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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 54

post #796 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff13007 View Post


not necessarily. For a very general view yes you are correct but there are instances where this is not the case. For example both TF and Brioni have 32 inch trousers for their 38 (48Reu) jackets but TF is much slimmer fitting. Although im not quite sure that the "drop" refers to the difference between jacket and trouser, it might refer to the jacket chest size vs jacket waist. Even within the same brand for example Brioni, i barely have to take the waist in on some models but have to quite a bit on others. Qunirile vs Nomentano comes to mind for this case even though both are 38r jackets with 32 pants

Of course you are right that "drop" alone is just a general guideline and there are many exceptions. But "drop" is definitely the difference between the jacket chest and trouser waist, not between jacket chest and jacket waist. The difference between jacket chest and jacket waist is a smaller number.

post #797 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by redboat View Post

Can you comment further on why you like the Pal Zileri and Samuelsohn more than the Canali? I own an unstructured Pal Zileri wool sport coat (Green Label) that I like a lot, and I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on a cotton/linen unstructured Canali jacket... My main concern is that the Canali's I've tried on in the past were not slim cut enough for me (I'm 5'10" and 150 lb), but this jacket appears to be in a more modern cut. Thanks!

Regarding Zileri Sartoriale, it should be noted that there are currently three (AFAIK) Sartoriale lines. The traditional 'yellow' one, plus the more recent :  unstructured 'green' and a 'blue' one which seems like 'yellow" lite. The quality& price is yellow>blue>green

 

I own both yellow and green, and the green is definitely a step down (made in hungary, etc) regardless of the 'deconstructed' factor

 

PS:I think zileri is lowering its quality generally speaking. First they got rid of their sartoriale shoes that used to be like canali top shoes (top range Campanile- which is surprisingly good ), and now all these stuff about three sartoriale lines

post #798 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff13007 View Post


not necessarily. For a very general view yes you are correct but there are instances where this is not the case. For example both TF and Brioni have 32 inch trousers for their 38 (48Reu) jackets but TF is much slimmer fitting. Although im not quite sure that the "drop" refers to the difference between jacket and trouser, it might refer to the jacket chest size vs jacket waist. Even within the same brand for example Brioni, i barely have to take the waist in on some models but have to quite a bit on others. Qunirile vs Nomentano comes to mind for this case even though both are 38r jackets with 32 pants

 

This. 

 

Most 'drop 8' jackets have a bit more cut in the waist.  But OTR, most will have drop 6-6.5 trousers.  Some younger-targeted brands (ZZegna, ETRO) where 'drop 8' means a 40 jacket comes with 32 pants.  IMO, most suits come with trousers 6-7 inches away from the jacket.

post #799 of 1317
Excellent [*****]
- Oxxford (Highest Quality)
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli
- Sartoria Castangia
- St Andrew
- La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
- Zegna Couture/Tom Ford

Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

- D'Avenza
- Isaia
- Sartoria Partenopea
- Oxxford (1220)
- Belvest mainline
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
- RLPL
- Sartorio
- Stile Latino



Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
- Canali mainline
- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
- Cantarelli mainline
- Corneliani
- Dunhill
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Faconnable Tailleur
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
- Pal Zileri mainline
- Paul Smith Mainline (fully canvassed)
- Paul Stuart
- Raffaelle Caruso mainline
- RLBL
- Samuelsohn
- J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)


Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- CC Cornelaini (half canvassed)
- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
- H. Freemann
- Hackett (half canvassed)
- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
- J Crew Ludlow (half canvassed)
-J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)
- Lardini (half canvassed)
- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)
- Suit Supply (half canvassed)
- Valentino (half canvassed)
- L.B.M. 1911
- Piombo



Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)

- J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)
- Hugo Boss (fused)
- hickey (now fused and made in China)
- Joseph Abboud
- Zara
- H&M
- Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)
- Z Zegna
- Tonello
Edited by kulata - 5/5/13 at 9:56am
post #800 of 1317

I have no experience of Oxxford, but when I look at this list it seems odd that the US being a place that couldn't put a brand of shoes, shirts or trousers on the top categories appears so high suit-wise

 

Are you sure there isn't a nationalistic bias in this list?

post #801 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by twinpeaks View Post

I have no experience of Oxxford, but when I look at this list it seems odd that the US being a place that couldn't put a brand of shoes, shirts or trousers on the top categories appears so high suit-wise

Are you sure there isn't a nationalistic bias in this list?

What are you talking about? Oxxford is the only American-made suit out of 23 brands in the top two categories. How is that a nationalistic bias?
post #802 of 1317

I mean, why is it there so high out of so many non-US brands.

The whole thing is Italian and then you have Oxxford. Aren't there other non italian countries with at least one great brand?

post #803 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by twinpeaks View Post

I mean, why is it there so high out of so many non-US brands.
The whole thing is Italian and then you have Oxxford. Aren't there other non italian countries with at least one great brand?

Tom Ford is American.
post #804 of 1317

stile latino & sartorio are good or very good?

post #805 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by twinpeaks View Post

I have no experience of Oxxford, but when I look at this list it seems odd that the US being a place that couldn't put a brand of shoes, shirts or trousers on the top categories appears so high suit-wise

Are you sure there isn't a nationalistic bias in this list?

Its really no surprise actually. Brioni was the first brand to really have a factory system for the "hand made" process so you can assume other italian makes would follow. The "continental cut" which most RTW is based on was also invented by the Italians and more specifically Brioni. Take note though that this is a RTW list if we were to include bespoke brands there would be alot more British houses up there as well as american
post #806 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by JTA View Post

Tom Ford is American.

Yeah but its essentially Zegna/Zegna couture so it can fall under the Italian section as well
post #807 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by coloRLOw View Post

stile latino & sartorio are good or very good?

Ive never handle either in the flesh so i cant comment. My memory is a bit hazy on this but i think Stile Latino was originally owned by Kiton then it was bought over by Attolini and the quality went up a bit after
post #808 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by twinpeaks View Post

I have no experience of Oxxford, but when I look at this list it seems odd that the US being a place that couldn't put a brand of shoes, shirts or trousers on the top categories appears so high suit-wise

Are you sure there isn't a nationalistic bias in this list?

Funny you mentioned that, for a time Oxxford's shirts were made by Kiton, and their shoes until today or at least 3 years ago when i was last there were made by C&J
post #809 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by twinpeaks View Post

I have no experience of Oxxford, but when I look at this list it seems odd that the US being a place that couldn't put a brand of shoes, shirts or trousers on the top categories appears so high suit-wise

Are you sure there isn't a nationalistic bias in this list?

Are you being intentionally ironic, talking of nationalistic bias while stating that a US manufacturer couldn't be able of producing a suit in the top levels of quality? sarcasm.gif
post #810 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by twinpeaks View Post

I have no experience of Oxxford, but when I look at this list it seems odd that the US being a place that couldn't put a brand of shoes, shirts or trousers on the top categories appears so high suit-wise

Are you sure there isn't a nationalistic bias in this list?

Alden shoes are American and they are extremely well made.
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