric + some small change for buttons etc. They charge me $500 straight for labor. They have their shops in the most prestigious mall in the country so ain't some backstreet tailors. It also helps that one of them is my cousin. But I'm cheap so I'd rather get $600 Isaias where I can flaunt the label in meeting rooms. But shirts + pants must be bespoke to get that sharp look.

 

wait a minute.. you don't happen to mean menswearhouse, do you?

post #907 of 1316
Quote:
Originally Posted by doctorman View Post

wait a minute.. you don't happen to mean menswearhouse, do you?

Now that I do believe. happy.gif
post #908 of 1316
Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkpanther View Post

Now that I do believe. happy.gif

LOL No! smile.gif
post #909 of 1316
Quote:
Originally Posted by Riva View Post


Sorry there is no easy way to say it without sounding like a prick. You just don't have the connection or haven't travelled enough. I'm young but I made it a mission to build my personal relationships with great tailors over the 15 years since I started wearing suits. Those include tailors for famous brands so going direct is obviously much cheaper. But I get the advantage as it is part of work. I understand other people have different circumstances.

Well lets see, I'm here in NYC and have used or know of most of the fine tailors in the area and also understand the market pretty well. In a previous post I had mentioned the only way you are getting true quality bespoke for under a grand is if you have a connection who is taking a haircut on the cost of labor. Frankly, this is a luxury 99 percent of folks dont have, so my comment to your initial post with regard to going bespoke once the cost of suiting approaches 1000.00 stands. Ain't happening.  Hope this helps.

 

Which fine bespoke shop is located in the most "prestigious" mall in the country? You're either trolling or this is about to get interesting.

post #910 of 1316
But on a more serious note I sometimes compare Stefano Ricci's designs to theirs as they're on the same row. I prefer their styles. Far more creative not to mention more luxurious shop.
post #911 of 1316
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frankie22 View Post

Well lets see, I'm here in NYC and have used or know of most of the fine tailors in the area and also understand the market pretty well. In a previous post I had mentioned the only way you are getting true quality bespoke for under a grand is if you have a connection who is taking a haircut on the cost of labor. Frankly, this is a luxury 99 percent of folks dont have, so my comment to your initial post with regard to going bespoke once the cost of suiting approaches 1000.00 stands. Ain't happening.  Hope this helps.

Which fine bespoke shop is located in the most "prestigious" mall in the country? You're either trolling or this is about to get interesting.

The mall I'm referring to is grander than South Coast Plaza. I shop depending where it's cheapest for the stuff I'm looking for. For example outlets outside Vienna + Tokyo are quite decent for Corneliani, Prada, and Burberry inc kids stuff. Never shop in US unless online, way too expensive even after discounts. Compare Chanel bags in East Europe vs where you're at.

Any bespoke is something that 99.999999% people don't bother to pursue. They want something with a nice logo and sounds Italian which even I myself sometimes feel trapped into. But starting this year I'm changing that with custom watch straps, belt, and fountain pens.
post #912 of 1316

Again Riva.. your whole argument is based from your perspective in terms of how these different labels, brands work for you. We are not talking about pants or dress shirts.. we are talking about suits..and we are also talking more about RTW than bespoke..and we are talking about quality more than fit..In general is fit more paramount than quality? Yes..but for this list we are talking about quality more because if we went into what brands fit best, that could never be an objective conversation. The reason being we all have different body types so different brands will fit better on different people. Where as quality, that can be measured across the board. Meaning, if a suit is fused, then it will not have more handwork than a canvassed suit. That we can quantify..that's the underlying theme of this thread..

post #913 of 1316
Quote:
Originally Posted by chocsosa View Post

Again Riva.. your whole argument is based from your perspective in terms of how these different labels, brands work for you. We are not talking about pants or dress shirts.. we are talking about suits..and we are also talking more about RTW than bespoke..and we are talking about quality more than fit..In general is fit more paramount than quality? Yes..but for this list we are talking about quality more because if we went into what brands fit best, that could never be an objective conversation. The reason being we all have different body types so different brands will fit better on different people. Where as quality, that can be measured across the board. Meaning, if a suit is fused, then it will not have more handwork than a canvassed suit. That we can quantify..that's the underlying theme of this thread..

I completely understand which is why I'm wondering why they pursued the bespoke topic. Back to the list people...

We can start by talking why "quality" is also very subjective.
post #914 of 1316
Quote:
Originally Posted by Riva View Post

Comments:

 

 

Excellent: Yes a $6K Brioni plain black jacket is overpriced, and yes the handstitched button holes look uglier than machined ones, but it's downright the most comfortable OTR jacket I've ever worn. Perfect fit and great slim silhouette as if it's been done bespoke. You can get bespoke from a local tailor way cheaper and look as good but we're talking ego here. Now Kiton doesn't have many slim choices OTR but their construction is top notch even if too hyped and very overpriced so I only have a jacket. The good news is I see lots of discounted Kitons year after year as opposed to Brioni.

 

Very Good: Overall I agree with this list with Isaia being my overall favorite brand just because it is easier to find it discounted. Very fine construction and almost perfect fit. I always try to buy whenever I find a slim fitting piece with modern color which is extremely hard to come across.

 

 

I'll update this once I get more stuff.

 

Quite interesting to read Riva. However, I have to say I'm a bit puzzled by the fact that we're the exact same size and that you are actually putting Brioni first in terms of fit?! Where do you find some 34 Brioni? The 36 usually fit as 38 elsewhere as far as I'm concerned. The construction is nice but I can't say the fit is top notch for small sizes.

Kiton is indeed very beautiful but so pricey it makes it impossible to buy. I find Isaia, Belvest, Sartoria Partenopea to be at the very top of the crop for small sizes.

post #915 of 1316
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeamasterLux View Post

 

Quite interesting to read Riva. However, I have to say I'm a bit puzzled by the fact that we're the exact same size and that you are actually putting Brioni first in terms of fit?! Where do you find some 34 Brioni? The 36 usually fit as 38 elsewhere as far as I'm concerned. The construction is nice but I can't say the fit is top notch for small sizes.

Kiton is indeed very beautiful but so pricey it makes it impossible to buy. I find Isaia, Belvest, Sartoria Partenopea to be at the very top of the crop for small sizes.

 

With Brioni I use a 36 but the last time I tried it was 3 months ago prior to the pilates and dieting so maybe I'm a 34 now which I've never seen available in their shops. Then again I'm only tightening my waist + stomach area while the chest probably gets a bit bigger due to the pushups. Somehow the Lanvin 36 I'm wearing right now feels tighter on the shoulders. I use a 34 only with Corneliani and Isaia but with the latter I may be able to use 36 depending on model line like for example a more casual sport jacket.

 

Kiton isn't impossible as the discounts are massive and you can haggle with the sellers but it's impossible to find the size for us skinny guys. As far as price goes you can always try to haggle but size is the main issue. A perfect size for me is actual size shoulder 17, chest 19, length as short as possible so I usually alter the bottom.

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