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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 59

post #871 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post

Excellent [*****]
- Oxxford (Highest Quality)
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli
- Sartoria Castangia
- St Andrew
- La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
- Zegna Couture/Tom Ford

Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

- D'Avenza
- Isaia
- Sartoria Partenopea
- Oxxford (1220)
- Belvest mainline
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
- RLPL
- Sartorio
- Stile Latino



Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
- Canali mainline
- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
- Cantarelli mainline
- Corneliani
- Dunhill
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Faconnable Tailleur
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
- Pal Zileri mainline
- Paul Smith Mainline (fully canvassed)
- Paul Stuart
- Raffaelle Caruso mainline
- RLBL
- Samuelsohn
- J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)


Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- CC Cornelaini (half canvassed)
- Coppley (half canvassed)
- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
- H. Freemann
- Hackett (half canvassed)
- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
- J Crew Ludlow (half canvassed)
-J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)
- Lardini (half canvassed)
- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)
- Suit Supply (half canvassed)
- Valentino (half canvassed)
- L.B.M. 1911
- Piombo



Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)

- J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)
- Hugo Boss (fused)
- hickey (now fused and made in China)
- Joseph Abboud
- Zara
- H&M
- Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)
- Z Zegna
- Tonello
post #872 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

Don't know about Suit Supply. How's the construction on the sleeve head?

I'd have to look at it in greater detail but their La Spalla full canvas line is certainly far superior to a JCrew ludlow offering. 

My sammy's are nice but a little overhyped, imo.

post #873 of 1317
I'm reading some conflicting info on suitsupply. The offerings on their website look great, but some pieces are wool polyamide blends. And I think somebody posted a pic of the spalia camicia construction, which had some problems.

The stuff does actually look great, and I'm tempted to give it a shot. It's nice that they post measurements on their website.
post #874 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

I'm reading some conflicting info on suitsupply. The offerings on their website look great, but some pieces are wool polyamide blends. And I think somebody posted a pic of the spalia camicia construction, which had some problems.

The stuff does actually look great, and I'm tempted to give it a shot. It's nice that they post measurements on their website.

None of my stuff is wool poly. Its all branded wool silk or wool linen. I own 5 jackets from them.


Edited by Frankie22 - 7/23/13 at 6:59pm
post #875 of 1317

Shoot, speaking from personal experience...RLBL should not be ranked in the same tier as Zegna. I have a couple of suits from both, and RLBL is not holding up very well in comparison to Zegna suits despite good maintenance. I know that Zegna seems to be going all Trofeo on most(?) of their new suits, I think they've distanced themselves from RLBL. In terms of getting what you paid for? Yes, you get a decent quality suit with RLBL for the price. Zegna? They're overpriced. 

 

Now, Zegna vs Isaia? I see very little difference in quality between the two. This ranking is somewhat well constructed but I think it has some flaws.

post #876 of 1317
I'd put Zegna slightly above RLBL as well, but this list assumes that there is variation within tiers.

Either way, they're pretty similar: both fully canvassed, machine made with great fabrics (H&S for RLBL and Zegna fabrics for Zegna suits).
post #877 of 1317

has anyone heard of trussini? Full Canvas suit.. where does it go on the list? Just wondering?

post #878 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by chocsosa View Post

has anyone heard of trussini? Full Canvas suit.. where does it go on the list? Just wondering?

No clue about the brand but this gives a good insight.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/4705/trussini-boyds-hous-line
post #879 of 1317

I'm undertaking the same route here as buying and trying out as many different brands as possible despite living in a tropical country. I'm 30 something with slim size 34-36. Let me add a few not listed before... and some comments below:

 

Excellent [*****]
- Oxxford (Highest Quality)
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli
- Sartoria Castangia
- St Andrew
- La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
- Zegna Couture/Tom Ford

Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

- D'Avenza
- Isaia
- Sartoria Partenopea
- Oxxford (1220)
- Belvest mainline
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
- RLPL
- Sartorio
- Stile Latino



Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
- Canali mainline
- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
- Cantarelli mainline
- Corneliani (mainline and Trend)
- Dunhill
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Faconnable Tailleur
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
- Pal Zileri mainline
- Paul Smith mainline (fully canvassed)
- Paul Stuart
- Raffaelle Caruso mainline

- Prada

- RLBL
- Samuelsohn
- J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)


Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)
 

- Armani Collezioni

- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)

- Burberry Prorsum
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- CC Corneliani (half canvassed)
- Coppley (half canvassed)
- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)

- Gucci
- H. Freemann
- Hackett (half canvassed)
- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
- J Crew Ludlow (half canvassed)
- J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)
- Lardini (half canvassed)

- L.B.M. 1911

- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)

- Piombo

- Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)

- Suit Supply (half canvassed)
- Valentino (half canvassed)
 


Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)
 

- Armani Exchange

- Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)

- Dolce & Gabbana

- J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)

- H&M

- Hickey (now fused and made in China)

- Hugo Boss (fused)

- Joseph Abboud

- Lanvin
- Pal Zileri Lab

- Tonello

- Versace Collection

- Z Zegna

- Zara
 

 

Comments:

 

I'm not sure if I'm just being picky but I expect my OTR suits to be constructed just as well as thousand $ bags even if they cost less than USD$500. So I personally inspect every detail and cut loose threads and alter them as I see fit.

 

Excellent: Yes a $6K Brioni plain black jacket is overpriced, and yes the handstitched button holes look uglier than machined ones, but it's downright the most comfortable OTR jacket I've ever worn. Perfect fit and great slim silhouette as if it's been done bespoke. You can get bespoke from a local tailor way cheaper and look as good but we're talking ego here. Now Kiton doesn't have many slim choices OTR but their construction is top notch even if too hyped and very overpriced so I only have a jacket. The good news is I see lots of discounted Kitons year after year as opposed to Brioni.

 

Very Good: Overall I agree with this list with Isaia being my overall favorite brand just because it is easier to find it discounted. Very fine construction and almost perfect fit. I always try to buy whenever I find a slim fitting piece with modern color which is extremely hard to come across.

 

Good: These are good buy under $1000. The top dogs Pal Zileri, Corneliani Trend, and Kei are definitely plenty for sale though the latter is probably because of its trendy casual nature. Canali fits and costs similar to Isaia but construction and attention to detail is slightly lacking being mass produced and all. But if you're a fan of Obama then it's the obvious choice. Off topic but I've been slowly replacing my casual sport jackets with discounted $350 last season Canalis. RLBL is similar to Canali in that they are made in Italy and has all the attention to details with loose buttons etc. Problem is RLBL has a reputation of massively discounted as well and some casual pieces that are made in China. It doesn't bother me though and I continue to buy their slim pieces. Zegna, probably doesn't have to elaborate much as it's awesome but not much slim choices so I have everything from them except suits. Prada is obviously overpriced but if the 2013 model I tried on last month was made by Belvest, it sure looked and felt damn good. Worth $750 discounted? I'd rather get an Isaia. Now speaking of Paul Smith mainline, they don't fit my body well despite having 4 sets in my wardrobe but their level of fabric and tailoring definitely belongs in this category. Also helps that they have the most numbers of inner pockets compared to other brands. If you look around on UK sites you can get mainline PS below $500 so definitely the best buy and entry point to the world of real suits. Corneliani Trend makes me look like wearing a Brioni except the fit isn't as comfortable. All in all, if everything in this list cost the same I'd go for a Corneliani mainline/Trend or Pal Zileri.

 

Satisfactory: IMO these are only worth buying when discounted to $500. Burberry Prorsum is made in Italy but you're just paying for experimental styling with some decent cut and decent construction. I spent quite a bit of time cutting thread ends. Buy if you want that specific accent and 50% off. The same can be said for Gucci which is better than the Burberry but worth getting only at $500. Hugo Boss seems to be getting worse by the year. The last one I owned was about 15 years ago which is still pretty good even today if outdated. New Bosses are overpriced but sometimes discounted massively at their outlets you can find a 100% cashmere jacket at 70% off. Too bad their fit is for body builders or well fed bosses. Armani Collezioni, despite the hatred for the brand image from myself included, I can't help to admit that their suits fit best on my body with a comfort level above most brands at any price. The light summer Collezionis just really nailed it with the fit and style to my body so I have quite a few of these. It doesn't matter if it's fused, 2012-2013 models fit and look great. Always a dilemma whether to get AC (fit) or PS mainline (quality). PS London is still decent and ain't that far off their mainline not to mention very cheap online. CC Corneliani is the gem in this category as the slim fit with acceptable quality but discounted at $250-350. Hard to find the color and size for me (34-36) so I don't have any at the moment.

 

Poor: To be fair a few Zara jackets that have slim cut with 100% wool from Lanificio Top Wool have decent fit and construction which I think are worth their $150 price tag for highschool or college students. Their styling is unfortunately pretty bland. I actually have 1 right now that's new but would like to donate due to full wardrobe. Again nothing wrong with it except style. Does H&M's even has more than 20% wool content? They're selling shirts at $5-7 last time I checked. Pal Zileri Lab has similar super comfortable cut as their mainline but with modern styling which sounds great. The caveat is their somewhat poor construction and downright cheap bottom fabrics. Honestly I'm not sure if it'll survive a year of regular wear, I wonder if it's made in China. Also the same can be said with Versace Collection 2013 selections which I noticed has better fabric but I believe still made in China or some other country outside west europe. I don't know how they can get away selling sport jackets at $100 less than Canali's. Perhaps that's the need to have the medusa head somewhere outside. At $350 discounted I'd still rather get something else. Dolce & Gabbana is priced $1500+ but the quality is pretty bad which is taking style over quality way too far. Half of their jail sentence should be for ripping off their consumers. Lanvin is another one that is super expensive because made in France but has a weird hourglass waist or some unusual fashion forward styling, simply unacceptable stitching, and crappy choices of materials. The French Cavalli of formal fashion. No wonder many are 70% discounted. I understand I paid for style but they could at least add some quality fabric and construction.

 

I'll update this once I get more stuff.


Edited by Riva - 7/29/13 at 4:54pm
post #880 of 1317
Hey Riva,

Your additions aren't in the appropriate categories.

Corneliani mainline is very different from 'Trend'. The Trend line is fused and uses polyester in many pieces. I'd put it in the poor quality category.

Prada goes down one notch because it's now half canvassed. Two well regarded companies make Prada suiting: Belvest and Boglioli. But they aren't made to very high standards (again, half canvassed).

Gucci has 3 tiers of quality: fully canvassed, half canvassed and fused (3 different price points and degrees of quality). Doesn't fit into one category.

Armani collezioni is fused but sometimes has decent fabrics.

Dolce Gabbana is half canvassed and made by Boglioli; should go up higher.


I understand you like the fit of some of the pieces you added onto the list, but Fit alone does not = Quality.

But a welling fitting Zara suit is better than an ill fitting Brioni suit.
post #881 of 1317

I will never buy another RLBL but agree with its grade. I don't like the fact that their mainlines have no freaking belt loops. I don't like the fact that some are sold at ridiculously discounted prices. 

 

On a another note, I went and played around with Armani Collection?(Giorgio?) and I found it amusing that they had a label "FULLY CANVASSED." I would never buy an Armani but it was listed at $2,200, which I found to be way too high.

 

It was interesting to read Riva's take but I disagree with his ranking for the reasons Othertravel has stated. 

post #882 of 1317
Maybe Collezioni does belong somewhere on the list. I own some outlet odd jackets and a suit, and the fabrics were surprisingly nice. Fit is also one of the most faltering on me, especially considering I am bulky in build.

Fused canvases or not, there are some good finds on discount, if you can stay away from the poly blends...
post #883 of 1317
Collezioni has decent fabrics, but at the end of the day it's a diffusion brand that was made by fasci (spelling?) for Armani. I think it's gone inhouse since then, but alot of the stuff is made outside of Italy.

I did see one AC coat that felt canvassed, but the majority I've handled were definitely fused.
post #884 of 1317
Does Valentino Tailoring by Isaia still around? How about Versace Couture by Zegna to pretty high quality?
post #885 of 1317
Excellent [*****]
- Oxxford (Highest Quality)
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli
- Sartoria Castangia
- St Andrew
- La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
- Zegna Couture/Tom Ford

Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

- Battistoni
- D'Avenza
- Isaia
- Sartoria Partenopea
- Oxxford (1220)
- Belvest mainline
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
- RLPL
- Sartorio
- Stile Latino



Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
- Canali mainline
- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
- Cantarelli mainline
- Corneliani mainline
- Dunhill
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Faconnable Tailleur
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
- Pal Zileri mainline
- Paul Smith mainline (fully canvassed)
- Paul Stuart
- Raffaelle Caruso mainline
- RLBL
- Samuelsohn
- J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)


Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)


- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Burberry Prorsum
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- CC Corneliani (half canvassed)
- Coppley (half canvassed)
- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
- Gucci
- H. Freemann
- Hackett (half canvassed)
- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
- J Crew Ludlow (half canvassed)
- J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)
- Lardini (half canvassed)
- L.B.M. 1911
- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- Piombo
- Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)
- Suit Supply (half canvassed)
- Valentino (half canvassed)
- Prada (half canvassed)


Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)

- Armani Exchange
- Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)
- Dolce & Gabbana
- J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)
- H&M
- Hickey (now fused and made in China)
- Hugo Boss (fused)
- Joseph Abboud
- Pal Zileri Lab
- Tonello
- Versace Collection
- Z Zegna
- Zara
- Armani Collezioni (fused)
- Corneliani Trend (fused)


Updated. Corneliani trend and Armani collezioni are not well made.
Edited by kulata - 7/31/13 at 3:02am
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