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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 57

post #841 of 1302
In fairness to Armani, he is a very effective business man. He set the the trend for 10+ years when it comes to suiting. And when you're investing so much money in marketing, the mark up on clothes will be substantial.

I tried on a fully canvassed Armani BL a few days ago and it did have a unique look. The model is called 'Trader' (i.e. as in stock trader/works on wall street). It had very square shoulders and a high buttoning point. It was fully canvassed with nice materials. I just wouldn't pay $5k for it when Zegna Couture or TF is at that price (and Isaia for $3k). And frankly, I don't know how much hand work goes into the canvssed model as compared to Kiton, Zegna Couture, TF, Zegna mainline, etc...).
post #842 of 1302
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

In fairness to Armani, he is a very effective business man. He set the the trend for 10+ years when it comes to suiting. And when you're investing so much money in marketing, the mark up on clothes will be substantial.

I tried on a fully canvassed Armani BL a few days ago and it did have a unique look. The model is called 'Trader' (i.e. as in stock trader/works on wall street). It had very square shoulders and a high buttoning point. It was fully canvassed with nice materials. I just wouldn't pay $5k for it when Zegna Couture or TF is at that price (and Isaia for $3k). And frankly, I don't know how much hand work goes into the canvssed model as compared to Kiton, Zegna Couture, TF, Zegna mainline, etc...).


Same here. I tried on an Armani Black Label suit in Vegas I think at bloomingdales.. fully canvassed, with higher armholes and a lower button stance. Beautiful drape and beautiful fabric. It was worth about 4k.. but I agree other..for a grand extra I can purchase TF with better construction or hand work.

post #843 of 1302
Quote:
Originally Posted by chocsosa View Post


Same here. I tried on an Armani Black Label suit in Vegas I think at bloomingdales.. fully canvassed, with higher armholes and a lower button stance. Beautiful drape and beautiful fabric. It was worth about 4k.. but I agree other..for a grand extra I can purchase TF with better construction or hand work.

A grand extra? Their 3 piece suits with the batwing lapels start at 4200, and their notch lapel 2 piece ones are 3k-ish (3200-3700) last time i checked. Then again it all comes down to what fabric is being used
post #844 of 1302
Gents,

I own about 200 suits & jackets -- I seem to have made it my life's goal to buy at least one suit or jacket from every brand worth trying, at every price point, ranging from cheap fused OTR to the most expensive bespoke suits.

I can't be bothered to rank with stars all the brands I've tested, so I'll just invite thread followers to glance at the in-depth reviews I've written up here -- the only comprehensive one-post review of its kind by a single owner I've seen so far:

http://dirnelli.tumblr.com/search/review
post #845 of 1302
Dirnelli: that was a great read.
post #846 of 1302
Thanks. Years and dollars boiled down to one post. Just for the glory...
post #847 of 1302
Great read. thanks Dirnelli.
post #848 of 1302

thumbs-up.gif

post #849 of 1302

at the bottom of the list there needs to be a differentiation between Z Zegna, Boss, Abboud, etc... and H&M, zara, calvin klein. While the former brands reputation exceeds their quality, there still exists a notable difference between their offerings and typical mall garbage like the latter. Also, Armani Collezioni, particularly the Giorgio and Sartorial Decco lines, are half canvassed, made in Italy, with good fabric and a modern cut. While not worth the retail price, they are not bad suits and probably belong in the Satisfactory group. However, since Armani is a four letter word on this forum we tend to completely discard the line.

post #850 of 1302
wow.gif

good job, dirnelli!
post #851 of 1302
Dirnelli, great job. A lot of effort went into the write up and it is much appreciated. I also like people with a wide range of experience from high end to low end brands like Zara. Shows your openness and love for the hobby.
post #852 of 1302

Well done however I feel you were a tad too negative on Oxxford. Conservative yes, uninteresting no, this just depends on ones bias, continental vs. traditional.

post #853 of 1302
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigtimebuck4 View Post

at the bottom of the list there needs to be a differentiation between Z Zegna, Boss, Abboud, etc... and H&M, zara, calvin klein. While the former brands reputation exceeds their quality, there still exists a notable difference between their offerings and typical mall garbage like the latter. Also, Armani Collezioni, particularly the Giorgio and Sartorial Decco lines, are half canvassed, made in Italy, with good fabric and a modern cut. While not worth the retail price, they are not bad suits and probably belong in the Satisfactory group. However, since Armani is a four letter word on this forum we tend to completely discard the line.

None of those belong next to anything he reviewed - i.e. they're all just different forms of trash to pick through.

You can also find many posts on a lot of those names, but not so many posts on names he took the time to review.

Thanks for taking the time to do that, dirnelli.
post #854 of 1302

Can anyone speak to the appropriate position of the Japanese brand "Ring Jacket" (often seen in The Armoury's photos) in this list?

post #855 of 1302
SeamasterLux can do a first-hand review of Ring Jacket and Liverano RTW. I'll ask him to join the thread.
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