or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 56

post #826 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by chocsosa View Post


but the La Spalla line in SS is full canvas with some hand work..so I would say about the same at the highest level and in the good category..

Ah, didn't know that. I haven't seen or handled one of those. The normal SS suits are a definitely a notch below the Benjamin suits quality-wise. I do prefer the cuts of most of the SS suits though, dumbass working cuffs aside.
post #827 of 1318
Gentlemen, I am finding this all wonderfully interesting and useful and the attempt at defining a list based on, as much as possible, objective criteria is a noble one.
However, it isn't always clear to me what the objective of some of these comments is. I don't mean the following nearly as moralizing as I fear it may come across, but aren't we from time to time a little bit like little kids arguing over who is the best soccerplayer/baseballplayer/actor (insert any object or occupation the determining of which supercedes qualitative assessment). Not to say that kiton isn't better than h&m or brioni than hugo boss. Indeed certainly there are several factors,many of which have been elucidated marvellously by some of you ( and from whom I have learned a great deal over the last months) that are objective in nature but can we agree as a basis for this thread that:
a): essentially (again, as several people have pointed out) a lot comes down to preference...taste can't be argued
b): said preference to some degree comes down to how well a certain line fits the body type(i slip into an isaia like it was tailormade for me so obviously i rate them favorably,same with corneliani but most likely my opinion would change if one day one of them altered the cut of their line and it no longer fit me as well OTR)
c): as other threads have aptly proved the actual amount of hand work is not easy to discern and a lot comes down it seems to reputation. We all "know" that zegna is overpriced, cesare attolini and oxxford can do no wrong and armani is crap, but with all sincere respect, how many of us have tried on never mind owned and regularly worn the 75 different makes on the list? (Since the fabric used enormously influences the experience/feel /wear and drape of a suit the number is in fact much higher, isn't it? Unless we completely discard from the discussion how a suit wears, which surely would severely limit the purpose of the whole thing:)
Personally I disagree with a number of things on the list but I would have to admit that I simply haven't tried enough of them on or worn them enough to form an educated opinion on how to compare
What I am trying to say is that I do appreciate the thread and a lot of the discussion is enlightening, but could we please refrain from absolutes and keep the exchange as exactly that, a mutual search for knowledge that will equip all of us for the jungle that is suit-buying:)

P.S. afterthought: has anyone tried on Kilgour OTR? I handled one very briefly and must say that it was very impressive from what I could tell in terms of fabric and cut if very pricey.
post #828 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by wam1756 View Post
What I am trying to say is that I do appreciate the thread and a lot of the discussion is enlightening, but could we please refrain from absolutes and keep the exchange as exactly that, a mutual search for knowledge that will equip all of us for the jungle that is suit-buying:)

Thank you.

post #829 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by wam1756 View Post

I don't mean the following nearly as moralizing as I fear it may come across, but aren't we from time to time a little bit like little kids arguing over who is the best soccerplayer/baseballplayer/actor (insert any object or occupation the determining of which supercedes qualitative assessment). Not to say that kiton isn't better than h&m or brioni than hugo boss. Indeed certainly there are several factors,many of which have been elucidated marvellously by some of you ( and from whom I have learned a great deal over the last months) that are objective in nature but can we agree as a basis for this thread that:
...
but with all sincere respect, how many of us have tried on never mind owned and regularly worn the 75 different makes on the list?

Oh hai, you must be new to teh intarwebz smack.gif

Just kidding. In all seriousness though, the point is to try to combine the minds of those who have tried some of these and compare them only on construction quality, which is as objective a measurement as you can have. Certainly there are huge preferences that come into play--but no one is trying to say that you should buy this suit vs that suit, or even that kiton is better than oxxford because it has 100 more hand stitches or whatever. The point is to make order-of-magnitude assessments of quality to serve as a hand guide. What you do with that is up to you.
post #830 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by dovsr18 View Post

Should Lanvin be in here somewhere?
At least good, maybe very good I would think.

If i remember correctly some are by Canali and Caruso. And ive seen 1 tuxedo with Zegna makers tags. Other than that not quite sure who makes their suits on a regular basis
post #831 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by wam1756 View Post


P.S. afterthought: has anyone tried on Kilgour OTR? I handled one very briefly and must say that it was very impressive from what I could tell in terms of fabric and cut if very pricey.

From what ive handled its pretty good. Not quite sure where to rate it maybe under good? Forgot to check for canvassing but if i remember correctly it was part of their made in shanghai collection along with their entry level MTM and bespoke. Both of the latter have been discontinued in an attempt to move back to their regular bespoke work
post #832 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by aravenel View Post

Oh hai, you must be new to teh intarwebz smack.gif

Just kidding. In all seriousness though, the point is to try to combine the minds of those who have tried some of these and compare them only on construction quality, which is as objective a measurement as you can have. Certainly there are huge preferences that come into play--but no one is trying to say that you should buy this suit vs that suit, or even that kiton is better than oxxford because it has 100 more hand stitches or whatever. The point is to make order-of-magnitude assessments of quality to serve as a hand guide. What you do with that is up to you.


^^ this. But he does have a point in that a majority of the people ranking brands have probably never handled most of these brands and are just going off what other people are saying. Armani and boss do get alot of hate though and the former might at one point have been half canvassed or fused but lately the ones ive seen have been full canvassed plus their fatto a mano line should at least be in the very good category but will never be put up there simply because it says "Armani" on the label
post #833 of 1318

Where is this "list" of which you all speak?

post #834 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post

Excellent [*****]
- Oxxford (Highest Quality)
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli
- Sartoria Castangia
- St Andrew
- La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
- Zegna Couture/Tom Ford

Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

- D'Avenza
- Isaia
- Sartoria Partenopea
- Oxxford (1220)
- Belvest mainline
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
- RLPL
- Sartorio
- Stile Latino



Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
- Canali mainline
- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
- Cantarelli mainline
- Corneliani
- Dunhill
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Faconnable Tailleur
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
- Pal Zileri mainline
- Paul Smith Mainline (fully canvassed)
- Paul Stuart
- Raffaelle Caruso mainline
- RLBL
- Samuelsohn
- J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)


Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- CC Cornelaini (half canvassed)
- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
- H. Freemann
- Hackett (half canvassed)
- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
- J Crew Ludlow (half canvassed)
-J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)
- Lardini (half canvassed)
- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)
- Suit Supply (half canvassed)
- Valentino (half canvassed)
- L.B.M. 1911
- Piombo



Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)

- J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)
- Hugo Boss (fused)
- hickey (now fused and made in China)
- Joseph Abboud
- Zara
- H&M
- Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)
- Z Zegna
- Tonello

 

Where does Indochino fall? Same as Suit supply?

post #835 of 1318
The Indochino I have seen are pretty poor, I'd put them in the Mediocre to Poor category. Someone more knowledgeable than me may want to weigh in though.
post #836 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by aravenel View Post

The Indochino I have seen are pretty poor, I'd put them in the Mediocre to Poor category. Someone more knowledgeable than me may want to weigh in though.

This is a ready to wear list and indochino is a mtm service.
post #837 of 1318

What about Austin Reed?

post #838 of 1318

i know i will get laughed out of the thread, but considering how prolific they are, shouldn't Jos. A. Banks be on the list (e.g., Signature)? personally i have had much better experience with these than some of the others on the [*] category.  

post #839 of 1318
I should fix the Armani listing. GA black label has 2 lines; 1 is fused the other is canvassed. The canvassed one has basting all over the suit.
post #840 of 1318
It's funny - before I started reading on this site a few months ago I was under the impression (as most people are) that Armani was the very pinnacle of high end suiting. Similar to Rolex in the world of watches, which enjoys the same status symbol cachet and is similarly reviled (actually Rolex is regarded as quality but overpriced, as opposed to Armani). The visceral dismissal on here of such brands has to be at least in part reactionary - perhaps a little elitism and contempt for nouveau riche labels, perhaps a little overcompensation for our own embarrassing past fashion misconceptions. The dismissiveness of black shoes (and loafers of all colors), I suspect, reminds many of us of our embarrassing footwear faux pas - tattered black rubber soled loafers is sort of the pinnacle of bad dressing.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)